Hey up Geoff, the Diana 460 that I picked up of you on Saturday is brilliant mate , the more pellets I put through it the smaller the groups are getting, cheers Geoff 👍
Years back when I tuned my HW35 .. I used a broken 12 bore cleaning rod , with a reasonable grade of wire wool and metal polish ... so far back can't remember what polish. Chrome or something... I attached the rod to an electric drill and just went for it!! .. I remember my dad laughing at what I was doing whilst ramming it backwards and forwards as he walked into the garage 😂.. I said I'm honing the piston cylinder .. he raised an eyebrow and smiling .. left me to it ... well .. all I can say is I regularly took rabbits out at 60 yards and even beyond!! Now before you comment on you shouldn't shoot beyond 40 max.. with sub 12 ... I used to stalk and hunt wide open meadows adjacent to woods .. and most times 40 to 60 was as close you got , so rifle was zeroed for 40 yard . I'm talking way back when only gunsmiths had chronos .. I doubt my 35 was much more than 11.4 ftp but boy oh boy did it shoot smooth and accurate, yes honing tools can be made or thought out OK.
Very good idea to use the draught excluder, I've never thought about that before. Works like a cylinder glaze buster, I suppose using a drill on a slow speed and going up and down would work best.
Hi Geoff excellent vid I'm looking at polishing the comp tube on my tx200 would this method work and what grade paper would you recommend I start with and them finish with also would you recommend some sort of metal polish ? Many thanks in advance
Hi Philip. I'll be honest, I tend to aim for more of a honed or cross lapped surface inside compression tubes, to allow tiny surface scratches for holding the silicone lubricant. A finishing pass with abrasive around 600 grit is ideal.
Most suggest never use wet&dry on the inside of the cylinder, the reason being, make it to smooth and the grease off piston has nothing to hold on too, been told this many times , with respect, what is your take on this smooth.
Hi Buddy. The aim is a honed/clean cylinder, no intention to coarsely remove material with rough abrasive. Most of the wobble is from the bar, not the head.
No need for a hammer during the design phase 😂 And in the triggers I've seen for springers it's just the seers and the catch, no hammer in sight. Hamers are more often found in firearms and PCP / CO2 systems where the hammer hits on a valve stem for a short release of gas.