Making a 3D Cube effect in veneer. 

He put tape on the other side before removing

Hi! the angle used to make this pattern is 60 degrees, this is so that the resulting rhombus shape has two 60-degree corners and two 120-degree corners, if you look at the image at the end of the video you can see how three 120-degree corners and six 60-degree corners sit together (3x120 or 6x60=360degrees) to make the complete pattern. I hope this helps! -Dan

Hi, Thanks! I'm glad you like it, I buy all my veneer from www.thewoodveneerhub.co.uk and I've never had a problem, though as they do ship the veneer rolled I've found it's best to buy a bottle of their veneer softenner and flatten the sheets you want to use to stop them from curling up whilst you work, Hope this helps!

@@danieltaylordesignermaker6028 Thanks for the information!

Hi! The Scalpel is a Swann-Morton scalpel, specifically a Number 3 handle and number 10A blade. The blades do not stay sharp very long when cutting veneer but with how cheap they are to replace this hasn't been a problem for me and I like using a smaller sclpel blade rather than a large knife as it makes it easier to see what I'm doing.

Hi! Yes I have had several issues with buckling veneers in the past, in-fact you can see in this video (5:03) that this piece had quite significant buckling. After this I sought some advice from other woodworkers and the best solutions I found, and which have worked great for me since, have been: 1) Switching to titebond glue rather than PVA. it’s an aliphatic resin glue and from my experience it tends to affect the wood slightly less, it also dries harder and, as it’s thicker, is less likely to “bleed through” whilst clamping. 2) Use less glue! You can see in this video I add far too much glue, all that excess glue has moisture in so makes any swelling or buckling much worse. 3) Don’t leave clamped for too long. This seems counter-intuitive but it works! When the laminate is clamped air cannot get to the face of the veneer, this means the moisture from the glue has nowhere to go and soaks into the wood, causing it to swell and buckle. If the piece is released from the clamps after 2 hours the glue will have already set the design in place, and will cure much quicker in open air, giving the veneer much less time to absorb moisture and swell. (the box lid in the video was clamped for 24+hours and I think this is the main reason for the swelling seen) I have also seen people create their own heat-stick veneers like you describe above, but I’ve never done it myself so can’t comment on how well it works! I use a veneer softener to flatten curved veneers when I buy in rolls, but don’t use any other conditioner no. I just use an off-the-shelf option form online. Hope this helps! -Dan

@@danieltaylordesignermaker6028 thanks for the response! Great advice! Currently, I'm doing some designs that require smaller pieces, and usually that means each piece is literally hand cut to fit perfectly... Not exactly easy but here's some unsolicited advice regarding process. A lot of times I'll cut the final cut with an under bevel and a bit longer than needed because of the measure twice thing but also because the under bevel hides the other cut which probably isn't perfect anyways, while not adding thickness. This really helped all my pieces look flawless (not really just way more proud of them). Additionally, I started using CA for these projects and haven't looked back. It's much easier for a bunch of little pieces than one large veneer, to use CA, I think... But for repairs that require smaller pieces, CA glue works great!

Hi! I buy all my veneer in pre-cut sheets, so I don't thickness it myself. The thickness I buy is 0.7mm, which I believe is fairly standard for decorative veneers.

I can use 0.3 mm.?