I loved that you show every step as detailed on the CAD model. I watch a lot of these types of videos and I never expected it to clarify things as much as it did. Keep including it if you can please :)
I'm glad to hear that, i've been looking at this type of stuff all day every day for the last 15 years, so sometimes i forget that most don't have that frame of reference. it will be a common aspect of every video going forward!
I'd love to see an I6 too but given that he's using these for RC planes where weight is a premium, I suspect he will more likely opt for a V6 or boxer 6.
Love the videos, excellent workmanship. You make it look so easy, but can't help thinking, all the time I am watching, about all the calculations, preparation and set up involved. Very impressive, thanks for sharing
Amazed AGAIN!! Not sure what size those tiny drill bits are that you are using, but I wonder if viewers realize just how small they are! Thanks again for producing these vids, and quickly becoming one of the top mini machining channels on RU-vid!
Thanks for watching! Is it bad that i consider this to be pretty big? the smallest drill in this one is .046" (1.1mm), that's just a bit bigger than the thickness of a credit card.
your filing plugs: if you would have left an on-center post on the outside of each you could have set those posts on the top of your milling vice jaws. Then touched off on a shim on the mandrel major diameter and used the milling machine to do the whole radius. just lock Z, loosen vise and turn a few degrees mill again, repeat, repeat...
I just set the edge of the plugs on some parallels, they're thin enough to not touch the part. i didn't show it in the video, but you can sort of see the facets in the shot just before filing.
It looks like you're using oil as cutting fluid. WD40 is a nice lube for cutting aluminium with HSS. A 5 litre bottle with some decanted in to a spray bottle makes it so easy to spray while cutting
Olá. Logo no início do vídeo com apenas 01:30 , fui obrigado a parar para escrever essa mensagem parabenizando você. Excelente projeto e tenho certeza que a execução também. Voltando ao vídeo. Saudações rurais do Brazil, Pedro - Holambra -SP
Great work, great video, and good voiceover. It immediately made me think of Wristwatch Revival and his videos are doing great. If I could have one wish here would be to see a making of working scale model of V10 or V12.
@@JellyFishMachine I'd love to see that! Both of your machines are the smaller Sherline variants (Mill/lathe) right? I Was looking at buying sherlines here soon as well for stuff like this. Can you recommend size/packages from sherline for this size of work? Ever since I found your weaver build series I've wanted to try making one myself!
Yes i have the smaller lathe and the 12" mill model 5400, don't bother with the 10" 5000 mill, the 12" is only around $80 more and the extra y axis travel is well worth it. what i don't suggest is getting extended x axis or z axis, the machine really doesn't have much rigidity to spare and the standard x and z is plenty for sherline size work. I would also avoid the 8-direction or nextgen machines, all of the extra adjustments make the machine difficult to align properly and also very easy to knock out of alignment, for only a limited improvement in versatility and significant reduction in rigidity that makes it in my opinion not worth the hassle or expense. for the lathe, i haven't used one of the long bed versions, again my main concern is one of rigidity, the bed of the machine is unsupported across its span and it's likely fine for most work but i went for the smaller machine mostly for rigidity sake, i push my machines pretty hard (i have lots of professional machining experience). also keep in mind if you are working primarily on very small work like the steam engine i just built, (which is where the sherlines shine) the long bed machine places the z-axis handwheel well out of sight and reach making it a little more difficult to work with. My suggestion is the 4500 8" lathe with zero adjustable handwheels (very important to get the zero adjustable handwheels, working without them is a nightmare) www.sherline.com/product/4500c4530c-lathe-with-adjustable-zero-handwheels-package/#description and the 5400 12" mill with DRO. the DRO isn't so critical on the lathe but is IMO mandatory on the mill, it makes life drastically easier not having to count handwheels and backlash in 3 axis. www.sherline.com/product/5400a-dro5410a-dro-deluxe-mill-package/#description if you can, get them in packages, you save a lot on all of the accesories that you will end up buying anyway down the line, if you can swing it then it makes lots of sense. www.sherline.com/product/6000-dro/#description the only issue there is the long bed lathe, you might be able to call them and get a package made with the short bed lathe. keep in mind that the sherline machines are very small, and the weaver is (IMO) near the upper size limit of what is realistically possible with this class of machine. people have done larger work, but it's always a stretch do do large work on small machines. I actually have a larger grizzly mill, and that's the one i am using in this video. this crankcase can be made on the sherline, I made my first weaver on the sherline mill, but especially boring the cylinder holes is a stretch on the mill, it really is lacking in rigidity. for smaller work, like the 0.1cc "Nano" engine or the steam engine i built, the sherline machines are unbeatable for the price. an Aciera F1 would be nice but also 10X the price lol If you have any more question don't hesitate to ask.
@@JellyFishMachine Thanks for the incredibly detailed response! I'm currently looking at getting the 8" lathe C package with adjustable handwheels and 4 jaw independent 3.1". Thread cutting is a must, I also am debating getting the vertical milling column attachment for the lathe. I can't afford a mill in addition to the lathe I figure it should be good enough to get most of the work I want to do done and be a nice introduction to milling until I can purchase a dedicated mill (which will likely be a benchtop one from PM or Grizzly so I have larger options). The goal is small model engines such as the weaver, but I had plans of doing other projects in a similar size range, maybe some a tad bigger. I've always had a fascination with engines, and used to make pneumatic ones in Lego so being able to make small fuel engines is an absolute dream! I do have a 7x12 Grizzly lathe that I am having a hard time getting tuned. If you have any advice for it I would love to hear, it's one of the cheap Asian import lathes. It chatters on 5 thou DOC on aluminum and brass on any speed I've thrown at it, unless it's at a snails pace. The toolpost and compound deflect a *ridiculous* amount, I think I measured it roughly to 30 thou in one particular bad case. Another issue is the compound slide is basically unusable. The dial on the handwheel sticks to the frame and messes up the reading, and there's no real way to fix it with my tooling, so I just keep the gibs on it tightened down as much as I can. If it wasn't for the deflection and imprecision, and a few other minor issues I'd need to fix, I'd just spend the money on a benchtop mill instead. At this point though I'm about fed up having to work on it, and am looking at selling with all of the additional tooling I've gotten for it over the years. In the end I've never been able to get anything remotely precise off of that lathe. I don't have a functioning compound, whereas the sherline doesn't *need* a compound because of the headstock. The precision and expandability for their tools? The entire thing is kind of a big ol' lego kit. Plug and play for a lot of there additions and attachments, it's light and portable and I love the concept of it. Even if the work is small, I can just adapt my ideas to be miniature! hah. Plus a lot of the tooling seems to be far cheaper than for most more regular benchtop mills, and most of all, the stock will be significantly cheaper for much smaller work.
I have a barely used OS FS 4 stroke engine a friend of mine is working to replicate through lost wax casting and then machining .Have you considered that process for any projects?
The front section and main bearing are bored in the same setting and the face turned as well, the rear housing location doesn't need to be exact, there's about .020" clearance around the crankshaft so i just flipped it around and bored it. I put a big spot on each side in the milling machine to have something to dial into the 4-jaw. Thanks for watching!
I'd recommend the Titan .60. There is a complete written build article, and a complete video series on building the engine on RU-vid. It does require machines just a bit bigger than Sherlines, though. Just search Titan .60.
The boll aero 1.8 is a good one to start with, all of the parts are quite simple and the size is easy to work with. Plans - www.modelenginenews.org/plans/BollAero18.pdf Writeup - www.modelenginenews.org/bollaero/index.html And if you can built that then the weaver is well within reason Plans - www.adriansmodelaeroengines.com/catalog/main.php?cat_id=213 Writeup - www.modelenginenews.org/weaver/index.html Check out the late and great Ron Chernich's website for lots of awesome info on building these types of engines: www.modelenginenews.org/ In particular the section on making: www.modelenginenews.org/techniques/index.html And Cylinder Lapping: www.modelenginenews.org/techniques/cylhone.html I wouldn't reccomend the titan .60 to start with as the castings are hard to find (or time consuming to make) and would really hurt to make a mistake on, on the other hand a mistake on a barstock engine part might result in some colorful language and a few extra hours to make another, but barstock is much easier to get than castings!
