Bill, it is always an absolute pleasure to watch you work. I cannot say how many people I have suggested your channel to, I know it's helped a lot of folks out. Thank you very much for being here with us & wish you the best of health & well being.
Wanted to jump on and say its great to see you making videos again. Your work is inspiring to me. I want to jump in and do more than autox which I haven't gotten to do for a while since my fd rx7 has been sitting for years at this point due to some bad engine tuning making it go boom. Cheers, and thank you for sharing your tech and how toos.
you have to warn a fella when you change the channel name, sir! too many youtubers going dark these last few years, very glad you are still kicking out great tutorials!
I think u should build the ultimate fiberglass boat now bill, that will keep ya busy, this way you’ll be surrounded in the one true material love of ur life ‘fiberglass’
Toyota MR2 Mk2's have the same problem. Rad up front, bulkhead right behind the rad and forces the airflow down. but they dont always overheat. 13.7L of coolant in the system. but doing the same bulkhead mod and ducting the airflow up does make the front end more stable.
This is a Masterclass - which means it covers advanced techniques - not the basics of fiberglassing. You need to watch my first fiberglass tutorial which is aimed at beginners & covers all that for you step by step. The green product is Gelcoat. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iOZkwrfpit8.html
When I mark a video as a "Masterclass" it means it features advanced techniques, and does not cover fiberglassing basics. I did that in the very first video in my fiberglass tutorial "Playlist." To repeat all that basic stuff in every video would be time wasting & boring. Of course I used a single coat of release wax (unpolished), followed by PVA release before I applied my gelcoat. I just didn't show it, because I have shown that over & over. Just like I didn't explain this time the details of what's involved in trimming fiberglass with a utility knife. After 65 fiberglass tutorials, you get to the point where you wanna move on! Hahhaha!
@@BillsBuildandRace I’ve been following your builds for years . My brother and I own a 1989 vw derby . The carb backfired up and set fire to the engine bay and melted the grille , which are super rare. I watched your videos. Made a copy/negative mould of the undamaged part and remade the grille. Your videos are a great help😁
I love watching your videos. I am currently working on a Triumph Spitfire project that I am putting A Mazda rotary into. I will be making a vented bonnet as you have done here. But I am wondering if there is a method to do this without cutting up the factory hood? It is still in good shape, and I would like to be able to pass it along to someone who wants factory original.
The only way to not damage a factory bonnet is to make your scoop a complete add-on. But even if you can avoid screw holes by just using glue to fasten it on, there are appearance compromises with that method. Forget everyone else who "might" want your original bonnet. Take the saw to it and sculpt what you really wamt. Far more people are likely to want copies of THAT the the original. To make an omelette - ya gotta break eggs!
Hi Bill, have done prity much the same to my aw11 mr2 track car bar recreating it in fibreglass. The 'frunk' vent made a lot of difference in the handling of the car. When building your molds, do you use waxed or unwaxed resin? Cheers.
Me. I am an hour north of Newcastle. I presume you'd want a set of flanged molds of the die, then a copy made in that. You can message me and send pics via the Facebook links to me on this channel's home page.
@@BillsBuildandRace I will already have the molds, it has apparently had one body pulled from it. I know it would be a guess, but what kind of price would it be to have a body pulled and how many bodies can be made before the mold is no good?
@@rodneykemp1009 I would have to see pics of the molds before I could even give a rough quote, but $5K would be a starting point for a job that size. How many copies a mold can deliver depends on what gelcoat was used to make it. If general purpose gelcoat, around 5 - 8; if made using tooling gelcoat (commonly a orangey red), more than double that. Molds that have deteriorated can also usually be repaired.
@@BillsBuildandRace I d like to ask one more question sir. since you have a lot of experience, I want to learn the cost of full exterior body of a car molded . the car is Nissan GTR R35. full exterior body panel mold cost . regards.
@@japoncae7211 The cost of materials to do it yourself, or the cost to get it done? I don't think you fully appreciate just how expensive & time consuming molding a whole car is. Then after that, you double your time & expense to produce the copies.
@@BillsBuildandRace well, lets say both. personally I have been watching your videos to learn it. I want to hear from you the cost of whole car doing myself and by a professional . thanks sir.
