This is great man, thanks for these "how to" videos, really helpful as I want to learn to outfit my boats :). Would love to see a video of how to make the leg risers
@@WadeHarrison I'd love to see a video of dialing in a modern pyranha creek boat with the stout 2 outfitting. I have both a 9r and machno and have never felt like I fit completely right. I think having a foam heel block, leg risers, this style hip pads and those thigh hookers would probably be good. I'm going to try and implement all that, I just suck at getting a feel for the shapes and sizes of all the foam I need to cut.
Thank you. I’m in lockdown in Australia and haven’t been able to go to shops other then grocery shops and I was able to get a foam yoga block and cut it in half shape it a little for my new kayak which is really wide on me, people thought I was weird and strange doing this but it feels better now too paddle, I found out though when I got capsized in the surf, first time. The block floated out now I need to glue in, but you have helped me know the edging and shape I’m needing to hold me in above the hips. So thank you. Now I feel heaps better. :)
I have outfitted dozens of boats starting from the kevlar/s-glass boats to plastic. The foam he has is from the support wall is mini-cell and you can buy blocks of it. Hang on to the scraps you cut off as they make great squeegees for the weldwood wood contact cement I have always used to glue the hip and knee pads in later. Just cut the scraps into a triangular shape with a thin edge and you have nice tool for fixing your old coolers with G-flex epoxy or spreading bondo on you old car. I agree the key is to make the "wedge" looser on the bottom for comfort on your hips and then tighter and hider on top and even with the rim of the cockpit. You can always sand them down later, so I make them tight and carry some "30 grit" sandpaper with you when boating first few times so you can adjust them further if too tight. I would lightly rough sand the back and the boat side with some 100 grit sandpaper before you apply the contact cement so the cement can get a good bond. I use a drywall knife for the first cuts, sure form if I have one and then 30-60 grit sandpaper wrapped around a block of mincell foam. I use the weldwood red can contact cement and apply like repairing hypalon rafts, 2 thin coats minimum and let each coat dry to beyond tacky, like 15 minutes or more. Less is more when it comes to glue. I mark the outline of the hip pads so I know where to spread the glue on the boat. Work in shaded area, no direct sun. Use PPE, gloves and chemical respirator with fresh filters. No need to duct tape anything if you prep this right and let the glue dry between coats. You can smooth it out with 100 grit, but really it does not matter and has a better grip when left fuzzy. When you get into a tight fit, you tilt your hips and do one side first then the other, mindfulness matters and then they last forever. Otherwise they can rip out if you just force your hips in. You want a nice exaggerated "hook" shape with rounded shape to catch just above your hip bones to hold you in when upside down and being trashed in a violent hole.
@@WadeHarrison Thanks! Everyone is different in our body shape and preference on tightness. Not sure the "one size" fits all approach a kayak maker might include is gonna be good enough for most of us boaters that want a really tight secure fit. The boats are made so wide now to accommodate bigger people, I think probably a custom fit for hips and thighs is the best way to really get both comfort and control.
All my boats have homemade hip and thigh pads. Have never had a boat that feels like a comfy couch. Anyway, don't forget to trim the top of the pad so it doesn't interfere with the skirt fitting. Nice tutorial,
I miss the days of fiberglass cloth, resin, kicker and fiberglass dust in a run-down old garage. I've used closed cell to make hip and knee braces pretty much just like you're making them. Just make sure they're smooth and not likely to catch clothing when you bail.
Great video, one question: How do you get a smoother surface finish on the pads? They look rough-cut and not quite finished. Can you sand them smooth or does the material remain "hairy" even after sanding? Thanks!
I remember from watching a kayak shop do it back in the 90s that the last step was to go over it quickly with a torch to seal the pores and smooth it out.
Yes. I don’t have anything in my kayak for thighs. I cut up and glued in gym mats layered. My hubby had some glue in a can like yours. Never knew about glue in a spray until then, it foamed up.his too American but lived in Australia with me.
Hi , I’m new to WW kayaking . As an older guy (54) , I find the hip pads hurt after just a little time . Is there a softer solution that wouldn’t cause so much pain . My boat = Jackson Z3 EDIT : I’m not concerned with aesthetics , just comfort & control
Nice id! What size? I've got a 6.9 that I bend my bones into every now and then. It's not as handsome as your's though, solid dark blue with painted bow.
