After sweeping,deburring and cleaning machines. My first job was boring out 8 inch diameter 20in long . I even now get goose bumps remembering the pile of copper continuous chips piling my height and wearing out gloves. You would have to Pull that chip. About 1974 .I don’t think there’s a better way to this day
Dude, you have helped me so much with these videos. I started in a hole in the wall shop as a maintenance guy and i have always known cnc... lo and behold this place had two bridgeports, a monarch and a livingston and gallmeyer grinder. I am glad your channel is up on youtube. I love how you explain all the little details and side notes. Keep turning round things square and square things round!
Working with 304 stainless everyday you learn in a hurry not to tough chips even with gloves. I keep a pliers by the lathe and have a bent up 1/4 rod that i call my snake hook to pull chips out, that way I don't get "bit".
When I first started out in this trade a long time ago. I wanted to see how much of a chip load the inserts could take. I was surprised to see how heavy of a cut they could handle. In that little experiment, I learned that you never touch chips with your bare hands. They slice and dice with no hesitation!! But also speeds and feeds are key to getting the chips to break and your inserts can remove a tremendous amount of material if those speeds and feeds are right.
So did I, What feed per rev did you achieve? When I tried this I could face steel at .050 thou per rev. I problem with a CNMG 432, and I turned at roughly ,040 per rev but I could bring it up to .055 and my lathe only then started to bog down, this was all in 1018 steel or 4140. I never had long stringy chips! Feed harder
At Alliance Tool & Design, the owner had started machining, before I was born. He bid jobs, according to what it would take him to do the job, start to finish. I was the night shift supervisor. Guys with little, or no experience. So setting up, and running my own jobs, was more than challenging. So he would take cuts, that made the motors let you know that they were loaded down. Quarter of an inch, or more. A high school Machining program would never prepare, a kid, for the real, World, Git-R-Done, pace we had. Motors whining and complaining, smoke and steam, billowing up, and someone, coming up for help, or an executive decision. Knowing the owner's philosophy, and he's already home, asleep, I have a coin toss decision, that could affect my career, so I was under stress. I guess, he was under much more. We wore out, worn out machines, but the old motors, never burned out.
May I suggest, using a cell phone to photograph your close up shots as a still image and dropping them in when and if you do edits.....Cell phones are very sharp and can focus very close or be cropped into for even closer view, and they do not wiggle around on screen.......I hope this helps, this viewer likes to see the details real big....my $100 phone that is 2 or 3 years old is marvelous. a Samsung Galaxy A11.....can not afford anytime more at my old age.....cheers, Paul....opps, I Made this comment before getting to 18:30......
When I started using a lathe back in 1996, I made the mistake of pulling stainless stringy chips out of the lathe when it was off....I had a pair of leather gloves on, so I thought I was protected... well, the chip caught on something, and that sawtooth stainless type chip cut right through the leather glove and into my finger.....I learned a very valuable lesson.....no glove will protect you from a chip and always use pliers or some other tool, not your hands......thank you for a very informative video, best regards, hope you stay warm in Alaska, Paul in Florida.
i'm happy to say i learned that lesson with a much smaller cut since then i haven't touched a chip with my hand it's either the chiphook or diagonal cutters
Chips have screwed themselves into hands and arms. Once a guy got a blue chip, fell into his shirt pocket, and set off his matches. HSS grinding, is almost always done, with the chip breaker in mind.
I turn Berylco on a manual, terrible for chip breaking, even with inserts and healthy feeds n speeds. I deal with stringers and birds nests on a regular basis. I'm desensitized to the spinning ball of death now, but I try and keep the chip pan empty
Hey 👋 that sliding hammer Drift key is an instant connection between a tasks of waiting and having accomplished a change out of simple mores tappers.my tapping head could hold a 7/8 tap i think even 1" inch square. On round as well.tuns is at rated rpm and shoots at 5 times the speed. The directional bar was1/2 "dia 36 inches long the unit was 16" long.CCCP..or ussr😂 the weight was over 7 kilos my boss bought me a realy nice piece of burillum.bronze.and made three differnt 🔨. My brother did tons of automotive repairs. 😅
Do t forget you might wear out that butto doing that chip break technique, it seems like the modern co trols should have an option to lace a dewell chain into to the path. Have you heard of this. The new Makito control is amazing. Also, do you use those twin height adjusts on your aloris quick changes to lower or raise the tools anngle, gues ive never seen it, but cool stuff.
Thanks for posting. Interesting content on your channel. It takes a rare personality to master a trade AND make videos. Could I suggest some light editing? Every time you go fetch something, some people will click away. The video feels like you're teaching me in-person. But online, good content will go farther with a touch of production. Just a touch, though. Don't go this-old-house on us. The working shop and working man part of the channel is a credibility boost and differentiate you from the crowd. Good Luck.
Ahhhhh the evil stringers. I had one that was like a mean old snake chased me halfway across my shop had to grab the broom quickly and use the handle to shut it off before the tool crashed into the chuck that was sketchy af lol. Out of curiosity what are obs chevy front torsion bar suspension made from? I make lots of use of mystery metal/scaptonium for lots of parts however trying to turn these torsion bar into pins for my tractor was a pain. Tried inserts first did not like those at all started work Harding found that using high speed tools worked out good only if the tool was really sharp as if turning aluminum and run the lathe as slow as possible 70 rpm then it would cut really nice and extremely nice finish then came time to drill the lynch pin holes again had to run as slow as the mill would go and bit as sharp as possible tried with coolant work hardened immediately and burned up bit other wise slow speed and lots of pressure made it through. Those torsion bar are definitely hard but i would have thought the carbide inserts would have been better. That's why I would like to know what they are made of because they sure make good pins plus I have a bunch of them. 👍👍🍻🚜
@hiddenworldforge374 they are only visible for a second when he moves in this video but they are in the direct background in other videos and shorts. Large gray cabinets.
So I always rough at .020" ish feed slow rpm and as much cut as the tool and machine will take. Finish at .004" to .005" feed high rpm and bugger all radius tool. 👍
I machine only copper at my work now, it mills great, drills OK, but turning, my god, the stringiest chips know to man, there is basically no way when turning to break the chips, unless you had like a peck turn or varied spindle speed but we don’t have the post for that. It faces good though. It’s basically a spinning death trap when I turn it, if anyone has any recommendations specific to copper I’d appreciate it, and yes Iv tried feeding harder, that principle doesn’t work when turning copper
