Your videos of the M119 teardown is the only one I've located on RU-vid. So far, I think you are doing a good job explaining what you are doing and what you intend to accomplish. Thanks for the effort....
Thank you! I've been trying to be as detailed as possible without making the videos 3 hours each haha. I will continue to include as much information as I can when I reassemble it.
@@FriendlyMBTech I can tell you that some folks on Benzworld are following your efforts on the M119 and have commented so far that they like what you are doing but wish you would go slower. One poster stated that your teardown of the M119 is the only one on RU-vid he has ever found. I echo that.
@@leeknight6479 I can definitely go into more detail when I reassemble it. More parts will be ordered on Monday so I'll get started on more videos this week. I'll try to include as much of the process as possible including specs and measurements where applicable. Thank you very much for the input!
I know there's an endless debate between whether the m113 V8 was better than the m119. To me, the m113 is more solid with basic reliability, but the m119 is SOOO much more robust and old school Mercedes, in the best way. Just the markings, tooling of each part, and the quality of each random (non-plastic) piece shows it.
I really appreciate what you're doing. If you have time, kind Sir, could you give a list of specialty tools used and recommended specialty tools. Who's your best tool manufacturer?
You're very welcome. Off the top of my head, you'll need a long 1/2" breaker bar, a 1/2" torque wrench, a T torx set(not E), 1/2" impact, engine stand, small relatively strong magnet, metric tap and die set, 27mm socket, seal remover, silicone gun, engine hoist, pry bar set. That's all I can think of right now. There's not really any specific tool manufacturers that I go with. Just don't get cheap stuff. Cheap stuff will break.
Love the video. Before I comment I want to ask you this. I just pulled the engine from my 560SL (see my after the pull video) to change rear cover plate & seal & the pan gasket. I’m wondering what else should I do? It has 139,000. I’ve done cam gears, upper guides & chain, but nothing else. I might see more after I take the pan off. I would like to hear your thoughts. Now my comment. I almost connected the engine stand to the pan just like you did, but I caught it before I mounted it. What I did was modify the stand brackets so I grab the block only & in doing so the engine is much better balanced on the stand.
I would recommend replacing anything or resealing anything that you'd save a lot of time later by doing now with the engine out and already taken partially apart. That how I decided to take mine apart as far as I did. It will take more time now and cost more now, but if it has to be done later, will end up saving time and money.
Hi, Neighborhood guy! I have a 92 500sl and it leaks oil took it into the shop they told me rear oil pan and they replaced the gasket....IT STILL LEAKS. Where do these usually leak from. It is not the valve cover gaskets.
The upper oil pan gasket leaks also. The rear main seal or plate can leak. That's about it for the rear of the engine unless the head gaskets are leaking.
@@FriendlyMBTech Thanks...I was jumping up and down when they told me lower pan gasket. Upper BIG BUCKS...Rear main/plate BIG BUCKS. If that is the case which it may be let the mo fro leak :)
If you aren't pulling the motor, I'd try to get the head up and out with the exhaust manifold on still. The back bolts have very little clearance. I took a look at the 500E I'm working on right now and that's what I would try on that.
Я постараюсь ответить как можно лучше, хотя я использую переводчик, и это не имеет особого смысла. Блок в хорошем состоянии и не требует замены. Я не заметил износа, который заставил бы меня заменить его. Блок тоже прямой. Мне действительно нужно заменить верхний масляный поддон с масляным поддоном от старого двигателя. Масляный поддон на этом двигателе не поместится в автомобиле. Прошу прощения, если не ответил на ваш вопрос. Если нет, ответьте, и я попробую еще раз.
@@FriendlyMBTech я вас понял, просто у меня такой же мотор, задиры в 1 и 5 цилиндрах, но у нас проблема найти блок в хорошем состоянии, а если гильзовать его под чугун, какие поршни туда можно засунуть, кроме оригинала?
@@kristiansytnik7702 Теперь я понимаю. Если вы воспроизводите двигатель с железом в точности таким, какой он есть, то оригинальные поршни будут лучше и проще всего, потому что вы знаете, что они подходят. Можно было бы найти другие поршни, но вам придется искать по размеру, а не по двигателю. Это двигатель от 400SE, а не от 400E. Это был случай, сделанный мной, и поэтому я должен поменять детали. Вы пробовали искать двигатель от другой машины? Подойдут также двигатели от моделей SE и SL. Некоторые потребуют модификации.
@@FriendlyMBTech у меня ситуация следующая, двигатель 119, но он s500. Размер поршней редкий и на сколько я знаю блок точить нельзя, только гильзовать, а под оригинал будет все очень дорого стоить, вот поэтому и задача восстановить свой блок, но с поршнями от чего то другого, по большей части проблема в размере пальца шатуна
There are several things that could cause that. It could be warpage of the cylinder head, stretched head bolts, stripped head bolts, or incorrect head gasket(which I ran into) just to name a few. Is it on just one cylinder? Have you checked compression or performed a cylinder leak down test?
@@FriendlyMBTech thanks for replying so fast lol .its leaking on both side and my big mistake was i should have gotten new bolts and my engine is: M119.985 97 mercedes benz Im gonna have to remove the heads again and i will make sure i get the mercedes brand head gasket ,the ones i used was victor reinz
Forgot to mention that I did get the heads resurfaced when i removed them and thank you so much for your videos on m119 we dont have many videos on that on youtube
@@tinasissi there is a measurement for the head bolts to check if they need to be replaced. The bolts I took out of the junk yard engine had about 100k miles on them and were within specifications but I replaced them anyway. If your head bolts are stretched or on the long end of the specification range mixed with having the heads resurfaced, that could lead to insufficient torque for sure. I'd check the bolt measurements for sure.
