I do it like my door skin removal and take some needle nose vise grips and roll up like a tuna can top and don’t go past the seam sealer so u don’t have to edge in 😢
I purchased a hood it's carbon is 1 layer top and fiberglass skelleton, . Can I add more layers to reinforce the hood and make it non see through? Or do I have to have it remade.
So I've seen this in SOOOOO many of your videos and do not understand this at ALL. I was always under the impression that when you do carbon body parts like a hood in this example that you would need to make a mold of the hood first then put the carbon down into the mold in order to get the part the same size. Yall are putting the carbon on top of the existing part then cutting out the underside and bonding it to the underside of the carbon. Doesn't this overall make the carbon part slightly larger in size than the original because you stacked the carbon on the outside of the part vs making a mold and then filling the mold with the carbon part? Is it just so small of a difference that it doesn't matter? I'm trying to figure out if I could pull off making a full carbon bodied Factory Five Type 65 Daytona coupe R. The shell is currently just fiberglass and in a couple pieces. This is much easier to deal with than a car where you have to cut out the panels and bond the carbon onto it. I think if I just do carbon over it making the few big pieces out of carbon it would make the parts slightly larger than original as the inside dimension of the carbon would be the outside dimension of the original. Any thoughts on this?
That is true, however this is just a skin that is going on top, they just sanded the sides down to the same size (width/depth) of the OEM hood. In other cases, yes you would need to make a mold, then lay carbon in the mold to ensure it was factory size.
@@mattspangler170 so with the Dayton coupe the shell is just that a fiberglass shell (kit car) so the process they’re doing wouldn’t really work correct? Because the inside dimension would be off so mounting it to the car maybe render the dimensions off just enough to not line up with certain things. If so, damn idk if I’d have it in me to try and make a giant mold in order to do it. That would be SOOO much work. But I guess all I’m looking for is the look as it’s light already so maybe I could just skin it by putting it over the body or maybe I’ll just do a cool “forged carbon” look. That would be unique.
The hood was already light so In this application I know for a fact I didn’t lose much lol. But with the older cars and steel panels they for sure would gain some weight loss.
How hard would it if been to just make the inner shell out of carbon aswell? I know it would of been more work but you would of evaded the corrosion problem.
Thanks for catching that! Here's a link to the specific kit used in this video: industrygarage.com/collections/diy-kits/products/diy-carbon-fiber-kit-large. Also, here's a link to all the Fibre Glast x Industry Garage kits we offer: industrygarage.com/collections/diy-kits
Hello Tim, I found a all Original 1974-ish BMW 2002 for sale a couple months ago, it still for sale. Car been parked for unknown time, located in Arizona.
@@StreetBandito I don’t it’s at a yard but I can take pictures or videos. I asked about it and they want $7500 but I can try to get it cheaper. I know how much the got because it was on Fb market for $2500 from a old lady in town. Let me know if your interested, oh yeah 4 speed looks like everything is there just a clean up will do.
Was there a reason why you guys decided not to add a thin layer of fiberglass as the first layer? I'm constantly thinking of where all the spots will need a layer of fiberglass when I'm planning out my motorcycle, for that exact reason of galvanization. Swing arm pivots for the bearings, Frame side plates to the main frame, swingarm, and engine. Fuel tank, etc. And some of these connection parts would act as a ground too.
What betting site is that??? 8:49 I’m trying to get another base 350z hr and a 350z Nismo. Then, Im gonna boost my current Z to the moon. Update: Nvm, Is bring a trailer good for finding cars?
Love your videos This is exactly what I need am going to do to my bonnet, Typically my bonnet is wider longer than the cloth sheet Was wondering if I would be able to make the carbon skin with the scoop all in one piece ?
This is an "Xavier Time Stamp" for my best knowledge to circumstances considering subscribers don't watch that much, and those that watch, for the long run, subscribe to giving viewership, past subscribers. What happened to him in recent uploads considering i am both a non-subscriber and a viewer over-time. Im only 138-140 comm. before it turns to to 10x the amount over the same time.
did you guys glue arounf the ribs as well as the outer edge? i know you guys know what youre doing, just looking out! hood acts like parachute even once you add the hood vents, having the cross ribbing glued to shell as well add to the entire strength of the hood not deskinning. love the vidz! keep making fire content!
I love this content. Informative, yet not over produced. I am considering making some parts my 1965 mustang ratrod. I love building with composites, hate Kevlar though. So itchy. Keep it up boys! Thank you for the hard work.
Make a Honda logo. Put it on the car then paint the car. Then remove the logo so the logo is carbon that would be a great little touch since your painting the hood
It looks like you only epoxy glued the two pieces together around the perimeter. Are you concerned that there would be aerodynamic flutter on the unglued sections in the middle at high speed? Thank you.
We can! Please email us which kit you're interested in having shipped and your full address. We will get back to you with a full quote. Sales@industrygarage.com
Does this not make the dimensions slightly bigger since you’re laying it OVER the origional body panel as opposed to a nagative which would give you the exact same dimensions?
I would say it depends on the shape of the panels you’re copying, in this case the oem shape/ surface of the s2000 hood is kinda flat which makes the dimensions difference neglectable, if you’re copying a hood with lots of curves then the dimensions difference might caused an issue for you
Curious how you keep the carbon fiber from lifting off the part? I've had this issue before when skinning parts. It's one of the reasons I started making molds and using vacuum bagging. Thanks
OK, question. I thought the purpose of CF hood was to reduce weight. What was the weight of the skin of OEM hood? What is the weight of the OEM frame after the skin was cut off of the OEM hood. How difficult is it to make a fiberglass mold of the OEM frame, and then from the fiberglass mold, make a CF frame? If the goal is to reduce weight, I would think bonding the CF hood shin to a CF frame would yield the best weight reduction goals, while increasing stiffness as well? I am considering doing this for some of my track car body panels as well.
lol what the fuck. why didn't you guys just use the stock hood as a mold and do a bag infusion on the skeleton so that the ENTIRE hood could actually be carbon. instead of destroying a rare stock S2000 hood?????? That's kind of fucked up because those hoods are not remotely easy to find
