That was very helpful. I built a machinists level a while back, I bought a very sensitive vial which I fixed into a tube using Plaster of Paris. never been 100% sure how well I calibrated it, you've taught me a sure way to check and adjust it. Cheers!
This is fascinating! I didn't realize when I bought this Starrett level that I had to calibrate it and I had no idea how. Thanks for showing me! This method is based on something I never realized before: All planar surfaces contain a set of parallel lines that are perfectly level with the ground. I never noticed that before. Very interesting! Great video.
Hi Steve I like your video. I bought a used 97-8 Starrett Level EDP No.50435 and I notice the bubble is so wide when level I can't see the ends of the bubble. Is that normal or defective? Is is possible to take some of the fluid out or is that a bad idea ? Any advise is appreciated. Thanks in Advance.
The vile needs to be replaced. There are several videos on YT about how to do it. They are available and not too difficult. Keith Rucker of Vintage Machinery has a video on it, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_fs-AVB3fDg.html Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you Chris, so far this has been one of my better received videos for awhile. I actually re-shot some of it and had another RU-vid Machinist preview it for me before I published it. I am looking forward to seeing some of your work again.
Before you moved the camera I had Zero confidence in your calibration procedure, what you were saying was not matching what I was seeing. however I believe after the move, Great job, I have that very same level that I inherited from my the previous owner of my lathe and I have had zero confidence in, but will try your procedure and hopefully to give me some faith in it.🤞
Hi Steve, you beat me to the gun. I've just finished moving and re-leveling my lathe with a precision machine level a few weeks ago and did a quick 101 on how to adjust and calibrate the level when the surface your sitting on isn't level. This is especially true in the field when setting up precision production equipment and you don't have a level reference to work from. As long as the bubble sits somewhere in the viewing area its OK to start adjusting. If the bubble isn't on a line use a fine liner pen to mark the edge of the bubble, lift and rotate to see if the edge of the bubble is on your Fine Liner mark. If not, adjust and re-mark with the fine liner pen. Repeat marking, rotating and adjusting until the bubble sits on the edge of the line each time the level is rotated. If when you put the level on a surface and the bubble is out of view use shim on the tip of the levels end until its in view. Mark and rotate as described making sure the shim is at the same point each time you rotate it. As I mentioned, the surface does not have to be level to calibrate and adjust. One other important thing is to re-check by rotating twice after the level sits for a period of time (after a lunch break) on the surface you are trying to level. The bubble will always grow and shrink even over a short period of time due to changes in temperature and air pressure. Cam
The next video that I am doing is setting up the lathe. I don't mark the bubble, but that is a good idea. However I do use the shims under the end of the level to determine what I use to shim the lathe. I have actually had a few comments about the level surface, which mine was not. I am considering doing an addendum to the video showing in more detail how to find the level spot on the non level surface. Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@sharkrivermachine Thanks for the reply Steve, the Fine Liner works well. Each time you re-adjust you simply wipe the mark off with your finger and mark the bubble edge again and repeat until the bubble sits on the same edge of the line each time it is rotated, then it lock up. Perfectly calibrated even though its not a level surface your working on. Cam
@@sharkrivermachine thank you Mr. Lang for producing this video and Mr. Cam for the reply/comment with little helpful details. Love you both for sharing techniques in an art that is dying with youngsters trying out for easier jobs where thinking isn’t a requirement. Both of you had such great tips! The shimming part was brilliant since you use the same shimming on the top of the lathe that you will use under it! So simple, yet so brilliant! I just bought a small lathe a few months back and TODAY I’ve bought my 98-12 and came back to this video to refresh the calibration process for when my level comes in. I was wondering how you guys were sure the surface was level to begin with but you both clarified that it doesn’t need to be dead on as you just make sure the bubble is consistent on both directions! I bought it off of eBay and anxious to make sure it’s in good shape. Thank you very much!
Thank you for your video. I appreciate how you walk through everything slowly. I just picked up a precision level and I was curious how to use it or calibrate it. Do you know if the starrett precision levels come calibrated from the factory? Also what is the rotating sheath on that starrett 98 used for mine has the same one as yours.
The precision levels need to be checked and or calibrated each time that they are used. They change with temperature and just being handled. The rotating sheath is just for protection against breakage when in storage. Make sure to watch the second video on calibrating the level, I give some clarification on the procedure. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi Steve, I am from the Netherlands. The precision spirit level you are showing has an accuracy of 0.005 inches / 1 feet. Do you know how much this is in millimeters? Greetings Jan
The area that i am in is not too bad but that can change in an instant if you let your guard down. My mom is in a nursing home that is infected. She has a private room and is confined to bed so she does not interact with the other residents. It is frustrating that I have not been able to visit her since mid March. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I know my mom is sheltering at home but I'm staying away so I don't put her at risk. Getting ready to make a copy of your grinding wheel balancer. Are you happy with the design or would you make any changes if you were to do it again
That is the point of this exercise. The surface does not have to be level as long as you keep swapping the level end for end and keep the bubble offset equal. The next video explains that process in a little more detail.
@@sharkrivermachine It doesn't have to be PERFECTLY level, but it has to be quite close. You cannot calibrate your level on a flat surface that is, lets say, 10 degrees off level. This isn't obvious because surely machinists do this calibration typically on a big old granite reference surface that is, well, VERY close to perfectly level to begin with? I can and do adjust the extemely sensitive bubble on my survey instruments in exactly the same manner, and the procedure doesn't work unless the survey instrument is close enough to perfectly level so that the adjustment mechanism doesn't "run out of range" (usually, you run out of threads, and can't turn the adjustment nuts or thingies any further). The answer to Mikes question is: You level the surface under the "level" (which surface MUST be flat) with a cruder level. This makes it "level enough" so that the level you are calibrating can be calibrated. Then you calibrate the level in exactly the way explained in the video, and use that (if needed) to fine tune the leveling of the surface plate. As I think of it, I realize that if anybody tries this on a flat surface that isn't level, it will in most cases be instantly obvious that the procedure can't be done. You put it on your unlevel surface, and you can't get the bubble to do anything but hide in a corner. All that being said, I want to add that I REALLY appreciate videos like this, and I have learned a lot about machining, and particularly about how machinists measure stuff, that complements and meshes well with my survey oriented measuring knowledge.
@@johnwetzel5248 You are right about that the level should be reasonably close and in a second visit video to the subject I go into more detail about that.
@@sharkrivermachine Being the son of a builder I was taught at a young age how and why you should reverse a level to check it. When I ordered a expensive level which has magnets in for steel work i checked it on the shop counter top. It was out so gave it back and they got me one that was spot on..It caused a ruck but the guy had to get the manager out because he didn't under stand lol ww2 split rims where you can not get the tires so I banded the rim to take a larger ID tire. Tube tires and a tube gator ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UfwiaxVVrXU.html Hay baler auger shaft weld and re turn ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bxw5Z_vcM4o.html EN24T making cutter blades, heat treat and temper edge to blue ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AUiFNZ9WU0k.html
What perfect timing! I just ordered a 98-6 last week to finish my Atlas 10F project and it should be arriving tomorrow. My dilemma is that I don't own a surface plate, so I'm going to try and find the most true and flatest surface that I have around to calibrate it or I'm hoping i can find a machined turbine flange/part at my job. Do you think that would work in calibrating it? Keep these videos coming!
I was going to address the issue of not having a surface plate. Any good clean flat surface will do. I used to use a piece of granite tile and before that a piece of well supported glass. You could also use the table of another piece of machinery such as a mill or even a table saw. I also have a piece of cutting board material in the shop that I use when I want a non-critical flat surface to work on. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I just purchased a 12" Starrett Precision level. Much more accurate than this 4" unit. When I had my automotive machine shop I could set up a cylinder head to resurface within .005" with a good quality carpenters level. from there I would zero it in with a dial indicator.
