Nice. I was 3/4 way through making one similar to that a few years ago. Since then I am in a different location without access to the tools. Really inspirational to see your version.
There is a good question below about how the starting blank size is determined. It's more complex than one might hope! Basically two parameters have to be chosen, the number of teeth required and the size of the teeth. The size of the teeth is often expressed as the gears 'modulus' or alternatively the 'diametrical pitch' and in this case will be determined by the size of the thread on the tap. The arithmetic involved is too complex to explain here, if interested look up 'Gear hobbing' and 'Basic gear terminology'. Hobbing produces accurately formed gear teeth with something called an 'Involute' form which is the one usually used for power transmission. Things like clocks tend to use a different tooth profile designed to minimise rolling resistance. Gear teeth are usually anything but straight sided - that gear tooth shape would rub, absorb power and wear quickly, instead forms are used that can roll over each other.
I had to take some machinist's lesson in university. I only remember this "If the teeth do not meet you can add half a tooth or skip a tooth, OR you can learn from me how to do it properly." I was hoping for some hands-on exercises with a lathe, but it was all just boring equations and tables, so I soon forgot it all.
Some brilliant ideas here to make it work. People can pick fault but not many can show you the better one that they made. Really enjoy watching people solve problems. Have subscribed 👍
Bien vu, il faut retenir dans cette démonstration que c'est une véritable petite pépite en matière de bricolage, et effectivement j'aimerais voir ces personnes qui abordent les caractères plutôt techniques des pignons d'engrenages fabriquer cet appareil avec la même imagination et une telle minutie, non seulement c'est réalisation est pratique pour qui elle peut rendre des services mais de plus c'est un bel outil parfaitement réalisé.
I don't know how I stumbled on your page it's 5 in the morning I live in Fairbanks Alaska I've got concrete in 2 hours so I can't watch all of it right now but you're on the team. The Apocalypse team😅💥 I'll check you out more of your stuff later I just wanted you to know. I appreciate your intellect.
Ingenious! Love your projects. Just the fact that you got the spacing of the pulleys exact so the belt was tensioned perfectly (without any adjustment) is mind boggling to me.
La construction de son mécanisme me plaît beaucoup, c'est travaillé à la perfection un ouvrage très pratique et une minutie assez rare dans ce type de vidéo.
Nice build and setup. Now modify it so that the gear part (part you are cutting) is on a vertical adjustable plate and you will have a perfect gear making machine... Thumbs Up!
Excellent tutorial for tech savvy dudes. I have no words to thank you for the quality of the work, neatness of the craftmanship presented. well Done...👌👌👍👍❤❤
It is a good solution for what you have to work with. However, I hope people understand that the tooth profile is not correct. I was a gear cutter for several years also a tool & cutter grinder, so I also made the cutters. Gears are incredibly accurate parts! These tools and methods aren't the ones used by gear shops. Sometimes I had to make a cutter with the profile accurate to 0.0005 mm. That is not a typing mistake. While the gears work, it's not going to last as long or run as quietly as a properly cut gear.
I made a jig to do that on a mini lathe years ago. The gears I could make weren't perfect, but still very usable. The only problem I found was that sometimes a certain diameter of circle just wouldn't work, and you'd end up with the gear getting munched up as the teeth on the tap would line up with teeth on the gear (Rather than the valley's) after it made a full revolution. It was still a useful tool though. The only thing I'd have done differently on your standalone unit would have been to mount the cutter WAY higher than the centre line of the gear blanks platform. That way you could adjust the height of contact to suit the blank using shim plates. If it was made this way you could also make gears with a hub mounting boss sticking out of the side. Apart from that, it's a really nicely thought out (And made) piece of kit.
Of course this would happen, because the size of the circle determines how many teeth it can fit. Or in other words, the total circumference of the circle needs to be multiplied by the size of the tooth being cut into it.
@@peoplez129 To an extent yes, but it wasn't quite that simple. I'm not sure if I can describe it clearly, but if you started with a blank that had the exact circumference you needed for it to theoretically finish on a whole tooth, it still wouldn't necessarily work. The problem was that (For example) if you wanted a 10tpi gear with 100 teeth, you'd "know" that you'll need a blank with a 10" circumference, so a diameter of 3.183". The thing is though, when you start cutting on the 3.183" circle with the tips of the cutters teeth you'll have that 10tpi, but when those teeth are fully formed they'll be somewhere around 0.1" deep, so the effective root diameter will end up 0.2" smaller, and this new diameter may NOT be devisable into a whole tooth count. As I said, I'm not sure I've got the words to fully explain what I'm trying to say (It's 06:30 here at the minute, and I still haven't managed to get to sleep, so that doesn't help. :D). I found that way I needed to do was very slightly oversize the blank and start with a deep enough cut for the cutter to have a path of least resistance to follow on it's second pass. This usually resulted in one tooth looking too wide until the gear was finished, but every time it went round it would be taking material off the leading face of the teeth before it, both sides of the fat tooth, and the trailing side of the ones following it. Once the teeth get part formed then the gear sort of guides itself and it'll be OK, but it seems that a difference of 0.01" on the diameter could be enough to prevent it starting to do this self guiding. I hope this makes enough sense for you to work out what I'm TRYING to say. I've got a horrible feeling that I'll re-read this later and even I won't be able to follow what my sleep deprived brain's been wittering on about.
Fantastic - I have just been introduced to Free Hobbing for Worm gear making...and One thing I struggle a little with on the Micro lathe, in having taps that are Not long enough down the lathe bed is that I can't make Worm gears over 140mm in size. I can see this Jig being Perfect for doing almost any size - the Chuck is the sticking point on the lathe, but if I built a Purpose "Tap chuck" or even just where I can mount the Tap in a sleeve that brings it further out into the Lathe bed I should also be able to make a sled to go in place of the Tool stock which suits the size of gear I want to make. But regardless - I am adding a Small gear tool like this to my project list, I love the idea of Undercutting the gear then flipping it over to get a Standard toothed Gear. How about Self-Indexing that you get from Free Hobbing - isn't it just Mysteriously Unbelievable!!!!
it is funny that youtube recommended this video to me and the first thing i see on the thumbnail is that you are using a Thread Former Tap and not a cutting tap. as the name says its made to form a thread by pushing material aside and not to cut it. that nobody saw that is even more amazing
I like the idea very much! 2 points of attention, 1; the tap should turn the other way, then the cutting force on the sprocket would be down making it much more rigid. 2; I would make a height adjustment option for the sprocket so that you can make straight spur gears. cheers ben.
@@seanporter8821j'y pensais à la première remarque, c'est à peu près sûr qu'il utilise un moteur à courant continu donc très facile d'inverser le sens de marche puisque c'est juste un échange de polarité, et aucun doute que ce monsieur est assez imaginatif pour coupler un petit inverseur à son moteur, enfin ci s'il voulait travailler avec un moteur à courant alternatif il peut essayer de récupérer un moteur de volet roulant extrêmement puissant et fiable avec une inversion de rotation toute aussi facile à réaliser, vous montez ou descendez vos volets à l'aide d'un simple interrupteur inverseur je pense même que c'est l'idéal s'il veut travailler en courant alternatif.
very cool little gizmo but how do you work out what size of gears you can make? Each gear would potentially have teeth that didnt mesh when you finish cutting all the way round the circumferance if you don't get the correct sized round for each set of gears you want to make thanks for sharing
From easy equation for module that is M = reference diameter/number of teeth, or M=Total Diameter/(number of teeth - 2) or M=circumferential scale/pi (circumferential scale is from google translate, not sure if it's called like that in english, it's just the distance from one point on one theeth to the same point on another teeth) hope it helps,
You're going to want the blank disc tight to the surface in a small device like this. I doubt there is a ton of clamping force here. Open space just allows "chatter" to happen.
if you must use a tap, try a whitworth 55°. gives a slightly lower pressure angle of 27.5°... an iso tap will give a 30° pressure angle. traditional gears run 20°. if you look at a gear hob you see the teeth or "threads" are much sharper, pointier, deeper... narrower. the included angle is 40°. occasionally 14.5° pops up. as the pressure angle increases, the load on the teeth becomes more radial, which loads shafts and bearings, as the pressure angle decreases the teeth tend to become long and flimsy. 20 degrees has been found to be a nice compromise between the two to the point its now virtually standard. because the work isnt being driven by its own geartrain, this operation is more accurately termed "gashing". hobbing is a varied topic, can do more than just gears with them!
This is good I will try to make this. Would this be better with a larger tap as the smaller the tap the more hollow the teeth on the gear and would only grip on the edge
it's ONLY suitable for worm gears (or matching gears cut the same way) - since it cuts teeth slightly at angle - to make it a real gear you need to tilt tap by the same angle, so teeth will be straight, and it called gear hobbing
Probably by using the thread pitch of the tap to determine how many teeth per mm then figure how many teeth you need in the gear and multiply by the distance between the teeth to get your final diameter
Your speed and diameter is going to dictate the number of teeth. What it seems like he’s doing is simply letting the tap cut. I’ll bet he didn’t take the angle of the taps thread in to consideration,that would make better running gears. Former gear cutter, you have speed, feed, pitch and cutter angle to cut correct gears. Your just playing around with something that kinda works.
@@morris4069 I don't think the speed matters in the case because the teeth will line up inside the tap threads without depending. You just have to make sure the diameter of the circle will give even teeth spacing
Nice work. I may have to use some of these ideas for my next project, but the gears I need are 13mm thick so the blank will have to raise very slowly as it turns. Again, nice job and thanks for sharing.
Another comment suggested to mount the tap higher, and then shimming beneath the gear being cut to move it one shim thickness at a time. I think the real difficulty might be aligning things so that the teeth are lined up.
There may be a way to use hand taps. Use two taps, geared together and out of phase, so when one is in the gap the other is cutting. Once you get it cutting correctly and cut opposite sides or similar, it should work well enough and maybe cheaper or easier than finding machining taps.
Have you considered placing the gear blank holder on the other side of the cutter so that the cutting action presses the gear blank into the holder instead of trying to lift it off the holder - I suspect this would reduce vibration and improve cutting accuracy.
Wait so you can't change the tool? If that's the case then it's pretty useless, not only you have to change the tool once in a while when it's used up but also you can only cut one module but even if you overlook that then theres still a problem because even whithin the same module diferent sized gears (as in 12 teeth vs 36teeth etc) have to be cut with diferent tools because teeth have diferent shapes based on the number of teeth (again even within the same module). Feel free to correct me if im wrong :)
I don’t understand how the cutting tool cuts more than it is cut. Is it because of a difference in the materials? But then, how was the cutting tool cut to have the shape it has, in order to be a cutting tool? Do they cut it and then change the material properties in some way so that it is [strong or hard or whatever the right adjective is] enough to use for cutting things? I also don’t understand how the cutting tool in this case manages to rotate the gear-to-be in addition to cutting it?
Nice work. I'm surprised that you didn't take advantage of the Tap's center for more support at the bottom of the tap. Especially when cutting tougher material like steel. Wakodahatchee Chris
Very nice. It must be pointed out, though, that diameter is extremely critical for the gear disk. The circumference, more to the point. The circumference at the bottom of the cuts must be divisible by the number of teeth per inch of the tap, to a whole number, so as the gear rotates around to the origin, the tap teeth and the first gear tooth line up exactly. Also the resulting gear will work best with a worm gear driving it, made from a bolt of same thread pitch as the tap. Trying to drive this gear from a standard gear or vice versa will not work very well, because the bottom of the cuts is not straight, but curved, unless you make several cuts, raising or lowering the gear. Also the teeth are not perpendicular but at an angle, so the angle would have to be matched on the other gear for good mesh. For very thin gears this would be less of an issue. Overall, I like it a lot. I may even build something similar, perhaps with a chuck to accept different taps, or maybe with a high quality hand drill as both tap chuck and motor.
Après avoir regardé ce type de vidéo c'est vrai qu'on peut émettre toute sortes de critiques , pour ce qui est de votre idée d'utiliser une perceuse qui permettrait de changer de tarauds là encore suffisamment d'imagination chez notre concepteur pour intégrer un mandrin sur le roulement et je suis quasiment certain que c'est pour cette solution qu'il opterait.
I was going to make some custom drive gears for my extruder... This looks perfect. But i think I'll skip some of the glued bits. A drill and socket should be plenty for driving.
This is awesome! One thing I don't understand is how the teeth automatically line up with the circumference? Are the disks taken down to a very specific radius so the teeth line up for the profile of the cutter? I can imagine if you choose a radius too big or too small the teeth would under/overcut the last tooth? I don't understand this.
I may be wrong, but this seems quite similar to knurling where you need a specific radius for the blank you're cutting - based on the Tooth Per Inch of the cutting tool you'll be using (there are calculators online for this). So these gear blanks are likely cut to a precalculated size before being machined into gears.
