Link to my website: benchworks.be/en/diy/ Documenting the build of a staircase for my workshop, made out of 2by10 SLS wood (38x185mm) more here: www.benchworks.be/tipstricks.html
Love watching these...I live in Normandy and love to work in my wood shop as a hobby(J'ai une combination 6 function, etc,) but am not a professional...Great watching your organized way of working and modern machinery. rr
I've watched all of your videos and your level of precision and skill is truly admirable. That was a very well designed build and the fact that the stairs fit without trial and error is truly impressive. You're a master craftsman and I look forward to your future uploads.
Thank you, i do my best but it's not always as perfect as it looks. In this case the steps weren't supposed to fit as i wanted to plane them slightly to dimension. But i used the wrong copy ring on the router which made the mortise larger than it was supposed to be, i was incredibly lucky that the steps actually fitted in their initial dimension!
What type of pants are you wearing. We have Blaklader here in the U.S., but nothing that looks like that. Also, please post more woodworking videos. We all love them! Anything around Belgium would interest me too, since I hope to travel there as a tourist some day. Interesting country.
The pants i wear is Engelbert Strauss "ES Motion" a German brand, i think you can get them shipped to the US. Not as expensive as Blacklader, but the quality is excellent. They hold up incredibly long.
Very nice work. I feel I must offer some constructive criticism. It made all the muscles in my body tighten up when I saw you reach over the running blade on your table saw. Even with the blade guard over the blade one should never reach over the blade. That blade can cut through skin, flesh and bone faster than you can blink your eyes. Don't fool yourself by saying, "the blade guard will protect me." If you rely on passive equipment to keep you whole, sooner or later you will get a nasty surprise. No one can think of every possible way things can go wrong and design the machine so that it can never hurt us. Our only hope to keep our fingers where they belong is to be always vigilant and cultivate safe work practices. For instance, never ever reach over a running table saw blade.
Hi Tom, thanks for the concern. But the blade guard makes it technically safe to reach over it as there can be no direct contact with the blade from above. I can understand why that rule is important in NA where blade guards don't seem popular and even riving knives are a rare item. But here the only danger is laying your fingers flat on the table in line with the saw, something i never do.
Everything is square..nothing fantasy!!can only do it on the way of the template.Precious machines I will never have !never produce a price!!!good work angular template master
How did you calculate the angle the stairs needed to be, as you only had a certain amount of space for the stairs to fit into ? I would like to know as I am planning to build a set going up to the attic. Great video.
Good job Amigos! Your a real Carpenter! I see you got Hammer Machines. Can you recommened them? Specially the bandsaw and the jointer/planer.? My Dream is to have Hammer in next 10 years..... :)
Hello Anton, i do recommend Hammer, i am satisfied with the ones i have. When i started WW i couldn't afford Hammer, let alone Felder. So i know the feeling, hang on and one day you will have your dream machine!
Ok Timothy! Thanks. I have only study woodworking 1 year and rest i try to solve myself. We had Felder in school and they worked fine. Right now i struggle finding a good tablesaw, (Bosch or Makita). Hopefully i will buy a jointer/planer from hammer next year, 310 mm wide. :)
Excellent craftsmanship; thank you for sharing. My one question: Why did you choose to leave the two corners of the stair sticking above the upstairs floor? It seems they create a dangerous tripping hazard to folk walking by a huge hole in the floor. Thanks, again.
This is so that the top thread is still fully enclosed in a groove, as that thread mechanically hooks the stairs to the floor you want it solidly attached. Normally this type of stair would be between walls so there wouldn't be a tripping hazard, or in this case i planned on placing trim around the hole that sticks out just as much, and eventually a guard rail. But it's just a storage floor and i am the only one that works there.
I need to make stairs soon but very limited for run, so alternate tread space saver is my best option...my question is, how much run do you have there? Oh, and it is always a pleasure watching you work, thoroughly enjoy all your videos.
Such a lovely dog! The best friend at the workshop. PS. I used to have one too :) One thing; you could use a router to cut out mdf, instead of long process for the template. Very nice finish anyway!
I apologize if that comment came off as me being rude... I've just been in the game a long time an sometimes speak before I think. Good video, thanks for sharing.
Don't know why this video popped up on my feed but none the less I watched it... I chuckled to myself as soon as I seen the festool random orbital sander. Carpenters or master carpenters would never spend that kind of money on any tool that is going to receive daily use/abuse.... generally the sign of a weekend warrior that has more money then sense. On average I go through 2-3 random orbitals at about 139.95 per, which equates into roughly about the cost of 1 festool. Good job on the stairs for an amateur... I will say however, DEFINITELY take that scarf off an knock those pcs on the top off as they create quite the hazard. Falling down those stairs would not be fun!!
I drew out the situation in sketchup, with the height and horizontal length you want you instantly know the angle. Then there is a formula to calculate the amount of steps (ideally there is a step about every 18cm in height) but in this situation with a very steep stair it is more comfortable to have less steps, here i have one about every 24cm.
The Hammer F3 is actually a very good semi-pro machine, the only gripes i have are that the knobs at the back of the fence are not very ergonomically placed. And the factory settings with all my Hammer/Felder machines were not precise enough. With this one the fences were not in line and the angle stop for the axle was not set precisely on 0 degrees. But once set right it is a joy to use, i find it easy to precisely machine parts on it. Also the cross cut arm that you can mount on the slider is very well designed.
Timothy Wilmots I take it you didn't take up the commissioning when you bought the Felder/Hammer machines. Normally well when I bought mine they automatically added commissioning with the price you could ask to remove it to save some money. I decided to keep it. The machines don't come perfectly set up well mine didn't. Couple days later after my machines were delivered they sent a guy to commission the machines he checked everything and calibrated everything and made sure I had everything. I had a few things missing and the table saw got damaged in transport so he ordered new parts and ordered the missing parts and came back to finish off. I personally think this should be part of the price and not an extra but thats how it is.
jmb69er In my case the machines were assembled and prepared at the dealer, and then delivered here. Someone came by a few days later but mostly to explain the functions and use. I wasn't charged for commissioning, but they did send a tech guy without charge to properly align my panel saw 6 months after delivery. On the Felder shaper and jointer/planer i didn't have to tweak anything, not even the jointing fence. Everything came dead on. The panel saw was off by a hair over the length of the slider, but i noticed :p
lauri A normal angle would have taken too much space so i made it very steep at 52 degrees, and reduced the amount of steps to one every 21cm approx. The steeper it is, the less steps you need. Otherwise it's not practical to use.
Timothy Wilmots Thank you for your fast respond! I also need to make it steep, so I have been wondering how steep I can make it and it would still be usable. I'll try to calculate and make my stairs by these numbers :)
The furniture that i sell pays for it, this used to be a pig/cow stable until 8 years ago, so it has been a long way to get to this point, and it's a long way to get where i want it to be!
It takes time getting used to the differences, but i am starting to appreciate it more and more. The settings weren't all spot on so i had to spend a few hours doing adjustments. i also changed my jointer planer and DC for felders.
The Felder bansaw with power feed looks sweet too, I'm saving for the combination machine, the one I want with power drive etc is pretty deer tho!Did you get the dado blade for the table saw? And I'm probley going to kick myself what's a DC?
You aren't allowed to glue the threads, they have to be able to "work" freely, otherwise they tend to split open. I used screws but technically only nails are allowed as they allow more movement.
It's all in the same space, but i keep woodworking separate from metalworking and other more dirty activities. In this building we also store our farming equipment.
Excellent travail. Ta nouvelle Felder semble vraiment agréable à utiliser. Bonne idée d'avoir fait une mezzanine mais pourquoi? Ton hangar est déjà très spacieux. Tout paraît plus avec les "jigs".
Je l'ai surtout fait parce que je voulais mettre l'aspirateur au dessus pour gagner de l'espace et avoir plus de rangement, et je sais mieux éclairer les machines en dessous. Le gabarit prend du temps à faire, mais une fois terminé fraiser les marches devient très facile et précis.
