Maintain, Repair, & Upgrade - ZD Racing DBX 10 1/10 4WD 2.4G Desert Truck Brushless RTR - Pt. 6 

Thank you! Complements like yours make putting in all the time and effort worthwhile! You won't regret taking the time to give your new DBX some TLC. The diffs really need it, as well as the shocks. I'm about to record a new installment covering another servo upgrade... The 32kg servo I initially put in didn't work very well... it doesn't seem to have a lot of holding power. The new servo is another "no name" off-brand, but the numbers look pretty good. I couldn't justify putting a $150 servo in a $300 buggy. Here is a link to the new servo I'm installing: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PTYTMJL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Also, I don't know if you're watched Part 7, but the springs for the TLR TEN-SCTE fit the shocks on the DBX-10. In the description of Part 7, you'll find links to the spring kits... for $46 you'll get 2 sets of 4 pairs of springs; 4 front pairs and 4 rear pairs. These are high performance springs made for racing and are much better than what comes stock. Tomorrow I'm going back to the same spot where I recorded Part 5 and test to see how the changes work. You'll have to keep in touch and let me know how your like your new RC truck. Thanks again for watching and commenting! CJ

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott Thanks for your reply! Yeah you deserve all my respect for the time and the serious you put in your chanel. Seems strange that a 35 kg servo didn t make the job. This is a normal 1/10 scale, of course there s more weight than a buggy, but 35 kilos should already be overkilled for this little beast to my mind. So I rely on your feedback to see if the problem doesn't come from an other part between servo and tires in the futur. Yeah your shok set looks premium qual. Hungry to check these out in your next Bash test. If I like what I watch, I ll go for a set. And I m curious about the shok oil you shose, how hard is it? 400 cst? 600? 800? A difference between front and rear? I Also noted a thing. During your outdoor test, it seemed to me that the tires were suffering from way too much deformation than it should be. Maybe your straight lacking stability comes from the pour quality of these tires. I don t know => it s just a feeling. 👍😂 I will start with this ratio for the diffs oil. Rear 5000 Center 15 000 Front 10 000. Any comments on this choice? Keep up your good work!! 💯💯 Greetings from France. 🇨🇵

​@@commanderstyle06100 I don't think the problem is a lack of strength, but just not a quality servo. Anyway, you've gotta take those numbers with a grain of salt. That's the problem with cheap equipment... you get what you pay for. The tires aren't that bad for being an inexpensive basher. They are made of a reasonably soft and grippy rubber... you're going to want to get better inserts ASAP. Maybe I need a fuller and firmer set of inserts. The set I put in are a crawling specific set... I wanted the tire to have a lot of sag to maximize the tire patch. They were what I had on hand at the time and were earmarked for another project but when I saw the ridiculous inserts that came with the truck, I had to put in something. Sorry, but I can't find the sheet where I wrote down the shock fluid weights... I'm sure I talk about it in the videos. Your choices for diff fluid sound like a great place to start. You will want to keep an eye on how it performs and make changes if needed. Hey, I noticed the sport bikes in your icon... Sport bikes are the only way to ride. What's your weapon of choice? I've had a couple 600s and a 750. I love riding, or I used to. A drunk driver took me out at highway speeds and I spent most of three months in traction in the shock-trauma hospital and then at home in a body cast. Wearing a full face helmet saved my life. I've always been an advocate for full face helmets. I was in a coma for the first week. Concussion, dislocated hip, ruptured spleen, internal bleeding, collapsed discs in my lower back, road-rash everywhere... I made a descent recovery, but the damage to my back caught up with me and six spine surgeries later, I'm disabled and live in constant pain... it's like having broken bones 24/7, 365 days a year. It could be worse... and I've got a wonderful wife who stuck by me and is the primary breadwinner. BTW, My grandmother on my father's side was born and raised in Grenoble. Where are you in France? Did you grow up there?

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott Man, I have so much to share with you but not on public. Can I get your email ? We have a lot more in common than what I could imagine.

@@commanderstyle06100 Sure, it's cjs_tri05@yahoo.com

Thanks! I'm chomping at the bit to get it out for a drive... it's been overcast and rainy the last few days so I'm waiting on the sun. I hope you're having fun!

You're welcome... I always try to credit my viewers when they give me good suggestions. I agree with your original assessment that the dry lube is a good option for people who don't go over their car after every day out. I'm not familiar with the 3 in 1 pfte, but I may have to try it sometime. I think I still have a can in the shed... I may give it a try on the CV joints and see how it works at the race track. Maybe I'll do a video specifically about different lubricants and where they work best. I really miss cycling! But, six spine surgeries have left me disabled and in constant pain. No more bikes for me... I had a Giant MTB that I built for cross country. It weighed in at just over 18 lbs. For triathlons, I had a Cervelo P2 with a set of Zipp wheels (404 front & 808 rear). I also had a full suspension downhill MTB and a cyclocross for foul weather training rides. When I finally had to surrender to my condition and sell them it was very painful. I knew I was closing the door on a big part of my life and my identity. My wife was really cool and waited until it was my decision instead of pressing me to let it all go. A lot of women would have split, but she stepped up and is the primary breadwinner.

Yes it would... The 1/8 buggies have boots on their shocks, but the same manufacturers don't put them on the 1/10s... the boots may have to much influence on the shocks action and response time. Once you get in the rhythm of doing regular service, it goes reasonably quick... remove wheels, disconnect the camber links, pull the axles and wipe clean, relube and reassemble. The drivetrain is the area that usually needs the most attention. The issue with boots on the axles is that the outdrives are so close to the a-arms... it would take spring-clip or something like a zip-tie to secure the boot to the outdrive, but that would catch on the a-arm and come off... there is the same issue at the outer end of the drive shafts where they meet up with the hubs. It's a great idea, but some things are just not possible on cars this small and fast. Thanks for watching! CJ

I haven't had any reason to change the gearing yet... it's fast enough to the point that it's hard to control in loose dirt and grass. And, it has plenty of power... I might go down in size to get a bit more acceleration, but I don't think it's got enough traction to use any extra torque. Here's a tip that will be covered in Part 7 which I'll be uploading tomorrow... The springs for the TLR TEN-SCTE will fit the shocks on the DBX-10... most 1/10 springs are to small in diameter, but these fit, and the TEN-SCTE is in the same weight range... Losi Front Shock Spring Tuning Set (8) $22.99 www.amainhobbies.com/losi-front-shock-spring-tuning-set-8-losb2959/p-quqvqaqqlc2xactz Losi Rear Shock Spring Tuning Set (8) $22.99 www.amainhobbies.com/losi-rear-shock-spring-tuning-set-8-losb2963/p-quqvqaqqlz2xactz I'm trying a pair of the 3.3 Silver springs in the rear to see if it helps keep the rear from smacking the ground on landings. As soon as I get a dry day, hopefully tomorrow or Wednesday, I'm going to take it back to the same sport and test it out.

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott thanks for the information. Can't wait for part 7... do u know what mod the gearing is ?

@@anthony.baxter3985 No, I don't... I did some checking, looked in the manual, checked the manufacturers website, even tried a couple of vendors... best bet is to take off the pinion and bring it to a hobby store.

Hi James, I'm a Scotsman born abroad. My great great great grandfather come to the USA in the 1600s. Here is a link to a playlist with all of my DBX-10 videos to date... more will be added soon including some aluminum swingarms to strengthen up the front end. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bNRpPcfpX_M.html Banggood has a lot of upgrade and stock parts for the DBX buggies... here's a link: usa.banggood.com/search/dbx-10-parts.html?from=nav AliExpress has a bunch too. just search for "DBX-10 parts" or "DBX-10 upgrades" Thanks for watching!

THat's a tough one... heating the part is one option, but since they're small parts, they'll be hard to handle without burning yourself. Another option would be to find a ring or bolt with the inner hole wider than the bearing. Prop the gear on the ring/bolt and tap around the edge of the bearings' outer race with a screwdriver/pick and a hammer until the bearing works free. Unfortunately, neither of these are very good options because both can damage the bearing you're trying to save. The best option is to buy all the parts, or better yet, replace the entire diff. Here are two links where you'll find most of the available stock and upgrade parts for this buggy. usa.banggood.com/ZD-Racing-1-or-10-DBX10-10427S-9106S-DBX10-RC-Car-Upgraded-Metal-Steering-Cup-C-Hub-Set-7186-7187-Parts-p-1285047.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=search shop.makerfire.com/products/zd-racing-dbx-10-desert-buggy-off-road-vehicle-rc-car-parts?variant=39488754188485 BTW, I still have mine and am about to upgrade the front a-arms with aluminum replacements. The aluminum c-cups and steering knuckles are great investments. Bare in mind that both of these vendors can take 3-8 weeks to deliver depending on where you live. I strongly recommend purchasing multiple spares so you're not caught out waiting with a broken buggy for delivery from China. Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with, and... Thanks for watching!

I'd run a 2S lipo inn this truck, since that is what it was set up for. Combined voltage is what you want to match. If you always use the same type, ex: lipo or alkaline or nickel you'll have less issues. Very few people use alkaline anymore. It's dated tech and doesn't put out as much power as the other types. Most kits say they are set up for 6S or 2S etc. and the ESC is configured to handle that amount of voltage. A 1 cell lipo pack has an output of 3.7 volts... a 6S has 6 times 3.7v or 22.2 volts. Then there is the C rating 30C, 50C, 100C and this is even more confusing particularly since the manufacturers play with this number as a sales incentive. But, basically the C rating is the power with which the voltage is delivered. The higher the C rating, the faster the battery of the same mAh will run down, but the more power it will deliver. You can look at C as torque, and mAh as the size of the tank and S as the size of the engine.

thanks for this lesson, I have the Brushed model and I hope not to burn the ESC with LITHIUM batteries@@MyRCChannel-CJScott

@@mikelo76 as long as the total voltage is more or less the same, you should be ok. These trucks usually come with a battery. I didn’t even think that you might have gotten the brushed versions. If it came with a nickel pack, I’d continue to use those. You’ll probably save some money that way. If you’ve already bought a lithium battery, and you can’t return it, make sure you’ve got a compatible charger.

yes I have the BRUSHED version that uses Ni-MH...maybe it's better to use this and not switch to LIPO to avoid problems@@MyRCChannel-CJScott

@@mikelo76 yes, that would be my recommendation. If at some point you want to do an upgrade, get a brushless motor/esc combo for a 1/10 short course truck. The Hobbywing EZRUN MAX10 G2 Combos run 2S-3S lipos and are plus or minus $200.