Very nice video Ian, I appreciate your learning curve, and not being afraid to share. I've learned so much from your leather vids. Thank you very much for sharing your amazing talent!
Here's something a bit different, it's a video about putting a leather inlay into a dovetail box and then sealing it in with resin. This was a bit experimental but it worked out nicely in the end so I thought it was worth sharing. If you're not interested in woodwork stuff then of course it's probably not of interest to you, I may have a couple of woodwork videos coming out in amongst the leather ones so just skip over any you don't want to watch. If you want to actually learn how to make a dovetail box have a look at videos by Paul Sellers, David Barron, Rob Cosman etc., I'm not here to teach anyone woodwork as I have no experience just to give a few ideas. Remember the Black Friday sale is still on my Etsy shop until Monday as well if you want anything off there, please see previous video for details
I saw the thumbnail photo for your video and I thought that the plaque was brass and lacquer and assumed that the leather portion would be tool holders inside the box. Boy was I wrong! And good work on the box itself BTW.
Hello Ian, Excellent video, as always. Thank You. I believe that a resin pour that you sand, accidentally or otherwise is not ruined. Brush a little resin onto the scratches and You're fine. You mentioned some river table videos, where excessive sanding or even sawing is not unusual, a thin new layer of resin fixes that. Cheers...
Really enjoyed this. Brought back memories of my childhood in the 1970s - setting seahorses in resin....I think the game was called Isopon...the same name as the resin repair kits.
Ian, Greetings from Canada. Nicely done. I like that you're bringing leather craft and woodworking together. I would like you to know that I found your videos on RU-vid quite a while ago and they got me into leather working and I'm having a blast. Thank you!
Excellent video, very informative and a resolute approach. I think the idea was a success. Thanks for sharing as it would assist a lot of people making the same mistakes. Outcome looks brilliant. Please do more video's mixing woodwork and leather craft, you just need to add bookbinding to the mix that would be me set for future viewing. Respect and regards from Port Elizabeth South Africa.
Wow, that turned out well. Thank you for sharing the parts that didn't work. Sometimes I think I'm the only one that boogers it up on the first few tries. You seemed more energetic in this video so I hope that's a sign of your improved health.
I wonder if just slightly over filling it and dragging a straight edge across it to one side where you could make a catch resivior for the excess? But I think it looks great as is I can imagine trying to get it exactly flush to be quite a task
Ian: I really like your videos, they are very informative. I am a sailor and have several rigging knives that need sheaths. Even though the knives are stainless, SS will still rust around salt water. Kydex is probably a better sheath for an ocean going sailboat, but I just like leather. My question for you is, can you offer advice on waterproofing a leather sheath during the build, and care of the sheath if/when it gets wet on an ocean passage. I will not be on a big ship, my boat is a 33 foot sailboat.
Leather and salt water don’t mix, you can try all manor of proofing but it’s always going to be a bit of a losing battle. Have you seen the salt series of knives by Spyderco? They are rust proof
Nice. At an epoxy class they told me that it shrinks a bit when it cures. You can sand it clear, but I think the shop I was at was using wet/dry sandpaper up to 1800 or 3000 grit.
I have been a hobbyist woodworker for decades now, and got into leatherwork some years back because of a woodworking video I saw where they added some leatherwork to the woodwork project (I cannot remember now what it was unfortunately) but I thought "leatherwork looks like fun, and some of my woodwork skills should carry over." I love your project! Both the concept and the execution of it. I've done a little bit with casting resin in the past too, so I'd like to advise you about sunlight exposure to your project--UV will harm the resin over time, causing it to develop an amber cast to it. I recommend spraying the entire project with a marine spar varnish to protect both the wood and the resin from UV. Being in a protected indoor environment, I expect that a one-time application would last the lifetime of the project (unlike outdoor projects that require refinishing periodically). Again, outstanding work Ian!
I don't fully understand how the sir made the leather dark and light. Is it because it pressed it flatter or because it squeezed out the oils that gave it color? Maybe seeing it up close or in person would make it obvious. Amazing work. Looking forward to any more crossover projects. Drill bit sorter video maybe coming?
i think, im not sure, but I think if you go through the grits while WET sanding you can bring the resin back to clarity...gotta do some research on this myself
hi ian , great job , im a wood machinist your woodworkings great , did you do the dovetails your self? im gonna look for some printing plates is there many with pics about thx for your time and effort
Pour higher than the wood surface, just enough where the resin won't break the surface and run onto the wood surface. Then Sand, Yes sand the resin down. You'll get rid of the wavy surface on the resin. You only need to go down to about 600 wet. Then spray the poly over the resin. You'll end up with a wet glossy look. I used to do this for wooden dashboards on classic sports cars years ago.
I find some resins are hard to sand a perfect clear finish alone on so buff with some vonax on my leather scraps and tends to give flawless finish on most resins and plastics. Any high colour low cut plastic compound would work so don't need that brand. I also use it on ECA coated and PMMA preg'd wood for knife handles albeit on a mop rather than hand buffed on scraps. Just make sure you prep well, when build up grits make sure no contamination of grits cleaning off between step ups and use wet sand ideally (you can add stuff to kill water surface tension but isn't needed imho unlike some things), ultrafine wirewool works well for me too in the middle steps. Even if it looks a little cloudy once you finished the cut start the high colour buff and it will turn water clear fast as f***.
Just curious as to why you weighed the resin rather than measuring it. Is that in the instructions? If the specific gravity of the two liquids is not the same, then your 2:1 ratio would be off. It appears to have worked well, so no harm done, but that may have just been good fortune
I'd seen people do that in some of the tutorials I'd read, it seemed simpler than trying to use a measuring jug. I hadn't really though about the densities being any different to be honest
There are some tolerances anyway - if you pour too little hardener, it will take longer to cure. In my experience, temperature seems to play a larger role (as long as you get your quantities close enough) - if it's too cold, it will have bubbles, or in the worst case - it will never solidify, and you'd get a gooey, honey-like layer.
I could be wrong...but I'd imagine wet sanding up to maybe 2000 grit and then a scratch remover etc from halfords would probably do the trick on the surface of the resin, it might help you if you do anymore resin projects, great job by the way
