Make Your Car Engine and Transmission Last a Very Long Time - Top 5 Tips On Car Care 

Ryan Williams my thought exactly!!! Had a grand am, was my first car. I always had problems with it no matter how good I took care of it.

Hahahaha for ever hahahaha

It has an ecotec engine. I have one. Bulletproof.

Seems to have an Opel Engine, enough explaination so far.

Ryan Williams LOL

Don't forget, the Thermostat

Also power steering. Very easy to overlook and costly to replace the rack

Replace the clutch and pressure plate before it leads to pressure plate failure. But clutch and pressure plate only need to be changed about every 200,000 miles or so. If you can handle a clutch well, 250,000 miles is very easy to obtain. If you have a Front wheel drive vehicle, check CV joint boots. If the boots are ripped and the axle makes a clicking noise when turning, replace the CV Joint drive axle. I have seen many accidents, some with death, because people do not replace CV joint drive axles, which are easy to change. If you hear a strange droning noise when idling, the fuel pump is about to fail. But do not worry. It does not happen often and it is relatively easy to change. Oil change is every 3000 miles for me. Change differential fluid every 50,000 miles. I must be doing something right. This month my vehicle turns 425,000 miles. The original engine and transmission and axles are still running strong. I bought the vehicle new in 1996.

Also make sure when your heat meter start going to hot/ overheating...to fix the problem immediately and not continue driving your car.

Thank you!

I went to the garage to change a coil pack and charged me £150, that's a part I could have bought from ebay for £50 and changed myself in 1 minute. The only time I use a garage now is for an M.O.T, bought my own tools, a Haynes car manual and educated myself on the Web, so far I've done everything for a service multiple times, changed a gearbox, timing belts ect. Saved a load of money and have some pride in myself.

@@reikoruffneck4613 Best of all, you took the time to do it right and not have to answer to some boss screaming at you to get it out the door and get the next car. Those clock punchers take a lot of shortcuts because of the pressure they are under, to get the job done in a hurry. It is not rare to find missing bolts, crossthreaded bolts, missing covers, and lose components. It is not really the mechanics fault. They know what they are doing. They are just so rushed to get the job done and send it out the door. Anybody would mess up. I will never go to a "professional," mechanic again. Wait until you see how much you save replacing the roof on your house yourself, or changing your own water heater, or repairing and running your own plumbing. I have not hired anybody to do my service and maintenence on my vehicle or house in a very long time. I do not even have a credit card because I save so much money doing things myself that I find no need to charge the cost of an expensive repair or upgrade. People are actually fooled into thinking they can not work on their own automobile, and house. Anybody can do these repairs with schematics and directions on the Internet. One just has to be willing to do it and have some tools.

I have a Lexus and do all the maintenance myself. NEVER go near the dealer. One repair in 21 years....fuel pulse damper $20 and 20 min repair (I'm slow).

@@indridcold8433 we must be related. That's exactly they way I operate. I use to say I can pay someone to mess it up or I could mess up three times and it'd be cheaper and I learned something. The internet is a wealth of information for someone willing to try to do it themselves.

I agree with you but if the car has design issues, no amount of personal care and love will cure it. I'm talking about my Odyssey with VCM engine.

This great advice. Something I tell anyone that ask how to prolong their cars life. I tell them you wouldn’t wake up and get out of the bed and sprint down the street to get your coffee.

@@alexgrindnshine2522 but the car companies themselves say you dont have to do this...who am i supposed to believE

@@andy_182car companies say that warming your engine while idle isn’t needed, you can immediately start driving but slowly until the car engine is in working temperature which what the op is saying here

Man this is sooooooo true! And for me it's just respecting the machine. NOTHING just gets up and runs optimally from a cold start. Not even machines. Especially when it's cold

The oil properties don't lubricate well until the oil is at operating temp or approaching operating temp. Its always good to warm up your vehicle, if you want it to last. The reason why they say that is because of pollution.

Every weekend?

@@enricopallazzo3244 just about every weekend because I work in the city. My job is about an hour and half away, therefore it is crucial for me to keep up with the maintenance and to check for any faulty parts. I would hate to be stranded far away from home. Yes, I do have AAA but in reality I wouldn’t want to use it. I’m my case, it’s essential to inspect my car every weekend. Your situation could be different if you commute time isn’t much. Normally, people should inspect their vehicles at least once a month.

@@TheEdgar707 Cool, well done sir.

I like your preventative inspections and maintenance. I do that as well but I should increase the frequency. I do it, may be once in 3 months. I drive about and hour and a half each way. that is about 3 hours a day. so, what you do makes a lot of sense to me. taking care of it is better than waiting to be broken on the road.

What specifically do you do every weekend? What parts do you check? Thanks.

just like a vagina. A little spit or ky lube mevwr hurt nobody. Gotta keep the good stuff moiat and lubed up for qll the parts to function.

I've started filling it until it soaks up and gets full saturation then install it cuz it's horizontal

This has been proven in engine tests here on RU-vid. Not filling the filter incurs a wear penalty on first startup.

I drive Camry 1995 about to hit 300000 miles

😭😭

That's what she said

No wonder my car broke down i left it at idle for 24hrs strait

I never warmed up the car in idle in winter as recommended by manufacturers because of air quality concerns. I was proved right in time when manufacturers recommended start and drive after the 90's. Oil change interval recommendations are conservative and designed to keep the dealers in money.

I had to leave mine idling for years. I would run into the store and grab what I needed, then bought it and went on. At home I would shut it off, or if it was a long stop. It took some years to figure out the problem. The shop said they could not figure out a "part time" problem. It turned out to be a problem with the security system, that wouldn't let it start. It was called a Pass-Lock.

According to what I've seen, idling incurs about 25 miles of wear per hour. Just no reason to do it. Shut it off and save fuel. You're not saving anything by letting it run, you're only costing yourself. Look at Prius and other hybrids today. They shut off constantly when the engine isn't needed.

I remember as a kid that my dad and all my freinds dads had their own special place under the hood where they stashed their oil checking rag!

Shame so many cars are removing dip sticks

The gm engines with active fuel management use about a quart between oil changes, or my 2010 Silverado with the 5.3 did, and it did it from new…

Unless you town heavy stuff, it leaks, or it's dark, no need to bother changing differential oil.

Im sorry to ruin your joke(?) If you dont start your engine in a long time the pistons will rust to the cylinder. Having this problem on my fiat 850 );

@@juippi420 yeah 😅☺️ Scotty will tell you Fiat is a piece of junk too 😅😅😅

Forgot to include the picture of a horse with a big smile

It actually wont. The engine will seize up.

SHIFTY poor engine 🤣😂🤣😂👍

Dang! I don't have a Celica either. Sorry for wasting your air, guys.

I have 1000 years exprience and own 100 toyota celicas i can take miles off cars by just looking at them

@@badhorse1640 cue the sound of crickets.

@@csn6234*cricket* *noises*

@@badhorse1640 Aw. Did I hurt your feelings? You can do better than that, buddy.

I was wondering how long before I saw a comment on that🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂

😂 jiji

Michael Scott approves!

Lack of lubrication!!!

Vete ala verga weyyyy jajajajaj

What mileage did you change your timing chain?

@@jaymitchell955 I've done a timing set at 105,000 and I've pushed them to 225,000 miles. On a Lincoln Town Car, Grand Marquis, or Crown Victoria 2000 down to 1992 (91 Town Car), these timing sets last 350,000-400,000 miles if the car has had good engine oil changes. These have metal timing tensioners and the chain guides have metal spines supporting them. 2001, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11 will need changed immediately if you hear grinding or popping from the front of the engine. Otherwise if the 01-11 has had good oil changes, you'll be safe till 200,000 miles, but do it sooner if you hear grinding or rubbing from the front of the engine, or if you start to notice little ground up pieces of metal and plastic in the used engine oil. On the early 4.6 engines you could easily get by with going 400,000 miles on a timing set, but on the 01+, I'd start getting nervous around 200,000 miles with 10-13 years of age. Age makes these brittle. In other words you could have a 2011 right now with 423,659 miles and that timing set would still be OK as long as they use full synthetic engine oil and changed it every six to eight thousand miles. Now on 2003+, if you hear a loud clatter sound on cold start up that goes away in 1 to 2 seconds, that's due to the plastic timing chain tensioner's spring getting weak with age. This is the sound of the timing chain slapping the chain guide on the driver's side until oil pressure builds up and presses against the timing tensioner and makes the chain tight. The solution is to buy a new timing set and only buy the ones with a metal tensions, because they have a little ratcheting arm that keeps the chain of tight in the absence of oil pressure, so when you start up the car the chain is already tight and will not slap around and bust the guides. Early release 03 Town Cars, Crown Victorias, and Grand Marquis with the 4.6 engine that have the white X with two or three dots above the X means that this car already has metal tensioners installed under a silent recall when these cars were new. These markings are on the front of the valve covers on both sides. Cars with the metal tensioners will usually last 350,000-400,000 miles before you need to do the timing set, but this is assuming proper oil changes. Remember these are interference engines and if that timing chain on either side jumps more than two teeth, you could start to run into damage to the engine. Also if your car has been severely overheated you might consider doing a timing set because that will make the nylon timing chain guides and tensioner arms very brittle and prone to cracking and breaking. The risk that you run by not doing the timing chain set every 200,000 miles or so is that the chain guides can crack and pieces of them can fall off and clogged up the oil pump pickup screen, also the chain can slap around and be loose and jumped a tooth or two or three on a crankshaft or camshaft sprocket and destroy the engine. I'd do it at 200,000 miles if the inside of the engine looks very clean when you remove the oil filler cap and look down on top of the engine head. I have seen multiple of these engines destroyed around a 170,000 mile mark from it jumping time, but these were very dirty engines and obviously 10 to 20 thousand miles on the engine oil and the car had clearly been ran low on oil many times. If you do have the cold startup clatter that goes away after about 2 seconds, and you notice that sound has changed or went away, then I would do the timing set immediately. This could indicate that the timing chain guide on the driver side of the engine pulley broke and fell. On my Panther cars, I usually change the timing sets before 200,000 miles mostly because I get tired of hearing it clatter when I start the engine. Once you switch over to the metal tensioners with the little ratcheting arm that keeps a chain tight in the absence of oil pressure, that startup clatter will never happen again.

Thank you very much !

Panther platform....no expiration date on these cars. Born to roll

Freddy Hollingsworth wow a wealth of information! I wish I could be as knowledgeable so I know when something might be wrong.

Tell that to my Tacoma I floor it off the line and I have 436k miles on her. I beat the hell out of trucks transmission I treat her like a rally truck and she still going hard

What about vtec tho? Hahah

@@ncrtransport5993 it'd last even longer if you drove it respectable.

@@lilbbbbbbb Honda should learn about torque.

@@palebeachbum umm ok lol? And I should become an engineer don't we all need to learn something

I know this is a joke but there are some people that do sell OEM part tho they are either higher in price or just right. Then you have aftermarket trash and what not.....classic ebay 😉

Bruh Iv'e been using Ebay parts for ages and have no complaints, plus it cost one third of most oem parts.

i bought genuine MAF sensor from ebay, my MPG actually improved slightly

Use say they are hit or miss with the after market.

Agreed! You can extend that way of thinking with many aspects of life. That's why I only date honest and marriage quality hookers that are virgins.

What happens when the car idles for too long?

​@@rihasanatrofolo2472it starts to overheat cuz it's only cooled by the radiator fan Look up what happens if you idle too much plus it wastes gas A startup uses 7 seconds of idle time fuel, so if you're sitting more than a minute just turn off the car I almost always avoid drive thrus unless I'm the only one in line or 1 person in front

@@tomtemple69 That sounds extreme. I keep my car running for example when we'r eating and it's cold outside. Never had an issue yet. Is it impending doom?

@@rihasanatrofolo2472 depends on how long you plan on keeping your car working in good condition, you shouldn't idle very often and no more than like 1 minute after 7 seconds of idling, you use more fuel than it takes to start a car, the engine isn't at optimal temperature for combustion, leading to incomplete combustion and carbon build up in the engine if u plan on keeping your car longer than like 150k miles, you should minimize idling, plus its just wasted gas when it's cold outside, you only need to warmup for like a minute, modern synthetic oil still performs good enough at low temperature, it just needs to be warmed up if you're gonna be revving it high and giving it a lot of throttle

@@tomtemple69 cheers

Makes good sense.

Makes GREAT sense 👍🏽

Scotty Kilmer said the same thing. Furthermore, he said that if you have more that 90K with the same fluid, then just keep it in. My BMW shop told me the same thing.

@@SBha30 I just flushed the transmission fluid on my 2001 Toyota Camry V6 with 103k miles 4 days ago. No problem what so ever. The service was done at a Toyota dealer. My friend is a mechanic and he says it's really depend on individual manufacture. Some transmission fluid can last longer than the others, and you should stick with the right fluid that was original. He wouldn't flush a transmission fluid at 200k+ miles if it haven't been flushed before.

@@SBha30 I flushed my Camry at 114k and nothing serious happened. But when it reached 175k, I drained and refilled once and then after few hundred miles, dropped the pan and changed ATF fluid and filter. Since then I have been draining and refilling with 2.5 quarts every 12k and transmission doesn't kick anymore. I think the best thing to do is keep up draining and refilling ATF fluid regularly after first 50k if you can afford.

The Engenieer should go back to school i think..Flush cause no wrong and if the transmission is in such a bad state that a flush, who will clean excessive dirt will cause leak and failure.. then the issue is the transmission bad state and not the flush.

I heard the same from family members. Drain and fill is better than flushing. Apparently the cleaners that is used to flush it damages the seals.

Why would highway miles increase oil consumption? That makes absolutely no sense at all. Where are you getting your information from?

@@GoingGoneGalt Based on experience on several cars oil consumption would be more noticeable on several long drives. On modern engines, a lot of vacuum is used to reduce sludge in the engine by sucking up hot oil vapor and burning it before it can condense again. As an add-on some folks use 'catch cans' to catch oil vapor before it reaches the throttle body.

@@mmpiforall5913 Anecdotal observation with zero data to back it up is worth as much as a congressmans promises. Highway miles with lower average RPM, temperature, and chamber pressure are always going to use less of everything.

Highway driving with higher, longer sustained rpm and miles accumulated more quickly, will burn more oil. You should definitely check it more often. Plus, you do not know, if you do not check it. It’s drivers responsibility to check fluids and tires regularly.

@@davidl766 Kiddo, I would bet that I have been driving and keeping my cars going for far longer than you have been alive. Show me one bit of data that supports your claim. One. Anywhere. And what are you driving that is drinking so much oil that you can tell where it goes?? My road warrior Civic with over a quarter million miles on the clock doesn't consume a quart in 20,000 miles. In the desert, often in 110+ degree heat. Going over a 3000' mountain climb every day. Twice.

How is your camry going? Still got it? My 2000 camry v6 is up to 240km and i want to get rid of ot but it wont die ahah

@@callanbrown7979 Unfortunately the Camry was attacked in a road rage incident by a deer (I'm in WI) and declared totaled by the insurance. It had 180,000 miles on it, ran perfect and everything worked. But the insurance company totaled it out for a pretty fair price for a model year that was 25 years old at the time. I replaced it with a 2011 Honda CR-V with 106,000 miles and in very good shape which I think is also a great vehicle and a bit more practical due to it's size, rear hatch and AWD.

TOYOTA #1

Weird flex but okay

cool....

The fluid will be varnish by now. I went through this years ago before I understood that it's a regular maintenance item. The fluid eventually turned "light brown" and "stinky". Then I found I had to push the pedal further down to keep up with traffic (sucking up fuel faster). Took it to a transmission shop for "basic service" Two days later it bogged right out to where I had to really step on it to move. Ended up having to replace with a rebuilt one. The transmission mechanic explained that the fluid is not "meant for the life of the vehicle. It must be changed every (if I remember correctly, 20,000Km) or it turns into varnish and the parts wear out quickly after that. Won't matter anymore... you can put Royal gold level ten star grade trans fluid, the clutches are shot it's game over. Good maintenance begin at "50,000" not "200,000". Also how you drive it has equal effect. I bought a truck that was owned by a corporation. The driver beat on it. Stomp on the pedal get the wheels spinning kinda thing. The trans wasn't burnt brown it was still red and decent but the damages made it so it was shot by 225,000km. Engine still perfect but $5,000 trans garbage. Truck is finished, scrap.

@@RetroCaptain you made the mistake of taking it to a mechanic Everything was working fine till you took it in😭😭

Indeed. OEM parts are not necessarily better to use. Fel-Pro, for example, makes far better gaskets than the originals used by a lot of car manufacturers.

Everyone else knows.

NEVER FLUSH UNLESS YOU KNOW THAT CAR'S HISTORY AND YOU HAVE ALWAYS FLUSHED EVERY 40K MILES OR SO. If you don't know the history and the car is high mileage have the pan dropped and DRAINED (not flushed) and have the filter replaced. Any reliable transmission shop will tell you this. Flushing can destroy the transmission IF it's high mileage and has been not well maintained with fluid changes.

@@mikejohn0088 Yes. This stood out to me as well. I find it shocking that the author of the video mentions Scotty Kilmer yet encourages full transmission flushes. Scotty says to drain and fill every 35K or so.

​@@mikejohn0088Very GOOD advice !!! Thank you.

I do this. After I pull the drain plug, next I write the mileage on the filter with a paint pen then turn it upside down/opening up in the box. I will fill it and let soak while removing old filter. I'll do the other stuff needed in oil change. I will fill a 2nd time before installing. Doesnt take much extra time.

Really overthinking it

It will get oil in it soon enough

I have been changing my own oil for 35 years. Never once have I prefilled a filter. Never once have I burned up an engine.

@@GoingGoneGalt IOW, this may well be overkill, especially in well maintained vehicles. Point taken. Theoretically, it is best, but might not make a significant difference. There are no studies to show when it might matter and when it might not matter. In theory, in some cases, it might matter. It might only help assuage one’s OCD, too. lol

Seems like a terrible idea unless you are 100% sure that’s how your car works

They last few vehicles I own have do this and they all mention it in their owner manuals under "starting a flooded engine"

I've heard not to flush your transmission. I can start to slip and fail.

@@charlesbosse9669 Yeah I’ve heard the same especially if your car has done high mileage. I think Scotty Kilmer mentioned it as well.

That's what my mechanic told me when I mentioned wanting to install a towing cooler. "You can't bypass the factory part. Have to put the cooler in circuit after it passes through the radiator, or it won't reach initial operating temperature". He said you can run it "too cold". We get below freezing temperatures in winter here. I suppose in Jamaica or Dubai, hot climates it wouldn't matter.

Exactly what I was thinking, just watched that video as well...the weeping is to keep the seal lubricated...lol, this guy was off on that comment

Your 5th point is one important advantage of having a garage 😊

Pt. #5 is la great idea---never thought of that but I'm going to start that practice!

​@@mikejohn0088😂

The trans cooler inside the radiator is more than sufficient at cooling your trans ask me how I know

A bit of overkill, but ok🤷🏽‍♂️

Thats true. The key to having your engine last is to not give it a lot of torque while driving. Don't drive it like your going to the races.

@@jopisano67 😬

All I say to those who drive fast between lights is... I will meet you at the next one. 😃

@@jopisano67 Depends. Diesel engines should get to use the torque. Its also smart to run yhem on high RPM a couple of times to regen the DPF (if it has one)

That statement is not proven.Drive your car to sluggish and it won't last long either.Engines need to be put under pressure once in a while.Obviously after warm up.

The struggle is real

Lmao 😂 oem Saab parts are still available haha, they will be for decades more

The Scotty pic was the sprinkles on top lol

I was hoping for a female to say that.

that totally caught me off guard😂

Take good care of that trans.!

You r absolutely right...here in india too,car companies say that eng.oil lasts fr 15000 kms..bur really its wrong as per all our experience...after all experience n experimenting are more 😂😂😂😂"TRUER"than mere sugfestions....we must rely on live war experience..not Pubjy games on phone..😂😂😂

Myles Mastersen I thought of that too! 😂

Because dodges are all motor. And no tranny

Loll

@@AlphaFlight yea that's true all they have is hemi lol

@@AlphaFlight good engine and garbage everything else

3:29

That was the moment I pressed like.

Toni Martinovic 😂😂😭😭hahah

lol same. i chuckled.

I wondered...

That's probably dependent on your car brand, for Honda/Toyota you cannot go wrong with OEM which lasts a long time and wears the rotors less.

Hmmm unlikely.

Don't beat yourself up when we were young we all beat up our vehicles to some extent we all have 20/20 vision in hindsight don't we. Heck I like you wish I had done the same with my first car. We live and learn.

504,000 is extremely impressive. Scotty Kilmer says your truck could last forever because of it being a Toyota with a dead reliable engine.

Scotty is a scam.. selling junk products and won't tell the truth on the history of Furd junk and fireballs thru the years

Yeah I know but it's funny tho and like I always say no all information is good information.....

I wish he were in my area also. There are no reliable techs anywhere near me. I try to do everything myself

👍😎thumbs up for Scotty Kilmer" rev up your jealousy!

...nice...synthetic oil is only for fewer oil changes...reg oil prtects jus as good..but gotta change it more often!

I'll disagree. Regular oil sludges up an engine more and on a highmileage car this can be fatal eventually. But your right about changing it less frequently.

@@muwahh98why do they make conventional oil then..whats the point?

@@edubb2491 half the price twice the oil changes. Idk ? For people who enjoy changing oil ?

synthetic also doesnt break down as fast, protecting more , longer. conventional oil is outdated. no reason to but it rly, unless ur in a tight spot

When buying a truck, get the tow package, it likely has an extra transmission oil cooler.

Will K. Yessir

But then your old oil is still in the engine

@@truth.speaker Trace amounts.

Min. of 6 months is total over kill --- change the oil every 4k-5k miles religiously and use high mileage oil after 75k miles.

David Handshoe hellyea

And it won't run right without enouph heat

I live in 110+ weather -_- (Phoenix)

VISIONARY TV he means while it’s using the engine. Temps probably get over 300 or something

Heat will kill an engine for sure,but most of them die from dirt,,,change you oil regularly and don't beat the crap out of it and any modern engine will last

Mainly because some fluid that sits in the housing contains clutch materials that have been worn off and is designed to "re-use" or more correctly make use of manufacturers and designers knowing these aspects. When the fluid is pressurized the clutch bits become "useful". When you remove All fluids you remove those materials and which is why Many people have trans issues after a power flush.

Always use the manufacturer's specified transmission fluid. I can attest to that because I didn't, and now my truck is up on blocks until I have time (and the money) to yank the transmission and repair it.

50 cents a quart, eh. You are using windshield washing fluid, sucker.

@@garymiller2056 Lol if it sounds too good to be true it probably is, anything with supposed lubricating quality that is that cheap would leave me highly concerned.

Most manufacturers do not recommend a flush. Even if some dealerships offer it. I think it says something that they'd rather you drain and fill at the specified intervals than flush.

Smart Idea to find out who actually makes oem parts.

Exactly what I do! And if I cannot find the supplier’s part, I’ll usually go with Dorman or another OEM supplier.

Those are OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts.

@@Fifthcell dorman is not high quality

Bryan Hensley I’ve been reading around and it turns out that many people have bad luck with Dorman parts... I personally have never had any problem with Dorman’s parts... they’ve always been good to me.

Yep, car is working, leave it alone. Keep fussing with the car and you will break it!

When Scotty says don't flush he means don't go to a Jiffy Lube or some other shop where they use a pressurizing machine to clear it out. This however guy is recommending is more or less just a drain and fill which is okay

Change it. Don't flush it.

@@ncrtransport5993 You are correct.

Drain N fill

Spot on, a poor break in can lead to problems no matter how well a car is maintained thereafter.

Gravemind all new vehicles I get I redline and beat to death. So far they are all alright

Hey bro. Can i use 0w40 instade of recommended 5w40 for skoda 1.9tdi engine? Mobil1 0w40 is great oil.

@@1.9tdilove71 sorry for the late response. You can use it. If the car has a particulate filter you need the 0w40 esp oil from Mobil 1.

@Rodrigo Novais exactly!

@@xcofcd Thank you. Car is not having dpf. Which would be good oil 0w40, 5w30 or 5w40 for 1.9tdi diesel?

@@1.9tdilove71 I'd use only the Mobil 1 0w40. I had it in all my BMWs diesel and gasoline and never had any problems with engines. My Diesel at the moment has 430.000km and even has the first turbocharger. More important than the brand is changing the oil regularly and much earlier as the recommended interval. And don't use the typical longlife oils like 5W30 they're all more designed to save fuel than to minimize wear in the engine. The number before the W tells you the viscosity of the oil when cold. When you live in Norway where its cold for example a 0W oil is much better than a 5 or 10W as the oil gets everywhere in the engine much quicker on cold starts...