Making a Carriage Stop for a Metal Lathe with Multiple Stops: Part 1 

After watching several clips on this subject this unit gets my thumbs up. I am glad that you give speed and feed, very few do.

That is going to be a very useful addition to the Lodge & Shipley. Thank you Keith, for showing the complete manual setup. Which goes to show that there is more than one way to skin the cat! Looking forward to more and the big project. Cheers.

This is a great project I liked seeing how the mill can cut through that big hunk of metal

The best tools are the ones you make your self .. This is one of many ! Thanks Keith ..

Boy the museum has some nice machine tools. Good project and its cool to see the mill in action.

Lookin good on the K&T Keith! That's going to one fine carriage stop! Adam

Love the way you explain the procedure of your projects and make it look so simple. Thanks

Hey Keith, Nice little project, I really like the idea of multiple stops in one unit! Looking forward to part 2. Thanks, Ray

Very informative and excellent close up shots, thank you.

Thank you so much. I'm about to imanufacture 450 plus test pieces on my little lathe and knew I was going to have to finally make one. I knew of Mr Pete's vid and was going to use from memory. This is easier. Ta Ta.

Keith has THE COOLEST machines.

always loves Keiths videos always fun to watch

Cracking little project there Keith. Looking forward to the rest.

Well I must've clicked away before sending a note to you on the 1st try, but it basically said that I really enjoyed watching you getting back out there and fabricating some wonderful tooling. It is always a pleasure to see you make things seem so simple even though I know how hard they are. Getting ready to watch the 2nd edition after mucking out the chicken coop, and I can't wait to get it done so I can come back and warm up with a cup of coffee and another show! Aloha...Chuck

As always I enjoyed the video. It was informative to watch the horizontal mill cut the two top slots. I agree a bandsaw can remove a lot of material quickly, I made mountains of chips before I learned that lesson.

Keith, A really great project. By using different length rods, you can come a variety of carriage stops for different jobs. Thanks for the great video! Happy Holidays! Dave

Great video. I made a mrpete222 style carriage stop about a month ago but I only have one setting. I don't think I will need more. Looks like you have made a great start and have every reason to expect it will turn out great. Thanks for sharing.

Nice work Keith------ enjoyed ----- thank you

That horizontal mill is a beast! The chips that thing was throwing looked like dowel pins! Inch AND a quarter DOC single pass ha, sure makes for quick work.

Enjoy watching the setup as much as the cutting :-) Well Done Keith!!

love the video! Keith Rucker the Bob Ross of Machinists.

Keith, thanks to this video and a few others from the "other" Keith (Fenner) I now have yet another expensive machine on my long term wish list. That K&T is a beast given its footprint. Fun watching it peel steel like a paring knife peels potatoes.

Terrific video Keith. Love that K&T and the big cuts you can make with it.

Very very interesting. Love that mill. Keep up the good work!

Keith, Thanks for sharing this. I never had much exposure to horizontal mills and I'm starting to understand how versatile they are.

Darn it! Was watching a few of Keith's older videos and ran across this one not knowing it was published today. Guess I will have to wait for part 2. Excellent and interesting video as always Keith!

Keith, Great video, love seeing that horizonal mill in action, love the channel

Just now working through some videos I haven't watched. Your 'work' set-up and milling is nice! Hope you had a Merry Christmas and wishing you a Happy New Year! ....13

I made a stop very similar to this for my 13" Sheldon lathe a few years back before I installed a DRO on that machine everything was "MRO" (mechanical read out) using dial indicators and magnets. It has 2 stop arms that can flip into position with the adjustable screws on the ends. I also have an adjustable dial indicator mount on it so I can see the carriage coming up to the stop without knocking the stop out of position on the way. My hinge pin is made from 1/2" hex turned down to .250" for the hinge pin area with 1 short area of 5/16 x 24 thread just below the hex head so the pin can be removed to offer more versatility out of the tool. Little shop tool projects like this are always fun to build.

Happy holidays Keith....enjoyed the video, but darn...I got a case of KT envy.....LOL, hmmm! I asked the 8 ball and it said NO!!!!

Nice project Keith, one that a lot of fellas (and gals) could make to improve their lathes capability. I enjoyed seeing the horizontal mill again and liked how you indicated (old school) method. I don't have DROs on my equipment so I enjoy seeing different set up methods. Really looking forward to part 2. Thanks for sharing with us... Fred

fantastic video keith looking forward to part two

That is a clever design.

Very nice.I like the design.Iam looking foward to seeing the Vance Planer Matcher up and running

Hi Keith, Horizontal mills are a good workhorse for those kind of jobs, set it up and go for lunch while the work gets done. That big if installed on a tiny lathe stop would flip it over on it's side... lol Happy Holidays to you and family, Pierre

Keith I have the same stop Lyle has on my Logan Lathe except I only had the two flip arms so I added the third solid one. Now I am ready to do the dial upgrades the same way . Keep up the good work Bill

Keith, I really like it. You could even make a a two sided carriage stop. Allow the two stops to swing both ways and add a second short stop. Very nice. Thanks for sharing.

Neat lathe stop, i remember seeing Mr Pete's video with that carriage stop. and its always been in the back of my mind to build one for my lathe. was impressed with how good that mill ate away that metal, and your band saw. imagine cutting that with a hacksaw. you'll have arms like popeye lol. Great video very enjoyable as always

Merry Christmas

great video

hi keith good work. I am looking forward to the next parts juergen

Great Info. Thanks for shearing.

I gave away a "Large & Shapely" lathe like that one last year. It went with all sorts of accessories, large 3 & 4 jaw chucks, large faceplates, tool holders, tooling. It wasn't what I wanted for my big lathe. Not that there is anything wrong with the L&S brand of lathe, they work quite well! It just was not the large lathe I wanted for my shop.

Looks like a nice project Keith! Your K&T sure likes to chew steel! ;-) Should be a very handy stop! Thanks! Jeff

Ah, for the convenience of a 6" swivel vise! First thing that came to mind was the "Tried, and true" rotary stop set ups that were always on the old Turret Lathes, (Screw Machine Lathes)? Nice to see some of my "Old Friends" again, before I "graduated" to CNC. Gb bg

Add a hole for a 2" travel dial gauge; then you can use it to measure travel also I'm sure abom79 will approve. ;) Great vid as always.

Keith, as always very interesting videos. On this one I have two things: 1. Who makes that cool 45° square youbused for the setup? I've been on eBay and Amazone and it does not show up.😒 2. I'm sharing this part for the guys who like me are learning the trade. It is about the way the cutter was ruined. A 1.75" diam cutter should not be run at speeds over 240RPM. Going too fast will ruin a cutter no matter if you oil it or use the mist coolant system. So, how do you determine the correct speed for a given cutter? Easy; find out two things: the recommended Surface Feet per Minute (SFM) cutting speed recommended for the material you are milling, in this case mild steel is 60-110sfm and : find the cutter diameter; this case 1.75" then you can 1. calculate cutter surface area 1.75 x pi (3.14)=5.495 convert sfm to surface inch per minute, let us go mid point 85 x 12= 1020sim then divide this by your surface to get your rpm 1020/5.495=185RPM. This end mill should run 142-240RPMs. Not 650.

Great one! Thanks, Keith..;)

Keith, when I heard you say.445" I thought "NO NO, rethink that number" I've done that too many times myself.

I came in in the middle of this video when you turned on the mister on an already hot bit you really shouldn't do that if it's carbide it looks like it could be high speed steel but if it's carbide that's how you get micro- fracturing. carbide doesn't like rapid cheese and temperature so you're best off either leaving it hot or letting it cool down before you turn on the mist

When you speed up the playback, I always think wouldn't it be cool if it could a tally run that fast and deep in real life! Actually, I sometimes ran slower just to savor the moment.

Adding a detent, spring and rolling pin will help keep those stops upright and not allowbthem to fall accidentally

Yelling TWO HUNDRED FORTY FIVE THOUSANDTHS at the screen right now. LOL!

Instead of all of the captured stops, why not make a receptacle hole and a set of graduated adjustable stems that can sit in a tool holder and just swap them as you're going? All you need is a slip fit hole with a clean flat surface and a clean flat shoulder on the stop stem. If you don't like the possibility of error from a non-indexed stop, give it a captured shaft to ride on, but instead of a hole in your stop, cut it off to reveal a little less than a half round, and fab a spring clip that can snap over the back of the shaft, OR mount something like a big spring clamp to the stop with the one jaw modified to index on the back of the shaft, and the other to either mount, or index into roll pins on the sides of the stop. The exchange can be one handed, and a good tool holder design would make it both out of the way, but perfectly accessible. It only needs to hold the number of stops you would use in the operations, so you wouldn't have to invest too much space for it, and like any good tool holder, it should be exchangeable with other tool pallets. Let me know if that wasn't clear enough and you need a drawing. Thanks for the vids and your time! All ideas are priceless! Even bad ones could have something good for another method or application! It's kinda like, "Even bad pizza is good pizza!" ...until you can't eat that crap anymore! LOL

Keith Rucker, Wow...! What a Treasure. You not only made your part piece, you've re-made History. It was an inspiring joy to see you operate the (plain? or universal?) conventional milling machine. I didn't know anyone remembered how to properly set up the overarm and yoke. Question... Do you have the cross support bars that attach to the Yoke?

Almost 6000 views in three days... I AM impressed!

Hay Keith - since that thing is so wide, why not cut it in half and have 2 stops? You could use the other on the other side of your carriage if necessary. I also love the idea of adding a dial indicator hole so you can use it that way as well. That would make it more then a 1 trick pony.

That mill is sure impressive when you see it in action! However you need some handy lifting device to save you having to manually lifting that vice up on to that table!

I think a federate of about 1.5ipm would yield the recommended toothload for mild steel at that rpm. Give that thing some load! lol Is there something wrong with your mill why the table doesn't come up? My Cincinnati will bring the table level to centerline of the spindle. I find it odd that a K&T would not as well.

Hi Keith, thanks for the nice video. I´m just wondering why did you indicate the vise on the loose jaw?

22:50 This is the way I'd have considered for creating the first slot rather than using an end mill. If I I has a 1·75" wide cutter !

Slowing the cutter speed - I'm actually working on a spreadsheet for feeds & speeds - and it suggests 175 rpm - for 80 fpm cutting speed. As for table speed, it's suggesting 13 ipm !

Fun project. Really enjoy seeing the setup of the horizontal mill. I love the idea of when you need a tool, you just make it. Not casting aspersions, but from our angle it looked like the bottom of the slot cuts were very close to the vice jaws. I am not a machinist, and understand you guys are used to working in thousands of an inch. I am curious, what would be a normal clearance from a cut to the vice jaw?

23m...... that's exactly how I felt when he laid in this chuck sleeves.

Don't forget rpm calculation is about (4 x cutting speed) divided by cutter diameter multiplied by the milling factor(.8) (4x90)/1.75x.8=164.57 rpm

great video Keith... question: if you had two cutters could you space them apart on the abor the desired gap and cut both cuts simultaneously? *****

Great project Keith, nice work. One suggestion, the interlude music you're using is getting a bit old. Perhaps a change?

I was half listening to the news and heard the broadcaster ask why everybody was yelling 240! :-0)

nice

Не плохо он мастерскую сделал. Мне нравится.

Maximum RPM (in my opinion) for a 1-3/4" tool on steel would be 125 (SFM) X 12 / 1.75 / 3.1415 = 273 RPM.

Hello Keith, it's all new for me so very interesting how you setup the mill and use all those kind of adapters for the mill. Only thing I thought about was if it makes any difference the way that the cutter cuts in the metal. Now the tooth's going upward but is this on purpose or can they also move downwards. Anyway thanx for the interesting video !

Very nice, Keith. BTW: what video software are you using? Tnx

are cooling liquid based on water? how are you clean your equipment after work and how to prevent from rust?

hi sir very good

Great video, what would you recommend ,TPI , on the bandsaw? I find myself pushing too much when cutting aluminum with my metal bandsaw blade, which may be 14 + TPI

I am not trying to be negative, but you do see the events that unfolded here, don't you? You spun that cutter way to fast and smoked a $100 cutter. The dull cutter made lots of heat, so you added the water spray and continued to use the dull cutter. A sharp end mill should cut like butter in mild steel. No coolant needed. I see this scenario all the time. The one where a museum or college gets free donated equipment. The volunteers or students in their ignorant ways tear the stuff up, and mask their blunder with the vail of good intentions. I get that most of the guys that leave comments here are your circle of buddys. No one calls you on your mistake. I know it happens. I have been there when I started machining. But people watch these videos to learn. You might want to talk about cutter speed and feed, or at least start with the speed slow and see what color the chips come off looking like.

What's the thing on the side of the K&T at 23:00 with a face shield hanging off it? Does that articulated arm thing have anything to do with it?

I guess a revolver stop would be better, with more stops.

Wouldve been much faster to mill the body of the stop on the Bridgeport. 5 minutes at the max.

Like! Tanks' Mike.~M~

Looks good! If you want more subs, feel free to embed your video on our homemade tools forum; looks like you're one of us :-)

You're not the sharpest tool in the shed 'eh Keith?

Thanks for coming out of the closet keith, you are an inspiration to Gay Machinists everywhere

BETTER IDEAMWARNER SWASEY TURRET LATHE,BAR STOCK ,5 2A 3A 4A,WHY DO ALL THAT

never ever wear long sleeve shirts while operating an industrial lathe

@24:40 Indicating off the moving jaw is not best practice. There is the possibility of error as by definition it's 'loose'. Always use the fixed jaw which cannot settle or flex when tightened. Here is another example of you showing your willing viewers a poor way to use machine tools. Why do you do this?