I added Magic Glos™ just on the halo, placing with a toothpick to create a highlighted effect. You don't need an edge to hold it in place since it will hold a bead on it's own.
I really like this product. But unfortunately it got hard in the bottle. not fully hard like cured, but hard enough to not come out anymore. It never got in contact with uv light and was always in a drawer. Its a shame, since its very expensive. 99% of the bottle wasted after only 1 year.
Hi! I love this product, but am wondering if it is normal for the very top surface to be a little sticky to the touch after curing? Do you wipe this away with anything?
Hi Lisa - it's good to see you replying personally to comments here. I can't find this information anywhere -- how do I clean up excess resin *before* it cures? I was trying to squeeze a small amount in a tight spot between rhinestones along the inside edge of a bezel, and because the nozzle is somewhat large, some of the resin overflowed over the wall, onto the bezel. Before I found your tip about wiping excess resin with a wet paper towel or baby wipe, I was using a dry paper towel. I then got some of the resin on my fingers, and as a result, I unfortunately was handling the bezel with my sticky fingers. Now there is a sticky sheen on the bezel (even after curing) and it does not come off with soapy water or acetone (which I don't want to use because it's also removing the paint on the bezel). Other than just scraping off the excess, what is the chemical I should use for cleanup? For example, if I wanted to soak the bezel in something (like acetone) and start over, instead of trying to scrape it out?
4 years ago. @LisaPavelka did not even bother to answer this one, a long query that a viewer took a time to bother with. It's not as if there are thousands of comments here. Poor!
Hi, I am a big fan and have your books. I have been using your magic glass and had very little problem. Now my resin didn’t cure and does not stay flat. Surface looks like it is greasy I was told if the. Resin is old that would happen. I need a some help asap please. Thanks a million
Dear Lisa, Recently I have problems with resin that does not cure and stay sticky. Could you please help me? I also have problem cleaning my brush. I use your resin however I tried at her and Have same problem
Hello!(: really interested in this product, I was wondering if its able to be used of different molds or if it's just for these kind of pendants? I'm kinda new to this so I'm not sure if I'm calling them all right or if they are the same😅😅
I'm extremely intetested in buying this, just wondering if its for dome only or is there a limit on how thick(3d) you can make it? I want to place some 3d pieces in resin and am tired of the wait you get w regular resin. I'm impatient n love the idea of uv curing.
You can go as deep as you want when there are sidewalls or a frame setting that holds it in. You don't have to pour to a domed finish inside of a setting. You can add enough to just self-level to the top edge for a flat, lens-like finish. Slightly under filling will create a slight concave effect.
@@LisaPavelka I'm sorry but that's an utter lie. I've tried to cure various thicknesses of your Magic-Glos UV resin on numerous types of surfaces and nothing works - not under your own UV light with your name on it, under super-strong grow lights (which I purcased in hopes of it actually working with this expensive resin), a UV black light, the SUN. I've followed tutorials by RU-vidrs who push your resin. Nothing works. At best, it's somewhat firm but sticky. Usually, though, I can cure it for hours on end and the stuff still moves as if I'd just poured it. Again - it can be a paper thin layer or 1/2 inch thick.
It can be sanded and buffed to smooth a scratched or uneven surface. When completely flat again, adding and curing another layer will bring it back to crystal clear!
If the bubbles or on (or near the surface Tammy) a forced flame will pop these instantly (just run the flame over the surface quickly - for one second). Bubbles that are below the surface or still forming underneath need time to rise to the top or they can be trapped in during curing or form on the surface during this stage.
You can buy a block of inexpensive polymer clay for around two dollars and use it over and over (indefinitely) at any craft store (less if it is on sale). Also, poster tack can be used in place of polymer clay. I'd also consider modeling clay if you have some.
Not unless it gets continued exposure to UV light. Too long in either in the sun or under the UV lamp can cause yellowing. #magicglos will get rock hard on top in 5 - 10 minutes under long-wave UV light, but can remain jelly-soft in the underlying layer, but this will harden on its own, outside of UV light, after the initial 5 - 10 minutes uses of curing. I just wouldn't use it on anything that will get continuous UV exposure. I have pieces dating back over a decade from my first batches that remain crystal clear.
