Just to add one or two points that may have been glossed over in the video. Stress reliving is a complex topic I don't wat to make it out to be anything less. There are lots of things to consider with these materials when it comes to heat treating. What I will say is that when quenching under similar conditions, parts that I have made from cold rolled consistently warped slightly more than parts that were made from hot rolled. There will be many factors at play here including how well I was able to evenly cool the part, but I think we can make an assumption that the internal stresses of the cold rolled play some part in that. Now when it comes to heat treating and case hardening these in the future expect there to be some degree of warping, but if I can minimize that with the annealing, that would be fantastic. And that was the goal here, nothing more.
"I never need to do 'X'" is always a good introduction to having 'X' appear as a task. Excellent looking work and appears those will be quite useful in your future work!
Hey there! A Blacksmith tip here, if you ever have to normalize/heat treat/anneal large pieces of steel, it's better to heat up the furnace empty until it glows a dull orange. Gets you quicker up to temperature, saves on gas, and evens out the heat better and quicker if you do not intend on soaking it for very long periods of time where evenness of heat doesn't matter as much because it'll even out over time anyway :)
Nice V-blocks! My shop specified a "tooling hole" dead center of the block so the V faces can be checked for center. When the V faces are perfectly centered, you can use them in any position without worrying about parallelism.
That's some good insight if you planned ahead and put the spacing of the bolt holes for the two piece vice the same distance as the t slots for the v blocks! Would be cool to see you make those t nuts really quickly though
With smaller machines, you can very quickly run out of Z-height, but for larger machines or operations that don't need a lot of Z-height, that is definitely a useful method.
@@pauljcampbell2997 either with an adapter plate to bolt it vertically to the table or on an indexing head horizontally. My indexing head can also put it on an angle
Awesome job One thing I'm kinda worried about though: did you check if the blocks are symmetrical around the key slot? Like sure, you machined them both at the same time, but what if you flip one of them, are the angled faces still in the same plane? If not, you'd clamp the round bar at an angle accidentally and wouldn't even know because you assume that the v-blocks are sitting right. So either mark the blocks on one side or make sure they are symmetrical. Oh, and one question: how are you gonna clamp the round bar once it's on there?
If you mounted your vice up one end of the table you wouldn’t need to take it off so often. I’ve got a much smaller X-Y table on my setup, I mounted the vice about 3” from the right hand end & I think I’ve only ever had to remove it once. It’s never presented a problem there either. Just the other day I needed to use my tilting table (had it for about a year now & that’s the first time I’ve used it 🤣) & I managed to squeeze it in next to the vice. Saves a lot of time setting the vice so often.
Doesn't using those as vice jaws over constrain the part? I'm not a machinist but IIRC 3 points of contact is better than 4 because if the thing you are clamping isn't perfectly round each of the contact points will apply different forces and can distort the part or simply result in inadequate grip.
Yea, in general, I think only one v-block is needed in a vise. However, maybe with a relatively large flat piece like that AL round plate, four points of contact might provide a better grip. And AL probably has enough give to even out the pressure at the contact points. But, I'm just an amateur armchair machining video watcher...
Dude I'm just happy to see the refractory in the furnace. Very few people making videos that I've seen use the refractory which is very bad for your health.
You should consider getting some copper or alu or any soft metal thin plate stock, as in tooling plate(flat machined) for your vise jaws in situations such as these... Clamping a scaly part is a recipe for damage of the jaws and shit grip in some cases, as scale can be puffy and flaky, shearing off when enough force is applied, and it can thus allow for the part to shift, causing more damage to jaws surface... A 2mm alu tooling plate will soak up any rough scale into it and will not let go of any parts... You could even use 3 plates on parts such as these, where you place the 3rd plate over the vise ways, so when you hammer the part down or when the facemill hammers the part with each cut, the part is resting on a sacrificial soft precision plate that projects and protects the vise surfaces... Tho, i would advise a cleanup of the stock beforehand... All of my stock is either acid cleaned, neutralized with baking soda and washed in window cleaner or similar, before being sprayed down with wd40 and tossed in oil for storage until it becomes the body of the next project... Its a lot of work, but not having a speck of rust or scale in the shop really benefits the machines, and makes the cleanup and maintenance of the shop/machines much nicer and easier... Used car oil is a good pick for stock storage... you get at least 5l with each service and it practically encourages you to take better care of your car(dont get me started on benefits electric cars... i have nothing good to say about those)... You can also mix it with gearbox oil, so it encourages you to take better care of that part of the car aswell... Just wipe the part off with a rubber wiper and voila, a fresh, rust free part ready to be machined with minimal production of abrasive dust(rust, scale, other oxides)...
Kurtis from CEE it the one who got me started watching all these makers, i was 25+ years maint mech, but had to fab a lot of things because the tool and die shop was always busy.
@artisanmakes Is there any way to mail you something? I have some superfluous carbide tooling at work that i could give to someone who deserves them and you fit that category perfectly.
How would you describe the difference of machining this material pre vs post anneal. Harder or easier to get a good finish? Stickier? Better or worse for cutter wear?
This is the first video I've seen of yours which I think I could actually classify as "Artisan". I'm impressed. You did something sleek and unique, I like it.
Why not band saw most of the v-groove, then you'd have less wear on the face mills? Your keys are short, so you don't need to have the slot go all the way across.
Do you have any intentions of relieving the 2 piece vise for the key? This will not only allow you to index the V to the jaws, ensuring they are collinear with one another in both configurations... but will make it so they don't need to be removed every time they are switched from V-blocks to V-Jaws. P.S see you for next week's video!
I use SolidWorks for 90% of the stuff I do, its a great piece of software. But I occasionally use CATIA V5 for complex parts and Autocad for doing 2D drawings.
Beautiful work! I may not have enough knowledge about machining but is using 2 v-jaws like this over-constraining the part vs using 1 v-jaw and 1 flat one? Or does the extra surface just add extra clamping force since the jaws are machines so exactly in this case?
@@DodgyBrothersEngineering Right, but would using a single V-block not do the same without potentially putting lateral strain on the clamped material if they're not perfectly aligned?
@@BastiaanEkeler potentially, but here is where I see issues... Traveling one direction on the Y axis you would have reasonable hold, but traveling back the opposite direction on the other side of the vice I see a much greater opportunity for it to rotate the part in the jaws, because you are machining in the same direction as it is being held. If he had left the steps in the face and had similar steps in the face of a straight jaw, I would probably feel more comfortable holding it that way. I don't think a face mill or fly cutter are going to cause it any concern, but if you started loading up near the flat edge aggressively with an end mill, I see the potential to turn the part.
@@BastiaanEkeler giving this some additional thought... If the part is not symmetrical, or if for any reason the bolt holes were not exactly right. i.e. not indexed to make sure they go in the same way every time... It could potentially wind up with less grip than a 3 point grip. If putting it on the wrong way around suddenly centre line miss aligned the faces, it would probably have less grip. because you could wind up with two tight faces and two loose faces.
Ummm, I think you lost the footage of you separating the two parts... So, was that an angle grinder we heard, or was it your hacksaw is "band-saw" mode?? :)
You are still using the sharp, aluminium cutting inserts on the facemill, correct? If I recall correctly, you said that you used them to reduce the neccessary motor power. Whenever I facemill with old manual mills, I have excellent surface finishes with the regular universal inserts, so I think that you should try those again too. What do you think?
Nitrogen is only one gas you could use as an inert atmosphere. I worked in a factory running the heat treat furnace and we used carbon monoxide as our inert atmosphere. This has the added benefit of allowing us to change the amount of carbon in the atmosphere to either leech out carbon (less carbon in the atmosphere vs the steel) or absorb carbon into the surface later (carburization).
