Tool Post Drill: • Tool Post Drill - Easy... Gear Indexer: • Simple Indexing on a M... Chuck (same chuck on Amazon, Vevor is out of stock): amzn.to/3VjJYD0
16:20, I saw that quick tighten on the tool post, I am guilty of the same thing from time to time..... I noticed the tool vibration and a split second later, you caught it.....Bravo.
I'm old, and trying to learn/ understand lathe metal working. So, 'made' many things for my 70 year old lathe. As ability increased, 'remade' many of them. Inadvertently bought chuck with bigger hole, so watched this with pleasure . Going to make the same backing plate soon, so, thanks for this.
Winky thanks for another invite into your shop. They're always appreciated and enjoyable. A couple of things though.. I'm one of those in 'Camp Shoulder' when it comes to its importance. The tenants of that camp dictate that the back plate should be bored for a precision fit to insure repeatability when mounting the chuck to the spindle. Unless I'm missing something boring it for precision fit can be done subsequent to threading. to facilitate test fitting. My other observation was the nifty indexer you made. I'm going to make one too. For those without one "Transfer Screws" come in very handy for accurately center punching those holes. They're sold but nn a pinch they're easy enough to make in a relatively short time. . Thanks again. Wakodahatchee Chris
I always aim for a good fit but I think the treads are self centering. This chuck was about .003 over but I'm usually about .001 over. Scott Logan said the same about a thread mount. That doesn't make him right but I do respect his opinion. I've had problems with the transfer screws but I suspect it was my drill press quill. I've since adjusted the quill but its not perfect.
You could correct the runout of the chuck body by taking a few thou off the register on the backplate, re-assemble the chuck, and snug the bolts but not torqued. Test the runout and soft hammer the chuck body in the direction needed. You'll be able to nullify any runout to the limits of your patients. Tighten the bolts and check again. Then, test the runout in the jaws.I'm not sure if they're numbered, but they should be, so they go back in their respective slots. Try different combinations to establish where they were ground in at the factory. Once you establish the best combination, mark the body and jaws appropriately.
I was going to do as you suggested but after looking at the runout a little closer I realized the jaws were an issue. When clamping inward the runout high side lined up with number 3 jaw and when clamping outward it was 2. The the other jaws (external) were similar but the high jaw was a different number. Basically I didn't want to have to adjust the chuck every time I changed jaws so I ground (actually cut) the jaws level.
I was thinking about turning down the register a little and moving the chuck body off center. Another comment suggested removing the plastic chip guard over the scroll and inserting back plate into the chuck more. If I do this I might have room to install set screws to adjust to center
Cool project! When I made a backing plate for my 12" chuck, I used transfer screws in the chuck to mark the backing plate. I really like your lathe indexing setup. 🙂
Nice job! That plastic cover on the back I presume is just to keep the chips out. As the new backplate will do that for you, I think I'd have taken it out prior to boring out the middle and left it out. You could have made the backplate register a bit deeper then to get the chuck a hair closer to reduce the overhang.
Pardon me for being philosophical here. Re: People saying you can't bore that out. Imagine for a brief moment the nay sayers always having their way. Innovation gets rigidly restricted to established paradigms. And what if this applied for the past 1000 years? What would the world be like today? Safe to say we wouldn't have cars. Or, or, or ........... Anyway, nice work, Even if you have compromised the integrity of that chuck which was undoubtedly made to the very highest ASME standards that the jobber shops of China rigidly adhere to. (I better check my coffee for sarcasm additives)
Ha... I agree 100%. I've always pushed the limits within reason. I worked for a printing company most my life and there were some people that would rather live with a poorly running machine than to try making it better. The logic was that it was running and you might make it worse while attempting to fix it. As time passed we got updated machines that were much easier to run but the people that were afraid of change stayed on the old machine eagerly working the ass off to avoid change. The last 15 years before retiring I was doing an engineering job (without a degree) designing machine modifications in problem areas. It was a lot of headaches but also fun.
If you take a centre distance hole measurement and divide by 0.86603 it gives you the pcd of the bolt hole circle. Hope that helps. Love your videos and greetings from Australia.
@@kevinsmith1976 The center distance is the part that make this difficult. I've made threaded bolts with a point or used a transfer bolt in the past to do this so its doable, just adds a step.
Another interesting and useful project. The first job I had as an apprentice was fitting a backing plate to a chuck. If that four jaw was mine I’d figure out how to brace the jaws and hard bore them true. Shouldn’t be too difficult with a large carbide boring bar
Thanks, yeah I might fix the jaws, I've done that before. However, I need to mark the low jaw and see if its consistent at several diameters before I do that.
13:00, is your compound running in the wrong direction, I have cut interior threads like this, but I think you are supposed to have compound feed handle on the side of the chuck, please correct me if I am wrong.....I am commenting while watching, so have not watched the whole video yet..... cheers, Paul
You are absolutely correct. I just messed up. I actually run it to the back side sometimes but the way I did it was wrong. The threads are pulling the carriage. It's amazing but it worked well. I guess the carriage has enough weight or resistance. Good catch!
Wow... Good catch, you are right. I just screwed up. Surprisingly it always works but there is a potencial for screwed up threads. The threads are trying to pull the carriage.
That turned out nice. I’ve had a couple of attempts at making a collet check. First one was fine, but the second one. Well, I couldn’t decide whether the thread was tight or the index was a thou too small and ended up trashing it! 😏 Regards Robert
Winky, a Chuck Backplate should be cast iron. It is not a good idea to have steel on steel with the lathe spindle, it can gall up. I do not know of any chuck manufacturer that used steel back plates. Take care using it and add a small amount of lubrication on the spindle thread when screwing it on to be sure you can get it off again. Regards from Australia.
Hello Dave, well in this case I'm going to have to disagree. All my chuck have steel back plate and have had for about 10 years. I've never had a single problem. Bison sells thread mount high strength steel plate as well. Steel is much stronger than cast and performs much better on a smaller threaded spindle. I've had threads break on cast back plates. Probably low quality plates but never the less, steel will never break.
@@normesmonde5332 Generally speaking Dave has some good advice and others have said the same about cast. Cast generally has a vibration absorbing quality and in some cases it might be a better choice. However, to me, this means the cast iron has to be compressible. Years ago I had a Shars 6 inch chuck and cast back plate on my Logan and it chattered bad. I put a 3 foot x 1.5" bar in the chuck and pushed down on the bar. The chuck actually moved away from the spindle register. I replaced both with steel back plates and the chatter got substantially better and the bar test was also much better. Both a 4 jaw and 3 jaw Shars 6" backing plate failed at the threads so this may be a quality issue more than cast vs steel ALTHOUGH Bison chucks confirmed that their steel back plate were stronger. One Shars plate failed at 7 month and the other at 1 yr. Shars would NOT stand behind them and I don't hesitate to throw them under the bus. I do not buy from Shars!
@@WinkysWorkshop It is my understanding that the backing plate should be of cast iron because when mounting and dismounting the chuck if anything should wear it would be the cast iron and not the spindle. Keep both well oiled with quality oil. Aaron from Canada
@@aarondean8299 yeah... I can see where a tight thread might be an issue but I'm not worried about wear at all. There is usually oil on the threads and I always make sure they are fairly clean. I really don't think there is a huge difference anyway. The spindle threads are hardened steel I'm sure.
daveticehurst4191: Very true in general practice but there’s always exceptions. A hulk of cast iron that size would be ridiculously expensive and messy to machine. With custom projects you use what you have and make it work.
I like it too! LoL 😂😆 If you want that chuck to run truer, you can machine the jaws in an out but stable condition. Search grinding lathe jaws or truing lathe jaws.
