Make USB Power Cable 

Can you give some examples? It may not be the way I want to go but I may be misunderstanding what you want too.

Mobile chargers, how they work, battery stuff, data readers, pen drives etc.things which common ppl face issues n donno how to fix. Thank you 😊

My intension is if small things r not working,,, they just become `electronic waste` we all know how much intelligence is built into it.. but we just throw them.. i dont like that 😊

Thanks for clarifying. Unfortunately, those would be off-topic for this channel. The how-it-works topics on this channel are more how the things that we make work, and not so much how consumer electronics work. I agree with you regarding the electronics waste. It's sad, but it's true. My instinct is to try and repair things before throwing them out, or keep them and use them for parts.

Thanks Dan! A pleasure as always.

Thanks! I'm glad you liked it! Unfortunately, I don't know how to make a self-running generator.

sure Amigo! you can make a solar and wind generator self running battery charger that powers a generator! no free lunch in retrieving energy..those are fairytales!

Oh, that does sound like it would be perfect! Thanks for the tip!

RimstarOrg If you ever need to identify a contact point....rubbing, drilling a hole, etc....use lipstick. :-)

Thanks!

You can see the two ends in the video at around 0:18. From en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB the squarish end is a Type B and the rectangular end is a Type A, USB 1.0 or USB 2.0. It was randomly selected from a thrift store so I don't know what it was originally used for. I have a similar one with the same two ends which I use for communicating between my PC and my Arduino Uno and it also powers the Arduino from the PC.

The most common use for that type of USB it's for HP printers, or modems.

That was an okay-ish looking solder job, I‘ve got no problem with that. It‘s probably only going to carry 0.5-2A @ 5 volts, so no really big loads.. You can pass a lot of current through these. Melting is more of a problem at mains currents...

Yeah, those leads sticking out of the pin headers were pretty short, not much to work with there. Maybe (big maybe) I could have wrapped the wire around them first. As Tobias said, the current is low so heating should be well below the solder's melting point.

I've never thought to try scissors. I'll keep it in mind for next time, thanks. The only issue I've found so far was that on startup, the motor controller I'm using (Maestro) would do some stuff for around 30 seconds and then go quiet. The phone charger/battery bank would then shut down and all power would be lost. But luckily the Raspberry Pi has enough activity to keep the charger alive. So as long as I'm powering both of them then the charger never shuts down.

Cheap chinese chargers generally don't do things like actually filtering the power after rectifying it.

I've used Ideal T-Strippers for years (decades?). Not automatic strippers, not hardware store strippers. Ideal T-Strippers. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-31gk3KoppLs.html

i like using the cutting blade on a cheap pair "adjustable" wire strippers for stripping small wires.

Thanks! And good idea, so much simpler.

i wanna know too

If by acc you mean AC (alternating current) electricity then that won't work. USB is DC (direct current). You also have to have the right voltage and make sure you won't supply too much current.

If by 240 you mean a 240 volts AC jigsaw, then yes, you'd need an inverter between the drill battery and the jigsaw. The battery supplies DC and the jigsaw takes AC. An inverter converts DC to AC. But I'm surprised there's a USB port involved since USB is usually lower current. If there's a USB port on your drill battery then it's probably putting out DC but it probably can't handle the amount of current that a jigsaw would be drawing (taking) from it. I can't be sure about that, you'd have to check the specifications somewhere (on the drill case or in a manual?).

If the fan has only two wires then I suspect it's a DC fan. However, from the colors, green and white, I can't tell which should be positive and connected to the red wire and which should be negative and connected to the black wire.

There are too many things I don't know about your decorative light for me to say. If it's something that normally plugs into a wall socket then it won't work by plugging it into a USB port.

Know if how much volt it requires your decorative stuff . . 6v 9v 12v . . . U can use ure 5v output powerbank . . But u need a step up chip to make 5v turn into 6v to 12v automatically . . Costing 2 dollars

@@albertdomaoan1473 Thanks for the tip.

might be tough without additional electronics parts, such as usb controllers which will negotiate a power level which is sufficient to power a lamp. if you use the method shown in the video, you will get 5V and 100mA, max, if it is usb2. look for usb pd controllers or triggers. they are little dedicated controllers which will negotiate a power level with the source to deliver you a power sufficiently high for your lamp.

Connecting multiple cables will only allow you to handle more current. For changing the voltage you'd need some kind of circuit. I don't have any suggestion off-hand.

any solution yet? i am having the same problem..

Strange but use a multimeter or voltmeter and check which wires gives 5v

You should be able to use the cable since the wire thickness is pretty much that same as what I use for my SG90s. Whether or not your phone charger will power them is a different question. The current drawn by the SG90s may be too much for the charger and damage it. You'd have to compare the specifications for the SG90 against what's written on the charger.

This is the first I've heard of SATA cables so I can't say for sure. Based on this webpage techterms.com/definition/sata there are 7 wires but the USB connector has only 4 so you'd only be able to use 4 of the wires from the SATA cable. I also don't know what size the wires are so if they're very small, they may be hard to work with.

Not that I know of. Maybe you could provide some sort of dummy load through a large resistor, but I haven't tried it so I don't know if it would work for sure. It does mean that you'd always be powering the resistor and so you'd have a constant power draw slowly draining the battery.

The easy way shall be a variable resistor connected in parallel. Set it to max initally and lower it slowly under no-load open circuit. Then the resistance of the parallel circuit shall be low enough

Thanks! I'm glad to hear it. I don't see why you couldn't do what you want though I don't know the details of the two connectors so I don't know how easy it would be.

@@RimstarOrg Ah fair enough. You know a lot of electrical wiring but it's basically a cable like this: www.amazon.co.uk/2-Pack-Express-Graphics-Video-Adapter-2-Pack/dp/B07C6P9R9R/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1551269354&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=pcie+power+cable&psc=1 That one goes to power the video card and is normally attached to a desktop power supply like the one that you modded. Then I wanted to fuse it with this laptop charger since the video card I plan to use only pulls 120 watts from the wall at full load and the laptop charger is 330 watts which should be more then enough unless i can find a cheaper 200 watt brick. Here's the charger: www.acharger.co.uk/original-330w-dell-alienware-m18x-r3-i74800mq-ac-adapter-charger-p-23986.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAh9njBRCYARIsALJhQkHdyJ_1XhWUs4V8HfNNPVpnSnrca4fna_ri9o8TI6xRHHh64DZThRsaAk-fEALw_wcB I was wondering about using a converter like this: www.amazon.co.uk/Female-DC-Power-adapter-terminal/dp/B00MIKWEBI/ref=pd_day0_hl_147_1/257-0164774-7361632?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00MIKWEBI&pd_rd_r=cd4bc916-3a88-11e9-9ce8-2950a399f43d&pd_rd_w=SqWIQ&pd_rd_wg=lIQS1&pf_rd_p=92d624bb-a334-423e-8722-8024dd09667f&pf_rd_r=FAN4S2MVND5RMC44B4H1&psc=1&refRID=FAN4S2MVND5RMC44B4H1 Then the laptop charger would plug into that and that would be fused to the first PCIE power cable which gets connected to the video card. The only problem is I am not sure which wires are the power wires and which need to get fused. I don't think I need a soldering gun because this device uses screws to transmit electricity but would it be safe to use and provide enough power for the gpu? I plan to use a separate pico power supply for the processor, motherboard, ram, and SSD drive because it is a really small form factor system that can't fit an internal power supply.

I don't have answers, just things you might want to look into. Firstly, if the video card normally get's power from the desktop's power supply then possibly it's voltage should be relative to the desktop's power supply's ground. It may be important for the communication between the two. You'd need to guarantee that would still be the case if you use the laptop charger. Also, it's not good enough that the laptop charger have a good enough power rating, it also must give the proper voltage and enough current. Whatever wires you use must be rated for the current which will be on them. The terminal block's screw connections may have a maximum current rating. That would be the only issue I can think of with regard to using that instead of soldering.

I'm assuming you're talking about running the fan off of the laptop's USB output. The voltage is low so it wouldn't be dangerous to you. However, I'd be more worried about your fan taking too much current from the laptop, damaging the laptop. You'd have to find out how much current the laptop can supply without being damaged. Then you'd have to check how much current the fan will be using, to make sure the laptop can supply enough, and that the fan won't take more than the laptop can supply. And lastly, the fan would have to be a DC fan, not AC, and run off of 5 volts or less since that's what USB ports supply.

@@RimstarOrg thank you so much.

@@RimstarOrg ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4vv8V46Y11o.html I tried to connect it to a powerbank

Looks good.

@@RimstarOrg is it okay If i connect it to the laptop?

I actually got back to working on the How a Wimshurst Machine Works one first. There are a few of these videos that take a lot of time to make that people are waiting for.

Are you saying that the ionocraft won't lift or that your generator isn't working? Your generator could be fine but just not producing enough current or a high enough voltage for the ionocraft. If it's a lifter type of ionocraft then it requires a lot of current to produce the needed ions for the ion wind. In this video, I measure the output voltage required and get some hint at the current ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LOGAaObsN4g.html. And near the end of this video, I measure the input voltage needed for my high voltage power supply to fly the lifter ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GEuK1OdYxHk.html.

Please tell me what is the minimum voltage is required to lift the ionocraft?

How can i repair my model? Please suggest me some more intresting and creative ideas and model so that i can make a new model.

We also have a conversation going in the comments under my "Wimshurst machine" video so let's continue there instead of in two places.

Thanks! And Welcome!

I doubt it. It's a pretty odd combination of connectors.

Search for "USB TTL Serial Cables"

@Lucas Bidule Good point. I have a USB TTL serial cable plugged into a Jetson TX1 on the table beside me right now and had forgot about it. It's this one here www.adafruit.com/product/954 but don't that one has a chip inside it. Are there some which don't? Of course, if you are looking for a USB TTL serial cable then you don't have to make your own.

Cool! Thanks for letting me know.

Qualifications for this? None are required. Just a lifetime of making stuff. I do have a University degree in computer science but that doesn't help with these videos.

Sir can you make arduino based projects?

I started making some a while back but there didn't seem to be much interest. However, I did end up doing these ones: Fun with Arduino that Talks with Speech Synthesizer ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RFCJdBVkpE8.html ScareDuino, speaking skull ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-K2fAc0P1aJc.html ScareDuino with improved sound: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P0lYZtz7TZ0.html My BB-8 droid uses an Arduino ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BCXH4AN2aog.html

depends on what kind of charger it is. first of all, the distinction between protocol and interface. usb 1, 2, 3, 4 describe the protocol, data rates and so on. usb type a, b, c the interface and power delivery capabilites. around these core specifictions there are other usb products/releases which relate to power delivery, such as usb bc (battery charge) and usb pd (power delivery). if your smart charger has a usb type c interface, 2 of the 24 pins, the CC lines, will do the power negotiation. With "standard" usb type c, up to 15W of power is possible. if the charger can do more, then because very likely it supports usb pd, which is necessary if you want to provide or receive power exceeding said 15W (some products, up to 240W at this point). there is a controller in your charger dedicated for usb pd functions, such as talking the pd protocol and more importantly the power negotiation with the attached device. the controller will have preset power levels which it will offer to the connected device. and if the device can handle high power / supports usb pd then, they will agree on one of the power levels. they will make a "contract" and the power delivery starts. There is much more to it and the sequence of the negotiation is a more complex back and forth, and there also different modes in which the device can supply the sink apart from those preset power profiles, but yeah, hope you got a rough idea. at some poitn i said "likely it supports pd". this is because not all products adhere to the usb specification and use there own solution which is not conform with the specification. the usb specification are all free to access on usb.org. the usb pd psecification gives a great, detailed summery of its functions and points to the relevant sections.

Hi Kyle!

See the video again starting at 1:15. At 1:26 I show that the red wire is connected to the bottom right (it depends on what you mean by top and bottom).

Thanks. I made one and tried using it to power my LED stick on RGB lights. But the lights won’t turn on. Like it can’t pull enough power. I was using a 9000 mah portable power bank. It works fine wired directly to my motorcycle battery. But won’t turn on when I add the USB pig tail like you did and plug it into my power bank. Why is that?

Also the power bank turns on when I plug it in. So it’s drawing power. And wired correctly But the LED lights I’m trying to power won’t turn on.

Some questions to look into. What voltage is your battery and what voltage is your power bank (I'm assuming that one's around 5 volts)? What voltage does your LED stick require? How many amps is your power bank rated for and how many amps does you LED stick require?

Here is the link for the power bank I’m using. www.ebay.com/itm/382523271951 And here is the link for the LED light kit. www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZGCKBL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_6YZBFbM8G875P Battery is just a standard 12V motorcycle battery. Maybe you can help sort me out. I want to use a secondary power source so I do t have to use my battery. I’ve left it on accident and had to jump my bike.

@@ravikilnake4100 there is no logic I can use to make that make sense in my head.

Do it!

That's to prevent electromagnetic interference. Basically, some things emit electromagnetic waves and those could interfere with the current conducting in the wires and cause errors in the signals going to the circuit board. Having a metal covering, ideally connected somewhere to Earth ground, helps block that (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_shielding).

@@RimstarOrg , I very much doubt that the addition of the aluminum foil shield made any difference at all. The shielding in a USB cable is there primarily to shunt radiated electrostatic energy from being emitted and causing interference with other electronics, and that is only a consideration with the high speed data wires (green and white), which are not being used anyway in this power-only application. Then, the two power cables (red and black) neither radiate such energy, nor are they influenced by it. All that needed to be done here was cut off the braided and foil shield at the end of the insulation, and cut the two data wires off a bit further (so they can't short to the shield). Insulating the two stub ends of the data wires is advisable so possible shorts between them cannot damage anything in the equipment providing the USB power (and if that is just a USB charger or power pack, there is probably not even any connections to those data signals anyway). Then it certainly is cosmetic to put some shrink tubing or electrical tape around the end of the cable where the insulation ends....but not technically necessary.

There probably is a way but I'm not aware of it.

+jane red duckduckgo.com/?q=FM+crystal+radio&ia=web

ALLAHU AKBAR ALLAHU AKBAR ALLAHUU AKBARRRR

Did it work?

@@terrarian9501 this method limits the power to 5V@0.1A = 0.5W. works, but not very well. in order receive more power, additional circuitry is necessary. usb doesnt provide all the available current without negotiating the power level first.

Thanks! MHz covers quite a range. I have this webpage about using the Mini-Circuits POS-400+ chip for the 200MHz to 380MHz range.

Hello,thanks for your reply.I'll check it out.However I was looking for lower range MHz like 1 MHz to 20 MHz.

A quick google search shows plenty of oscillators in that range.

Only a month since my last video, my friend. It's been a while since I've had time to do weekly. I'm surprised I managed to do it for 4 years! It'd be nice to do twice a month, but for now, once a month is all I can manage and keep the quality up.

Yeah, I figured as much but I did it anyway.

yeah that plastic pin header wont be completing "case" ground from the battery anyways. a concern about having the shielding left open(not electrically bonded between devices) is that it creates an antennae. then with the variables of cable length and power across the cable, it could possibly cause radio frequency interference somewhere else. as they say in the states, non fcc compliant.

I stripped the insulation off the white and green wires even though I didn't need to so that I could show you where they went to at the connector end. I do that at 1:34.

@@RimstarOrg ah. Thank you for replying. And thank you for your video, great job.

if the laptop doesn't charge over usb-c i wouldn't recommend it. Because you have to charge at like what? 19v? and some amps and something like 45/65/90W which may not be lower then it says on the ac adapter... don't try it on your only laptop

diycamperconversion.com/12v-laptop-car-charger-powering-laptop-without-inverter/

You mean you want videos that cover deeper topics, topics with more meat to them? There are some coming, but I had to get these out of the way first. Making a high-quality video means I have to keep the hardware the same until the video is finished since I always have to film pick-up shots. Only then can I move on with major changes to the hardware. So these topics had priority. I'm not sure which one will be next but all the ones I have in mind are meatier.

I think the idea behind this is when it's an uncommon connector on one end, so you'd haven't to either create a custom connector or just modify the cable directly like this.

You won't find a cable with that end, hence why he had to make it

What's a dupont? I use crimpers to larger diameter wire but mine don't work for this smaller diameter. But there was nothing sloppy about the trimming I did, no strands wasted or missing. Plus, not everyone watching has the specific tools for the job, so it's good to show other ways every now and then.

dupont's a way to make custom jumper wires without soldering. crimping has the advantage of being able to use a jumper wire numerous times without the risk of cracking a soldered connection on the jumper wire. which could create cold solder joints that could cause intermittent problems.