UPDATE: The hyperflashing you saw after the install is fixed. I posted a short video on Instagram here showing what I did: instagram.com/p/CDrn40DBr2m/. Thanks for all the comments and feedback!
Man. First time here. Video not so interesting for me, just Google threw it to me. But your ending, I loved it. It was cool, reminding me 30 years ago, I lost that guts to just do it today, too shy!!!
Wish I had watched this video yesterday. I was guessing but guessed right the first time. I was using a test light and trying to ground the light to the body of RV. I see a volt meter in my future! Amazon now has the exact replacement for your old lights. I got them for $35. Nice video!
Great level of detail, left nothing to question... how refreshing. Don’t know why anyone would downvote, unless other RU-vidrs jealous of this video’s effectiveness :). Thanks much! Perfect!
Nice vid! We had a 2016 thor Vegas and I had to change all lights to LEDs. The tail lights were leaking and rotting wall. Used same ones. New rig is all Led and sealed nice. I still remember 1st time seeing led on a circuit board I was working on in Navy! Funny song! Ha
Wuzzat you singing, Brian? What talent!! Great vid - my only comment is that, when I am positioning something like that, I install the top center screw first, and then level and drill and install the other screws... overall, just as enjoyable as all of your videos - keep them coming!
Its great that you found the exact replacement lights. I assume you have reflectors elsewhere on the back of the RV as I saw none on the taillights. I have Bargman lights on the back of my trailer and yes, the backup WAS incandesent combined with the reflector. They did make a backup/reflector in LED and discontinued it. They make and I bought a reverse light that is 13 LEDs that is extremely bright, but you lose the relector when you install it. The Backup light is a 5 minute replacement as it has a bayonet bulb base on the wires, you simply plug it in the socket and run the screws in. I did add some Grote brand reflectors plus DOT tape across the bumper. I consider reflector very important as they can prove to be brighter than lights to vehicles behind you, reflectors are a real attention getter. Also please encourage people to be careful with power screwguns and finish the last turn or two with a hand screwdriver, so as to not strip the holes out. I saw that you did that, but you didn't mention it. Power screwguns are way overused in videos nowdays.
That's so funny! My class C is a used 2016 with conventional lights that suffered leaks. So I made the change, too! I admit, envy was involved as well. Lol
Always great videos. I can't believe that I actually upgraded my tail lights before you did (the joys of having a slightly older rig). I went with the Bargman that you mentioned (didn't notice that the back up light was not LED at the time). I did need to cut the openings a little larger for the ones I got. I love the more modern look. Only negative I have about the Bargman lights, is that their wire colors were opposite of the original; so I had to re-wire them after I figured that out.
Great result I actually going to order a set of those today we have a 2006 jayco travel trailer that is well taken care of inside but I wanted to go around and replace exterior lights to update thx
I recently swapped out the tail lights on our 2018 Winnebago Micro Mini travel after what I thought was a bad bulb connector on the passenger side. All worked but the brake light on that one side, and since it was a bulb I wanted to upgrade to LEDs like our Jayco 5th wheel has. Much brighter and don’t get hot! I found our replacements, by the same company, on Amazon for about $60.00 for both. In my case I found that the only difference between the new and old was the ‘innards’ with one type a bulb and the new type LED. So I used the new innards in the older housings and used the new lenses as they fit the same, clip on over the screwed on base. I totally agree about not having any directions in the packaging! And while yes, the back of the housing had a wiring by color set up, their colors didn’t match our trailer wiring colors. But, I did as you had done and identified the wiring myself and then it was a breeze. It turned out the problem wasn’t the socket as even with the new install the brake light STILL didn’t work on the passenger side! It turned out to be a connection in the main junction box at the trailer tongue when I started to track the problem down. The LEDs look great and are brighter. Maybe I’ll swap out all the marker lights from bulb to LED bulbs or all new housings next?
I'll try and find a way to squeeze that in :) Lots of the background music when I use it is me playing. This one has a short section while wiring up the light.
Glad you was able to get something from E-Trailer that worked as supposed to. I ordered a portable solar panel from them in March I think it was. One of the connectors had a loose wire that had never been attached to the connector. I called them and they had me Email them pictures of it. The next day they emailed and said it would be shipped in48 hour’s and an email with tracking number would be sent at the same time. When I hadn’t heard anything by June, I tried calling them and only got recordings. I emailed them with no response. I still haven’t heard anything or received a replacement. Had lots more stuff I was going to order from them, but will be ordering from a company that has better customer service.
RAM JAM what ????? I wasn't expecting that!! Nice outro music !!! Love it !!! Also. I was cringing when you cut the old tail lights off and sacrificed about an inch of wire. I keep my wires as long as possible when cutting off old devices. You can always cut more off, but you can't put it back on........... but that's just me. I'm anal about wire length. Have been caught too many times with wires that are too short to work with. Cheers !!
Thanks Ray! Hehe just goofin around. I considered layin down a beat, a bass track and guitar, but nah. Too much work as you know. I just beated on a box and screamed at my computer...done :) And...not to worry...there's still enough length to splice some wire in if needed.
Awesome job of matching them to the old style. I think they look great. You might want to hire someone to create a new outro though. Black Betty - showing your age.
Great upgrade. Why didn't you upgrade the license plate light too? Once that's done the RV will still look vintage, but with the new lighting, it will look like a new RV that all the manufacturers are trying to create that vintage look with their new models. Love the ending! You got some skills with music too!
The only problem with a sealed LED unit like that is that when the electronics fail, you won't be able to simply change out a bulb. Although the LED's themselves will usually last forever, the electronic components often fail ( diodes, resistors, capacitors, etc) You could have also installed LED replacement bulbs in your existing housings. They definitely do look nice though.
The song at the end is priceless! Ha! Hey do you ever use those Wago connectors on 120v/higher-amp in the RV? Like the A/C connections for example? It says they can handle 12awg and up to 20amps. Do they make any higher amp versions, like 30 or 50amps? Can't find that on Amazon that they do...
I haven't seen larger sizes of the Wago connectors. You could use them on AC circuits as well, but I haven't had the need to. Glad you enjoyed the song :)
Brian thanks, I am with you on leds. As others mentioned you may want to solder a resister in-line on the right & left blinker wires. Removes the “Hyper flash”on auto, truck suv, RV etc More impactful than the taillights is to buy the led headlights. As I recall Ford is one led bulb for low and high beam. GM is two separate led bulbs. ( four to a set) Unless you have the old sealed beams like my RV has. I’m looking for those now plus the two fog lights. Headlights can be purchased as a entire set. Read the reviews and go with the best reviews. Mine were not the most expensive option. But reviews were great. And the nighttime illumination is, well like night and day! I went with Sealight brand. For blinker and side marker I used the sylvania online app for leds on my different applications. So far I put the sealight headlights on a Tahoe, Toyota Sienna, and Ford E250 motovan. They are so much brighter than OEM halogens. Also the newer led headlights are thinner and better broadcasting the light. As time goes by I’m replacing dash with red leds, Red dash is easy on the eyes at night. In addition interior incandescent lights of autos and RV with leds. Much better brighter light than the incandescent and I am assuming the leds consume less power put out less heat.
Haven't thought of the dash lights. I'll have to look into that. I've found a pair of LED lamps for my headlights for $39 for the pair. Looks like an easy install. Right now I'm heading out to pick up a new flasher relay to fix the hyper flash thing. I've already removed the old one.
I’m not sure who all puts red dash panel lights but both of our bmw dash lights were oem red. I used the sylvania online bulb app to id the bulb # then found them in bulk 10-20 per box on amazon.
I went back to bulbs cause I had a LED short out which also took out my turn signal switch. On a long road trip it makes more sense swapping out a bulb over having to order a light and waiting for it. I kept the 3rd brake light LED though.
Do you have a video on how to use a voltage meter, or any guidance on where to learn how to use one? I have a Sperry voltage meter and the extent of my knowledge is using it to see if the wires in my house have 110volts.
Hmmmm . . . sawdust and epoxy, good idea! I usually use toothpicks and glue..... but I'm not working on our camper, I leave that to hubby. I'm sure my method wouldn't work for that anyway. lol Great ending! :O) Thanks for sharing!
Nice look. i noticed they were flaashing fast, you might need to fit an inline resistor or fit a different relay if you want to slow the flash rate down? Good job
Great video. Just a thought... Although LED bulbs have very little heat, the seam you filled, may have been for ventilation. Might have left the bottom seam open.
I wasn't thinking about heat buildup but I did wonder about letting air in and out as you change altitude. I had a hermetically sealed cooler lid that deformed when we crossed the Rockies.
This is awesome! I got the same LED upgrade and was wondering about the wiring being slightly different. Both original incandescent and replacement modules I have are command electronics. New has two red wires and a purple along with the two black and one white. Thinking this one through and I know I need new screws to replace rusted ones along with silicone.
Really cool! I'm jealous. One question about your saw dust concoction, the ladder on the back of my motorhome has two loose screws. I was thinking to fill the holes with silicone or glue. Any feedback would be appreciated.
That would help. I'd squeeze some wood glue in there to start and let it dry overnight first. It might hold better than silicon. There are products you could buy at your hardware store that would work good also. This metal mesh stuff that you cut and stuff in the hole will give your screw some hold. It also depends on the condition of the wood. If it's soft (from water damage) then anything you put in there will probably not hold long term.
@@RVwithTito I've had good luck with dipping one or more toothpicks in glue (epoxy if available) and forcing it into the hole then sanding it down flush. As you say, it's only as durable as the wood around it.
Hi Sir. Love your videos. Check out the Power Probe 3 sometime, it is a great tool for electrical work. I am a DIYer and it is very useful. Keep up the good work. I have a 2001 Chateau Class C like seeing your upgrades.
I recently bought this very same Partsam LED taillight set. Of course, it did not come with any kind of wiring diagram. I went through every wire one by one to figure out the function. I hope this is helpful to anyone else who bought the Partsam taillight. the [brown/green] and [black/yellow] are the taillights and turn indicator. the yellow and green are brake lights. blue is backup light. White is negative.
a quick&easy for loose screw holes is to take a double ended toothpick, break in half, dip in the epoxy and push into the holes, one fat end and one tapered, let set trim flush
Awesome video Brian, keep them coming and spending my money - LOL!! Anyway, this upgrade is something I have been meaning to do with my 2008 Sunseeker. The only difference is that my taillight assemblies are mounted vertically (not horizontal like yours.) Assuming they are the same size, do you see any issue of mounting these lights in a vertical orientation?
I recently replaced my incandescent tail lights on my travel trailer with led units. In bright sunlight, it was hard to check the lights so I can imagine what other motorist were or were not seeing. Ironically, I kept the old incandescent units as backups because these leds are not easy to come by at local rv stores.
@@RVwithTito these RV tail light units (incandescent or led) have the quality IMO of something bought from a bargain store. That is the reason I kept the originals as a back up. My travel trailer left side tail light has those plastic hangers for the license plate and those are questionable over time. I had similar types on my boat trailer and almost lost my license plate while towing the boat! Thank goodness for tape and cable ties!
Hi Brian. Completely off topic: every time I watch your videos I want to find the camping spot that you show in your intro (1:12). Would you mind sharing where that location is. Thanks , John
It's in BC Canada. The spot is located on a reservation somewhere near Harrison Lake. It was where we filmed our interview for the RVers TV show. Peter (from the RV Geeks) got this cool drone footage so I made sure I got a copy. Pretty cool shot eh?
I did a rear bulb to LED swap a few years ago and it canceled out my cruise control. Replaced them back with the old incandescent and cruise control worked. Not sure what the fix would be, any ideas?
The reason it cancelled the cruise control is because the LED bulbs don't have the same resistance as an incandescent bulb. The vehicles computer thinks you have a blown out bulb back there and the cruise won't set unless both brake lights work.
So I installed the same lights on my RV, everything worked except when I turn my headlights on, then the turn signals and flashers will not work, thoughts?
