This was a several month process of me making this cedar and resin table. I ran into problem after problem and made many novice mistakes, but I learned a lot, and I hope you can learn from my mistakes as well. The table is 4ft x 10ft
Wow. This was mind blowing and not in the way you would think. I don’t understand why so many rounds of sanding and oiling and the router sand, and so many other things. I am just…. Speechless. Congrats on finishing it.
Dude Thank you for being humble and not arrogant like most others on here. Its like a breath of fresh air for real. Makes watching much more enjoyable bc its relatable. Lets face it if any of us were perfect why are you watching others do it... So TY again man.
Absolutely love the project, and watching this type of detailed, step-by-step explanation of what you did and how you did it - especially highlighting the challenges and mistakes - is incredibly helpful. Gives me confidence and makes me want to try something similar. By the way, I know the legs were the clients’ decision, but they really do not do the table top justice at all. Just my $.02. I know they can be swapped out pretty easily, though.
Thanks for the positive feedback! I was hoping more than anything that I may be able to teach people from my mistakes. And I couldn't agree more about the legs. The clients have actually had second thoughts about the legs because even with 6 steel legs like those, it still has some wobble (if you push sideways on it) because of the sheer weight of the top.
Turned out beautiful. I enjoyed watching this and your commentary was great. I appreciate you talking through mistakes which are frustrating, but the best ways to learn. Cheers from Utah
Awesome work! I did one a few years ago and like you I did in spare time and took me I think 7 months total from start to finish, including procrastination, but I was very pleased with my outcome.
I work with big Cedar and you're 100% right. It's a finnicky wood that requires way more finesse than just about anything else I've used. A couple things that I've learned. Start at 120 grit and random orbital everything. Raised resin is unavoidable but a scraper knocks it down nicely before you continue to higher grits. Cedar dings, and is ultra soft so make sure you're client understands this. To finish I've used polymerised Tung oil with a bees wax sealing coat. Doesn't make it any harder but it feels amazing.
Hi. I just watched your video and can't thank you enough for sharing your learning experience. I, at the sweet young age of 66, will be attempting a 3 metre long countertop resin river table. Mine though will be with silky oak and only 1 piece of wood and resin either side of it. I had a bit more confidence before watching your video, but hopefully after all the videos I have watched it will be ok. I'm going to do 3 much smaller tables first then it will be the big one. Thank you so much.
Soon as I saw all those voids I went "there is 60 hours in just prep right there". Instead of using the planer to straighten a side, could have used a long level or straight board, track saw, circular saw, etc. A while back I did Blacktail studios epoxy workshop (paid course) and I don't like epoxy tables too much, but the sealing is very helpful just in general. Also, I see a lot of against grain sanding which can crap out the finish, especially cedar which just likes to tear out a lot. For the oil, I learned a lesson, I apply to the pad only no matter what wood, walnut, cedar, pine, oak, red oak, maple. I messed up a small project and realized it didn't save me any time and in fact cost me 10x the time.
NICE JOB ,I BET YOU AND YOUR WIFE ARE HAPPY ITS OVER LOL. HOW MUCH EPOXY DID IT FINALLY ABSORB IN TO THE TABLE ,BY THE WAY VERY GOOD JOB BROS , GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY.
Turned out very nice, but not something I'll ever do I'm pretty sure. My shop is too small for one thing to do a large table like that. I also don't have any experience with epoxy resin. Your video did show some the mistakes and also how to fix them. It's always a learning curve.
Nice video & nice table. I like the table it’s not black. Thank you Sir You learned what works & what doesn’t, so it was very profitable for you. Maybe next time for the legs find a blacksmith to make, for that rustic look. Again, Thank you Sir
A very nice piece of art! I believe your main problem is your not having the experience with western cedar. For that matter any cedar. I moved from N. Calif. to another cedar enriched area, the Osarks. Although the "cedar" in the south isn't a true cedar, more of a Juniper, it has most if not all the qualities of the western type. Because of it being so porous it will soak up anything from common water to any type of oil and gain the same results(as far as staining).I've never used Odie's on any cedar or redwood projects, but teak and Danish oils have the same effect on both woods. If you find yourself with another project using an oil finish on these types of woods, brush on the oil fairly heavy and wipe off in about an 30 mins. You'll have to wait a day or two, most likely two to let the finish sink in and semi-dry, but the end result after buffing will be a deep appearing semi-shine. The grain and colors will really pop. I've also never used it on epoxy, so you'd want to try it on a test piece first. IMO
Thanks for posting a video where not everything goes perfectly, we all have to make the mistakes, that just part of the process. Big kudos to your wife for being such a sport! Idk if you've heard of flowyline. They make beautiful metal legs, Imho, I would change out those legs and replace with something a little more substantial and nicer looking. Great job!
That is a good oil I personally use Rubio mono coat , with you can use a squeegee or paint roller Coat the whole surface then buff . After dries go back with a green or maroon pad on buffer with no pressure at all applied then re coat works well and shouldn’t leave any dark spots
My experience with oddies is not to use a machine. Buff on and off by hand. Everytime I do it that way I don't have any issues. When I use a powered buffer I get inconsistencies in the finish. I think it maybe do to heat. I've tried different pads, rpms and pressure and hand application always works the best. You did a great job on this table. I made one it's on my channel but mine was oak and flood coats and I spent enormous time sanding but in the end it was worth it. Keep up the great work!
I’ve usually use cabinet scrapers to remove the high points of resin rather than sanding. One, is doesn’t impact or sand down the surrounding areas. Two, there’s nearly no dust. And three, it’s quieter
@ 21:53 You talk about poking the holes with a needle, but can you push resin into those tiny holes with a card of some kind, or a scraper? just something with a really thin edge and drag it all over the areas where there's tiny holes essentially working it into the epoxy this way? Or how about using a syringe and injecting into trouble spots for more precision?
We’re you happy with the finish on the resin? I have sanded resin up to 1200 grit and still have small scratches. Haven’t gone down the car polish route yet
I'm just now to the point in the video where you said the resin won't stick to the tape and I'm gonna laugh when you are done and find out that it is gonna stick. It just makes it easier to get the work piece of of it but sometimes that's a pain
When you're using a circular saw, put the bigger part of the base on the work; you have the small side on the wood and I can see you wandering from 90 (it's real hard not to!). Or, if you're going to do this again, just get a track saw. They are amazing for this kind of thing and make it laughably easy to get straight/square cuts. Because you're locked in a track, it's impossible (well, you'd have to work hard at it) to get off 90.
I understand it would have been straighter with the larger side of the base on the workpiece. Because of how my particular saw is designed, however, the motor is very low and off to the side. I would have been unable to use the straight edge like I did. Now, if I was just following a pencil marked line, then it would've been no problem for me to flip it the other way. I knew I ran the risk of not keeping it at a perfect 90° by cutting in that direction, but I figured that risk was outweighed by the need for me to use a straight edge.
@@fallowgroundstudios Yeah, I had a saw like that too, my edge clamp JUST fit under it. Best answer, get a track saw! I have the Makita, less expensive than the Festool and I've been very happy with it. I have the 50in and 100in guides and use both of them regularly. The 100in guide is not cheap, but it's dead straight.
A good job on the table just 2 minor things to think about, 1 those legs do nothing for the table and 2 threaded inserts into the timber with clout head screws are much stronger and hold better than self tapping screws with washers , other than that as a first time using cedar and doing it and working at the same time you have learned a great deal so future projects will be easier to handle , well done from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺
So you only sanded to 800 grit? How does that not leave scratches in your resin? I’ve made several pieces now and really struggle to get a glass finish on my resin. Keep up the good work and God bless
Let us know if the table sags any. I see the center legs, but cedar is such a soft wood. I stopped making tables with cedar bcuz, as beautiful as this wood is, it's just way too soft and I found the only way to REALLY make cedar pop is by flood coating it with resin. And I don't like resin being the complete surface of my tables, especially a flood coat, bcuz it WILL scratch, eventually. The last cedar tables I made were for my parents (living room set), bcuz my mom loves cedar, it's her favorite....and when it gets scratched up, I'm their son, so...free repairs and maintenance, lol. The odie's looks good, but as soon as you said you drizzled it...I knew exactly what was coming next, lol...a whole lot of elbow grease and applications. I learned that lesson myself. Walnut and maple....I'm just used to pouring blops of finish and not having an issue...so it's habit. But you'll only make that mistake one time, lol. The table looks good man, just sharing my own experience with cedar. Also...subbed. Looking forward to checking out your other content.
The other thing I would recommend: threaded inserts for your legs and c-channel. Especially with these soft woods. One of my "selling" points is that I never use screws or lag bolts...I always use threaded inserts and bolts...even for hairpin legs. If you've never used them, it takes a little practice, and you'll make a few mistakes...I did...but I can pick my mom's coffee table up by the hairpins and they're solid as a rock...even in that soft cedar. The last thing you want to hear from your client is that they were sliding the table over a few inches and the leg tore out of the wood. Know what I mean?
I don't know if it's an optical illusion, if I have done something wrong but my epoxy will not lay flat. I mixed it for over 5min to make sure I had it mixed properly and my second coat the thicker coat a little under an 8th inch thick at tops and it keeps looking like it's got pockets that will not cover. It has no bubbles I can see and it's still wet it just looks uneven. I sanded the original coat with a 600 grit orbital sander and then with 000 steel wool. I then wipes it down with acetone and allowed it to dry. I poured my epoxy and spread it out with a spreader and then my gloved hand. I popped all bubbles with my torch. It is still wet but when I look at it from the side it has these pockets and if I spread it to fill those pockets it just gets pockets elsewhere. It's really pissing me off. I guess I'll allow it to dry and check it out tomorrow but if it still has them I don't know what to do.
OK I seen you say the boards are not perfect but I had mine perfect as far as I could tell. I made the whatever it is weeks ago. The wood has been in my shop for 3 years, it's oak, has been sanded down to 180g then I stained it, allowed it to dry for weeks, then sanded it down to 320g just to make it super smooth. I also added a sanding sealer before and after I stained it and then sanded it which was probably over kill but like I said it has been sitting for weeks probably longer before I put the sealing coat of epoxy on it last week and just now trying to out top coat on about 20min ago. I could use some advice.
Just a suggestion from a old woodworker...especially with a soft wood like cedar...always sand with the grain. I noticed several times in your video that you were going across the grain. Otherwise a very nice video and table
Very nice, but personally I think a green would have looked better. I know that wasn't your call but imho I just feel like an Emerald might have matched the cedar a little better.
Hi 👋, I am new to your work shop, Like the first person putting comments in, you should always be wearing a dust mask even outside, you may think just because you outside it is okay BUT IS NOT, and your poor dog will suffer as well, it is not now when you’ll get ill it will be later in life, pulling the timber down flat to your mould, seems like a good idea, but it is not as when you release it. It will finally pop-up or curl up at some point , apart from the safety issues, the table looked pretty good , please be careful and safe, PHIL FROM THE DARK SIDE OF THE MOULIN FRANCE.
I love working with Cedar. It can be a pain in the ass. And after sanding all day my shop smells like a hamster cage. Beautiful work. Now take that wife out for a weekend get away.
I wonder why you think the dust in the air will cause problems for you, thus waring a mask, but will not affect your dog. Sad to have the dog in the project area.
@@valdisprancans1406 Pretty hard for them to leave from locked cages. And it's not about smell anyway. Epoxy dust is bad for you, it can cause respiratory problems when inhaled. But the table looks awesome!
They're not my dogs, and it's not my shop. This is just the location I was required to work for the clients. Also, the barn doors were open with exhaust fans on during sanding. The dogs also were not locked in the barn. They had doors that led outside.
Lol, why didn't you just drop your router jig a 1/2", and go over it again that way? I laugh, cz it's the same thing you were looking at, it was uneven, you needed to flatten it. You used the router, like many people do, cz no one has a 4' planer, and then the next time, you didn't even mention it the whole time you were putting yourselves through hell. lol .... like 5 mins in, the first time you use the 5" rotary, I said to myself, 'omg, if I had to sand that table with that sander, I would shoot myself.', lol, and that was going to be my comment, and, as you know, it just got better and better, lol, or worse and worse, I guess, depends on pov, lol Table looks awesome. Important part, is you did what you had to, and didn't quit.Easy to do on such a big piece that isn't working out. Good job. Peace *To the client - it needs chrome legs, trust me🙂.... or matching wooden ones.
Man you shouldn't be running loud power tools next to dogs that are locked up. They have better hearing than humans, you're going to destroy their ears and give them a lot of stress. You can tell in the video they're wigging out...
