I'm constantly amazed by your seemingly limitless energy. You take care of your family and house. You have a job. You volunteer at a museum. You're building a new shop. You film, edit, and post videos. I am in awe.
Thank you for making this kind of video. I'm pretty well versed in machine shop practices and tools , but I don't do it every day and sometimes I really appreciate a little refresher in the basic stuff just to feel confident in what I do.
Hello Keith, Nice tutorial how to use an depth micrometer and maybe when I go to shop for new tools I will also look for a good micrometer. But the first thing I really need to buy is a tapping set. So many times screws didn't fit right because of bad threads and than a tapping set is ideal. Looking forward to the next one and thanks for the video ! Many greetings from Roel.
Always interesting content. Appreciate when you explain things that some of us might not know. Can hardly wait for next part in your lathe restoration project.
thank you, keith, for this very good demo -- and especially for the part with the rod calibration therein. i venture to say that many young and not-so will definitely benefit from it! thank you for the video, -toly
great video Keith, but also mechanics use this not just as a measuring device, but also in adjusting engine parts, ie measuring valve lift, to set adjusters, or to check pulley marks of valve timing, aka to 'set' top dead centre by this tool touching the pin, piston, etc, this is by using the tool to create a known reference dimention to set the system, rather than common usage, to determine an unknown dimension.
Thanks for the informative video, Keith. Will this be a new series? If so, you will probably get many requests for episodes. Thanks again for taking the time to do this. Joe
I have done a few "Machine Shop Basics" videos before, but it has been a while. Not sure if I want to focus on this format or not, but I will probably continue to use it from time to time.
As a youngster my father (Master Machinist) would only let me use Vernier calipers for measurement. Do it 50 times a day and you get good, pretty fast. I couldn't take it anymore and went over to Ebay and put in a bid on one.
Keith, how do you know how tight to do up the collar which assembles the rod to the barrel as this affects the calibration (aka the fit of the assembly to the barrel); as you don't mention this while callibrating the rods, as if you 'finger tighten' the rods during calibration, you MUST repeat this (like concentricity in a lathe chuck, with the same jaws in the same spots)- ie do you use the 'ratchet top' to tension this nut?, to keep consistentcy.
Great video as usual. Would you do a video on the Vernier caliper. I just had to have one, so I bought on Ebay and it sure is a challenge to understand. Knowing how to use this caliper just might justify buying it : ) . My caliper is a L.S. Starrett 50 division. Now, I guess I need to buy a depth mic and practice what I have learned here. Thanks so much for another great video. Ken ...Marina CA
I will see what I can do. I think I only have one vernier caliper - a Starrett 24". I can't remember if I showed how to read it when I got that one or not.
Thank you Mr. Rucker for the lesson. I wanted to ask you a question that was from a previous video. This is about the lathe you bought. You demonstrated how over time that the table gets worn out on both axis as much as 10 thousands in your case. I guess what I was wondering is on a brand new machine how much is acceptable? I know it can't be perfect but what would be a typical measurement? Thanks again for your videos
I guess I'm getting here a little late, but I just picked up a Brown and Sharpe 1/2" depth micrometer with an adjustable rod. Shows a patent date of 1898, so not new. It has half inch graduations, but they don't quite line up dead on with the thimble at zero. Tip is chamfered, and when you feel the graduation catch inside at zero, the edge of the chamber is dead zero with the base. I can set it to use it with a standard, but they probably had a different intent with the lines. Haven't quite got it figured out, but I can at least use it.
Someone may of tried to adjust the mic like you’d adjust an outside micrometer or just rotated the sleeve accidentally? If you wanna fix it you should try this: - Unscrew the ratchet - Remove the rod - Unscrew the thimble and you’ll find a collet. - Loosen the collet and that will allow you to rotate the sleeve. - Put it back together and you’ll most likely need to adjust the rod to zero it out. Hope that helps even though this is a year later lol
Any idea where you can get a replacement base for that depth micrometer or any one for that matter? There is a nice Mitutoyo Depth Micrometer set at one of my local thrift stores for $20, but the micrometer base is pretty badly pitted.
Yeah, or if you have gauge blocks that are known to be good, just use them directly (especially if your shop has a constant temperature, if not, yes, do check them first).
Thanks for bringing back some memories of when I was riding Tincans. Each 5"/54 had a Starrett 0-12" depth mike as one of the "Special Tools" required. We didn't use them much, but the quality and precision was appreciated.
Hey Keith, i have a depth mic that I’m not sure if needs calibration. When its set to zero the pin is exactly flush with the base of the tool. When i set it on a machined surface and ratchet it down, i get a reading of .0015. The issue I’m having is that i can see the pin is extended farther than the base of the tool and can feel it when i run my finger over it. Any insight?
