Macintosh 800K Floppy Drive Recap & Lube

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Recapping & Lubrication walkthrough of Apple (SONY) 800K 3.5" floppy drives (MP-51W & MFD-51W series) used in the 1986 Macintosh 512Ke & Plus, and the 1987 Macintosh SE.
⚠️ A recap won't fix most problems but it is important. Mac disassembly & reassembly details are shown my 400K recapping video: • Recapping Apple 400K 3...
⚠️ Don't confuse Super Lube greases! I used the synthetic PTFE "multi-purpose" grease, model 21030. Super Lube also has a silicone based grease that is model 92003, but I did NOT use that. Buy the 21030 grease because you can safely mix it with PTFE Super Lube oil (51010) if you need to. That is important because Super Lube does NOT recommend mixing 92003 grease with Super Lube oil.
🔎 INDEX
0:00 - Intro
2:19 - Capacitor Locations
4:41 - Capacitor Replacement
14:18 - Microscope view
18:55 - Lifting head for cleaning
21:13 - Protective yellow plastic disk
22:37 - Metal Mounting Bracket
24:31 - Ribbon Cable Types (stripe color)
26:20 - Disk Ejection Woe
26:57 - Cleaning & Lube
30:11 - Sliding smooth with KURE 5-56 (WD-40)
34:22 - Plastic Gearbox Disassembly
37:43 - Gear that usually breaks
40:31 - Microscope view of Gears
47:06 - Head Assembly Removal for lubrication
52:02 - SuperLube Grease & Oil
1:00:51 - Gearbox Lube
1:01:16 - Mixing Grease & Oil
1:11:27 - Hot Glue on Bottom Plate of Gearbox
1:25:51 - Springs
1:26:23 - Final Testing
1:28:34 - Closing Words
🛒 CAPACITORS:
• Mouser Cart: bit.ly/3hjmadz
⚠️ Before you buy, check your 800K drive's capacitance values so you can compare with my Mouser cart. I created this Mouser cart using my 800K drive, model MFD-51W-03.
🛠️ TOOLS & THINGS TO BUY:
• Super Lube 21030 Synthetic PTFE Grease (NOT Silicone!): amzn.to/3f54Hn7
• Super Lube PTFE Oil 51010: amzn.to/2ANvXI7
• Molykote EM-30L: amzn.to/3t8AaBq
• 99% ISO Alcohol (Spray Bottle!): amzn.to/3ae4fG6
• 99% ISO Alcohol: amzn.to/3NoFkxN
• 99% ISO Alcohol: amzn.to/2YsK8v3
💁‍♂️3 alcohol choices because it's often out of stock.
• WD-40 (same as KURE 5-56): amzn.to/2MW4OFr
⚠️ Use WD-40 (or KURE 5-56) only for deeper cleaning, then remove it before applying grease and oil.
• J-B Weld (steel-reinforced epoxy): amzn.to/3h5sftP
• Hot-Glue Gun & sticks (if you have broken plastics like me): amzn.to/39hBfav
• 4.3" LCD Microscope: amzn.to/3uyletQ
• UV Solder Mask (Green): amzn.to/3hogoaE
• Anti-static pad with Wrist Strap (16x24" / 41x61cm): amzn.to/3bfAE9Z
or
• Hi-temp Anti-static pad with Wrist Strap (16x12" / 41x30cm): amzn.to/2SOm1nK
• Wall socket Ground adapter for banana-jack Wrist Strap: amzn.to/2Yvq5ge
• Torx T15 with LONG neck (to open Mac): amzn.to/3qLyJYb
• Bulldog Clip (helpful to pry off back case): amzn.to/2H7lIhF
• 1 Cotton Swab for head cleaning
• Phillips Screwdriver (+)
• Needle Nose Pliers: amzn.to/2U9Kc0M
• Wire Nippers 4.5": amzn.to/2J4Wkdk
• Flat-head (-) Screwdriver (for CRT discharging)
• Wire with alligator clips at both ends (for CRT discharging)
• Soldering iron with °F-only LCD & Solder Kit (80W, cheap!): amzn.to/36BYi0K
or
• Soldering Station (120W, ESD safe): amzn.to/30g1Frt
• Solder (Leaded Rosin Core 1.6mm): amzn.to/3IGuxxm
• Desoldering wick: amzn.to/3iMAnA5
💁‍♂️TIP: Set soldering iron temperature to 350°C. Don't use lead-free solder.
• DE-5000 Handheld LCR Meter: amzn.to/2ScttJz
💁‍♂️The best handheld meter to check capacitor ESR. Includes all 3 accessories: TL-21, TL-22 & TL-23.
💵 If you do click & purchase links above within 24 hours, Amazon may pay me a small commission.
📚 USEFUL INFORMATION:
• Super Lube Grease 21030 Specs: bit.ly/2XLIRPy
• Mixing SuperLube PTFE grease & oil: bit.ly/3cG2Xit
• Super Lube Plastics & Rubber Compatibility: bit.ly/2Y9AUms
• Super Lube Grease Compatibility (mixability): bit.ly/2YjtiOa
• Molycote EM-30L Grease Specs: bit.ly/2UpxNph
💾 Sony Test 7.0 DOWNLOAD: macintoshgarden.org/apps/sony...
• "Sony Test" discussion: bit.ly/2xLMDOS
• 800K Drive Specs (brief): bit.ly/2A8JhXA
• 800K Drive Specs (detailed): bit.ly/30yNcYz
• 800K drives on Macs with 64K ROMs: bit.ly/3fE7Rj0
• VIDEO by LaPorta (68kMLA) that helped me: • Sony 800k & 1.4MB Flop...
🗣 Helpful Groups:
• 68kMLA: 68kmla.org
• Vintage Apple Macintosh Enthusiasts: bit.ly/2YgpDRb
• Vintage Macintosh Restoration & Preservation: bit.ly/2XKFzfK
💰SUPPORT THIS CHANNEL
www.paypal.me/supportJDW
🙏 SINCERE THANKS to these Paypal contributors in May 2020:
• Mark Jozaitis (of MacEffects)
• David Goodson
🙏 Thank you, Joe (jjclay at 68kMLA), for donating a tub of Molykote EM-30L.
📺 SUBSCRIBE:
ru-vid.com?sub_c...
🎬 MY VIDEOS
/ jdw26
#Apple #800kfloppy #Macintosh #JDW

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22 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 113

@JDW- 3 года назад

I'd like to thank Ken Newman for sharing his drive repair experience. I mention ribbon cable stripe color at 24:31. Please note that the oldest 800K drives require the RED strip cable. It's rather confusing, I know, but this excellent forum post makes it all a but easier to understand: bit.ly/3ptEyTO

@santospoland 4 года назад

Please don't apologize for the length of the video. Subscribers to this channel know full well that your videos are the result of significant attention to detail and time consuming research. Thank you for all your effort James, it means a lot to the community!

@JDW- 4 года назад

Thank you, Alex! By the way, I just added RU-vid Chapter Markers for the first time within the last hour. Previously, I had INDEX timestamps in my text description, but now the chapter markets enhance that further. I think it goes a long way toward making my long videos more accessible for people who wish to jump to different sections. Maybe the gentleman who gave this video a thumbs-down will change his mind now. :-)

@santospoland 4 года назад

@@JDW- Chapters are an excellent feature, it makes a lot of sense for your productions because of their instructional nature; this makes restarting a sequence or referencing one of your video's chapters a breeze.

@santospoland 4 года назад

Chapters in the video time line and the description itself. Amazing when making any references. Thanks James!

@philippbokrand26 4 года назад

A production reference for so many RU-vidr's. Always amazed.

@JDW- 4 года назад

I’m truly humbled by your gracious words, Philip. Thank you.

@JeffG-uo7vx 2 месяца назад

The strong alcohol on q-tips under magnification did not work. However, I found a great solution. Those Disc-cleaning disks that you wet with solvent/alcohol worked wonders on ALL of my malfunctioning drives. A few drives needed 2 passes but they all work. Thanks again. JG

@JDW- 2 месяца назад

A Q-tip is softer, while those cleaning disks are ever so slightly more abrasive. So if indeed a cleaning disk worked to resurrect all your drives, it means your heads had some seriously caked on gunk that prevented normal operation. Ultimately, you were able to resolve the issue with your drives and that's what matters most. Congratulations and best wishes!

@concorde2003 Год назад

Hello, and thanks for a great video. Last year, I cleaned and lubed about 8 drives. I just used standard hardware store Lithium grease. It looks like I need to start over. I have two drives that I serviced last year that gave me some trouble this morning. Neither had been used since about 1994, and they were both OEM equipment in my Mac II. The II is all re-capped and working great. When I first put disk in the right drive, it attempted to read and then ejected. But it did a groany partial eject. Hmm. I moved the disk to the left drive and got the same results. After that, neither drive would respond in any way. They both seemed electrically disconnected from the Mac II. I did a bunch of random fiddling with the ribbon cables (original to the Mac II) and checked and re-seated connections on the drive PCB. After that, the right drive decided to work again. The left drive is still inop. I'm wondering if anything above indicates that re-capping is necessary. I thought I'd done an excellent and thorough job of servicing my drives last year. I'm disappointed to find that they're giving me problems. I don't know if you read comments. But I thought I'd give it a shot. Thanks again.

@JDW- Год назад

I read and reply to all comments under all my videos that I perceive to need a reply. I hate it when I need to interact with a video creator here on RU-vid and they ignore me, which motivates me to never do that to other people. Your description indicates there is not a complete electrical problem because you were able to get the disks ejected. A groaning ejection can indicate many things, but I assume your cleaning and lube extended to the ejection gearbox as well -- without that, ejection will be a problem. Motors do go bad, and I have not covered that in my videos. But it's sometimes hard to say if it is the motor or the driver circuitry on the PCB. Even so, it is interesting to hear that your touching of the ribbon cables caused one of the two drives to suddenly start working again. That would seem to indicate either a problem with the cable or the soldered connections on the PCB side at the mating connector. If you jiggle a cable and then something suddenly starts working, that is not a sign that capacitors are the root problem. With that said, no fluid filled capacitor has eternal life, and I replace all capacitors like that when I have the time, including floppy drives. Just because some people say "I've never recapped my floppy drives and mine work fine" doesn't invalidate the need to recap them. What you are most concerned about is what the cause is for your non-working drives. I see no evidence in your posts that it is the capacitors. Once a drive has been fully lubed with the right lubrication (and not too much of that lubrication either), assuming there is no broken gear problem, and assuming the motor is good, cables are good, and no PCB defects, then the root cause is usually a misaligned head. Capacitor changes would come at the very end. A member over at the Tinker Different forum has posted this excellent guide on head alignment: tinkerdifferent.com/resources/zero-track-alignment.37/download If you follow that guide and find it does not help, I strongly suggest that you post your experience on Tinker Different in the following thread so that others more informed than I am can chime in with additional thoughts and ideas: tinkerdifferent.com/forums/magnetic-storage.68/

@santospoland 4 года назад

James, the video is OVER THE TOP! If anyone is looking for a video on how to do a complete restore to your 800K 3.5" floppy drives (MP-51W & MFD-51W series) be sure to check out this video.

@JDW- 4 года назад

Thank you for your kind words, Alex!

@cooperschwartz318 6 месяцев назад

I bought the super lube oil and grease and I cleaned everything in my drive, replaced the gear, and relubricated everything and it works beautifully!

@JDW- 6 месяцев назад

That’s wonderful to hear. Thank you for making time to let me know!

@cooperschwartz318 6 месяцев назад

@@JDW-Yeah I think it works a bit too well, the disk is quite literally snatched from your hand and it shoots about 90% of the way out when you manually eject it

@JDW- 6 месяцев назад

@@cooperschwartz318 Well, in that case, I guess it's good you aren't ejecting disks in space: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-99pXlcakHdE.htmlsi=-AHKPR-SDJz7EfNp&t=21

@cooperschwartz318 5 месяцев назад

@@JDW-I think it would shoot my disks to the moon! 😂

@BCjeffro420 4 года назад

good video thanks

@JDW- 4 года назад

There's an INDEX in the text description, Jeff, making it easier to jump to different sections. I felt that is important since this is a very long and detailed video. Thanks!

@tenminutetokyo2643 2 года назад

Lore has it that Steve's trip to Sony Japan to procure the 3.5" drive had a profound impact on his design sense overall for the Mac.

@JDW- 2 года назад

It's actually more than just the 3.5" drive mechansim, as described in the NHK video about Steve Jobs love of Japanese art, and his frequent trips to Japan, which I have linked in the following post on the TinkerDifferent forum: tinkerdifferent.com/threads/nhk-video-steve-jobs-love-of-japanese-art.1365/

@tenminutetokyo2643 Год назад

Dood Classic Reloaded MoBo just shipped. On sale at MacEffects.

@StephenArsenault 3 года назад

Very thorough video, James. Appreciate your efforts to compile and share knowledge for the broader community in high quality videos! Would you mind sharing details on the needle nose pliers you use in the section to remove the eccentric arm in the ejection drive? 40:02

@JDW- 3 года назад

Hi, Stephen. At that timestamp, I actually show a pair of tweezers along with the needle nose pliers, but I think you mean the very slightly larger pliers with the angled tip. They are Model No. LS-04 and seem to be only sold in Japan and made by "3 Peaks." They are sold on Amazon Japan but not Amazon US: www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/LS-04/dp/B001V7M0WW They are 165mm long, measured from the tip to the end of the handles. Closed Width of the handles is 48mm. Handle length: 97mm. Angled part of tip Length: 10mm. Further details are shown at the bottom of page 50 in the 3 Peaks Catalog here (Model No. LS-04): www.3peaks.co.jp/catalog/2021/itemcatalog/index_h5.html#51

@JDW- 3 года назад

Stephen, if you find a similar or equivalent version on Amazon, then purchase it and find you are satisfied, please let me know the product page so I can add it to the text description under this video. I think that tool is very useful and could be a big help to others.

@ndjedinak 2 года назад

Excellent video, thank you! I am about to embark on a project to restore my original Macintosh SE with Superdrive; have you cleaned and lubed a 1.44, and if so, any tips on things that don't match the 800k's?

@JDW- 2 года назад

My video on the 1.44MB drive is here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ia513LCN7jY.html

@TimtravellerfromMA Год назад

Hi JDW, I love your videos. I have been practicing soldering and think I may be ready to start recapping some of my Apple Babies. Are the capacitors on this Internal Floppy drive the same ones on the external 800k Floppy Drive?

@JDW- Год назад

Very possibly, yes. But because I've not inspected every single 800K model variant, I strongly recommend that you disassemble your external 800K drive to take a look and confirm your caps are the same, not only in terms of voltage and capacitance markings, but also physical size. Calipers are the best way to make detailed size measurements. Make sure the Width and Height of your drive's caps aren't bigger than the replacement capacitors in the Mouser Cart I've prepared: bit.ly/3hjmadz

@diags6468 2 года назад

Hi James, Any reason you didn’t replace the electrolytic capacitors with tantalum capacitors for this floppy drive?

@JDW- 2 года назад

Yes. It's because the appropriate voltage-rated Tantalum capacitors could have physically been too large. The electrolytic were just barely small enough to fit. It's important to remember that the voltage specification of tantalum capacitors needs to be twice the working voltage to prevent premature death by voltage spikes. On a 12V line, that means using a 25V Tantalum cap. On a 5V line, it means using a 10V Tantalum. The higher the voltage rating for Tantalum though, the larger the physical size of the tantalum cap. And although Polymer Tantalum does allow you to safely use a lower voltage rating (and therefore a smaller physical size), those types are only available in surface mount SMD.

@jshippam3189 2 года назад

Was Molykote used originally throughout - or did they use some sort of oil in certain places? If so, which oil?

@JDW- 2 года назад

Thank you for your question. Molykote "grease" was originally applied by Sony in areas that I applied grease in my video. The original "oil" brand used by Sony is unknown, but they did use some kind of oil in places where I added oil in my video. I recommend that you use SuperLube Grease and Oil because (1) they can be mixed, and (2) they are safe on plastics. Links and more information in the text description above, just below the video. Simply click SHOW MORE to expand it on a desktop computer. Please let me know if this helps!

@Toby_Q 3 года назад

Wow the video quality on this video is superb. I can just about read everything on that mac analog board sitting next to you! What camera do you use?

@JDW- 3 года назад

Thank you for your kind comment. I used a Panasonic GH5 camera, shooting in the HLG profile (10-bit 4K) for the best dynamic range. I believe the lens used in this video was the Olympus 12-100mm F4. I edit my videos in FCPX (on a Mac) and apply a bit of Unsharp Mask there, rather than use in-camera sharpening. I should add that Panasonic released the GH5 in 2017, but it's still a great camera today. They just released the GH5II, which means prices of the GH5 are now on the decline. It's still more expensive than you're typical point-and-shoot camera, but well worth the money, I think. By the way, I made a video about my camera setup at the following URL, and if you expand the text description under that video, you'll find links to all the camera items shown: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yrnOVp7mXrs.html

@8bitwidgets 3 года назад

Hey there, I'm back. =D SE is still working well, but I wondered if you have any experience with 90's era Mitsubishi floppy drives from say, a Quadra 650? I have had two of them exhibit the same behavior. at first when they arrive, they work fine. except after maybe less than a week of modest usage, the drive wants to format every disk.. and when you format it, it says the disk is defective.. even when it had just read that same floppy not 20min before it started acting up.. NOTE: ejection is fine and inserting.. this is entirely about the reading/writing going on with both of them. both also are reasonably clean. no signs of dirt / dust. i have dusted them out. Much thanks!

@JDW- 3 года назад

You’re talking about 1.44 MB floppy drives. I had the same problem with a 1.44 MB floppy drive inside my SE/30 until I tore it apart to lubricated it properly. That was true even though the drive was relatively clean prior to my lube job. If after properly lubricating the drive you still have the same problem, the only explanation I can see would be that the head is slightly misaligned.

@jeffginsburg3603 3 месяца назад

Hi, Another great video!! My floppies now fly out of the drive. I have a few questions if you don't mind: 1. Once the drive is clean and back in the computer, what do you think of those "drive cleaner disks" that you put cleaning liquid in and insert into your drive? 2. I have a few drives that just do not want to read or write any disks. Could changing the capacitors help? I am purchasing brand-new disks to see if it is just due to the age of my disks. 3. Any idea why Sony Test 7 would cause a bus error? I can't run it on my SE/30. Thanks, Jeff G

@JDW- 3 месяца назад

Answers: 1. If you put a strong alcohol on your perfectly clean cleaning disk (something like 99% IPA), then it should work well to clean the heads. Even so, I've found that gunk which has been caked on the heads for decades takes a lot of cleaning before it comes off. I had to manually clean the heads with 100% IPA and a swap 5 times before I could get the gunk all off the heads on one of my drives. I couldn't see it at first, which is why I didn't think head cleaning was the cause of my drive's read/write failures, but on close examination with a magnifying glass, I could see yellow gunk on the heads. And like I said, it took five cleanings to get it off, after which, the drive would read/write just fine. 2. Changing the capacitors is a very good idea, and I recommend it. But it is unlikely the cause of your read/write problems. Purchasing new disks is a good idea, but do not use HD 1.44MB disks in 400K and 800K drives! Don't listen to anyone who tells you otherwise. There's a magnetic field difference at work. Use 1 or 2 sided disks only in 800K or 400K drives. In 1.44MB drives, you can use all 3 types. 3. The SE/30 has a different CPU. Sony Test is a boot disk with one of the earliest set of System Software on it. I know for a fact that my SE (not SE/30, but SE) with 800K drive can run System 1.1g, but not the very early system software that came on the demo disks, which was pre-System 1.0. And on the SE FDHD with 1.44MB drives, the ROMs require System 6 and higher, I believe. The SE/30 absolutely requires System 6.0.4 and higher, which far newer than the OS on the Sony Test floppies. So what you are seeing is normal behavior on an SE/30.

@jeffginsburg3603 3 месяца назад

@@JDW- Thanks again for your very thorough answers. I'll get those heads under a microscope this weekend and see if I can clean them better.

@jeffginsburg3603 2 месяца назад

@JDW- 2 месяца назад

@@jeffginsburg3603 A Q-tip is softer, while those cleaning disks are ever so slightly more abrasive. So if indeed a cleaning disk worked to resurrect all your drives, it means your heads had some seriously caked on gunk that prevented normal operation. Ultimately, you were able to resolve the issue with your drives and that's what matters most. Congratulations and best wishes!

@kennewman126 3 года назад

Thanks ever so much for the AMAZING video, James! I have so many questions, as I'm currently trying to get a few of these drives back into working condition. Type of lubricant: other videos suggest using Lithium grease......differences with eject mechanism that has screws instead of clips....eject mechanism that doesn't quite eject all the way....drive cable with red stripe vs. yellow stripe.......I think you get the idea, and I think maybe you have the entire text of my original questions.... Again, many many thanks for such great information!!

@JDW- 3 года назад

Thank you for your very kind words, Ken! A lot of people use Lithium grease with success, and there is nothing wrong with it. If that is what you have, then please go ahead and use that. I did not have that on hand, which is why I purchased the Super Lube mentioned at 52:02. SuperLube contains PTFE which is teflon -- the most slippery substance you can find. It is a synthetic lubricant just like the MolyKote EM-10L originally used on these drives. MolyKote 30L is rare but still sold in some places. A friend shipped me some which I used in my replacement ejection gear video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ia513LCN7jY.html Would you mind posting a link to photos of your gearbox that has 3 screws to hold it in place? I would like to see that up close to better compare it to mine. You can use Google Photos or DropBox or CloudApp or Flickr to host your photos such that you can create a link for sharing. You mentioned your eject mechanism doesn't eject all the way even after lubricating that gearbox. There are only 4 possible explanations here: (1) you didn't fully get all the old grease cleaned out, and some residual frozen grease is therefore preventing the complete ejection, or (2) you used too much new grease when you lubricated your drive after cleaning, or (3) some teeth on your ejection gear may be broken and therefore not able to fully eject the disk, or (4) the ejection motor itself is going out and doesn't have the power to eject the disk (although I would say this is less likely than the first 3 possibilities). Regarding the Red and Yellow striped cables for floppy drives, the following post explains it best: bit.ly/2YbVFOC I should add that the following web page talks about converting a Red striped cable to Yellow by cutting wire 20 and possibly also wire 9: bit.ly/3qOBvXo

@kennewman126 3 года назад

@@JDW- WOW!! Thank you VERY much for the detailed reply!! I will get some photos of the gearbox and post a link to them as soon as I can. I might also make a short video of the eject motor not attached to the drive, so you can see how the cam does not go the full 360 degrees. I think maybe whatever is causing it not to go all the way around is the issue with the incomplete ejecting. fwiw, it's doubtful that I used too much lubricant; all of my gears have all their teeth...the typically broken gears have all been replaced with those from Christian; I feel like it's unlikely that all 6 of my eject motors are too "weak" to complete the eject process....so I'm still searching for possible reasons for the incomplete rotation. Thanks again for all the info! I'll have to check out the links to the story behind red vs. yellow stripe! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! :)

@kennewman126 3 года назад

@@JDW- Here's a link to some photos of my eject mechanisms: bit.ly/36cE1Pe Also, I didn't mean to imply that my eject mechanisms MOUNT with 3 screws....they mount with (I believe) the same 2 screws as the ones you show, but the gearbox COVER is attached with 3 screws...please see photos....also, I included a short video of the eject attempt....I think the cam ("baseball cap") on my mechanisms may be a bit different than yours, as well....I'd be curious to hear your take on the differences between yours and mine....THANKS!!! :)

@JDW- 3 года назад

@@kennewman126 Thank you for the video and photos, Ken! I watched your video 10 times and am still looking over your photos. I like the design of your older model motor much better because those 3 screws prevent broken plastic parts like I had on mine! Clearly, Omron decided to go cheap on later motor models by removing those screws! Even so, they moved the circuit board to a different position in order to protect that "cam" and switch mechanism as you can see on mine. The amount of greased used on your drive is still too much. I had that amount on mine originally and it caused lockups. I then used Kure 5-56 (WD-40) only for a while to see if that fixed the problem, and it largely did. It was only after that I cleaned out the entire gearbox and lubed it sparingly, and that was the final fix. Using the wrong lube or too much in the gearbox, especially without completely cleaning out the gearbox, can result in ejection problems. I must admit I do not have the R2D5-31 model gearbox like you do in order to test if there could be something else wrong. If after a complete cleaning and simple lube it still doesn't work, then I would suspect trouble with that tiny switch the cam hits as it rotates around. Your photo shows you have multiple gearbox units of seemingly the same model. Are you saying you swapped them all out and they all have the same problem? If so, it's clear there's too much grease on the other part of the drive, and perhaps it is the grease itself. Remember that I used silicone grease initially, and too much of it, and after cleaning with Kure 5-52, I applied SuperLube grease and oil instead, which I think make an important difference. Please let me know your thoughts in light of this.

@kennewman126 3 года назад

@@JDW- Thanks ever so much for taking the time to write back, James! You are a saint! Yes, I have multiple eject mechanisms like the one in the video, and they all act the same way. Sounds to me like the amount and type of lubricant is CRITICAL to the proper operation, while I would've thought that lube is lube, and as long as the gears don't encounter any friction, the mechanism will operate just fine. But it may be the case that the motor is not able to continue spinning just that slight bit more due to slight friction, such that it stops turning _as soon as_ the switch that's activated by the cam connects, as opposed to just a couple of millimeters further. Consequently, I'll have to try thoroughly cleaning all the gear assemblies with WD40 and then if that causes an improvement, I'll get the lubes that you suggest and mix them as you did to lube the undersides of the gears. On another note, I wonder if you know what to do with a drive that appears to be working fine, but does not read discs? I have a few that are like that.....by "appears to work fine" I mean that when the computer is first powered, the head assembly is returned to the zero position, but after that it doesn't move to read the disc. Any idea why that might be? Thanks again and again for all your insight!!

@richardmartel6811 3 года назад

Wow phenomenal video! I have a clicking 800k drive, the optical sensor seems to work as when i cover it the head moves forward, once uncovered head comes back but keeps trying to move further, thus the clicking. This possibly a bad cap issue? lots of 400k clicking solutions but seemingly none for the 800K. Love to hear your thoughts on my issue. Thanks!

@JDW- 3 года назад

Thank you for your kind words. The problem is almost definitely in the optical sensor. Only in rare cases is the sensor itself bad. Most likely it just needs a better cleaning than you have given it already. Sometimes compressed air can blow out the gunk, but other times you may need alcohol.

@richardmartel6811 3 года назад

@@JDW- Re-cleaned to your suggestion to no avail. The test I perform seems to indicate the sensor reads. Could you spare a moment to share your thoughts on this clip i made of it? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LluKTknvtZs.html

@JDW- 3 года назад

@@richardmartel6811 I apologize for my delayed reply, but I honestly do not know what is wrong with your drive. It was because of that I started a new 68kMLA thread a day ago and have been waiting for replies. So far, no one has given me any good ideas, but I recommend that you follow that thread and chime in with any new information that you feel might be helpful. 68kmla.org/forums/topic/62176-800k-floppy-drive-continuous-clicking-zero-track-problem/

@richardmartel6811 3 года назад

@@JDW- Wow thank you! You’ve gone above and beyond. I’ll check in with the thread!

@thealterlion7163 3 года назад

Would petroleum jelly be a good alternative to grease? I'm looking to clean and relubricate my 520c's 1.44mb floppy drive. Currently I'd be using 70% alcohol (I know it's not the best but I don't have 99%), q tips, wd40 and petroleum jelly

@JDW- 3 года назад

Although I've never used Vaseline in a floppy drive lube, it will work. An "acid-free" version of vaseline is what you want to be safe for plastics. One disadvantage versus lithium grease or SuperLube is that vaseline becomes a dripping liquid at 40°~60°C while the other greases remain intact. The SuperLube I recommend is similar to Molykote EM-30L in that it contains PTFE (Teflon), which is one of the slipperiest substances on earth -- more slippery than petroleum jelly, in other words. Even then, as shown in my video, I mixed SuperLube oil and grease to make the grease even thinner. Another disadvantage is that I believe Vaseline will be thicker overall, which means you must use it even more sparingly than the greases I recommend. If you use too much grease (any grease), the parts will not slide well. I also strongly recommend spraying WD-40 or KURE 5-56 on the parts first and put the drive in use for a few days so that can break down and remove any rust, oxidation, and other grime. Then clean it all off and apply grease and oil. Yes, you need oil too, even if you do choose to go with vaseline as your grease. All said, what you see in my video and what you read in my text description is the absolute best approach. So if you skip all that and just use vaseline-only and find the drive isn't very smooth in operation, then you know you should redo the job in the same manner I did. I say this not only because I found success with my method but also because I did a lot of research on this subject prior to making my video too. I hope this helps!

@thealterlion7163 3 года назад

Thanks a lot for the detailed answer! I know this solution is far from ideal, but I'm just looking for a makeshift solution that will make it work on the short term, as after I reinstall system 7.5.5 and get the internet working I can get all my files that way. If it will work for a short time with only WD40, I'll only do that, to avoid putting vaseline and risking anything. So if I were to fix it for the long term, ideally I'd have to remove the original grease, apply wd40, use it normally for a few days and then apply grease with oil, following your guide? Just to make sure I understood correctly.

@JDW- 3 года назад

Correct. Clean everything off with alcohol, they spray your WD-40 ONLY and use that for a few days or a week, then clean that off with alcohol and apply grease and oil in the places shown in my video. Some places require oil because grease would be too thick there. And always remember that even if you use SuperLube grease with PTFE. If you apply too much, the end result can be as bad as when you had the old decades-old grease on there. Use grease sparingly.

@thealterlion7163 3 года назад

@@JDW- thanks a lot again. I think I'm now ready for the cleaning. The only thing that left me at doubt was, do I clean the decades old grease at the beggining, before using WD 40, or do I clean it after the week has passed when it gets replaced?

@JDW- 3 года назад

No. Clean off all the old grease and oil with alcohol, let it dry, then spray your WD-40. But don’t get it on the heads, of course.

@jamesfatula5824 2 года назад

if caps are too tall and having clearance problem a solution is mount caps at 90 degree it works

@JDW- 2 года назад

You are specifically talking about 7:13 in my video. And while I agree that you can lay down a tall cap on its side, you need to make sure it's not so tall it protrudes past the edge of the circuit board. In other words, whether mounting the replacement upright or on its side, you still need to verify how much clearance you have available and then choose the height of the replacement cap accordingly.

@jamesfatula5824 2 года назад

@@JDW- so it doesnt interfere with floppy disk insertion and ejection i looked at mine there are plenty of spaces on pcb board to lay down 90 degrees

@JamesWages1 2 года назад

@@jamesfatula5824 In that case, you may be able to go with a dipped tantalum version capacitor instead in order to avoid having to swap it out again in the future. So long as the tantalum capacitor's voltage rating is twice the working voltage, it will be within manufacturer's voltage derating guidelines. You would just need to take note of the capacitor's width and height to ensure it will fit perfectly while on its side.

@8bitwidgets 4 года назад

Awesome video! I just got an SE and it's doing this varying speed "clicking" and failing to see the disk. I hear this might be an easy fix, but i now am thinking seriously about doing the recap as well or rather.. taking it to my local repair guy to do the caps.. :)

@JDW- 4 года назад

Thank you for your comment. You definitely want to follow my video and check inside that gearbox to see if any of the gears are broken or partially broken. I put a Mauser Cart in the text description under my video so you can buy all the required capacitors to do the job yourself. You would probably save some money that way. I have Amazon links there too, if you don’t have any of the required soldering tools.

@8bitwidgets 4 года назад

@@JDW- any advise / videos out there regarding the "tooth" that catches the floppy disk if it's worn down? i imagine that's likely what's up.. just over the years of clicking to catch the floppy the "tooth" is worn down and doesn't catch anymore. I just got my star-hex tool so i can open it up. I also got 4mb of ram for it.. i've heard mixed feedback that removing a resistor is needed for this upgrade to work.

@JDW- 4 года назад

Caleb, my video shows pretty much every part of the 800K floppy drive. Would you mind finding a timestamp that shows the exact “tooth“ that you’re talking about? Thanks.

@8bitwidgets 4 года назад

@@JDW- ok so at 32:55 that small silver circular bump between the black backwards C.. when i pop a disk in, i hear a varying speed "tick tick tick tick" which feels like that circular bump is not catching any of my disks. the motor feels strong as it tries.. for a few seconds.. it also ejects decently.. maybe not like new but i'm sure with a good cleaning / lubing would be good. I'll make a video. I just got my tool to open it up.

@JDW- 4 года назад

@@8bitwidgets You seem to be talking about the small, round, metal gizmo on the circular spindle, which I have marked in red in this photo: share.getcloudapp.com/lluJEOqg That part is is more than just a "bump" and would not wear down over time. Are you sure it's not "click of death" head movement you are hearing? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Click_of_death