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Hi. Great videos and top instructions. I’m looking at converting my loft space in a 2 bed Victorian mid terrace, cut rafter roof. Just to confirm, is adding timber under the rafters the same as sistering and would I need to do anything at the wall plate end to support the extra weight of the roof and the rafters just sit on the wall plate. Would I need to add collar supports at the top ridge of the roof?
Can i leave the existing 4x2 and put 50mm pir inside (plus 50mm air gap behind the insulation) and put an additional 100mm insulation on top of the rafters? That would give a total of 150mm as per modern standards, plus i wouldnt need to make the rafters thicker which seems like a lot of work. Thanks in advance.
you can install insulation between the rafters not forgetting to allow for an air gap and then install another layer to the underside of the rafters and tape all the joints which will also then deal with any cold-bridging from the rafters. Obviously thicknesses need to comply with current regs. Also remember that if you have bitumen felt like in the video then i believe you will also need some form of roof ventilation because unlike the modern roofing underlay, bitumen felt is not breathable
Hey bud...my roof has tiles and mortar joints, and it parts it all falls off and makes right mess,, we had some work done and most of the roof has a breathable membrane now, but a smal part still old roof and mortar, whats the best way to line that part ?
Hi and thanks for commenting. I’m not really sure there is a best way other than removing tiles and putting on a breathable membrane to match the rest of the roof. You could maybe try a good mastic or a low expansion foam but that would only be temporary. All the best 👍🏻
Thanks. Are you aware if this is glued and screwed it would count as structural for building regs to save sistering the rafter with new deeper rafters? Thanks
Hi and thanks for commenting. The reason for additional timber is for structure but mainly to increase the depth of void to allow us to get the 100mm insulation in between the rafters and maintain the required minimum 50mm air gap. 👍🏻
@@mrabuilders6723 Thanks, yes knew it was insulation but wondered whether or not a structural engineer would count this as a valid structural element compared to sistering the rafters if that makes sense.
He's only adding around 10kg per m² to the rafters, that's between 5 and 10% of the live load the roof was designed to carry anyway. And the dead load of the ceiling joist hangers has been removed. So there's no reason to strengthen the rafters apart from round the roof windows.
@sally6457 This is true. Was thinking more about my situation where I will need to remove the purlin, struts and ties. I've decided to sister my rafters side by side anyway as some of them are too warped it wouldn't work.
@plummetplum sometimes it's easier and cheaper to start over, Or maybe put the new rafters in one at a time while removing the existing twisted ones, where there's a will, (and a hammer) there's a way. Fisher fixings do sell screws designed for increasing joist depth, if I can find the link I'll share it.
What's with every youtube builder and these overly complicated tools? Finding those angles is so easy, and doesn't require special roofing sqares or milwaukee angle finding levels. Hold a short piece of 2x2 under the rafter, and mark a level and a plumb line on it. But really, you should just use a sliding bevel against the ridge beam, or onto the top of the purlin, This is more accurate, as the ridge and purlin probably aren't exactly plumb or level.
