I have a few points I’d like to make. 1: I hope you are proud of your skills, knowledge and forethought. 2: I hope whoever trained you is similarly proud of their skills, knowledge, forethought and teaching capabilities. 3: I hope whoever you work for pays you very well. New subscription from me. Cheers and keep up the incredible work.
@Tony Wilson I've only very recently found this channel but instantly realised this guy's far above most othe channels. He can't even brag that he has all the tooling - in this case, no dividing head. I disagree re the flat milling for the simple reason he was relying only on the jaws holding the work - there didn't appear to be anything the work was resting on - so as far as I'm concerned, could have been pushed down and out of alignment. I think I'd prefer his first suggestion of the hex collet holder in the jaws with the work hanging over - but with a support put under the bar (screw jack) to take the pressure of machining.
@Tony Wilson Hmm, One minute you're saying there isn't a downward force and the next saying the overhanging rod might flex. The idea of supporting the rod is to avoid the flex. I'm pretty sure there will be downward force due to a little rounding at the end of the mill. Again though, cuts were not massive. He could have supported the bar while mounted in the vice but didn't mention that so I assume he didn't. The rounded corners will aid slippage not reduce the risk. Crisp corners would be better for this - for the same reason footballers use spiked shoes.
@Tony Wilson I'm just pointing out problems that could occur with his setup of unsupported work. Everyone else seems to put things like parallels under items in the vice to ensure they're level with the machine and stay that way.
Mr. Crispin's videos demonstrate the value of a proper apprenticeship. He already has the knowledge and skills at 23 that otherwise would take most machinists 25 years to acquire on the job. Cheers from NC/USA
Great stuff mr Crispin! You look like a young man but sound like a 50years of machining experience😃 Very good and that Brithish humor gets me every time👌
Dear Sir, I firmly believe that you sir would make a most excellent teacher of fine machining. Young men and women would greatly benefit from your experience and your logical thought processes. Your grasp of the English language is crisp, concise and has excellent clarity. This opinion is coming from an engineering background as I am retired fitter and machinist, and many of the techniques have seen greatly impressed me and have show me things I would not have thought of. I dear say; lets have three cheers for Mr Crispin
One great thing about your videos (for a beginner like me) is to hear the noises the machines make when working. It really helps me understand where I am with my own machining.
Very informative but I must stop watching your videos! Last time I ended up purchasing some second hand slip gauges, and very nice they are too. Now I NEED some ER40 collets to complement my new mill 😃
This video is invaluable, jam-packed with a wealth of good information, well done. Just the brief flash of the wires held in a piece of foam would have made it well worth the price of admission. Thanks.
Such a pleasure to see a proper engineer who is not afraid of a bit of grease and oil on his hands. Yes, I am looking at you pansies that wear gloves in this type of video. Anyhoo, great work Mr. Crispin. Making nuts sounds simple, but you make it interesting as always.
I like that proper sized Mitutoyo caliper behind you. :-) Good details on cutting the nuts to leave the round for gripping and on cutting chamfer to allow for deformation. Better hold on to that extra nut bound to wind up needing it before it is all over. LOL
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Mr. Crispin you have earned a folder with your name on it in my You Tube Saved system. I would normally just list this in my "Tools Folder" but you have earned a folder of your own. You and Joe Pie are my most likely to learn from list. I just love the simple idea of using the 1-2-3 block to support the collet block outside the vice jaws. I am currently working on a rifle project and this idea will certainly be used making one of the items. Thanks a million for sharing your knowledge with us.
Not so complicated, in fact very efficient sequence of operations. Of course hex stock could of help, but what if you only have the round stuff, in that case your sequence could save hours and prevent you from going NUTS.
Love the reverse psychology of holding the work and not the hex block. only taking a light cut so not really important, but you were cutting against the moving jaw and not the fixed jaw. :-)
Great content, well presented and entertaining. I'm a long time woodworker, but I about to inherit an old lathe in need to repair. Can wait to start learning to machine. Keep up the great work and humor.
And your Mitutoyo vernier clock, we had one where I used it work at an aerospace company, I searched high and low and could never find one for myself 😢 looked everywhere where did you acquire yours?
4-sided and 6-sided collet blocks are readily available. However, a single 12-sided collet block could take the place of both of these. It would have the additional advantage that the top, bottom and side surfaces would always be flat against the vise jaws and base, with the top surface readily clockable. It's curious that these don't seem to be available.
Look up item number 153009163632 in google any you should find a 12 sided collet block for sale in eBay Australia. For about fifty bucks you could also get a spin indexer which will let let you get 1° increments. I just bought a dividing head about a month or so ago but would reach for my collet blocks first if they would do the job.
Thanks for showing the 1,2,3 block technique, to eliminate overhang while using the hex block. You make parting off look so easy - and without resorting to a rear toolpost. Regards Paul
I very much appreciate how you share your thought process as you go. As an amateur, it is good to learn better methods of how to approach projects to achieve the best feasible accuracy and efficiency. It's also nice to pick up little tricks from you like the nut counterbores. And as for the hex stock, the choices in some areas (like here) is very limited, most places only carry common inch sizes of 12L14, so anything otherwise must be made up from round.
just bought a dividing head- is there a way to align tailstock without a alignment test bar? the alignment test bar i have is much longer than the workpiece mandrel I intend using-so if I used alignment bar - i would have to move the tailstock after to accommodate mandrel
He could easily have stayed up the painters ladder and operated the lathe controls with the extended paint roller handle. Would that make it suitably more complicated? Or would we like to see him blindfolded as well?😁
Hi Mr Crispin, excellent job on the parting and good sequencing. I am just setting my shop and channel up, we should compare notes sometime as I have just left RR after 13 years, I take it you were Derby based? Keep up the good work. Jon
Good day Mr. Crispin, wonderful craftsman skills you have there. Mate I have just received some 1" squared HSS tooling, which is etched with "Stalker Rolls-Royce T901499 11-44. Just wondering if I could email you a photo. Kind Regards Wayne
Superb skills and methods -- but I have to admit I never thought I would be so impressed by another mans nuts-!-LOL - (sorry, bad taste - but I figure if anyone can handle off color humor its the british)-lol Love your work Mr. C. always very professional.
Proof of a sound competent apprentice pathway. Not sure what’s going on in Australia these days but the level of expertise in a lot of young tradesmen is a worry. I was asked by a forth year apprentice how square a job had to be, I asked what the drawings called for, he replied 90dg, i said there you go, he replied just have a look with your square and tell me if you think it’s ok, I replied , if it’s square by your square it’s square, he said it’s a bit under on my square, I said well it’s not square, he said it’s only a little bit. Forth year apprentice in his first week at our shop. Not his fault. I have come across tradesmen boilermakers years out of there apprenticeship not able to read simple drawings. I have also come across boilermakers who did not serve there 4 years who are more competent than a lot of those who served there time yet they are often paid less purely because they hold no ticket. Really happy to have found your channel I have recently purchased a lathe for my home shop and while I can and have used one many times, accuracy and tolerance have not been a major concern. Watching your process has been educational for me, thank you.
Hello I am a aspiring 15 year old with a lathe and a small mill but would like to upgrade. I am currently building a 5 inch gauge loco. I would like to become a machinist like you in the future but I dont know what path to take Do you have any suggestions?
1:42 I'd go for that arrangement and put some support under the bar. With the bar in the vice instead, you're relying on the vice jaws to hold the material - which could potentially be pushed down.
Hello how are you? I just recently stumbled across your channel. I really like your home machine shop and it is coming along nicely. You must be very happy with that. So you mind me asking if you're still teaching? I'm a D&T teacher & engineering instructor based in Melbourne Australia. Cheers, Aaron Powter.
Not sure about a more complex way but for simple fasteners they look great and extremely what you wanted. Paint fumes can make you dizzy and apparently you work well impaired with your nuts in hand. Thanks for sharing stay safe and well
how lovely....... 😊 I've even saved this video for future reference. Incredible amount of clever process information embedded in here for those capable of looking past the machining nut. Thank you so much Mr Crispin!!!!
Can you demonstrate a method for turning loco buffers with the correct profile without using cnc. Im sure there is a way of using a profiled template bolted to the lathe bed with a follower attached to the saddle that ensures each buffer is the same shape. Keep up the good work. Dave
No wonder those RR Merlin engines were so well built all those years years ago when we needed them. I am convinced that all steam locomotives machinists came out of the same top mould. I have the twins to those Whit spanners from the days I had a James 197cc (an English bike) I had in the late 50’s during my RAF Medical Branch posting in Germany. Still have those spanners and use them on my lathes etc. A pleasure to see your superb workmanship- I always learn something too. Stay safe up there. Ex Leeds, 👍🛠😁🇬🇧🇦🇺-now in Tasmania-42 South
Shevill Mathers the Rolls Royce Merlins were essentially hand built/hand fitted when assembling - not great for production especially during wartime when time is critical. It was only when the Americans at Packard got hold of it that they ‘productionised’ it and made it with interchangeable parts machined to close enough tolerances so that it’d all fit together without all the hand fitting.
Well done as alway Cris. Collet blocks are quick and handy for things like nuts, just used a square on to put the flats on an access plug for the Clayton.
@MrCrispin I would be greatly appreciative of the Name/source of the book you show in the opening ssegment of this video. I desparately desire to make steam engines from original documents that have been bound. thank you.
Another great video you have made Mr Crispin, I do like the methodical way that you work. Can you tell us if this was ingrained From your time at Rolls Royce or another time?l anyway enjoy the rest of the week, Phil. thanks
