Magnets and 3D Prints Part 2 

I really like the esthetic of laser engraved 3d prints in your video, makes them look way more professional

The idea of using magnets to hold down the 3D print is insanely good! Great video, mate! Can't wait to see what's coming next :)

Question is: Did an unseen force compel me to watch this informative video about magnets? 🤔😂

80 seconds in and I’m ready to start buying stuff. Where are your affiliate links? C’mon man, monetize while saving me the trouble of searching…it’s win-win!

Its a great contriubution to the 3D printer Community. Thanks for publish your great work. please keepit up. hats off to your level of work and detailed analysis.

This video is an incredible contribution to the 3d printing community. Thank you for sharing hours of your hard earned knowledge with the world!

Honestly, im happy this wound up in my recommended, just got a new printer w/ magnetic bed and after printing the mandatory benchy I was going to try and use magnets in a print. Good thing I know if I somehow mess up the bed's magnetic array is can be restored to a working order.

Awesome video with lots of very good information. Underrated channel!

Outstanding research! You have provided very valuable information. Thank you for all the effort you put into this.

Good point about the magnetic bed interference. I converted to glass 4 years ago and had removed the magnetic sheet from the bed heater plate. Magnet inserts were no problem but I recently got a PEI bed plate and installed a new magnetic sheet. I'll keep that magnetic interference in mind.

Useful information in a nicely produced video? You earned a sub! Having a default magnet orientation for projects is so smart!

Great research, thank you for documenting and sharing your work!

this is truly a remarkable study, thank you so much for sharing!

These are some amazing investigation, I really appreciate you putting out the time to making these interesting videos exploring the potential capabilities of what we can make with our 3D Printers.

Phenomenal video! You guys deserve more subscribers!!

I have prints with 4 circular magnets (10 x 5mm) arranged in a square with alternating polarities (matching polarities across from each other). I don’t know which polarities are facing up, but they always match up when used with matching magnetic prints.

Yes I had the same corner lifts. No magnets.always the one closest to the doors first. Your control must include wind draft

What a great idea about the warping!!!

This video was worth it for the simple pointing out of use of titanium and non magnetic reverse action tweezers. The latter of which I will purchase post haste!

For anyone tweezer-hunting, please note that there are reverse-action tweezers that are magnetic, and ones that aren’t (like the ceramic ones shown). The material is what’s relevant for this application, not the action (although reverse-action tweezers are my favourite too. Just don’t want someone getting reverse-action ones only to find they’ve bought ones that make magnet work harder rather than easier. Hope this helps

I got served this video without seeing the first part so you might not want to assume that everyone saw your first video and include a link to it in the description, as well as mention it in the video itself.

Very interesting and informative channel, subscribed. Keep up the informative videos, thank you.

This is amazing :) I would have never thought to use magnets as adhesives! I've done alot of magnet inlays inside of prints batches of 20 magnets and never looked this far at it! These tools with polarity checks would be a life saver! Another little trick I've used if you don't have them check the polarity one time on the magnets and keep them in a stack when you go to feed them into the print use the stack itself to place the magnet by shearing it off! That will always ensure your placing to the correct polarity :)

It never occurred to me the print bed might repel my magnets. Another way of doing the north/south thing is to glue a small magnet to the end of a stick (think chopstick), then one facing the other way to another stick, and color code the sticks. Then you can pick up the magnet with the appropriate stick and put it in the hole at the right time. Complexify the tool as desired. It makes it easy in smaller builds because you don't have to label things in advance, the labels don't rub off, etc.

This is great! There's something satisfying about that manual operated magnetometer. The only minor thing I have to offer on feedback is that the magnetic hold-down part should be a sub-part of the part you want to attach it to, since that will cause the slicer to better integrate the brims together. It's a small difference but I've been burned by lifted corners enough to figure that out. The idea of the magnetic hold-down itself is really good and I think I'll go and model some for the magnets I keep on hand now.

This is a COOL video on many levels.

Very good points. I've been subscribed since your last video. Glad I did! I never new that's what it's called when magnets have lines of polarity like that. I think that is how rubber magnet sheets work as well.

Great video! I learned a lot!

My guess is that your prints are high infill to solid so 90 degree corners are going to want to pull up no matter what. You need to make sure you are cleaning your bed extra carefully and using as good of bed adhesive as you can get your hands on. If you are using the cool bed, Go to a different style bed and up your temps to 60° c for the bed.

Have you tried printing the piece without adding magnets? Just to exclude other factors, like warping caused by the auxiliary fan in the left side of the bambu

That is realy good stuff. Thank You.

Fascinating, thank you

Well done. Good vid.

Great video!

very cool project!

You've got some style. I want a laser engraver now too

Apply liquid glue. Printing with a brim is my last resort…I can remove glue with running water but a brim can take some work. Bambu Labs liquid glue works fine; Layerneer works even better and has a much better applicator too.

Corner lifting was one of my most annoying errors to solve. After some studies I found out that it had something to do with the way I was trying to design the models itself. So for me it was basically a new "rule" when modelling parts for FDM printing - I had to make shorter pieces. The explanation (not very well detailed, sorry, but I guess with this little info you can find way more helpful info online) is that the warping happens due to the length of continuous extrusion on a given side of the print. Even with a controlled temperature chamber, a long single extrusion (such as a wall of the long side of the part) will create such an enormous tension that the adhesive will simply not be able to hold it down. Plastic contracts when printing - heating + cooling (I don't know which one you are using - ABS is the worst) but every material has a coefficient of expansion/contraction. This force is exponentially higher with a longer continuous extrusion on a given wall. Easiest solution - print shorter files (and then join then together) Slightly harder solution - take this into consideration when modelling the file and try to design it in a way that would "break" continuous extrusion (the same way we all design parts with "overhangs are evil" mindset for example)

Fascinating

Wonderful content, well presented👌. Glad to have found a sustainability focused channel. Look forward to more interesting content, to enable use of technology for a sustainable future.❤👍

The part pulling off the bed seems to happen on the left side of prints on Bambu printers. Turn aux fan to OFF.

Your research is very interesting! Valuble info… i can imagine a lot of this information can be used (partly) print in place motor designs? 😮 Anyways, love your video format, calm, informative, cool aesthetic! Ngl, there was a very click baity video right above yours in my feed and I clicked that and went back to come to your video and stayed…

You could simplify that magnet detector. It only needs one axis for polarity testing right? This design seems like it’s for much more delicate detection (maybe not in its 3d printed for though)

Great video! What laser are you using for the text engravings ? Those look sweet !

Nice!

Super interesting and informative video. I wonder if you can make an adapter for the print head to hold onto the halbach array and write gcode to re-magnetize the bed in a more controlled fashion.

The kit for the alternating polarity stack, ala pseudo-Halbach* array stack, to remagnetize/strengthen print bed could be it's own video or short. *As noted in the write-up it's not a true Halbach array

Great video!! Was that a xtool F1 laser etching the print?

Great video production! maybe run your voice audio through AI post processing

This is not an Halbach array. Just a normal alternating polarization that already helps a lot. If it were one, you wouldn't be able to demagnetize it with your magnets and would have serious issues to get your magnets of the plate. The Halbach array is a very specific *forced* arrangement of magnets, that basically squeezes the magnetic field lines to one side. The net effect is a very asymmetric magnetic field having a lot of power in one area while weak on the opposite side.

pretty cooooooooooool

What laser etching machine do you use to print the text on your 3d prints?

So does exact polarity really matter that much? What I mean is, are there applications where you need to know N and S as opposed to like A and B? (Still keeping track of the polarity in the second situation relative to other magnets, but not sure which is actually north and south.)

Do you have an stl for the magnet labeling tool? I checked your site and don't see it :(

Will adding iron/sheet sheets on bed below build plate help?

what kinda laser machine do you have?

What is the laser u used to engraved?

what was the laser engraver you have used ?

just dont know how do you manage to make it not lose strength when heated?

What kind of laser are you using to engrave?

Which engraver did you use?

What laser are you using?

I couldn’t find any of the files. Have u made them available?

Base support 1cm can solve it

Technically no Bambu Lab printer has a temperature controlled chamber. Only QIDI X-max and Q1 Pro. The Bambu Labs only retain heat so they get somewhat warm (45 °C at most, usually), but cannot control it.

Is the voice of this video machine generated?

Great way to erase you atm cards😂

Good video, but I’d prefer to see a face every now and the speaking so that I sure it isn’t AI. No offensive if that truly in your voice, but confirmation would be nice.