25:15 Pro tip: Adding solder is totally necessary to minimize donor tantalum cap damage (you did that right). BUT ALSO: Use a big tip on your soldering iron at 450C AND hot air. Heat with hot air while holding the soldering iron on the ground side of the part. The solder will melt much quicker then you can push the part off the pads using the soldering iron. Give it a try on a junk board... you'll be amazed how easy it is to get those large tantalum caps off.
For some reason this board has a mix of Panasonic SP-Cap (C721B and C721A) and Kemet KO-CAP (C7212 and C7210). Panasonic SP-Cap are aluminum while Kemet KO-CAP are tantalum. Tantalum generally have higher density than aluminum and can be cheaper, while aluminum have lower ESR than tantalum and ripple current can be higher, but of course many different models with a different compromise on specs and price can be found. Here it's just bulk decoupling on the main power rail so it doesn't make a lot of difference, if it was on CPU VCore itself it would matter much more. However aluminum polymer caps are still more robust than tantalum, and tantalum don't like heat at all, so whenever possible I'd avoid hot air around tantalum capacitors, and I'd use an aluminum polymer as a replacement. A Kemet KO-CAP failed and not a Panasonic SP-Cap which is not surprising. The donor replacement is a Panasonic POSCAP, which is a tantalum as well. I don't know how Panasonic POSCAP and Kemet KO-CAP compare in terms of reliability, but they are almost certainly inferior to Panasonic SP-CAP.
Yea I noticed that there was an odd mix of caps on the board. If they're a mix of Allu caps and Tant caps, maybe the idea is to have both for total capacity and fast response as well?
@@Adamant_IT I think it's more likely that they are alternative parts depending on supply, and somehow that pick and place had two different reels fitted. Would have to see other boards of the same model to know if it's always the same.
I don’t know WTF just happened but this video started playing while I was working on my A2159 and I just went with it. Did I just discover what ASMR is for men in their 40s? Loved this video! Thanks for the good company!
I really enjoy watching your videos, I'm learning a lot. I see you struggling to remove caps, I always use the 2 iron method, it's a lot quicker and kinder to the component also you don't get hot air blowing and moving other components off the board.
Yea I used the two-iron method in a recent video, and while editing this one I was thinking "man I should've used two irons..." Hot air stations spoil us, and sometimes we forget the basic techniques.
Great videos as always. i have been learning alot as i would say you are one of the most explicit technician i have followed on youtube ever. What microscope and Camera setup will you recommend for a starter please
👌 Awesome fix sir you always work step by step process and i also agree if you work on anything proper understanding how can work the circuit 👍 this will save time and energy ⚡
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair tutorial video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
Very well done, an advanced repair job, clearly analysed and repaired! Just happen to have a same macbook with same symptoms, let's see what the cause is here;
Those aren't lead fumes, regardless. It is other impurities, usually just the flux. Depending on the flux the only way to know it is really unhealthy or not is if there are hazard notes on whatever materials might be in it. You aren't boiling lead, which is way way over its melting point, so no worries about lead fumes. The major hazard is burning yourself.
Yea flux is really nasty stuff, and a lot of solder - or at least the old stuff I use - has a flux core, so that's the main hazard there. Unleaded solder is more about environmental protection once devices become waste, rather than the manufacturing. Lead poisoning accumulates in wildlife.
Technically correct, while you're well below the boiling point of lead, what can happen is that lead particulate is projected within the flux fumes / splutter and subsequently ingested/inhaled.
I think a bit of lead is probably good for you! Ever since we've got rid of lead from petrol, the worlds gone insane! 😂 Back in the days of 4star leaded, people didn't think that women could have penises! 😮 MAKE LEAD GREAT AGAIN!!
Yea that was the cracking I was hearing. The donor removal section was actually great testing for how rough you can be with these caps. First one failed and was giving bad readings (the Vloss reading was high when I tested it, but I didn't notice while recording) but the second one was OK because it had a lot of background heat put into it before I focused on it.
I edited this video like, two weeks ago and it's been in the pipeline, so as far as I'm concerned, Paul copied me in his latest video. He was like "oh so he's bored of MLCCs and is replacing tantalums now? well two can play that game..." He has access to my early releases, he knew what he was doing 😂
@@Adamant_IT See, now this is more like what my viewers were wanting when I put out my exploding tantrum cap video yesterday. They want a bit more of a ride, a bit more time, rather than my wham-bamn-thankyou-goodbye.
I would say you never know where your current accumulation of somatic mutations are and will appear in the future, plus we don't really understand the mechanism of inhaling all of these compounds so therefore invest in the extractor sooner rather than later. Great vid as always.
Sometimes it's just not possible, especially with those big main rails caps (and some of them have a inner/middle GND pad which means you'd basically destroy the board trying to get them off with soldering irons).
@@pldaniels Wow I can't believe it! a reply from one of the giants of this field. The big gun in person. Thanks for the explanation. So mix it with leaded solder or low melt solder speeds up the desoldering process Greetings from the Algerian desert.
Missing screws can indicate warranty repair in the past. Had a Dell with missing screws & the motherboard model did not match the laptop's model. Close but not identical. USB-C power delivery was a bad idea & is nothing but trouble.
Graham, What does Amtech flux smell like? I might be able to fulfil your wish to have a candle that smells like it! I've heard it smells very much like pine?
It won't really help much because it doesn't wick under the pads for these large caps, at least not until you're almost at the melting point of the lead free. Where using leaded solder does help at least though is it can give you a more conformal medium in which to *transfer* heat to the join, that does help.
For information, the cover is supposed to slide in direction of the screen when you put it back. The clips you have on the top of the back cover are suposed to slide into the topcase then the clips on center and side of the cover clip in. Final note: never use a metalic piece to remove the cover of a mac.
Is that boardview software that you use called FlexBV? Also, where do you get the circuit board schematics. Could you do a video on acquiring the data base and use of the software? I searched your videos using Flex as a search term and found nothing. Thanks,.
Most of the caps I replace are Multi-Layer Ceramic Capacitors (the brown ones) which, being ceramic, can fracture with flexing and thermal cycles, then you get voltage break-down between the layers and that turns into a runaway short. This was a Poly-Tantalum, which is a bit more complicated, but I think it's when the electrolyte paste (the polymer) is compromised by a fracture in the casing, or just fatigue (it's in a high-heat area) and allows the tantalum anode wire in the centre of the cap to touch the cathode outer section, creating a short.
I get mine here: cnlselectronics.co.uk/soldering/ Lots of arguments over Amtech Direct vs Inventec that claims to be 'original' amtech, both companies make high quality flux, so it doesn't really matter. Amtech Direct V3 is easier to get in the UK because it passes REACH hazardous materials certification.
Yea this is the Infiray P2 Pro, I review it a while back, although I think this is one of the first times it's been seen in anger. It's a good cam, reliable and affordable. I prefer it to my Flir One, which had an internal batt that needed to be charged. The hand-held cameras are a bit faster to pick up and use though, rather than these 'plug into a smart phone' ones.
It can give hints as to where a short might be, and what is reacting to the short. In LFC#370 at 03:50, we saw an example of a PSU hitting overcurrent protection, causing very rapid oscillation on the power meter. We might also have seen a slower, more methodical on/off every few seconds showing the PD controller chip switching on, sensing a fault, and switching off again. In this instance though, the controller chip didn't even attempt to switch on. The behaviour probably varies on what brand chip there is, with more expensive ones having more safety features built-in. The Minisforum PC in video 370 wasn't even proper Power Delivery, which is why it had such an uncontrolled failure mode.
Yea, cycling is not always a short, but also it tells us that there's something switching on and off repeatedly, and that's something we can look for that might lead us to the fault.
" Think I'll go for the injection. " That's what my heroin addicted girlfriend says all the time. On a serious note, what do you do besides fix computers for fancy tickling?
Just a word of warning: If the machine is charging just fine on 20 volts there can still be problems with the USB-C ports 😳 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-joHtj4ewkHY.html
Why is it a resistor or a diode or cap, etc is called a guy? This guy is going to this guy and this is a big boy, etc. It just seems it’s just some big guy who’s carrying a lot of guys and maybe some big boys as well! It’s just so annoying but otherwise a great content creator
