I've made a few drawbars for my horizontal mill as well. One of the easier ones I made (for 50 taper tools) consisted of 1"-8 tpi threaded rod that I cut to length. I placed a flange nut on the end like you did, but I then threaded a second flange nut against it (flange to flange) and tightened the shit out of them. The first nut was then cross drilled for a roll pin. After the roll pin was inserted I backed the second nut off and the first nut was very rigidly held to the threaded rod. This method works because the first nut is jammmed up hard against the thread flanks by the second nut. Once the roll pin is inserted the first nut cannot move axially (nor can it rotate) and stays jammed against the thread flanks, making a rigid connection. I've done it a few times and it's worked pretty well. There's nothing worse than trying to use a shitty drawbar. Ken
All machinists could benefit from having a big Johnson...😉 Nice simple but very necessary project Always a good day when you feel like it was a worthwhile way to spend the time to do it Thanks for sharing Josh
@@StuartsShed it helps to actually watch silent with captioning. I really like the guy, and he is good, but he is so monotone in his videos. Not that way on the phone or in person.
Just curious, are you using red 262 or 272? I'm assuming 272 given the application you're using it for. A lot of us in the radio control helicopter world use 262 for it's holding strength and resistance to turning if it does break loose but without the necessity for heat if we need to disassemble it.
When you inserted the draw bar into the mill the flange nut went into the draw bar support. Does the support unbolt from the over arm and move to the front when you need it?