Hi Brad, Someone will get lucky with a brand new screw...! Turned out great... If you want a suggestion to ease the flimsyness situation on next jobs where you turn long parts, you start the heavier turning from the tailstock going towards the chuck only removing what needs to be removed as you go, this will help to keep some heavier material to hold the bar stiffer as you go... Hope this helps, Pierre
pierre beaudry You're right. This was a first attempt on camera. I never made a screw before but I know there are more efficient ways to work it out. I definitely experienced some hiccups along the way. Thanks for the info, I'll give a try!
it is always a good idea to remove stock from right to left and maintain max stiffness of your work piece. as you go. vary good video work i like your stuff. thanks ,ron
Nice video and thanks for sharing your project. If I may, I would like to point out that machining "between centers" means exactly that. When a part is machined "between centers," a center is placed directly into the lathe's spindle and another center is placed in the tailstock. The part being machined is placed between these centers and is rotated by means of a lathe dog and driving plate. This practice ensures the maximum degree of precision in turning a part, within the limits of precision afforded by the machine itself, and the tooling and methods used in the process. In this case, you were not turning between centers, as you were supporting and driving the part with the collet and the tailstock center. I enjoy watching all of your videos and have great admiration for your passion in restoring these wonderful machines. Nice work! Cheers!
Very instructive video. Nice. On figuring depth of cut: you will have to search old bookstores to find tables of secants. Better to divide by cosine of angle, Get that from any scientific calculator. Secants, cosecants, and cotangents are not used anymore.
.not only very generous.......but great timing, my screw is worn but, Ill make one, send that one to another who could use it, great work Brad. Thanks for the video.......Rick
BasementShopGuy ......I finally read the directions on setting up account......lol.....I restored my 13" at the same time you did on the Machinist forum.......every last nut, bolt, and felt......great work Brad.....keep it coming.
Brad, very nice job! Quick question, why didn't you use your new Iscar Do-grip parting tool on the whole part? You showed one cut using it than swapped it out for another parting tool. What makes the Iscar tool so unique vs "standard" part tools? Thanks!
When you "take ten" (around the 0:38 mark) are you taking 0.010" off diameter or off each side? That is, are you using standard dials on your lathe or direct reading? Just wondering how heavy your cuts are...I just bought a new nut but am going to make my own screw. The ACME thread looks like it would put quite a load on my heavy 10 while threading it.
Thanks for your video and detailed narration. I was wondering why you didn't cut the threads first so you had all the stock to keep it solid, naturally after it was in the collet. Please give pros and cons as I am just learning. Thanks
What year is your Bridgeport? Back in the '70s they were hard to come by sometimes and we had to buy a Hartford or Millport to have something to use at the time. They didn't last. You even have your Machinist's Handbook on your bookshelf!
Brad, I saw Chuck Tipton saw you using martin guitar paper. I also noticed it and a while back I saw a guitar on one of your videos. I was a music teacher for 33 years. Retired now. Charlie
Hi Brad ! Oh, again I envy your nice machinery ... wav ! I don't think the geometry of the die you're using is so that it can be turned and use "from the other side" - I think you said that at a point in the video - right ? IS you die in fact a "both way" die ? Anyway, really nice work you did !
BasementShopGuy To my knowledge - some you can some you can't - look at the single cutting teeth ... if you look very close you can see a - I think it's called a releaf angle, like on a cutting tool for the lathe - IF you CAN see this then you CAN'T turn the die around - it's like cutting on the lathe where the spindle runs backwards and your cutter is mounted normally.
Hey Brad, Great video, I noticed when you were writing down a dimension you wrote on a piece of staff paper with Martin guitar logo on it. Are you a guitar guy? I'm the Martin Guitar warranty service center here in East Tennessee. Been playing, repairing and building guitars for years. Just got into metal about 12 years ago just for a distraction. Now I can't get enough, Thanks for your videos!
Chuck Tipton I sure am a guitar guy. Start, Tele, Les Paul and Godin (acoustic). All American models. I used to own a D28 Martin, but didn't like the way it played. It SOUNDED gorgeous, but the fretboard was a little narrow for my hands. I want to get a 00028 model. Thanks for the viewership!
I have looked at this video many times because I have a 1960 13" lathe only I couldn't get past the rear bearing heating up regardless of pulley speed which I have a 3-step pulley setup. Going to Practical Machinist Forum and the input of many helped me figure it out. I did ask you for advice and countless others on RU-vid but not much in replies. Not one of you would even say I Don't Know hope you figure it out. Believe it or not it wasn't the educated machinist that solved it. They went by the book. It was too difficult to think outside the box, only a commoner, hobbyist, or rookie machinist would do that. You Sir telling me that you are not a machinist might be true but I believe you have all the talents and skill of a machinist and only wish you success with you business. I asked you questions in some of my comments that were not answered but that's okay, I worked out a lot of my own issues on my own and some of the difficult issues with the help of others on PM. I turned my first #10 ACME threads yesterday but I went straight in with the Cross Feed after I set the cutting bit 90* to the work. I don't have much in machinist books to reference and could not find the 14* setting for the compound, so I am asking if that's the correct setting and do I use my Cross Feed or Compound to feed in?? If you could please share that little bit of info on setting up for ACME threads I won't ask anything else. Thank You
Love your videos and lathe I too Just picked up a 13" southbend. Needs both compound screw and crossfeed screw. Do you know anyone who sells them or can you send plans? God bless, Tom in Ohio
I don’t have a thirteen but if you want to do a project building a compound screw for the Nordic 15 let me know. Mine is worn out and can’t find one. I just got the machine and I’m finding more needed repairs but the compound screw is especially bad. Good video. I have learned a lot from you. Let me know.
Hi Brad, I liked the video. I would like the compound screw for my SB 13. I am in the process of restoring mine. Thanks to you it is going to take me some time. I decided to take it apart and paint it. Anyway, I would like to have the Compound Screw. I have no compound on my lathe since it is a turret lathe and I will have to make one. TY Charlie
Charles Ugenti Hi Charles - I was contacted my another person via email (with pics) from a guy about an hour or so after the video was posted. He said he was having issues with posting comments, so he used email to contact me. Sorry man, but I can send you the plans though if you want? The screw is super-easy to make. Let me know ;)
I have got to ask, when you finished cutting the bigger threads and you took the part out of the lathe. This was at 40:47 and I noticed the little threads was already cut. That was before you even cut the little threads. Can you explain?
I was broke and didn't have a 3 jaw Chuck for 6 months I got so damn good and I balling stock on a 4 jaw Chuck. Literally under 2 minutes and I was done
Great video Brad!, don't mind the idiots. I've just bought a south bend lathe and other machines because of guys like you and mrPete222. I'm a qualified electrician by trade and at the age of 40 have developed an intrest in machining. don't have any idea what I'm doing yet but that's what you guys are there for. keep up the good work
I really enjoyed the video, I'm not a machinist, but I'm really getting into it to help in building things in my shop. I'm a knife maker. I have an old Logan 11" lathe that I've been playing with. Thank you for the video!
It's for a large old bench vise. I have two videos ready to post. Had to stop on this project due to the second thread I was cutting started to roll over onto the cutter. My lathe doesn't have a follow rest and can't seem to find one, so I'm now in the process of making a follow rest for my Monarch lathe. I'll be posting this project also when it's completed. John (a.k.a... ShadeTree Machinist)
I'm getting ready to make this same Compound Screw for my 1960 SB 13" lathe. I have commented before on many of your videos. I must have missed something because I noticed you haven't made new videos lately. My 1960 lathe was a mess and it took over a year to get all the secret issues in the open. My rear bearing cap will move maybe a half thousand and that's a guess because I have to tap it with a block of wood and then try to find the best spot to tighten it down and be able to spin the spindle by hand. How did you get such a smooth turning spindle? Did you have to align it or did you find a way to measure if it was on the money or not? Did you use Mobile One or other spindle oil? I know it long gone but maybe you can add something that might help me. Thanks
SB lathes have adjustable bearing clearance, both Axially and Radially. The 10L and up employ split bronze bearings that are adjusted by set screws in the front and rear bearing caps. A stacked Headless Allen Set Screw system is used. In other words the set screws that's visible to you is a lock screw. It must be removed to access the Set Screw underneath it. It is this second Headless Allen Set Screw that adjusts the bearing. Axial play is adjusted by threaded collars on the spindle. I hope this helps. Wakodahatchee Chris
Instead of using a trig formula, for working out the depth of cut for the thread, you could attach a DTI on a magnetic base, to the body of the lathe, and place the plunger against the back of the tool-post. No matter what the angle of the compound, the DTI will give you the actual depth of cut.
Very nice job for sure. One thing you talked about but didn't show was how you went back and polished that last thousandth off. I would like to know your procedure. Thanks, Tom
BasementShopGuy It already has me thinking that haha. Love the videos man keep it up. I only have a 6" atlas but this is something I need to do I have .015 play in my cross and .018 in my compound. Just need to buy those nuts. Again thanks for everything you do. It means a lot to us small shop guys and beginners.
I think a lot of the fear of acme threads is most people have never done them. Just like standard threads once you have the set-up down and the math makes sense you're good to go!
great video, well explained and datailed. I'm really new to machining, bought myself a small 10 x 22 grizzly lathe a year ago and I just bought a small mill 2 weeks ago and I must say that your video was very well documented. keep up the great work and I look forward to seeing much more from you.
Goodness gracious man!CUT to the chase. Your "repeating" yourself over and over makes your video 3 times or more, longer than it should be.Machinists are NOT children.CUT to the chase!
Jesus Christ you're a complainer aren't you? I'll say this like I say to all my other negative and non-helpful comments: if you don't like it, don't watch and before you leave a negative comment, make some videos yourself, post them and be sure that you've done it better. Cheers ;)
What luck to come across this video - I have just bought an Okuma LS 450 made in the 60's and the first thing that needs to be done is to replace a slightly bent compound screw ... Thanks for the walk through on how you went about it - and btw a lovely looking lathe you tidied up for yourself. I need to get on top of the ACME thread caper - maybe a good idea to post my own version with some more detail on the calcs - Machinery Handbook here we come. Pete
Hey Basementshopguy: Great video I need to make this for my lathe, tired of pulling the slide buy hand to reset it. I also need an index plate and was hoping you could post a picture of yours so I can copy it and be able to use the threading feature on my lathe. Thanks GB.