Make electric underfloor heating with warmup, isolate the concrete floor, make self leveling. 

Thanks for the advice, all the best to you.

I might be a dumb Bricklayer but I'd guess you would need something like "Absolute Zero" to get close to zero resistance. let alone the material. Though I'm happy to be wrong.

I have not measured the heating mesh... I was checking it for continuity... so to me made sense... if it wasn’t show zero, it would of been a problem.

@@askhowtube 3.5 ohms was the loop resistance! Need to know how to read a multimeter! And have an understanding if electronics

@@360cliveNo offence,but I can see that you have no idea what I was doing there...doesn’t matter what the meter was reading, my interest was to check if the wire is disconnected... I don’t need to measure it because it was written everything on the box...the company offers warranty on the product, but if the wire is disconnected you cannot put the blame on them after you installed it... if it’s damaged, you need to take it back before you fit it... do you understand? I don’t really care what the meter was reading, as long as is showing me that the underfloor heating sheet hasn’t any disconnected wire...better than this I cannot explain mate...

@@askhowtube I have to agree with 360Clive. The wire has a resistance not zero! The longer the wire the higher the resistance! Resistivity of the copper which also proportional to the cross sectional area. If the was a break it would show infinite resistance hence the meter was showing 1 on the left indicating infinite....

@@docj3wls573 no problem mate, what it matters to me is that the underfloor heating is working, and whatever the number of customers I have done same thing, no one has ever complained. Happy new year...

It is working perfect…this is the way I have always did it everywhere … and I have learned from warmup to do it that way… thanks for the advice anyway. All the best.

@@askhowtube 👍

Hi, yes ... the insulation I have used is because there was no insulation at all underneath the concrete, but if you have celotex, or kingspan as on your case, it’s perfect. I recommend minimum of 100mm insulation but I am sure 75mm will do the job as well. Good luck. 😄

@@askhowtube great thanks for your advice. We didn't have the height for 100mm so had to make do with 75

What reading should be? I have touched both pins and showed 0, after I did the same with the heating mesh and it showed same which means continuously… I have learned this from an electrician, and never had a problem, everywhere I have installed underfloor heating I did the same, never had a complaint… how you doing it?

@@askhowtube they have instructions on the box on what the resistance should be. You had it right at 5:09. Resistance of 3.5 Ohms is good. Zero would mean it's a normal wire and won't heat. You actually want to measure to see if the resistance changes from 3 Ohms to 30 or 300 Ohms because that means a crack in the wire occurred or there's a bad connection. If you turn the meter up to the range that forces it to read zero you could miss a crack or bad connection. Thanks for the video!

It’s pointless, because all the heat will go down on the floor… you insulate the floor to stop the heating going down…

Yes, if you want a wet system, but in some places they want dry UFH. I have a job where the cost of wet is too much for my customer.

Everyone complains about the music, but as I am making some parts of the video on fast mode, it cannot be without music, and I cannot choose whatever music I want, because RU-vid will delete my video due to copyright.

No you don’t have to. Good luck.

I’m sure you can find it if you’re google it... Goodluck

Thanks for your comment… With all the respect, I disagree with everything you said… -The Matt I have not put it closer to the wall in purpose for two big reasons… 1st reason is that is pointless to heat the sides, as there will be furniture, sofa, and 2nd reason is that the heat is spreading anyway… so it will be warm there too, on every job I did the same, and in my honest opinion is money waste to buy bigger matt just to put it from the edges of the wall, when as I said the heat will reach anyway… - YOU DO NOT NEED TO PRIME THE INSULATION BOARDS… they’re new, no dust, and they don’t have a smooth face, contrary the surface is rough in purpose so the self levelling will stick properly. -the sensor is perfect where I put it, because as I said heating is spreading out, so when the floor is getting cold, the place where I put, will get cold first, so it needs to start and keep the temperature as it was set. -Staples did hold in the “foam” as you said, because this is not the “foam” you use at the doors and windows, this is a special insulation made in purpose for this type of job… Question did ever did an underfloor heating? Because, no offence, but looking at your comment, I don’t think you know what is this. Goodluck.

I have done many floors, the edges will not get warm, the boards are a thin piece of foam with a thin layer of cement on either side, staples will not fix to those boards. The warm up instructions tell you to prime the boards and that the probe must be placed centrally between the heating wires. You should stop talking rubbish and correct your mistakes as everything else you are doing seems to be OK.

No problem mate.

​@askhowtube if using more than 1 matt, are cables joined, or how do you get it back to thermostat.

@tonygrace4946 you cannot join the wires on the mat as this will change the values of the mat, you have to start the mats at the thermostat and go in different directions.