Want to make sure you definitely get all the air out 🤔 A easy and simple trick . When pushing the oil slowly into the caliper use a ' hexbug nano ' ( kids toy ) to vibrate out any air trapped..fix it on with a elastic band . Then start slowly pushing in fluid about 5ml. Then put it on the line and push through 10>15ml . Leave the nano vibrating the whole time and for a good minute , then push trough another 10>15 ml. You won't need to pull fluid back through. Been doing this on Hope , shimano and maguras for a good while now .
Bought my first ever Magura brakes today, model MT5E for my Super73 ZX and followed this guide to a tee and it works, much better brake feel after this.
This method works! I struggled with Magura’s single syringe bleed kit, but once I followed this method I got a perfect bleed on my MT Trail Sport brakes. Thanks for putting out this content and for making fantastic brakes.
Why I hate all brake bleeding video is they always use front brake as example! While the hardest one is the rear brake especially with internal routing. A lot of air bubble get trapped especially the kink cable looped under the bottom bracket. I bleed countless time with the bike in a normal horizontal position. The result all the same. Spongy brake lever for the rear. The tips is to really put the bike in wheelie position (you need bike stand with clamp) when bleeding the brake, the lever must be way way higher than the caliper. After bleeding, try to use cable tie to tie the brake for few hours. Afterward, bleed only the lever (refer to Magura quick bleeding video) to remove the final bits of air...finally I got a solid firm lever on my rear brake :-)
Thanks a lot for your comment! We would agree that the rear brake tends to be more difficult to bleed due to the points you've mentioned. However, we note in the manual as well as in this video that the caliper should be located vertically underneath the master and any bends in the hose should be avoided as best as possible during bleeding. Either by tilting the whole bike or by removing the caliper from the frame. But thanks a lot for your feedback! Maybe we will have to go more in depth in the next video on bleeding the rear brake and how to position the caliper. One more thing to keep in mind during bleeding , is that the caliper itself has to be oriented vertically. If it's bled in a "flat" position (as it often is when mounted on a bike), air can not leave the caliper. Cheers! MAGURA Social Media Team
I'd like to second this feedback. I own a small business fixing bikes. I've found that Magura brakes are the hardest to service by FAR. I've talked to mechanics at several other shops in my area and they all feel the same way. Tutorial videos that make this process seem way easier than it actually is don't help anyone. Please make a new video and show the WORST CASE SCENARIO. IR hoses, rear brake, no shop stand. THAT'S the video people are coming here to see.
@@bartscully9175 No bike stand is a little much if you're working on your bike you should have a proper work stand and if you dont take it to a shop the work is out of your league.
@@MAGURAPassionPeople So you guys have had a year to make a proper video for a rear brake bleed with an internal routed cables, your well paying customers deserve a better video
@@chrismoulds7988 I disagree on that. While a work stand is undeniably helpful almost all bicycle maintenance can be done without one. I've put together a bike at home from a frame set, installing all the components myself, without needing one. My point of view is that if a bicycle component cannot be maintained by someone who does not have a full size repair stand then it's a bad design. Well designed bicycle components should be maintainable by the owner in their home with a minimum of specialised tools.
If you have 6 hands, 3 hours and a dedicated shop space, Magura brakes and bleed procedure should work for you. If you have 2 hands, 10 mins, and a work space you’d like to keep clean, then go with Shimano XT and do the gravity method.
Not sure what the gravity method is, but it took me (in chill-mode) one hour and own two hands to bleed both MT-5 brakes. They work perfect now. However, without a bike stand it would be much more tricky.
I feel maguras brake lines are too flexible.hence the rear always feels more spungy .I replaced them with cheap braided lines and they are both perfect now..feel even more powerful.
Yes! Plus internal routing makes it harder. I think the system at the master cylinder might let air get in when sucking down the oil with the syringe mounted to the caliper if you do it too fast. Bleeding takes longer compared to other brakes I had but it's worth it.
I just bled both front and rear MT trails and I do things a little differently based on tips and past experience. Remove the caliper and line from the bike and position the bike in a bike stand so that the caliper and line are hanging straight down from the lever. Like dogdaysunrise1970 said, this means the lever needs to be very high for the rear brake. Flick the lever in between syringe pushes and also tap the caliper with the rubber handle of some pliers or something. You want to free any air bubbles that may be stuck. When you push the syringe the banjo on the caliper should be pointing up (to push all the air out), when you pull the syringe you should face the bleed screw up (to suck all the air out). This should get your brakes firm enough that you can adjust the levers in as much as you want and not hit the grips in full stop mode. I have small hands, so need to keep them pretty close.)
I really wonder why Magura does not use a traditional bleed screw on the caliper. That whole "raise the caliper and quickly close the hole while fluid goes all over the caliper" part could be avoided by a simple open/close valve. Like Shimano, Hope and many other brakes. On "other brands" you literally 90 degree open that screw, pump in the liquid, close it and you are done. Any particular reason for this?
Because they are dumb, only reason I can see, had to buy a stahlbus quick bleed screw to finaly be able to bleed properly on my surron. That's so fucking dumb.
Alright, but what are you supposed to do if you've got internal brake hose routing so cannot lift the calliper up to anywhere near the level of the lever? The only thing I can think of is rotating the entire bike nearly 90 degrees so that the calliper and lever are almost at the same level, but to do that comfortably I'd need a workshop grade repair stand with rotating clamp and I don't have anything like that.
Getting the caliper to the same height as the master when removing the syringe won't "make or break" your bleed - you will most likely only loose a bit more oil in the progress. It would still be good to get it as close as possible by tilting the bike though.
@@MAGURAPassionPeople "One more thing to keep in mind during bleeding , is that the caliper itself has to be oriented vertically. If it's bled in a "flat" position (as it often is when mounted on a bike), air can not leave the caliper." Oh look, you stated it yourself
Another day, another successful bleed thanks to these video instructions! The requirement to position the caliper above the master cylinder when closing the bleed screw is essential. Other tutorials, e.g. Park Tools', omit it. Their end result is not as good as if you'd follow this, Magura's own official video. You can even see in other videos how oil escapes the caliper while a person is trying to quickly seal the hole. For the rear brake, this always means rotating the frame in the repair stand (especially with internal cable routing when you cannot loosen the hose from the frame). For the front brake, it always means cutting the zip ties and bringing the caliper body up, or rotating the frame towards even crazier angle in the repair stand. Unfortunate but unavoidable with this design.
@@rickbullotta2036 Yes, that case is tough. I have one such frame. In this case, rotating the whole frame in the repair stand counterclockwise will bring the rear caliper into the about level position. After that, there is at least a couple of centimeters of wiggle room for the unthreaded caliper and the small section of the brake hose protruding out from the chainstay. So it is still possible to get the master cylinder and the caliper at the same level before closing the bleed port.
Hang on, if the brake lever bleeding hole is closed, how does the oil level change depending on whether you hold the caliper above or below the brake lever? Is gravity alone strong enough to compress the mineral oil?
Might be that the expansion baffle in the master is taking in/expelling fluid. What's it called? It's basically a plastic bag. For handling thermal expansion of fluid when the brakes get hot. Just speculating here😅
Thank you very much for this video. Somehow I didn't know that the port that you close should always be on top. For a rear brake it can be an especially tricky procedure if one don't have a proper bike stand. Anyway, given fair prices and top-tier performance, there's only one thing I can say.. MT-5's for life
Both of the only two dealers / distributors in my capital city in Australia seem to have closed down, and that has not been corrected on the Magura website.
An advice: clean the pistons and lube their outside surface with oil before introducing the in the callipers. No point in introducing dirt in the system. Also very good for the seals.
Good advice, although we would actually recommend to simply clean the outsides of the pistons with a compatible cleaner. Lube them only if necessary - otherwise dirt is attracted to the oil which will result in a dirty system and potentially sticky pistons. Cheers! MAGURA Social Media Team
It is in reverse to all of the other videos I have seen. So you do not need a reservoir at all? So I need to cut all of my cable ties to bleed my brakes?
What do you mean you don't need a reservoir? Why do you need to cut all your cable ties? Feel free to contact us on Facebook or Instagram for further help.
As the fluid is pretty expensive and utilization is complicated, can you reuse the fluid after procedure if its not discolored? The fluid is hydrophobic so it cannot spoil as I understand.
Very good video Magura. But this method of placing the brake caliper above the brake lever to prevent fluid loss from the caliper is only valid if you are on the front brake. In my case, on my rear brake ( flatmount ) it is not possible to remove the caliper to raise it above the brake lever ( the wiring is internal ) and avoid the loss of brake fluid and the entry of air into the system. Any tricks for these cases, when I remove the syringe from the brake caliper, I lose a lot of brake fluid. Thanks
@@callyourhits3963 Hi, do you think I haven't tried it, if I do as you say, the bleed hole in the flatmount caliper is downwards ;) and you lose brake fluid.
This process can be a nightmare But I’m also dumb :( Make sure both bleed ports are closed before you test your brakes . I kept hitting the brake and wondering why I had no pressure duhh. Anyways heres what worked best for me This video definitely makes it look a lot easier than it can be. Personally I never cut the cable and weaved it through the bike, so the cable is very long and twisted. This method works easier if you have a short cable obviously. In my case I would probably just get air trapped in the middle trying to send it back and forth. What worked for me is keeping the brake where it is and sending the oil through from the bottom brake port to the top and letting it fill up the other syringe, slow at first and then quick thrusts to get the air bubbles out. Start with a little oil in the top syringe (the one with a hole at the 30 mark) place that on the top brake (ebt) then slowly send the liquid from the bottom up. Careful not to get it past 30 or it will shoot out. Then if the oil was good I would put it back in the bottle and do the process over again. You can also fill that top syringe with new oil and slowly pull it from the bottom. I would get most of my air bubbles pulling back through. Hope this helps and good luck.
If the bite point moves outwards when pumping the brake, there is still air in the system. In that case the brake will be need to be bled again thoroughly until all air has been removed.
Why does my local bike shop / LBS want to replace with another brand (eg Shimano?) of brake when bleeding and refilling my current Magura brakes which have stopped working? Only one Magura lever might be damaged ie might need replacing, but the two Magura brakes seem good to use after refilling. Is Magura more expensive than other brands? Does the LBS not have the equipment and materials to fix Magura? Maybe is it because both of the only two dealers / distributors in my capital city in Australia seem to have closed down, and that has not been corrected on the Magura website, and Magura parts etc are now not available anywhere in Australia?
At what point do the brake reservoirs actually get refilled with new fluid? It's all so seamless I honestly can't tell as someone who has never done this procedure.
I tried the procedure at 2:38. After I fully actuated the brake lever several times ( more than 7 times ), I found that the oil will be transfer from the cylinder-side-syringe into the syringe at calliper side with "massive" air bubbles. But at this moment, the cylinder-side-syringe is still containing with certain oil, not empty. The air still come out even after repeating step 2:15 several times. I just can't figure out where are these air bubbles comes from. Any ideas would be appreciate.
It's totally possible: just make sure to uninstall the rear caliper from the frame so it can hang vertically, and make sure to orient the bike (if necessary in a bike stand) to avoid any low spots in the hose that may trap air bubbles.
I just bought some breaks for the first time and have never fitted them before do I have to bleed the breaks straight out of the box or do they come ready bled
Tenho um magura raceline desde 2017, nunca tinha tido problemas nas manutenções que faço. Fiz com esse método de colocar pressão com a seringa e agora está vazando líquido nas manetes. Não recomendo.
Such an issue should not occur if the bleed process was done correctly and if a previous issue with the brake can be ruled out. Feel free to send us a message on Facebook or Instagram if you need any assistance.
How does oil leak from the caliper if the EBT screw on the lever is tightened, surely that creates a vacuum, just like holding your finger over the end of a straw?
That's true, and it does decrease the flow of oil quite a bit (...if you've ever missed this step, you'll know), but the oil is still able to overcome this resistance even with the EBT screw closed.
Thanks for your comment! How exactly do you mean that? You can make sure that the master and EBT-screw are at the highest point and that the master is rotated parallel to the ground during the bleeding process - Once the process is done and everything is closed, you can mount everything in an ergonomic way.
Can you please make your content inclusive and accessible to everyone by formatting the auto captioning into closed captioning please? it is very hard to enjoy your content relying on only the auto captioning sadly (I'm Profoundly Deaf)
Hello, thanks a lot for your feedback! We will certainly check how we can improve the accessibility of our videos! in the meantime, the captions do seem to work on our end? Or am I misunderstanding you?
@@MAGURAPassionPeople what is working is the auto captioning, which is much harder to follow as this mean we have to focus on the text alone and not be able to watch it properly. If you play it without sound and have auto captioning on, you'll see it is very hard to follow it. if you click on Park Tools video, and turn on the captioning, you'll see it easier to follow, this is VERY useful as mechanics around the world may not have sound avaliable in their work computer and having closed captioning make it easier to follow it; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UkZxPIZ1ngY.html
My MT7 HC3 lever blade lost pressure, I've tried bleeding it multiple times but it won't pump back up. I'm not noticing any fluid leaks from the system. I've bled these brakes before without issue - I'm not sure why it's having an issue now? When sucking the fluid back to the caliper syringe it's an endless stream of air bubbles.
Amazing. I watched several videso about bleeding magura mts and the first one said the torx screws should be tightened to max. 2.5nm. The Parktools video even says 4nm max! Then the magura videos says 0.5nm max. Those are worrying jumps.
Thanks for your question! There is no O-Ring used on the caliper bleed screw! Only on the banjo connection, one O-ring per side is needed in the intended recess of the banjo connector.
After the bleeding getting the damn calipers (MT Thirty 4 piston) centered so it doesn't drag is next to impossible. I don't know if there is too much oil in system and pistons don't retract enough or what. With Shimano I always managed ok, but with this Magura I've been struggling for hours.
The space between the pads needs to be quite small on brakes like our 4 piston brakes due to the high leverage (which gives them their high power). More space between the pads just means more free travel at the lever, which is amplified on a brake with high leverage. This can indeed make it difficult to perfectly align the brake caliper. Here are some tips: - Align the caliper by eye, ignore rubbing pads at first. You can use the slits though which the rotor travels as a point of reference. Aligning the caliper in order to get the pads rub-free often results in a caliper that isn't actually parallel to the rotor, making a noise-free brake pretty much impossible. Once the caliper is centered, you can push any pads that are still rubbing away. Very slight "residual-rubbing" often disappears within a few minutes of riding. - Check whether all pistons are moving freely with the pads removed. If one or more pistons aren't moving freely, you can mobilize them. - An overfilled system will make the space even smaller and could damage the system. You can avoid this by using the yellow bleed blocks during bleeding. If you can't seem to fix this or have any questions, feel free to send us a message on Facebook or Instagram!
We highly recommend to use our brakes only with MAGURA Original Rotors. Our rotors are 2 mm thick - this is 0.2mm more than SRAM rotors and this can effect the performance heavily. Our 5 years leak proof warranty is also only valid for complete MAGURA brake systems.
@@mauro2223 Generally speaking, all of our rotors will work with all of our MT disc brakes. We have summed up the differences between the different models here: www.magura.com/en/components/customize/setup-guide/ Feel free to send us a message on Facebook or Instagram if you have any further questions regarding your rotors!
Why is it not lowered down when injecting fluid from the caliper side so that the lever is at the top and the caliper is at the bottom? It's probably better for air bubbles and gravity to have the hydraulic hose vertical, with the caliper at the bottom and the lever at the top.🤷🏻
You're 100% correct, that's what we recommend for an optimal bleed. In the video we've raised the caliper to master/bar height for visual purposes to show the fluid movement.
"Always use a torque wrench", and then uses a regular T25 Torx wrench. Ha. Sorry, had to laugh at that. Question: with many modern bikes with internal cable routing, it's not possible to raise the rear caliper. Any suggestions in lieu of that option?
Classic "do as we say, not as we do" moment! 😅 Yes, the solution is to tilt the bike into a more favorable position if possible/necessary. Also don't forget to remove the caliper from the mount while bleeding so it can hang vertically - otherwise air can't escape it. It's also not necessary to do the full bleed procedure every time - normally that's only necessary when air is trapped in lower parts of the system, which can happen when opening the banjo bolt for example. If you suspect that the air is only located at the top, our fast bleed procedure is a good option: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RtqwQB8wtYQ.html
Hey, I have mt7 brakes. I bled them last week and it seems that oil is leaking from the bleed screw at the caliper. Does this screw need an o-ring? My caliper bled screw does not have any o-ring, but it is hard to see in this video if it requires one when the technician is reinstalling that last screw. Thanks!
Hello, thanks a lot for your question! The bleed screw on the caliper does not need an o-ring and the use of one isn't intended. Only the banjo connection needs one on each side.
your brakes are probably leaking because you over torqued the bleed screw (does you torque wrench go down to 0.5 Nm? Neither do the ones in bike shops) and now you need a new brake lever. don't worry, changing to a different manufacturer with solve all your problems...
The one later used to tighten the sleeve nut connecting the hose to the master? That is a special bit by Wiha that we offer called adapter SW 8.0. You can alternatively use a crowfoot adapter for a regular style torque wrench, however make sure to keep in mind the changes in torque caused by the adapter.
@@MAGURAPassionPeople Yes, about the 8mm nut that has to be 4nm scewed into the master. So is this SW 8.0 adapter available to purchase from Wiha? because I can not find open ones like yours. The only ones I find are for whole 8mm nuts, which can not be used when there is tube :) I was thinking of Wera crowfoot that goes into 9by12 system of their own, but not sure how much the torque is changes
I’ve followed the steps exactly on my rear brake 5 times now, no air coming out & yet this method fails to work. I tried hanging my bike almost vertically to try & straighten the brake line. Any other tips?
@@leonfreestyl5853 I did! This video is for the older generation brakes although you can’t tell from the video. Magura told me to repeat the same process, but keep the brake lever on the bike horizontal & not at 15 degrees. This worked first time.
It's the exact same process. It may be necessary to rotate the bike to avoid high spots in the hose, and it's much more important to uninstall the caliper from the frame so it can hang vertically due to its installed position on the chainstay; but apart from that it's the exact same process.
Just for visual purposes of the video. The hose and caliper should of course be below the master during bleeding, without any high spots along the hose.
Same procedure, just make sure to angle the bike to avoid low spots in the hose and make sure to uninstall the caliper from the frame so it can hang vertically.
There's two kinds, the pro bleed kit and the mini service kit. Either one will work but I recommend getting the mini service kit since it's cheaper and comes with spare parts.
As the HS33 brakes use our Royal Blood mineral oil, you don't have regular oil change intervals as you would with DOT brakes. The oil only needs to be fully replaced when it's very contaminated. It's a different story if there is air in the system, giving you issues with the bite point. But if that's the case, you only need to bleed the system, not fully replace the oil. Hope that helps!
Hey anyone out there have MT 5 HC with storm HC 203 rotor upfront? My LBS had trouble with caliper rub on my rig with the 203 mm and stated I need a 200 mm to fit upfront .
We're sorry to hear that you're experiencing some issues with your MT5! Could you send us a message on Facebook or Instagram? We can help you there in more detail. If the caliper is sitting too low, it is most likely mounted on an incorrect adapter rather than requiring a smaller rotor.
3:32 so if you can't disassemble your caliper your screwed, can't bleed properly because no bleed screw and every time you loose oil and get air into the caliper, so smart.
@@MAGURAPassionPeople have your team heard about a lot of issues with plastic handles(for example on mt-5)? Will magura make stiff aluminium one? A lot of people have to change handles to shimano. Trend is called "shigura", you can check it on youtube. Your brakes have great performance, but are not durable at all. Please make something with it.
@@jeffryLebovsky The material Carbotecture allows us to save weight while keeping high strength and tight tolerances. Such a product would not be possible with aluminium. Carbotecture is a composite material made from hightech polymers and carbon-/ glassfibers, which offers significant advantages over the classical lightweight material aluminium: With identical tensile strength and fracture strength, Carbotecture is 50% lighter than aluminium. If you have any additional questions regarding our Carbotecture material or about an issue you had with one of our products, feel free to contact us on Facebook or Instagram!
@@MAGURAPassionPeople lightweight is good, but on the other hand you get spongy feel on the lever and it is much easier to brake handle. Maybe in some bicycle sports it doesn't matter, but in downhill, enduro, trials, street it is necessary to have stiff durable handles and solid feel on the lever. Don't get me wrong, i love your brakes(i have hs-33 and pair of mt-5), but this moment with handles makes people choose another manufacturers. Just read forums and reviews, the only disadvantage of your brakes everybody is speaking about is weak handles. We want magura to be absolute best brakes. Make a special solid handle for aggressive styles of riding. Don't let your customers to build frankenstein brake sets with another manufacturers handles.
@@jeffryLebovsky the mt5 doesn't have as good of a master cylinder, also that squish comes from a bad bleed, also the hc3 can be adjusted for a stronger bite point, aluminum isn't any better but most people have mediocre bleeds mixed with long levers creating a spongier feel
I literally tried everything to bleed my MT7 brakes, but nothing worked (first year was fine, since then they are impossible to bleed properly). I took the bike to 2 bike shops. The brakes were even worse, and I had to do another bleed at home. Brakes only work if lever position is far out and my finger barely reaches the lever. Let's be honest, these brakes might have good braking power when they work, but when they actually work?
This is asinine. Bikes have internal cables now and you can't just "take the caliper off the bike" like shown in the video. An alternate method is to forgo the upper syringe pusher and let the fluid drain out from the top syringe body as you secure the lower plug...but having to raise a caliper above the lever in any bleed system is dumb, not well thought out. The need to have a system that threads into the top bleed port (not just pushes in) so you can apply significant suction to the top or bleed-cup like Hope and Shimano.
How is the fluid able to enter the upper syringe with the plunger in place? Doesn't the air need to be displaced? And.....why do you not withdraw your other official video on bleeding which shows a much simpler procedure that leaves out a lots valuable things mentioned here? That's the one I just went by and made a big mess in the process!
We have a full bleeding procedure as shown in this video, or alternatively the possibility to do a quick bleed, if air is trapped only inside the upper part of the system (different video). As shown in this video, the plunger of the syringe has to be pulled over the hole (or removed) in the syringe, creating an open system. The other video shows a completely different procedure called the quick bleed procedure, where you bleed the brake only via the master, using the plunger of the syringe to create a point of lower pressure. That's a different procedure though. If you have any additional questions regarding the bleeding process, feel free to send us a message on Facebook or Instagram!
It works perfectly fine for internally routed setups. Depending on the routing, you may need to set up your bike in a bike stand to be able to tilt it.
I have these very same model, which I bought in 2019, there was no problem at until a week a go, I notice the rear brake was going until the bottom without pushing the brake pads, then yesterday I notice a leakage of Mineral Oil coming from the master level, exactly by where the lever blade pushes .... I need to know if this is normal and just a filling/bleeding will fix it?.. or is something abnormal... because I think, why would the mineral oil would flush out by the lever??? Weirddd!!!! Is there any tutorial about maintenance of the master level happens that before this happened past week I have been hearing a very annoying noise for when the lever is pushed in the master level, almost like something regarding the maintenance of the master level, but I haven't found any tutorial about disassemble of the master level only switch the lever in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aDfDebmqCLQ.html.. I need help, right now... thanks.
Hello, we're very sorry to hear that you're experiencing issues with your brake! If the brake is leaking at the master, bleeding it will definitely not fix it. We're unfortunately not able to fully diagnose something like that via the internet, but it's likely that the master would need to be replaced. Please contact your according bike shop to check for warranty claims and to discuss solutions with them. If necessary, they can get in touch with our service team to check how to proceed.
Such a nice, powerful brakes. And then you design such a crappy bleeding. Even sram is a smaller pain in butt (and I hate sram brakes). Why is that such a big issue to make a closing port like shimano has?
We're sorry to hear about your frustration! We find our bleeding process to be easy and straightforward, if you need any help, feel free to send us a message.
@MAGURAPassionPeople OK, I've done this procedure 4 times now and 4 fast bleedings, step by step but the rear brake won't feel on point as the front because of air that sits, most likely in the caliper. Internal routing that is rather common these days forces me and others to tilt the bike in the bike stand. And that's what I've done now, again and again. I've been taping the hose and the caliper, lifting the caliper, different angle to the bike and soo on but nothing helps soo you can't say it's the best and simplest way to bleed a rear brake. This is a BIG engineering fault, all you had to do is to keep it simple with a bleeding port/valve. Listen to the customers, we can't bleed de bloody brakes with this method! I was really happy when I bought the brakes but now it keeps me awake because of the stress, that a simple bleed can't be done. I've been bleeding Shimano, Brembo brakes on bikes, hydraulic clutches but this brake makes me and others feel incompetent. So please, make a retrofit that we can use!!!
Fo not buy Magura. They do not have warranty if boughtvsecond hand and levers are not repairable only replaceable and no parts sold (ask before you buy)
Shimano also doesn't give a warranty on second hand products. Just buy a new brake dumpass. Magura makes excellent brakes. (Way better and lighter than Chinese crap Shimano brakes)
I literally threw away my MT5s because there’s oil everywhere and I never want another one of these products in my garage again. I bleed my sram and shimano brakes no issue every year.
why does magura make basically decent brakes that are so absolutely horrible to work on? I mean, anyone praising magura obviously doesn't work in a bike shop. the terrible hose for the bleed that goes onto the terrible syringe is so inflexible that it pops off the assembly constantly. amateur to be certain. look at the other companies for better ways to do this and please LEARN FROM THEM!!!
Please note that the max. torque on the EBT screw is 0.5 Nm. Feel free to send us a message on Facebook or Instagram if you have any questions, or contact your respective dealership to inquire about warranty claims.
