So I wanted to offer some advice for adhesion of paints, primers, and putty/body filler. There are a few primers that the manufacturer claims will adhere to "raw plastics." However, there have to be certain chemicals in that primer for that to actually happen. If you want to make absolutely sure that your materials are adhered to your project, you really need to use an adhesion promoter. After sanding your project, clean it, and then tack all the dust off, spray the adhesion promoter on per manufacturer recommendations. Then you can apply your primer. It's also not recommended to put puddy, filler, "Bondo" type materials on raw plastic. It does not adhere to raw plastic. It will eventually come off. So the steps should be, prep plastic, apply adhesion promoter, apply primer, sand primer, (not all the way back down to the plastic, your only creating sand scratches for any putty work to adhere to), do putty/filler work, re-prime, sand again, if everything looks good you may be able to finish sand and paint, but if not, prime again, finish sand, and then paint. You have to understand that your first prime is what is holding everything to the project. Now, with all that said, I feel I should explain that there are 2 types of adhesion in painting. 1)- mechanical adhesion. This means sand scratches that paint flows down into, gripping the scratches for adhesion. (2)- chemical adhesion. This is where a chemical (adhesion promoter) is applied to create adhesion. Adhesion promoter works by making the pores in the plastic swell when it is applied. You then spray your primer on. While the primer is wet, it flows into the opened pores. When the adhesion promoter is dissipated, the pores close back up, holding the primer to the plastic. These are the only 2 ways to create true adhesion to plastics and urethane materials. This isn't a comment for any other reason than to help the modeling/printing community. And, in case anyone questions this advice, you can do your homework yourself. I worked as an automotive refinish specialist/tech for 25 years, and now own and operate my own facility. We have done multiple paint jobs for high level cosplay clients, including members of large cosplay clubs for Star Wars groups. We have done multiple Vader suits, Mando, Boba, probably close to 100 Storm Troopers, Transformers, ect... Years ago, lots of this stuff was done with fiberglass, but since printing came out, everything changed. So take this info and pass it around to everyone you can. Pass it to Frank as well. He probably already knows, but maybe not. Happy building, everyone, and MTFBWY...Always Edit: the reason his paint lifted is because the flat black he used is an enamel product and the clear coat is a lacquer. These paint have a chemical reaction and shouldn't be used together. Always research your materials to be sure they are compatible. Just because it's in a rattle can, doesn't mean it's compatible. There are waterborne, enamel, lacquer, and urethane based products all in rattle can. Do your research.
Frank, thank you for being so positive and encouraging 3:39. Your videos are full great advice, entertainment and humour (end of video out take 😂) I have the sovol sv01 pro. I’m only about a month into my 3d printing journey and I am loving it. Wishing you and your family happy holidays
Just wanted to say thank you for all the videos you’ve done! I did some 3D printing in high school but I was never really taught much of the technical stuff. Recently I had an itch to print and make things again and came across your channel while researching. Because of your videos I snaked a CR10s Pro V2 during the Black Friday sales and I’ve been having an absolute blast with it! Because of your videos, the most trouble I’ve had so far is attaching the filament holder lol. I’ve learnt so much from you and I guarantee that my nozzle head would still be loose out of the box without you! So thank you so much for doing what you do and sharing your knowledge with us all!! I’ve designed and printed Lego Skyrim pieces (they aren’t great quality lol), a couple statues, atm I’m making a Bulbasaur pot plant for my partner for Christmas and soon I’ll try a Mandalorian Helmet. I wouldn’t be where I am without you and this amazing community so thank you so much!
Was watching this video and went to look for this "Panel scriber" As I've been struggling trying to find a way into those details (mostly to sand them, but). There's a video of this guy, he cuts the top off a pin and puts it in a mechanical pencil. GENIUS! Great because with those things you can set the depth, and the bottom edge of the pencil case will act like a guide on the surface!
Thanks so much Frank! I'm almost done making mine and your tips have been very useful. Something I realised was that using old tinted sunglasses hot glued in gave me that nice reflective look and are perfect for looking out of
i wouldn't think about painting first one or the other but now watching your video i think it makes sense that mate one should be first since a glossy surface wont be the best for things to stick to it while the mate one is more porous so whatever you apply on top of it should have a much better grip
I'm working on a Shoretrooper right now with my printers, and finally found some in stock dupli-color filler primer and can't wait to use it! Was using the Krylon filler primer and really enjoyed it so this will be a nice new adventure.
The BP mask is a time eater, great breakdown of the process and I for one feel your pain with the masking. The little eye inserts (think they came with the free file) are great for displaying the mask but not so cosplay friendly - thanks for sharing your approach and the panel scribe tool tip!
loved the video ! Loved the talking too. So much useful advice... Thanks for making those videos dude !! You got me into this beautiful world of creation
I got a 3d printer for christmas (small one that does 6x6 only) but it's a started. Your channel has cleared up a lot of questions I've had. Thank you for all your videos and tips.
I did the Do3D helmet pretty much the same settings you had but a little more sitting up for the orientation. I blocked out the gigantic center support and just added extra around the perimeter. Came out flawless and looking so good for fdm. In the process of finishing up the painting was hoping to have it done by time the movie came out but that didn’t happen.
Great job Frank!!!!!, I know it took you so long to do this since before you moved seeing it in the background of past videos. And the detail is amazing!!!
I’ve been building a god of war axe as a side project to my MK 42 arms build. And omg. I will forever from now on use different supports since they use like half as much material.
Just started watching your channel because I’m interested in getting in the hobby of 3D printing. I really enjoy your videos because they’re very informative and just very awesome in my opinion. I’m slowly starting to watch all of your videos just so I can learn as much as I can about printing before getting my 1st printer! I’m enjoying the content so far and can’t wait for future builds and videos!! Thanks!
Frank I gotta send some love and appreciate for all the inspiration you’ve given me for 3D printing and cosplay creation. Please keep up the great work on the content and and the godly work on the props and cosplay
Awesome job! Your videos are always very helpful and I appreciate you sharing your techniques. I literally just went out and bought rust oleum primer today😂.
YES IVE BEEN WAITING FOR THIS!! I wanted to make a BP mask so bad but the tutorials weren’t that good. THANK YOU! ALSO…if you are going to remake a second version of the mask, i would suggest adding the opening mechanism of the iron man mask to the BP so the face is accessible (aka eating snacks at a halloween party LOL) CANT WAIT TO SEE WHATS NEXT IN STORE 👍🏽👍🏽
For the resin printers: The Vek3D helmet you have to cut the back plate and the main shell one more time for it to fit on a Saturn 2. The base print is about 16” on the inside from ear to ear if you don’t have armorer and have a big head. The silver parts are printed separate so you can color them without masking. I also like #12 scalpels along with xactos
25:14 in the future, why not go in this order instead. Spray the matte black first, hand paint in the silver paint and then finish with the gloss black. 26:21 That's one fluffy dog, man. The ending was hilarious!
Hey frank!! So for the PLA welding things you used a soldering iron and i thought that, while this may be a little bit more expensive, you should get a plastic welding gun! it places wire inside the melted plastic to make it a LOT stronger.
Hey Frank, you mention the CR-10s Pro V2, which I have, and I was wondering if you have a fix for getting the "x" axis gantry to stay level during a print and not be "weighted down", if you will, on the left side where the extruder is mounted?
Recording is hard enough, Pressing the Record button should be the easiest part. You need to make sure your taking care of your health. Keep that brain fresh so you don't forget. Your printer is getting frisky with the 'gyrate' Mode. Great Video as always have a great Xmas
The do3d file is still for free. Do3d still technically sells paid versions of all their free files. Its scummy but its always been like that on their site.
The Amazon link to products used links out to your green goblin materials. Do you have a link specific for the items discussed in this Black Panther video?
I was actually thinking of doing this idea, I was going to buy a 3d printer do you recommend any good ones that would be lower than $1000 to print a black panther helmet
Thank you for this video ! I would like to get into 3d printing and your videos are really helpful. My only question is : how much did it cost you to make this helmet ? Also do you have a video where you reveal the price of each tool you use ?
Have you tried the you’ll spray primer and filler someone easy recommended it in another vid and it’s almost as good as the bondo spray but easy to get at any autozone
LONG TIME FAN, my son lives Black panther and I've wanted to print one for him but every time I was looking yeah it looks like a beast. Question. I have ender 3 pro. What would you charge if I gave you measurements to scale and slice the file? (He's 6 so needs to be scaled).
How do you test your paints and how they mesh do you use failed prints or just standard plastic? Like using dupli color primer with Rust-Oleum as an example
Hey Frank, have you talked about the mannequins used for full suits? I wanna start with a N7 armor, and storing the pieces in plastic containers doesn't sound like a good idea.
