Those housings are repairable, even if they have those bulging lumps of corrosion underneath the sleeve. There's a guy here in Australia, Bayside jetski repairs at Capalaba who repairs those with a thicker stainless steel wear ring and matches the impeller to suit aswell for around $600.He does a fantastic job....👍 I got mine done cause I had the same issue on my F-15x.
When my ecu was repaired by the same guy he mentioned the "clock" is always running on the ecu so disconnect the battery during storage . That is how it is ready to start by just pushing the start button w/o a on/off switch. The dead man just kills the ignition. The time on the ecu clock is what trips the knock sensor up, the way I understood it anyway. To make it easier to remove/install I set the battery up with studs rather than bolts for the terminals. Cut the head off a longer bolt, use two nuts. Then you have a "post" to attach the cables and then put another nut on.
Thanks for posting. I had the same problem with the swelling of the internal surface of the jet pump housing. I simply took a dremel with the sanding wheel and gently removed the high spots. Worked great. Water test is next.
Water test went well. Unfortunately, the solas prop did not improve the top speed as I had hoped. In fact I lost five miles an hour, I’m not happy about that. Any suggestions?
Anything aftermarket is a good or bad buy . Because the diameter of the housing was kept the same all you could change is pitch and blades which generally decreases performance. Bigger housing and impeller to suit is the safe and easy way to gain more power as long as your not throwing the engine under huge amounts of stress either at load up ( out the hole ) or over reving at WOT ( wide open throttle) which could put timing out. generally the best known in performance upgrades is the best way to go but just merely changing an impeller the same diameter is like changing your prop for the same prop just slightly different blade shape or pitch and then expecting a 5-10% increase anywhere in performance is lucky 🤣🤣🤣🤷🏽♂️
@@bohica0022 So my R-12x it is safe to say is effectively a stage 1 ski. When it was completely stock with the old pump and stock impeller I was hitting a solid 55mph according to the gauge on the ski. In my opinion that is impressive considering the pump was worn the hell out. the mods I have on my ski are custom aftermarket air intake, an oil catch can, new housing and new solas 17/29 impeller. All of those mods and honestly didn't give me much speed boost. My ski now does a solid 60mph, maybe 61, I have not clocked these numbers on a gps though. My suggestion is go ahead and spend the money on a new housing, it will make that solas prop kickass!
@@jcola9234 so you're thinking the cold air intake and some other mods might not be necessary? How about acceleration then vs now with mods? That counts for a lot to me and how I ride.. Also what could the problem be if the couplers seem like theyre not quite aligned. Do I need to replace the mid shaft bearing or maybe the rubber coupler itself? I saw something about a drive shaft bushing. Because this ski also has a water leak only while driving it on the water but not on the hose.. Wondering fi should pass on it.. turbo and manifold area is rusty otherwise its very clean and 100hrs. Starts right up. Goes full throttle. I didnt drive it though to comment on the noise. I noticed it more on the trailer..
@@mxracingunlimitedltd7784 my air intake I don't think is necessary. The only reason I made my own is cause I didn't want to pay a premium for genuine Honda air filters. With all my mods I have now the acceleration is definitely better I believe. If you hit the throttle and are not ready it'll basically snap your neck back lol. My ski gets water droplets inside through the through hull bearing too but it's not enough to be concerned about.
Just so you know, that plug that covers the water screen for the Colling system in the jet pump... it is not pressed in. it is actually screwed in and then STAKED to prevent it from backing out. you can take a pencil grinder and grind out the stake (be careful not to get to deep into the cap threads) then you can screw it out, clean out the port and screen then reassemble it. And to back up my info you can go into the Service manual and see it on page 399 (Propulsion chapter 14, page 24 under Jet Pump Installation, even has a picture of it off and in the guys hand)
Just ordered all my stuff to rebuild mine from JetSki international and the prices have gone up in just two years. I had to pay state tax but with a new impeller housing remanufactured impeller bearings and seals. It was 585 but you cannot beat the customer service at JetSki international. They are the best.
... and apparently the exhaust manifold fails/cracks. In my case (Hawaii), it was not due to winterization. Water is getting in the oil and I presume there is an internal crack. Haven't been able to get it out yet - gonna be a project to do that. But I did have the impeller housing warp on me over the "off season" (whale season: PWC are not allowed around my area) ... I was able to just hone it, then spot dremel it and so far that's holding
Not complaining . Trying to help your video making and I might make a few in the future. Plus we need all the PWC stuff for these keys we can get because I'm just getting into it and I'm fresh You need better quality audio or be careful on the higher volume levels. Thank you
I have a 3 seater 2005 Honda Aquatrax f12x turbo. Very agile and fun jetski....when it runs!!! I have used alot of friends jetskis of other brands and also have purchased my own Kawasaki 1500cc jetski(2013model) and nothing compares to the hull dynamics of our Honda ski and that is why I'm persisting with trying to fix it. I have the knock sensor problem and I fit a new knock sensor, problem still there. Then I installed a brand new ECU, same knock sensor problem. I've spent $2.5k having the head rebuilt on the engine and a bigger turbo fitted and still the knock sensor problem. I have installed new jet pump and solas impellor but still knock sensor problem. I will pull apart the old ECU and see if I can get it reprogrammed to avoid knock sensor. Of note I did rewire the fault code check plug to a switch and when starting up my jetski I would turn the switch off then on and leave it on and it would override the knock sensor fault by not allowing the ECU to recognise it but the problem with that method is it won't recognise any faults. It did allow me to use the jetski for another 3 years before I decided to tackle to problem and try to get it fixed. Now my jetski has been unusable for 2yrs while I'm trying to fix it. I have been told by several jetski mechanics that sometimes a full electrical wiring loom replacement fixes this problem as the loom and connectors corrode etc and a new loom has been the difference for this and many other faults so I will order a new loom during winter. Another thing for others to consider is a guy in Australia was getting his jet pump powder coated in layers of several different colours for about $60 and as it wore down through the different colours he would know to go and get it powder coated again.
@@Kevincole87 unfortunately I have not touched the jetski for over a year due to being in a car crash and then storms and neck deep flooding destroyed our holiday home and we are still to this day working on getting the holiday home usable again. It's going to be a while before I can even look at working on the jetski again. Unfortunately life is getting in the way.
the bulge is from the aluminum corroding against the stainless liner. thats from the prop sitting in the same spot for an extendended period of time, some kind of static electrical deal. i just know its been happens to any lined housing. to repair you can take a small grinder and gring the aluminum down from the outside, it makes a hole that relieves the pressure behind the sleeve. epoxy it after. i did my yamaha a bunch of times without any issues.
I used to have one and got rid of it for the same reasons. And don’t forget the turbo also. The waste gate valve goes bad too. Those ecu used to be around $300 for the ‘02. Now if you are lucky to find them.
Picked up 2006 AquaTrax f12. Feels like steering off slightly maybe 1/2" and kind of wonders some. Also at low throttle seems like maybe little rattle or slightly loud as these are mentioned to be very quiet
The negative pressure, suction from the impeller deforms that steel sleeve. The steel sleeve thickness is too thin to resist that reverse pressure. No permanent fix for that.
Upgrade the ECU with a new one and forget modding the old one. My 2002 Aquatrax Turbo had a Japan made ECU and they were only good for 250 hours. Got 430 hours on mine now.
I know I have not uploaded a video in a while. Trust me I will come out with an update video soon. Some of the questions here have inspired me to make a video about it and talk about my mods on my ski. I think it is safe to say that my ski is a stage 1 setup!! video will be coming soon!!
It's great thing when people share information like this! ...Do you recommend the turbo ski or non turbo? Can you tell me a decent price to pay for picking one of these up as a fixer upper... really liking idea of the turbo models but I've heard the turbo's have issues as well mainly with gates ...can the turbo's be swapped?
Can you please post a picture of the mentioned "tiny hole" on the ECM? I just want to know if mine was already done.. there are some epoxy patches... Thanks
The ARX1200 Jetpump housings are re-sleevable. Replaced the one on my 2007 with a Rebuilt from Jet Skis International. Even ordered it with a new Solas impeller. Ran me like $700 all said and done after mailing my core to them first. Only needed repaired because... sand damage. Lake Mead can be very silty somedays, especially up in Boulder Canyon were the Colorado river feeds it.
Getting out of reverse is difficult for me as well. I really don't have much advise to give other than when my reverse lever is up I will just pushing and pulling on it until it comes out of reverse and I am able to push the lever down all the way. On mine I did grease the components on the reverse bucket like the hinges and reverse bracket. It helps but wont last because those components are always in contact with the water.
your idle might be a little too fast. also there is a bushing that gets corrosion around it, it's the pivot bolt for the reverse bucket. if it's a little stiff to move then carefully tap it out with the same size socket and then I use sand paper to ream out or clean out the hole the bushing goes in. The bushing should spin freely after the bolt is tight.
I have an R-12X turbo that started to not accelerate and loose idle. It does not seem to limp at under 3000 rpm but rather seems to be started of fuel on rev-ing above idle. The service manual says it might be a check valves on the return of the fuel injector. Is this a common issue you are familiar with?
Looking at adopting 2 of these that have been sitting 4 to 5 years. I know 1 needs the ecu, but i want to keep the knock sensor, i think that is rather important... i wish someone could physically repair the board. Also what are these cylinders made of, i am worried they maybe seized if cast steel.
Question, getting ready to buy 2 aquatrax turbos,2003 &2006 on a double trailer for 8K, or a 2007 gtx & 2005 rxt seadoos on double trailer. What would u recomend I do???
I will be coming out with a video soon on how to rebuild the jet pump. You will need a special impeller tool to remove the impeller from the housing shaft. Also you'll need a large bench vise to hold the the other end of the impeller shaft, to expose the other end of the shaft you will need to remove the plastic cone that has 3 allen bolts holding it on.
If you keep up the regular maintenance they are some of the most reliable skis. The ECU unfortunately will happen on all models at some point. The corrosion caused in the housing in normal too but a new housing should be included in a pump rebuild every 100 hours or so.
This is dumb to say it effects all Hondas in saltwater. If not properly flushed and stored out of water then sure this might happen. I have a ski with 400+ hours original impeller and housing with no issues. Lots of saltwater riding. You have to extensively flush these skis.
Yes flushing these skis is a must. I'll not only flush mine but rinse the entire housing and impeller with fresh water. In fact I hose off the entire ski to get all of the salt water off and even carefully wash out the engine bay. The issues said in the video are my own experiences and from what I've read through research online. Both of my hondas had bad housings when I got them. Maybe it's more prominent in the deep south where I am in Louisiana.
If your ski has the original bearings and grease in the pump housing then it's a good chance you'll need to do a rebuild. If your pump is worn out it'll make a loud rattling noise.
Yes, too much money. Dissembling ecu is not good, no more nock sensor circuit. Could take engine out. If he charge 250 I would be more app to take the risk.
DO NOT disable your ECU knock sensor. That sensor is there for a reason. Just replace the sensor or ECU or both. Cheaper than a new ski and a lot safer. Took me 20 minutes.
It's all a matter of opinion, a sensor is a pretty penny and a new ecu is almost $1k. You replace all of that only for the issue to happen again?? I'd rather pay a one time fee and not worry about it ever again. Yes you are taking a risk but me myself and my mechanical knowledge knows how to feel and listen for knock in a engine. Jetskis have been around a long time without knock sensors and have been just fine.
@@jcola9234 definitely a calculated risk. The knock sensor is very important as you know. Interestingly, I had the code 25 knock sensor and replaced the ecu and still got the damn code! So turns out it was the knock sensor(80.00 fix) after all. So now I have 2 ecu’s 😂
Does it cause the Honda to not reach full RPM? I have an '02 and it isn't getting up to ~6,000 RPM. It's only been getting up to about 5K. II know it needs an oil change. Do you think it could be that or an oil/ fuel pump?
It can be a few things. it could be the spark plugs getting worn out however when I got my ski I am pretty sure the plugs and oil were very old and it still ran just fine. Another reason is that it could be hard for the engine to turn the jet pump, you may need to put new grease in the pump. The last thing is that the impeller pitch may be out of spec, I think if the pitch is too aggressive it will cause rpm to drop and when it is less aggressive it will raise rpm and the engine will hit the rev limiter. There are youtube videos about impeller and propeller pitch that are very useful.
Hi Check your west gate first. In the same time check turbo actuator. If both are good check turbines inside turbocharger and overall condition of it. Next thing is the turbo solenoid. This is little bit complicated because everything works together. If You need more info,You can call me 3217713428 Tom
It shouldn't, it's something the electrolytes in salt water that causes the corrosion. If you are in the USA a place that sells new housings that look to be corrosion free, not 100% sure.
It will need a new housing. The clearance between the housing is out of spec although it may not seem like it to the naked eye. When it comes to jet pumps the difference in thousands of an inch makes a big difference. You'll need a new housing and new impeller more than likely.
I was recently told by the shop that I had a tiny water drip from the exhaust assembly, but that it was dripping into the hull. They told me to keep an eye on it??
