Me as well. Think I would have used some Hex stock and made a slim nut out of that. Doesn't matter but a internal thread gauge to get it closer, but assuming you got one.
It is very nice to see accessories made in smaller sizes for use on smaller machines particularly for thos eof us who only do model engineering. Not everyone owns a Huge lathe or a Bridgeport. Thanks.
A fella needs a min of 3 for sure. I have 7. Mine are shorter and I used a fine thread on them. Your little lathe still serves you well my friend. Great project today fella !
I have my own homemade jacks they come in handy. Richard one thing to consider is I keep connecting nuts in various threads so in the situation like you had I can chuck on those. Or you can drill and tap out short pieces of stock for that purpose.
Hi James, yes, a very good idea. I have planned on making a complete set of nuts for all the most common sizes to chuck on but never seem to get around to it and swapping to a collet when in a hurry gets tedious. Gripping bolts with aluminum soft jaws destroys them pretty quickly. Thanks for tuning in, I appreciate ya~ Richard
Haven't got any "real" machinist jacks made yet, so far have just clobbered bolts together, but it's on the "to do" list. Gotta love when your buddy/customer/neighbor/whomever needs something done and then you realize after accepting the job that you need to make a tool or two to do the job! Nice result!
Very nice jack...I love custom tools...just had to throw this in...a jack with a vee cut top piece that you bring up to your shaft and hold it there while you turn the base to tighten it up might be a fun adaptation of this jack. Great job!
Thanks! I like that idea, could always make another top piece. Thanks for stopping by Robert. I shared your channel with a few friends...you do great work ~ Richard
If you decide to make one I hope you make a video of it...don't think there is one out there with a vee top...or one with say a set of different useful tops and maybe even different types of bottoms...worth some thought...tnx for the kind words...bob
No particular reason really.....I saw a comment you made on another channel referencing being in the survey industry a while back. I have 2 brothers that are surveyors. Have a great week
Great project and video as always! I'm always jealous when I hear your Atlas run. SOOOOO much quieter than mine. Once upon a time I thought I might go to the trouble of remaking all the worn parts to try to quiet mine down, but I think I've moved on to a new love with the Logan. You do a great job of highlighting just what can be accomplished with an Atlas, however.
Hey Rich you are more talented than I thought you are after seeing this video.Your first video I saw was the one where you turned some 4140 pins and all the trouble you were having machining them.I have written a lengthy advice on how to go about it hopefully didn't offend was only trying to be helpful.
Hahah, The 4140 video doesnt really paint the best picture of what I can do over on the lathe. I never get offended by anyone that is truly offering helpful suggestions like yours. I will reply to your other one later after I am done mowing grass. I agree, it wasnt my finest hour in the 4140 clips but I always share my vids, good or bad....STUFF HAPPENS 😊 ~ Richard
A good video, thanks for taking the time to make and share it! I do wonder, if instead of the extra time to mill out the bottom piece so it sits 'flat on the machine surface, if three hardened ball bearing feet could be more useful, as it seems to me that your lathe/mill surface plates would be square to the axis of the machines themselves?
Great idea but think of the challenges of lapping them all in once seated to a "depth" It can be done like surface gauges I suppose. Thanks for watching & Happy Holidays! 😊🎉
@@MakinSumthinFromNuthin I'm thinking a large endmill, reversed in the mill could be used to press precision harden balls into the reamed holes, perhaps in a mounted rotating center head on the mill.
I see your left thumb is a member of the black nail club Rick - of which I have been a member several times! Great result with the jack - I have made a few and hardly use them but ...... better to have and not need very often!! :)
Sort of, was driving 3" wood screws with a corded drill into a wood swing set with a Phillip's bit in the drill. Bit slipped off the head of the screw and with full force went into the center of my thumbnail cause I was holding the work next to the screw location when bit slipped off........ bit bottomed out when it hit the bone.
My 2 cents worth on Jack screws, in a job shop you don't have the time to do all that Machineing.I did make several bases in different lengths and a couple of standard off the shelf jam buts but the major screw length was a simple 1/2-20 threaded bolt. Measure the length you need and get a bolt from the bin. Face it if you need to or machine to fit the job. Throw in box in your toolbox and soon you have a set and no more running around.
I totally agree, but I only do occasional work for people and had time. Plus needed some content for the channel so made it nicer than it needed to be. Thx for watching ~ Richard
How do you cut A36 without getting cat tongue finish? I usually have to resort to using the toolpost grinder to get a decent finish on A36. I make all my Jack's out of 303 or 304.
Well off camera I did hit the base of the jack with some 400 grit for about 30 seconds or so for appearance sake. I usually resort to a HSS shear tool for final finishes on mild steel
I had a similar problem, no matter what tool or grind I used, on 4140 type. My short answer to that and several other aggravations was in getting my big spindle bearing adjusted properly. Getting a decent machine finish (and parting off) isn't nearly so difficult now. Retiring my "Tourettes" lantern tool post may make more of a difference. I am also a fan of the vertical shear tool. I found that multiple spring passes improves even that. My theory on that is every tool leaves high and low spots on the surface, every time the tool is moved across with the carriage power feed, it does so on a slightly different path, giving the tool a chance to take off the higher area that it missed on the previous one. I'd probably have to get a microscope to visually confirm that. Often, an old lathe like mine has it's lowest feed rate at somewhere around .006/rev, and a single pass cut will often have a 'threaded' look to it, even with the shear tool. For What It's Worth: On my last project where I used the vertical shear, I needed an easy slip fit to the mating part. On the first pass, it sized to a very snug fit. When I moved the carriage back to the starting position, I didn't bother with retracting the tool, and it left a rub mark on the part, indicating to me that there was spring pressure still in play. Understandable, I'm guessing, since the chip size indicated that the depth of cut was on the aggressive side for the shear tool. I decided to experiment a little, left the cross feed where it was and made a spring pass. I got what I expected, more and much finer whisker chips. When I moved the carriage back, as I'd done previously, there were no rub marks, but the result of the test fit to the mating part was still a little too tight for what I had in mind. The second spring pass still produced chips, at that point I decided to ride that particular horse 'til it died. The final tally came up to 8 spring passes, 6 that produced chips (the last were "finer than frog hair, split 3 ways," so that I had to put a clean rag under the work to catch and see them), the 7th produced none that I could see, the 8th pass was to confirm the 7th. Finish was not polished mirror by any stretch, but it was the closest I've ever come to it without going to abrasives. The fit ... better than i expected. Easy slip, no binding anywhere, even when the two parts were wiped dry of oil, yet no wiggle between the two could be detected with the assembly in hand. Considering the result I got, that M.O. might be worth trying again and seeing how easy it would be to repeat it. With different machines, operators, materials, the results may vary widely.
Hi Rich , I hope your doing all right. Last time we talked you were having problem's. With the city or something like that. Well they should be held acountable for the problem. There the ones that say everything is all right. Any they and sign off on it. If they were they should had to move anything you had to move. That's to bad all ways happen to the nice people. I really in joyed your video's. But know time for that time to move on to better things. Hey Rich. Hey you know how on a milling machine were you put the endmills they have that little tit up there. The person who own it before me must not of tighten he's endmills because. I can just feel a nib in there. Is that little tit needed. I hope your doing well in these times. Thanks for your videos again.😉