I really like the way you used the lathe to machine the flat surfaces! Never saw a technique like this before. I‘ll definitely give it a try next time I have to square up round stock like this!
This video was fantastic..! The way the lathe was being used, I've not seen others use it this way, at least not with clarity... Being a newbie, I learnt a lot ... Thanks
This is similar to the British Norman Pattern tool holder. Mostly seen on the Drummond Brothers lathes supplied to the armed forces circa 1914-18 and later. A well made one is more rigid than a cheap qctp. Well worth the effort of making a few , no dovetails and no tricky tolerances. Ideal for small lathes.
A mate made something similar to this a several years back. The only real difference was that he slotted the post sleeve and added a long conical spreader down the middle to make it work like an expanding mandrel. The idea was to make the holders as simple as possible because they were what he'd need to make lots of. The holders were just 3" blocks with a large off centre hole reamed through them, and the tool slot (+ threaded clamp bolt holes). Each tool was set to the right height with shims and left in the holder. They worked perfectly for a few years, but over time some of the reamed centre holes wore and got a bit loose. He ended up just replacing it all with a multifix toolpost. Your silted clamp design seems like it's not going to have any problems with this type of wear. Even if the post ended up wearing wildly undersized, it would only need the slits on the holders filing a bit wider to compensate.
Great video, I have been inspired to make one of these, thank you 👍. I am concerned the milling bit will move in the chuck, so I have drilled a 20mm square bar to take the bit with a grub screw and will hold that in the 4 jaw, f?fingers crossed it works OK!
Fly cutting using a 3 jaw chuck had me scared the tool would let go. Personally, I used a four jaw chuck with the material in the chuck and turned each face flat in turn as normal.
@@MurrayC I had never seen that done before... and honestly, it has opened up a whole new world of possibilities for me :D . I am by no means a professional machinist, but a hobbyist. Got a 1942 South Bend 9A from Military Surplus in great shape that I have been playing on.
I've never seen anyone make a flat edge using a lathe before. I was impressed. 👍 Also, I'm wondering - how much runout do you get on your 3 jaw chuck? It's a Bison, correct?
when you are more experienced you will mount the tool on the spindle,like reverse psychology.I have never done it but it is supper dangerous the cutting tip of the tool might break and fly and hurts and on using manually cutting .i wouldn't recommend.
If you machine another one make sure that there's no gap between the compound and the tool holder/post you made. You'll be surprised at how much things move and flex when under load. Avoid using 3 jaw chuck as a fly cutter endmill holder if possible.
Why? Just curious. I can't immediately think of how the loads on the chuck would be markedly different in this scenario compared to, say, a relatively heavy interrupted cut or a sustained cut with a form tool in ordinary turning.
@@johannesmajamaki2626 a three jaw chuck always has a little runout which makes it not good for endmills and when you hold a lathe tool in the jaws sideways you are clamping it on the sides of the jaws and not the front.
Aluminum threads last a long time if you keep them clean. I've been screwing things down to the aluminum bed of my mini-mill for years (1/2" thick, m5 holes). It was intended to be somewhat temporary just to get up and running, but it's performed so well, I'll just re-make it the same way again if it ever wears out.
How is this a quick change tool post? The main goal is to repeat the position of the tool, yours turns, and you have only one holder. Maybe quick hight adjust toolpost or shimless toolpost.
How often do you need to repeat any parameter other than squareness and the cutting tool being centered? This thing does just as good a job with those as any regular QCTP, save for bumping up against the chuck or aligning with the compound to get it square as needed. If you have a couple of these, you can also swap tools nearly equally quickly (and I'm fairly certain a design tweak could bring it up to par). Okay, this is not a QCTP in the traditional sense, but you appear to be overreacting that a bit, while ignoring the fact that this is infinitely more practical than shimming a four way block.