HOLY COW! I'm blown away by how many people like this video...THANK YOU! Here is a more detailed, UPDATED video about making hillside stairs: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hK4pyFJVVZk.html.
Due to cost, handling and availability I prefer to use wood chips/mulch. When you own a wood chipper as I do as well as harvesting my own firewood, I've another use for the tree tops besides the garden. to me, much nicer to walk on then rocks or gravel. No weed cloth required. Love you construction design, simple..
Thank you for your help we moved into a river front property with steep slope down to beach area. The second day I fell down the slope I am 57 years old lol the older you get the harder you fall. I'm ok I just don't want anyone else to do as I did. So now we have a rope to help us down by my 5 year old cousin comes and stays with us and we need some stairs to keep her safe. Even thought she does good with the rope with a little practice we need stairs. Thank you again.
While building our house, my husband made a small "balcony" outside one of the sliders that was about 6' off the ground. When the decks were built, that had to come down. He was going to tear it apart. I suggested we put it on the short bank up to the veg garden. It fit perfectly. The backs of the steps are at a sight angle because they're 90 degrees based on the sides. They're just pine 2x lumber but have held up for almost 25 yrs. No weed barrier & no gravel. I just weed them occasionally.
Very helpful video - thanks. I was quoted £870 to have a similar set of stairs built for a 4 foot slope ( only 4 steps) - crazy London prices. This has given me the confidence to have a go and save a lot of money. ( even after I buy a circular saw!) I look forward to learning more from you - thank you.
When building any steps, the most important thing is evenness. If changing direction, or introducing a curve, then a landing is best, or figure out a good average for the tread change. Although I can no longer locate the formula any more, there is a tread to riser ratio. The higher the riser, the shorter the tread should be.
Even with the ground block and gravel the weeds will still grow, unless you use weed killer granules every year. I did a shed base using this same method. Pulling weeds out of the gravel every year.
Greetings from London - great video - the best I've seen ( and I've watched a lot!). I had a few questions but you have answered them all in your replies to comments ( so many people don't). The best answer to help me was that you don't have top dig the side rails in - just anchor them with stakes. I have a very similar slope but only about a third of the length, but it's on pretty soft ground so here goes - lots of stakes! It rains a lot here, so it will probably rot in 5 years - but at least I will get more practice! Thanks again.
We built a ramp with a clear centre about 8 inches wide and 2 x1x 8 inch blocks of wood "steps" on either side. This way you can push a wheelbarrow up with your feet on the wee steps. No sliding.
@@beharrlich as I understand it, take a flat slope and make a short half step either side while leaving the middle open. The wheel travels in the middle while either side acts like a stairway. In effect it's the inverse of waggon wheel rut paths where the center is raised and the edges ground down. Hope that helps.
Thank you! I have a 25-30 section where I want to put a set of these type of stairs right next to the concrete driveway. Always wondered what's the best way to do it, and your video answered pretty much all my questions. Thanks again!
So, you’ve made a long staircase, somehow carried it into place but the slope needs digging as it’s all undulating. You then drag the staircase out of the way to dig so it fits into hill slope. Wouldn’t it be easier to just build each step overlapping the lower one?
I like this technique. However, I have a stack of railroad ties and so I plan to use them along with some other materials to make a set of steps back behind my house.
I love the simplicity of this step/stair build. My question is, do I build this on the hill, or do I build it in a shop / garage, then carry it out to my slope and place it ? Then do the staking?
I precut the risers and stakes. I ran an extension cord up the hill with a splitter and two drills, one for screws and one for pre-drilling holes and also a saw. This made installation much quicker.
Really interesting and simple method! How do you account for level of the long sides of the box (not the steps) on a slope? Is it necessary to dig a trench on the high side to level them out? Thanks!
Yes, I think the weight of the gravel is as big factor (in addition to the the stakes). I haven’t had any issues with movement from water…etc. I will dig if the terrain conflicts too much with the natural direction of the run.
Hi, No hard and fast rules. Larger sized gravel is probably better, since it won't clog up as fast with dirt. The stakes can definitely go on the outside. I like the look of them on the inside...but it's totally a preference.
Thanks. I need to make a set of steps going down outside my house that will accommodate my son's wheelchair. I think the bay will need to be longer than usual, perhaps 4 ft, so he can maneuver his wheelchair. Any suggestions?
@@WineberryHill Im also trying to plant a garden on a slope, would this work for on sloped garden beds? Im trying not to dig into the hillside because its rocky clay.
Looking to build stairs like this. My only concern is getting stakes pounded in deep enough. It's rocky where I am. Thinking about having some rebar as a backup if wood stakes won't go in. Thoughts anybody?
I'm looking to do the same at my place - I really appreciate this video. Question for you... How wide can you go with the step(2x6) before the weight of the gravel, rain, etc... causes a structural issue?
No idea, I would guess that it would do fine at double the width. The screws might become the weak link. I would recommend a lot more stakes…and screws.
Stale placement is flexible to a degree. I think stakes on the sides are sturdier. Yes, you would want to make a relatively bump free spot for the box to go.
Thanks for the Video! This is just what I needed to comfortably get from my driveway up to the side yard. I'm building an approx.7.5' run, 6 stairs at 25 degrees. Do you think screws are adequate? I'm thinking of toe nailing with 10d 3" nails three each side. (Overkill?) and using deck screws for the stakes. Lastly, should I level the slope to the bottom of the lower riser? Sorry for all the questions, just don't have the energy to do this twice. Thanks again!
I am right there with you. I’m not doing things twice, so I try to make sure I maximize how I do it. I tend to lean towards screws because they won’t slowly loosen overtime with freeze and thaw cycles. Especially since the stairs are on the ground. Not totally sure I understand your last question but if I did, if I do, I think the answer is yes any way to make this more stable is always going to be the best approach. Keep me posted!
Thanks for the video! I have a question please. I seem to have the opposite issue to a lot a of people. My slope - of about 18 degrees - is very sandy...no clay/soil. Do you think this type of construction will work for that type of slope?
Could this method be used on a rocky hillside that has creek rock all the way down and also has water running down it a few times a year? I’m wondering if anything would wash away and how the staircase “box” would be secured…maybe drill through the rock and use concrete around those stakes?
Hi- Thanks for a great instructional video. What are your thoughts on using rebar where you used wooden stakes? Would that work and would it be as effective? Thank you😊
@@WineberryHill doing a project right now and stairs going in Monday. Want to do this, any tips for the steeper pitch? I understand most everything else. Do you think you could fill them with cement?
Extra spikes/stakes the steeper it gets. Sure cement "might" be good. I't does have benefits (no weeds, extra durable) You might want to sink rebar or similar into the middle of the boxes where the cement will go to ensure it stays put.
Awesome- How much site prep, if any, would you say is necessary for this method? This seems perfect for getting up a rather steep, but fairly short, grass slope on our property.
If you have a really long set of hill you want to build stairs on would you do this in multiple boxes to make it more reasonable? What is the length you'd suggest a single box to be?
Nice explanation. What is your average rainfall each year? Even with ground contact lumber, I have difficulty with keeping anything other than 4x4s or larger from rotting after 4 or 5 years. We get 70 inches or more per year.
📍Here’s my question: can you go into more detail about making the risers level? I’m a visual learner and although I see you have them angled a bit, presumably to account for the angle of the slope, I can’t tell what I’m making it level to.
Question: what do I do with the stakes that hold the box if I live on a rocky hillside covered in scree? The rock is a mix of quartzite and slate. The soil is sand and very slippy.
You need some kind of vertical stabilizers. If it's impossible to drive wooden stakes down, you might need to use a hammer drill and make holes for rebar, that you would anchor to the box.
@@WineberryHill thanks for the reply. Corded hammer drill added to the maintenance shopping list. I assume I can buy pre-bent rebar in a hook shape to hook on to the wood form for added stability? Or would that be overkill?
Hi, new subscriber! You make great videos. I'm thinking about making stairs like this for an area in my yard next to my terraced raised garden beds. Do you bury any portion of the long side boards or any portion of the risers that rest on the ground or is it strictly the stakes and weight of the gravel holding the stairs in place? Thank you for your help!
Ive just got my dad to order a load of wood for doing it this way. Can i just check you dont dig these into the bank at all, apart from the stakes... It just sits on top and creates bays that you fill with gravel? Surely I have to dig out of the hill on each step to make each step flat to fill? Im just a bit worried because watching this video again it seems like you have douubled up the 2x6 in a lot of places? Thanks
Help! I followed your example exactly - no improvisations. And apparently, I did something wrong. I used 2x6 pretreated wood; 12 ft long; 3 ft wide. I built a total of 5 bays/stairs. My gravel just arrived this morning so I've been outside filling the bays, and it looks great, yet when I step on the 1st stair, I am sliding downward, just like the slope pre-stairs. Maybe my risers aren't high enough, but they are perfectly level, each one. I spaced them 27.75" apart, again on a total of 12' of stairs (5 stairs/bays). I don't know what to do to make a correction.
Is it possible that you did not use enough stairs for the 12' run and the angle of the slope? The top of the gravel should be level! I am in the process of building these stairs (Thank you very much @WineberryHill) and I have 6 stairs over an 8' run @25 degrees, and the gravel at the bottom of the of the next riser is only covering about 5/8".
It’s important to use wood preservative on the ends of any cut pieces otherwise even pressure treated wood will rot. Also the screws will tend to pull out over time. Simpson straps are a good alternative
Hi, everytime I try to pound stakes into the ground, they won't go in bc my ground is so rocky. It's a common problem in the part of Colorado I live in. Even trying to put a spiral stake into the ground is nearly impossible. It's so frustrating! Any advice? Anyone?
Oh man I feel your pain. It's SO rocky where i live also. That "can" be really good because you are wedging the stakes into rocks that likely won't be going anywhere. You might need to use a ton more stakes, and use a sawzall to cut them flush to the tops of the risers...or you can try digging.
