Making a Barbute (Re-Edit) 

Thanks very much for the kind feedback! Do you have a website?

I used to have a website, but took it down to save money several years go.

Thank you very much :-).

Thank you very much, I appreciate it :-)

My pleasure!

Thank you very much :-)

Thank you!

Since I made this helmet in 2010, I now use welding as a means of creating a general form that I then finish out with hot raising. The origins of this method began in the bringing out of the back of this barbute :-).

+NoFace Adams Thanks very much!

Halberds Thank you!

I have a copy in fiberglass of the original. I think it is one of the best helms ever.

Seargent Pancakes with the exception that a 15th century knight would use a Roman spear xD 👌🏻

+wwg5079 I do work using historical and non-historical methods. It really depends on how much a client is willing to pay. But yes, this barbute has been used in HEMA fighting for about 6 years now. It certainly has some dents, dings and repairs on it, but it still does its job ;-).

Thank You :-)

Thanks Parker!

Thank you

Thank you.

Step 1: read Step 2: empty your wallet

danke

Toys are acquired through a mixture of time, effort and money ;-).

I use a cast lead block to set my round-headed rivets. The use of lead blocks in smithing is a time-honored technique, but some people aren't comfortable with its presence in the shop due to its toxicity. There are pneumatic rivet setting heads which can be used as well. Instead of putting them in a pneumatic tool, just clamp it in your bench vise and place the round head of the rivet into the tool's dimple and hammer the interior of the rivet as normal. Of course, you can always just make a rivet setting tool out of scrap steel rod and a careful application of a drill and ball burr ;-).

Thank you.

Thank you :-).

Thanks for the feedback! There are other videos on my channel showing my raising capabilities, but usually my clients prefer the cost-effective methods allowed by welding. I appreciate the sentiment and I hope to have more videos this next year :-).

Thank you.

Thanks very much. There is a video showing a fully raised helmet that's in the works ;-).

Parker Brown Will look out for that then..cheers.

I think I might have answered my own question, but was it Iron Monger Armory, perhaps?

Yes, it was :-).

I have seen people cut the bottom off of steel fire extinguishers and use that, as many have a dished bottoms and it is thick heavy gauge steel.

This is a fully functioning piece. It is my own personal helmet that I've used in martial arts for over two years and it has protected me from a countless number of blows from wooden and steel weapons.

Nicky Critic www.crescentmoonarmoury.net/Crescent_Moon_Armoury/Custom_Helmets/Pages/Milanese_Barbute.html

Thanks very much! The top of the helmet is 12 ga. while the sides are 14 ga.

Thank you! A custom fit barbute like this with a historical interior liner would run around $1,000. You can find more of my work on the website listed on my RU-vid channel page :-).

Thank you! No, that's not a laser, it's a TiG welder. It uses an electrical plasma arc to melt only a portion of the metal to produce a weld.

Parker Brown thank for your patience

bc c Most people don't realize that the vast majority of an armour's cost is the labor, not the material :-).

1. As stated in the video, it took 43 hours to produce. This helmet was not done in one go. I worked on it in my spare time between other projects and it took 4 months. But the actual production time came to 43 hours. 2. The cost of materials is very cheap...less than $100. My tools have been collected over many years and are valued in between $20,000 to $30,000. Some individual tools have been hand made by me. Other tools have been major investments costing $4,000. The price of the final helmet is stated on my website at $1,042 www.crescentmoonarmoury.net/Crescent_Moon_Armoury/Custom_Helmets/Pages/Milanese_Barbute.html

+Kalel: Design features from the barbute have been used in a variety of icons of popular culture. I did another barbute in 2013 that was also an homage to the helmet worn by Magneto: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sHup_elfygE.html

Only if you pay me to do it ;-). Right now I'm not taking any new commissions as I already have an extensive backlog of work.

I don't use sandpaper per se, instead much of the finish work is done with 3M 2" wide 72" long sanding belts in 60, 80, 120 and 220 grits. At the time of this project, I would do much more finishing on the belt sander and then take it straight to a polisher using bobbing compound, but now I do an intermediary step using 80, 120, 300 and then 400 grit Satin Glo compound using separate dedicated cloth wheels. This produces a much more even finish.

Rust prevention is about constant moisture control. This helmet (which is now almost 10 years old) has been kept rust-free by always keeping a can of either Rem Oil gun oil or CLR handy along with my kit. After every use, I would wipe the piece down thoroughly and then apply a little oil. Any scratches or serious scuffs would be immediately tended to with a file and sand paper. Basically, if you know how to clean a gun, you know how to clean your armour. Take a few minutes after each use to keep it in good shape and it will last you a very long time.

Ok, my friend, he has won one more subscriber here in Brazil. I also work with steel, but I never made armor, seeing his work made me feel like trying. Hugs

Eduardo Hernandez Casco de Magneto se inspiró en la Barbuta italiano :-).

A good first-time helmet would be a spangenhelm. But with any armour project, you might want to prepare for it to take much longer than you expect. Here's a helpful starting link: www.arador.com/armour/how-to-make-a-spangenhelm/

Parker Brown thanks! I found out the other day that we have a bit more time than I had originally thought (like 2 weeks longer so about 15-20 hours longer than I thought). We also have a bit more flexibility with the materials we can use and so I may consider using some EVA foam, but we have to at least have some reinforcement of brazing with wire as armature. I would have considered possible peparuka but the instructor said we cannot do templates; however, the general template in the link should still help me increase my awareness and understanding of what it would take to go through the metal route because we do have sheet metal available. I am trying to pool a bunch of ideas together to make it look badass, and any other feedback for possible material alternatives other than what I have mentioned would be much appreciated.

matt12721 img2.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20120224210256/elderscrolls/images/2/2b/Helmofyngol.png this helm is kinda where my inspiration comes from. That, gladiatator, the Witch King from lord of the rings, and some video game armor are kinda where I hope to attempt to take this project

matt12721 If you want to make something like this for cosplay purposes, there are MUCH simpler alternatives than learning armoursmithing. Fantasy armour can be a lot of fun to make, but it MUST be approached from an understanding of real practical historical armour first. A lot of fantasy armour looks good, but is simply too impractical and uncomfortable to wear. I would strongly advise looking at real original pieces first before delving into "armour" shown in movies and video games.

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