Making A Silicone Glove Mold 

"test failed successfully" . This was a great video. a lot of cool concepts at play with this project.

Thank you for being so generous with your wisdom sir. These are free master classes, what a time to be alive. 👍🏾

Another amazing video, I learn more from one of your videos than dozens of other people's. Slowly, I'm beginning to get the confidence to try this as a hobby, thanks

You are not only good at what you do, but you are interesting to watch as well. Big thanks to you

Wow wow wow what an absolute craftsman you are... Inspired of England 👍

Since I have been following your videos I have learned more in the last few months than I have in the past 10 years of my mold making experience. I typically do brush on molds for glove molds. But this technique is very interesting. I honestly at first was thinking wtf is he doing? Lol then it made too much sense. Lol thanks for all your help.

I love how you threw in the little lesson about beeswax. Great video!

Just saw your channel a few days ago, and I'm hooked on your videos! ❤

You always make it look easy. There's no substitute for experience and you have more of it than most. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

This felt like a masterclass! Whoa I feel like I just learnt so much even the interlocking of the cuts of the rubber was genius I would have never thought of doing it but it makes so much sense

I could seriously watch you do this all day, so informative and so calm, great video sir, canot wait to see how she comes out 👍

That curing test did a really good job of establishing inconclusivity.

You know how to keep me on the edge of my seat. This technique has been in the back of my mind for a long time but I never visualized how to get it done. Now I do not need to work it out. As always , great to see you work. Thanks Robert, you are the man!

An other awesome video Robert!!! You are the best!!! Thank you for share your knowledge, I have more than 15 years of experience making rubber molds but with your tutorials I continue learning day by day. Greetings from Argentina!!!

Found your channel like two weeks ago and have been running through your whole backlog!

Wonderful video. So many great techniques shown here.

I love you’re tutorials! Thanks for you knowledge and skills! Greetings from Russia!

Ok wow, I would never have thought about making a mold this way. So cool. Thanks for another great video!!

it is absolutely enthralling to watch you work. your knowledge of rubber, resin and the science of casting and curing, your craftsmanship and handyman skills, even your theories on evolution and the history of tool making are bar none the pinnacle of professional paragon. it would be an honor to shadow you in your shop as an apprentice, to learn from a true master artiste. i didnt even know i had a passion for mold making and resin casting until i watched your channel. until then, it was a hobby and i was simply searching for tips but after watching your setup, your artistic process, your willy wonka-esque production facility, i feel inspired and have redoubled my efforts to create unique molds. i thoroughly enjoy learning from you, i cannot express my gratitude for the trouble you have saved me already by providing solutions to things i didnt realize were going to be problems. i hope one day that i will be able to step up from working out of shoeboxes in the back of someone elses shop and have my own production studio. heres to looking forward to your new videos, to learning how much more there is that i dont know and how much i havent even considered, and to finding out how much deeper this rabbit hole goes.

Always a pleasure to watch your videos Robert, and always I learn new things, and I want to thank you for that!

Thanks a lot for your kind videos Mr. Tolone... I´ve really learn a lot with you. I´m a sculptor but also I'm interested on doing my own molds and castings.

Thank you for the amazing, informative content again. The original sculpture definitely appears to be have been made on an FDM 3D printer. My experience is that most filaments for FDM printers do not have the same issue of rubber not setting, in comparison to liquid resins used in SLS/resin printers.

Great lesson! Thanks, Robert!

Great video as always can’t wait for next week

Now I need some beeswax. Your videos just gave me an idea to put wax on the walls of a 3d printed mold box

Well done, Robert. I was anxious to see how that hair would come out. Looking forward to the next video!

Got hooked right until the end, very eager to see the result next week!

FYI Cure Inhibition. I've seen this frequently and know how to get around it. UV resin catalyst (when not 100.00% mixed and fully cures) and the cleaning solvents generally cause Platinum based silicone cure Inhibition. Those chemicals are binding to the platinum catalyst and neutralizing them. You can reduce inhibition by: baking part (150-200F for an hour). Also waiting 2-3 weeks after printing helps, both give catalyst time to dry out or hardened. There is a special chemical made to fight platinum inhibition for UV resin, Inhibit-X. It's basically 0.1% platinum catalyst agent plus thinner solution. It works amazing and lasts a while. It's a dip in solution (or thin brush on), remainder of unused solution can be poured back into bottle.

hugs Robert! as always this was a great tutorial.

aluminum duct tape is what I use with tinfoil to make armatures under polymer clay- The wax worked very well too!

Love this guy - my new utube relax channel

Thank you so much your videos are the most informative and easy to grasp! Keep up the good work, good sir! 🥳

Wonderful stuff. Thank you.

You already did something here similar to what I am going to do, but the process is easier. A friend walked me through the process. It is so easy, I feel very confident that I can do it. But, instead the rubber is painted on in thin layers, and is so stretchy, that it literally peels back onto itself like a glove. No parting lines whatsoever. It is perfect to cast doll heads or the dolls that I want to cast.

I love your videos, just started watching your channel, I dont do cast but enjoy miniatures and for some reason this was suggested to me, now Im thinking to start casting as a hobby

Oh man. I was so curious to see what the flaw in the mold would do to the casting. And then the video ended. ^_^ Nice video and nice project, Robert. Looking forward to see the casting.

Very good. You are a great teacher.

Thanks Bob another interesting video . Never been a big fan of clay myself but like you said sometimes it's just got to be done .

That's interesting to watch. Well done 👍

12:30 - "You know what the difference is?" - me: "IT'S BEESWAX!"

Fantastic.

Thanks for sharing, I think glove molds have to be pretty stressful to deal with, you've got the model in there and the mold itself trying to wiggle em out must be pretty tough. Cya in the next video.

Brilliant video, Robert - and a slight "Wow!" from me about the beeswax-vs-petroleum jelly difference! Shame about the eye speck, though... :(

sometimes i feel like this whole channel is an elaborate ploy to sell bees wax. thank you for sharing your information with us mr. tolone!

Superb!

Those aluminum foil condoms are handy when you don’t wanna run to the art store. Also. I like your drill, haven’t seen one of those in decades.

You are amazing.

If you're creating a mold from a 3D model, you can use the 3D file - expand it - and 3D print a mother mold for your glove mold to go into. Removes so many steps. I'm sure it could even be done by using a 3D scanner to scan a master where you don't have the 3D file. If you ever try this, make sure to expand the surface of the master - don't just scale it up because that won't work. Added benefit; you can exactly compute the volume of the glove mold, though then you're deep into your 3d software.

If you're able to turn the mould inside out, then you could possibly repair the few spots that tore out by attaching small quantities of rubber that will inversely translate into indents on the final piece. Whether than would work in practice, (at all or partially), can only be answered by doing it, I guess.

i sell silicone rubbers and do 3D printing! If you ever need to cast a 3D print it's usually SLAs (resin prints) that inhibit silicones due to the sulphur content, giving it a post cure and using an enamel spray over the surface usually helps with any silicone inhibition! Also printing in a clear resin will make sure the UV penetrates further throughout the print :)

Older times I used to make some small modelling molds for white metal cast, I used glicerine as detaching agent. It worked ok.

Weighing the used clay should provide a good estimate for how much rubber is needed. Well, plus the space the foil used. Lubricating the outside might help sliding it off. Sometimes the friction makes it much worse.

Brilliant video, can you explain why you didn’t use fibreglass and resin for the outer shell? We use a fibreglass and resin frequently in the uk

Good video

Hey Robert. I can’t tell you how much I’ve loved your videos. They’re the best guides you can find anywhere on silicone molding. I’ve applied much of your techniques to great effect. Question: Where do you go to get your wax products? And what is the tool called that you use to apply the wax. If this info is in another video I haven’t gotten to yet then maybe someone can link it to me. Thanks

With the beauty coat (eyes, hair, etc) does dipping the brush in degassed rubber not introduce air bubbles? I've never tried that approach but always feared that would be the case. I always pour on and brush outward but my method can certainly be more tricky than simply brushing directly on.

Another great video, Bob, Thank You. If you weigh the clay you will get a very good idea how much rubber you're going to use, assuming you know the SG of clay and rubber. Best Regards Jez

Hey Rob, any tips for molding and casting miniatures for tabletop role playing games? Love the content and the way you educate us. Thanks

Ι learned alot from this video! My heart sunk when I saw the little ripped piece of the mold in the eye. Im really curious about the fix. Maybe trying to put the sculpt back in and add abit of silicone with a brush? Instead of foil you could use cling wrap. Btw the sculp has alot of problematic areas and those print layer lines are going to reproduce

Hi Robert, I love your channel and have been a fan for a long time but never wrote a comment. I have a question about glove molds. I made a glove mold for a skull with silicone rubber and am having a tear issue on the cut when I cast resin skulls. The tear kept getting larger and larger and now I have to remake the mold. Do you have a technique or perhaps know of material I can add to my mold to reinforce the area that needs to be cut to free the castings?

I love beeswax

Wouldn't it have been a good idea to cover the clay by alu foil or saran before putting the resin on to save 10+ minutes of cleanup?

Hey Robert, is there any downside to gently heating the clay in order to ease removal? The PLA on the 3D print isn't supposed to deform until it hits 60c (140f) so I'm thinking blow dryer?

Hey Robert I love watching your videos, I have a question for you, so I’m making an 11” figurine and I like doing the brush-on rubber mold so my question is what do I do to not have bubbles in the rubber or the resin? Thank you robert

Thank you for your lessons. I wonder if others are having the same questions that I have when I watch your tutorials..Would you please share a picture of the "Bee's Wax" or a material list with brand names? Also, where did you get that soldering iron/wax tool (what is it called) and what wax are you using to "glue" the foil?

1) That looks like an FDM print to me. Do those PLA/ABS/etc filaments also cause cure inhibition like resin prints tend to do? 2) Have you ever considered trying sticky wax? ;)

I liked your video but I had couple questions about things you didnt mention. What did you use to fill the gaps in the hair to avoid undercuts? Also how did you mount and keep scupt mounted to the board when replacing the mold halves in preparation for filling of the cavity with rubber?

Finally, a glove mould. Edit: Personally i would've just done a brush on mould.

Hi Robert, I was going over some of your old videos and I watched this one as well as another where you were making jackets. What struck me was that in this video, you make the jacket first and pour the rubber into it and in the other you brushed on the rubber and made the jacket over it. I'm wondering what kind of situations would be to use one or these techniques over the other.

Many of the 3D printing tools (slicers) provide a means to generating a mold, as the model is being printed. This bust of a woman is very, very detailed and cannot say how good of a mold will be/could be generated . I have not tried the mold feature (Ultimaker Cura 4.11) yet. Just a thought.

So what could be done to keep the clay from sticking to the shell? A mold release, beeswax? Would that then ruin that clay for future use?

Would spraying mold release on the clay partying line have helped you with taking the clay away in between making the two mold halves?

What kind of silicone molding compound do you use normally? I'm just taking the hobby up again after a fifteen year absence and I'm really behind on sourcing good material that doesn't cost me two limbs and a goat.

What about spraying the model with mold release?

Have you ever tried casting in other materials like cement or Jesmonite?

Do you have a video on just cutting your parting lines in silicone?

Hi Robart , I luv your videos, as well as the Craftman..this one though, ni think you got it wrong for a glove mould, i think it would have been easier to partition the original with a clay wall and keys, paint into and then layer up the silcon, (a dash of food dye )for alternate layers, to see coverage for each layer, say four layers, bit over an 1/8,...cake up, over the silicon (with whatever , your mud stuff, plaster, or even fiberglass), turn over and repeat for the second half....separate, and hole up with a cork bung for a good slush cast two piece...

I have a smallish question, which type of resin has the highest tensile strength? I want to make buttons out of resin and want them to be functionally useable.

Hi Robert! I'm a professional sculptor and I often have to do silicon/resin molds. I have this problem - and I've been trying to find a good solution for such a long time - that after the pour has cured the silicon/resin sticks to the wood/cardboard. Do you know of any substance that would prevent this?

bees wax is the best stuff in the world ... hahaha... 👍👍👍

Fantastic work! Great example of a technique I’ve never used. Quick question, why wouldn’t you just do a cut mold? Yes, it would use a lot of silicone (I’m sure 1-2 gallons if not more), but it seems like you spent hours upon hours making this mold, and time is money

Ok, letting my geek flag fly here... I do both casting and 3D printing. The easiest way to cast a model like this is to print the mold. How I do this, I load the model that is going to be printed/molded into a 3d modeling software, I then put it in a 'block' and subtract the original model from the 'block'. Next I split that block in two, then just up-scale it in the printing software by 10-20% and print the 'block', then print the model. What I then do is glue the model to a board (like Robert does) then I glue the 'block' to the board around the model, then pour in the silicone and you have a perfect "glove" mold. I have done this with crystal balls so I can then resin cast the crystal ball, I have done this with detailed models etc etc. Takes 10 mins on a PC then however long it takes on the printer. If you are looking at mass producing the model, you can even make multiple silicone casts of the same model/block over and over again

Water based clay is the key

Ok, Robert the question is, why didn’t you coat the tin foil with Bees Wax?

"Let's condomize this girl." I have searched my entire life for a vocation where I can say that legitimately and eureka I have found it!!!

What kind of stretchy mold material is he using? Name brand?

why not put it in the vacuum chamber when it's in the mold? is there some reason not to do that with silicone? or am i just totally off base asking dumb questions? i've never done this before, it just looks like a really neat hobby to go along with 3d printing which i already do.

Robert - next time try COMPRESSED AIR to liberate the lady.

I'd just like to point out that that bust wasn't printed with resin but with some kind of thermoplastic (PLA, PETG, ETC), so there shouldn't be any kind of cure inhibition.

Mold release would solved the majority of issues in this process.

I would have sprayed the clay with Crystal Clear, the clay would be easier to clean off.

The irony being that the person who supplied the model could have printed the outer shell too.

I think the print is not resin it seen to be fdm printing so there should be a problem of the material (probably pla) inhibiting the cure of the silicone 😁

that is such a long process, do 5 minutes then let it dry over night, do 5 minutes and let it dry, and let it dry again... but the good thing is, with the rigid resin case, you could use rigid expanding foam instead of a solid resin to save weight/cost/ etc.

Elongation Muskation

The phrase "aluminum foil condom" makes me wince. :{

Hi, Robert ) Check your email please. There is a mail from me

Compressed air would've saved cutting the mould and be used as an air wedge, it would've inflated the head and given birth to the model through the neck without needing to flip or cut.. reading this sounds very greek mythology lol

Great video as always can’t wait for next week