Making a part: Flux capacitor bushings 

You should set realistic goals.

If I understood it correctly, "not too bad" equals about 5 microns. Should be ok for most.

@@siegfriedkettlitz6529, Lol!

It's akin to Clickspring's 'presentable'

Don’t we all?

Thank you!

It was finished. Just not yet! 🤯

He’s still waiting on the Mr. Fusion to arrive from Amazon to power it up.

We’d know it’s finished, when there’s no more content, cause he’d probably leave this time period. Lol

@@robertpearson8798I fear Elon's got his hands in this holdup

No Musk in my projects.

Sounds like owning a boat :D Thanks for chiming in on that topic, Peter!

Thank you!

BTW short before CNC machines arrived to my country.

Interesting, thanks for telling!

I was thinking along the similar lines, like these might be guides for wire into some machine that works with wire. Perhaps straightening wire that comes off a spool, or winding straight wire into a round shape as for a coil or spring.

@@gregfeneis609 they wouldn’t work for straightening wire. For that you need to break the elastic point in the wire’s bends. You do that by offsetting pulleys or rotating a die system. The rotating offset die system is the most used because you break the elasticity in every direction, not only in one. It’s hard for me to explain it better, I’m not that articulated.

@@thigtsquare950 yes I'm familiar with the roller mechanism that you describe. I was thinking this part would be the entry nozzle to that roller mechanism you're describing. I wasn't thinking this nozzle would be the only thing required for wire straightening

Remembering than English is not his first language (and taking into account his considerable grasp of issues related to accurate work) I think what Stephan probably meant is that as the mandrel is stroked out of the bore, the centering "pressure" (really, the proper word is force) on the diamond mandrel drops eventually to zero, so that the mandrel will nutate (wobble) due to geometrical and balance imperfections in the rotational movement. Because of the high rotational speed, centrifugal forces will make the nutation self reinforcing. When it is in the bore, it becomes somewhat constrained from that wobble, as the hole acts like a steady. Consequently on re-entry to the bore, bell mouthing is inevitable, because initially it is easier for the mandrel to cut the work rather than be deflected, (because of the higher "pressure per surface of unit area" you mention - again, it's really *force per unit of area* . Which is what "Pressure" actually means, technically speaking). This progressively changes until it enters far enough that there is enough contact with the mandrel for deflection to be easier (produce less bending moment) than cutting, so as to largely eliminate that nutation. But in the meantime, a subtle bell or trumpet mouth is being formed at each end. Nutation only predominates when the cutting portion of the mandrel exits and then re-enters the work. The effect you describe (which does not involve nutation) also happens, but it's much more subtle.

I re-listened to Stefan to make sure I had not misunderstood his intent. He says it's important not to stroke too far out, or completely, because you will "suddenly lose pressure on the diamond tool". So it seems clear to me that he's talking about the steadying pressure [by which he clearly means force] (which is lost altogether when you exit the hole, and compromised as you get near to the exits). It is not plausible that he would not know that a loss of CUTTING pressure involves LESS material removal, not more.

Thanks! Agree on the reson bond mandrel. As for the bellmouthing - What you describe is what I tried to say :D

@StefanGotteswinter I figured as much, it just seemed like a useful clarification to make. Thanks for all your work and teaching, Stefan. I've learned a lot from your channel. Looking forward to the next one!

@Gottenhimfella Yeah, I didn't mean to imply that he wasn't aware of the mechanics of the situation, I was mostly just trying to clarify for anyone who would not have understood what he was trying to say, as the intent of the message and the actual words just didn't seem to line up. Stefan is on a whole different level than most of us, and I have a world of respect for the man's talent and willingness/ability to teach. On another note, thank you for continuing to clarify the topic, as your input on the scenario of fully withdrawing the tool means the whole situation is described here pretty well.

Yep, very aware, thanks! The dust extractor is rated for "it will kill you slowly and painful"-materials and I wear a mask when doing major carbide work.

Thank you very much!

Thanks! Interesting, i prefer grinding carbide a bit, because i find material removal way quicker than on steel. But it comes with its own challenges.

Sir, this is a R-rated channel :D (Also if you leave the "h" out of phorn, you end up in the deep hole drilling section of the internet.)

@@StefanGotteswinter 🤣

@@StefanGotteswinterthat's dependant on the aspect ratio of the tool you're using

And the Dioptic of the viewing tool @@Andrew_Fernie

Yeah, way better than I would have expected, going into that project.

They would be OUTATIME.

Damn, yeah - Cardboard and Paper is realy good at dulling cutting tools. I find it less critical with bandsaws, but knife blades and circular saw blades realy take a beating. Another brutal things for blades is Rubber.

Very similar, yeah. As far as I know, these are not for drawing.

Usualy yes, but on that blank it was definetly burned.

Nope, its gone :-) Thats old footage from January.

Yep! But then I would only have cutting them to length left to be done by myself ;)

lapping a blind bore is rather painful, I have to say. You might need multiple laps, maybe even one, that is only a narrow band with nominal diameter on the front, so you can work the end of the bore, without bellmouting/wideing the remaining bore. If its only for surface finish, I would try polishing wood, cut with a nice, crisp sharp end, and some diamond compound to polish the bore that way.

Imagine a 100ish price tag for an individual part on this order. It was on the cheap side, because I also took it as an learning opportunity.

Thats still beeing remade :) The machine used is my Deckel S1 tool&cutter grinder.

@@StefanGotteswinterI was wondering if it would make sense to grind these bores on the S1.. I guess it depends on how well one can eliminate runout & taper in the workhead, & the ease of mounting the high speed head. Great content! Thanks.

Yes

Yes! Its the Quantumike with 2mm pitch. Love them, would recommend them 10/10. Just bought the 25-50.

Cool.@@StefanGotteswinter

Yeah, I try to use almost only paper and cardboard for stuffing material. Unfortunately theres no substitute for small plastic bags and some plastic foil.

Yep! Thats what one would do on a machine with a C-Axis (5-axis cnc).

@@StefanGotteswinter or just a slow simultanius 2D action/movement ( X and Z ) and a moter with a chock spinning independed of the machine it self we just used it at work a few weeks ago and it worked perfectly or haveing the part in tool holder and diegrindr standing up in a vise ( that way the mill will pretty much become a lathe with live tooling in. did that back as a apprentis with flarless resoult's. good precision. stable process. good serface finish and fast )