Making custom tweeter pods // Mercedes C63s AMG 

Thanks David! More coming soon 🤞🏻

Thanks I really appreciate the feedback and thanks for watching! I’m blown away by the response from this video. It’s certainly given me some motivation to create some similar content for people as it seems to have been well received. Thanks again for watching and thanks for subscribing too!

Thanks Clint! Glad you enjoyed it :)

Thanks man, appreciate you taking the time to watch and glad you enjoyed it!

Nicky Bundy's channel led me here in May 2024. High quality output.

Thanks! Really appreciate that and I’m glad you’ve enjoyed them!

Thanks man. When you've finished them please DM me a photo, would love to see your finished project!

RTA Car Audio I'm also into 3D printing, I will send you pictures as soon as I've finished the install. Thanks

Thanks Craig!

Thanks Lorcan, I appreciate you taking the time to watch 😄

Thanks William! Glad you enjoyed watching!

Thanks Joseph, I appreciate you taking the time to watch it!

Thanks man glad you enjoyed it!

Thank man!

Thanks man appreciate it! :)

Haha thank you Gusa! I'm glad you enjoyed them and thanks for watching through them, I appreciate it!

Thanks man 👍

Thanks David and thanks for watching man 👍🏻

@@RTAFabrication more than welcome! I am currently going through all your videos... strangely therapeutic and very inspirational 👌🏻

Thanks Graham!

I'll be getting back to your email shortly too, haven't forgotten about it, just been mega busy! Thanks for being patient

@@RTAFabrication That tweeter mounting might be an option for the SL

Thanks for watching! What type of models do you work with? Oh don’t worry, my workflow can be chaotic at times too! 😅

@@RTAFabrication Models was an oversimplification. I'm normally into woodworking, but what I was referring to is currently I'm modifying a computer peripheral called an Azeron Game Pad. I'm adding RGB lighting to it as well as smoothing out all the 3d printed parts and painting it. I'm also planning a scratch build of a computer case. But the main goal is to do theses things in a way that they look OEM. That is why your content is so appealing to me. You really do some incredible things and make it look like it came that way from the (high end) factory.

please 😇

Thanks Gene! No I use Apollo-X from Formfutra which is ASA. If you take a look at the description you'll see why I use it, it's perfect for automotive parts.

Thanks Lutfur! Surface finish is definitely a weird obsession of mine!

@@RTAFabrication I’ve recently started 3D printing. Do you have any recommendations for fillers, primers, clear coat etc to replicate your surface finish?

@@lutfur.r Yeah sure. I usually print with a material called ASA, specifically ApolloX from FormFutura. In short, it’s easy to print with like PLA, but has the benefits of ABS without the smell and other difficulties. I’d usually flat the part back with 120 grit to minimise the visible layers then I’d use a filler called Dolphin Glaze from U-POL. It’s a glazing/ finishing filler that is for finishing surfaces/ applying over a more structural filler to fill pin holes. It also self levels to a certain extent. You don’t want to be building this up any thicker than 3mm. If you have any areas that do require a lot of filler then I use a product called F222 Bumpersoft from HB Body. U-POL do a version a called PlastX6 but I much prefer the HB Body version as it’s a but wetter and easier to work with. I specially use this filler for any plastic parts. It’s a filler designed for plastics as it’s got a slight flex to it, so in vehicle interiors for example it won’t crack when the plastics expand or contract with the varying temperatures in a vehicle. You can look into the acetone method for smoothing out the layers, but this method suits me better as I’ve always worked with body fillers on other areas of the work I do. For paints I just use a primer specifically for plastics and a 1k matt black aerosol which is acrylic based. I apply a ‘wet’ coat of the matt black over the primer, then I’ll fog or mist on a few layers after, close enough so it isn’t just overspray that can be wiped off, but not too close that it looks patchy with wetter areas as you’ll see them when it dries. A few layers of this builds up a very fine grain which looks better in my opinion and also gives the part a really nice consistent finish. I have been asked about the finishes and materials I use quite a lot, so I’ll potentially do an entire video dedicated to that process at some point. Hopefully that’s some help to you!

@@RTAFabrication My word you are a godsend! This level of detail is extremely useful and has saved me so much time researching, thank you.

No worries! I’ve been there myself, it’s hard to find the information you in need sometimes so I’m happy to share my methods. I’m sure you’ll adapt and pick up other things that work for you too along the way!

Haha thank you Jabu! I appreciate you thanking the time to watch and I’m glad you like my work! 👊🏻

Thanks Andrea! Yeah without watching it back myself I feel like I might have skipped over that part. I use a matt black aerosol from my body shop supplier. It’s still a 1k paint but seems to be abit more durable than regular 1k aerosols. my technique is to do what I call a ‘wet’ coat, which would be full coverage as you’d normally do. Then I’d do a ‘dry’ or ‘fog’ coat, where I’ll fog or mist a few layers on. It’s a balance between making sure it doesn’t go on wet, but also doesn’t end up being overspray that can be wiped straight off. Once you find that balance you’ll get a very fine grain built up on the surface which doesn’t wipe off like overspray would. The key is ensuring it doesn’t go on wet because if it does it’ll start to look patchy. Building up this fine grain leaves a really consistent surface finish that doesn’t look plasticy like a regular wet coat would. I use this method for every single part I make which is Matt black. I also use this on the master parts I make that I take a mould from, as the silicone mould will copy any detail or surface, so the silicone takes an impression of that and it becomes the surface finish of the cast part. Cleaning is usually fine, of course any type of rubbing on a surface will technically start buffing it, but I have parts I’ve made years ago in my own car and they still hold that same finish. You could argue that the grain has diminished slightly, but the finish still looks consistent and definitely doesn’t resemble a part that a revalue wet coat has been applied to. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!

@@RTAFabrication thank you very much for the very insightful reply! I actually had this "patches" issue when overlaying, i need to try your technique! I saw the video of the VW cockpit and it looked very helpful for the painting part. By the way an amazing result also there! When you say 1K spray do you mean like a Nitro base synthetic or some so called "epoxy" paint (also one component) or something similar? Thanks again and congrats for the skills and dedication!

@@RTAFabrication How about dedicate a video to that technique. The paint looks really amazing.

Thanks man! It's body filler, but it's a plastic specific filler that is slightly flexible. Your run-of-the-mill polyester body fillers have no movement in them when set, so during heat cycles in the car and/or the door shutting the filler could potentially crack and leave you with a joint where it meets the plastic. I always use this filler for anything custom work that's living inside of the vehicle. As the plastic (in this case the tweeter housing) goes through heat cycles in the car it will expand and contract. As a regular body filler is rigid there's no leeway, but with this filler being slightly flexible it reduces those chances. I'll leave another comment with the name of this filler for you, but the other version I used to use is U-POL PlastX 6, the one I currently use is very similar but is slightly wetter and easier to work with. I had been thinking about doing a video on fillers and adhesives, pros and cons, and what's best for particular applications etc.

@@RTAFabrication Hey mate! Still waiting for "the comment you will leave" about the the filler. And more importantly the video you're planning to shot about! Any plan soon???

I completely forgot to comment back! It's HB Body Pro F222 Bumpersoft. I am planning it very soon, I'm just deciding the best example piece to work on and if to strictly focus on fillers or go broader with adhesives, joints, sanding etc.

@@RTAFabrication Thanks mate. For the video, I'd of run over two different objects; a complex geometry like the tweeter housing and a simple one with flat surfaces to show benefits of different materials. If you are planning a comprehensive series just split into episodes but be sure we gonna be watching whatever comes. Cheers.

Thanks for watching Dennis! Yeah I always give it some thought when doing these type of jobs whether to mould the custom parts I make. For the cost of the materials to do it, it’s actually probably worth doing, although parts like this are very specific so it’s weighing up whether it is actually worth it as it’s more unlikely that they’d be a big seller. Although… if one more vehicle did come up that required the same part it would make the job a lot easier, quicker and cheaper for the customer. I don’t think there’s a right or wrong answer, I think it’s part dependant really. Thanks again for watching!

Thanks Jay 👊🏻 I’m using Fusion 360 for modelling 👍🏻

RTA Car Audio thank you for responding top man

No worries man 🤘🏻

Thanks Ashley appreciate it! Which printer have you decided on? I would definitely recommend Fusion 360 for modelling, it’s one of the easier softwares to use and you get access to 99% of features with the free personal use license 👍🏻

@@RTAFabrication I bought an Ender 3 as It will only be getting used here and there mainly for making custom parts mainly for 1995 Toyota starlet GT turbo and my daily swift sport. Do you have any tips for a new starter with 3d print. My first project is tweeter pods :-)

The Ender 3 is a solid machine, easily and cheaply upgradable too! In regards to printing, if you have a glass bed, I’d get yourself some Elmers purple glue sticks, they work great for better adhesion (Amazon has good deals on this). On my CR-10 S4 I’ve used the blue masking tape methods and hairspray and the glue has been noticeably better. On my Wanhao I3 plus I use the magnetic build platform (without glue or anything) which I do prefer over glass beds, as removal of prints is extremely easy. I’m not sure which type the Ender 3 ships with nowadays, as I’ve seen both options available. For filament, if you’re doing automotive prints, definitely stay away from PLA, it can warp and shirk with the heat inside of a vehicle as it has a low glass transition temperature. Because of this it’s also a nightmare to sand as the heat created by friction just causes it to get soft. ABS is ideal, but smells bad, very toxic and is a pain to work with, so I avoid this and use a filament from FormFutura called Apollo-X, I won’t list all the benefits, but if you check their site and read the details you’ll see why it’s my go-to choice, and it’s also very easy to work with. I’d spend some time in Fusion 360 getting to grips with the software, test print and just have fun with it, if you’re brand new to 3D printing there will be some tweaking of your machine and settings, which you’re probably already aware of if you’ve been looking at printers online, but once you’ve got that dialled in you’ll rarely have failed prints. The one other software you’ll need is you slicing software. There are a lot of options but currently I use Cura. I am fairly sure there are better slicers around now, but it’s one of those things that I’ve used for that long and haven’t felt the need to change, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it type situations. A quick google search will probably put you on to the software of choice at the moment. There’s plenty of documentation online for troubleshooting so you won’t be short of resources. Just for you as a reference, on this project I will have used… Apollo-x filament Nozzle size on my Wanhao is 0.2mm Extruder at 210 degrees Bed at 70 degrees Print speed either 40mm/s or 60mm/s Layer height 0.12mm Infill 80% (from memory) Those settings are my default and rarely change, but I do change wall thicknesses, how many top and bottom solid layers etc depending on what I’m printing. Just double check on the Ender 3 specs what the maximum heat of your extruder is against the requirements of the Apollo-x if you do use that filament, just to make sure it can go to those higher temperatures. If you do need to upgrade it to handle higher temperatures, check out the Mirco Swiss all metal hotend (specifically for the Ender 3), I use one on my Wanhao and it’s great. Hopefully that’s some help to you! 🙂

@@RTAFabrication so far I've bought a glass bed, uprated bed springs, all metal extruder and also printed some uprated parts that were already on Thingyverse. I really appreciate you time and tips. ill have a look at the Apollo x filament, fusion 360 has just finished downloading. I've got the Elmers glue and have been printing some random bits for my bros Silvia which so far so good. I've been using Tinkercad and Cura so far good. now to learn fusion 360. Thankyou once again for all your help.

Ah that’s great, sounds like you’re well on your way already and no worries at all! Fusion’s probably the most intuitive software compared to solidworks, sketchup etc, well I found it to be anyways. Best way I describe it to people is it’s got a particular logic to the controls and how it wants to do certain things, but once you’ve sussed that you’ll be unstoppable haha 🙂

Thanks! Just a regular Matt black aerosol but it’s the technique that gets the finish. I start with a ‘wet’ coat as a base, then once that’s dry I mist about 3-4 layers on. The key with this is consistent coverage, not too close so it goes wet, but not too far away that it’s just overspray that sits on the surface and will wipe off. It’s a fine balance and a gradual build up, moving the can quick with board strokes to evenly. I like to rotate the part 4 time times attacking it from all angles. I’m planning to do a few videos on fillers, sanding, painting and general techniques so I’ll cover this properly at some point because I do get asked about this a lot!

@@RTAFabrication Thankyou. Any chance you could do the spraying video soon as I need to start making my speaker pods and would love to achieve a similar finish :)

Thanks for watching! If I remember correctly I took a front and rear hi level signal directly from the stereo using a specific loom from Audison which is designed to work with the Prima amplifier. For reference, the part number for this loom is AP T-H MBP01. This is basically a T harness which allows me to take the output of the stereo directly to the amplifiers input without cutting or splicing into the factory cables. The Audison Prima amplifier allows for a hi level input and as it has a DSP built in, I was also able to de-equalise the signal giving me a completely linear signal to work with. If you have Logic 7 in you BMW then you will have an optical connection on the amplifier. If you don’t know already, this is called MOST and is a communication system throughout the vehicle. Your audio signal is also sent from the stereo to the amplifier via MOST. If this loop is broken anywhere, for example, removing the amplifier, then other systems in the car will not work. When I’ve carried out upgrades on vehicles with MOST, and specially Logic 7 systems, I will use a product called an Audison Bit DMI. This device takes place of the factory amplifier in the MOST loop and can essentially extract the optical audio signal and output it via a Toslink connection. If you used an Audison Prima amplifier as well, you can send the signal from the Bit DMI into the Prima amplifiers Toslink optical input. This is something I would take advantage of as you will have a full digital system from your stereo, all the way to the digital to analog conversion at the amplifiers output. If a customer doesn’t want the DMI or it’s not within budget, then I would usually install the Audison Prima amplifier after the OEM amplifier. I would take the output signals from the OEM amplifier and use those as my inputs to the Prima amplifier. As the Prima amplifier has a DSP built in, I’m able to control the input sensitivity as well as de-equalise the signal to ensure that in the DSP I’m working with a linear signal. I hope that information has been helpful to you and thanks again for watching!

Thanks man! I had the same thoughts when making it about the stability and wondered if I’d have to attach it with a machine screw through the underside. That’s not something I’d have liked to have done, I very much dislike defacing OEM panels, especially something like that. Fortunately I didn’t have to take that route. The sort of C shaped lip I created nested over the back edge of the door card tightly with an interference fit. The thickness of that also filled the slight gap between the back of the C shaped part and the door itself, so when the door card was reinstalled it was even more sturdy. Then taking the impression of the rubber part behind the housing ensured there was zero play so it couldn’t tilt or wobble. A combination of all of those aspects made it very solid without the need for any mechanical fixing. As I said, I had foreseen the same potential issues as yourself but when the door was slammed it didn’t move at all.

Thanks Michael! I use a Matt black aerosol from Monofil. I lay a wet full coat down over the primer, then after I’ll ‘fog’ a few coats of Matt black to build up a very slight texture which creates a nice uniform finish. The key that I’ve found with the fog layers is to be at the perfect distance, too close and it can look patchy and too far it’ll just be overspray that will wipe off.

Thanks for watching Andi! Yeah the ‘algorithm’ is a strange beast isn’t it. Although I’d imagine my inconsistency with uploads plays a part in it 😅 Thanks again for watching man!

Thanks! The black/ brown filler I used (I can’t remember which one I used in this video without checking) but I used to use a Upol Plast X 6 which is a flexible polyester filler specifically designed for plastic. I now use an equivalent product from HB Body called BumperSoft F222. The HB Body version has more resin in the mixture compared to the Upol version which can be quite dry and airy. The F222 lays down a lot nicer and is easier to work with. It’s particularly useful for interior trim fabrication and filling over joints between two plastic parts. With the varying temperatures in a vehicle interior, plastic parts will naturally expand and contract. As this filler is slightly flexible it will also expand and contract with the plastic parts. With this you have much less risk of the filler cracking at a joint compared to using a regular polyester filler that doesn’t have these characteristic and is rigid. The lighter green filler in the sort of tube is Upol dolphin glaze. This is a finishing filler that’s low viscosity that I use over the top of the other filler. It’s designed for filling pinholes and is to be applied as a thin layer (no more than 3mm thickness ideally). I use the other filler to build up the bulk of the shape, then use the dolphin glaze to get the final shape as it sort of self levels and is a lot easier to sand. I’ve used this combination for years and it’s the only two I use. Hope that helps!

Thanks! It's a wanhao i3 plus. The extruder is upgraded to E3D (can't remember which one) and it's got igus bearings with a couple of other upgrades.

Correction, it actually has the Microswiss all metal hot end, my mistake!

Thanks for watching! If I'm being completely honest I haven't had any first-hand experience with either brand. I've been a fan of Audison/Hertz for years, even before I started the business so naturally, I was drawn to them. The products are solid and the range offers everything that I need to build SQ systems so I've never really given myself the opportunity to try anything else. Now you've mentioned them I am curious to look into their ranges deeper to see what they offer 👍

@@RTAFabrication According to what I have read on the net and heard stuff about them steg & blam they are pure SQ stuff and on the other hand I have heard about audison and hertz but not done deep dive research about the same so now I'm intrigued do the same!

I've been fortunate enough to have both brands in my install. Audison Voce and Steg SG range, overall the Stegs sound better SQ wise. That Being said their marketing is absolutely terrible and the lack of info is not doing them any favours. BTW great video and content 👌

Thanks man! Typically I use an 80% infill, so that's likely what I used here. The filler is called Bumpersoft 222 by HB Body, I swear by this filler for any interior plastic applications as it's slightly flexible, so there's a huge reduction in the chance of cracking with the temperature changes inside a vehicle. Obviously in this case that isn't an issue as it was used on the back-side, but I will always use this on the 'A' face of any parts over joints. An alternative that I used to use is U-pol PlastX 6, same concept but slight differences, I found the HB Body slighter easier to work with as it's slightly wetter than the U-pol version, and I feel it sands slighter easier too. Would a video covering the fillers I use, characteristics and reasons why I choose them be helpful to you at all? Thanks again for watching!

Thanks much for the reply to this (Just realized I missed this comment over a month now. Just replayed this video as I enjoy watching your content, you style of videography, explanation and attention to detail.). Your content is much appreciated. I'm viewing all the way from Trinidad and Tobago 🇹🇹. And to your question about fillers: If you don't mind, it will be quite informative. I'm very particular with the heating effects of plastic in my country (generally hot), therefore this topic of filler, I'm concerned with when I'm trying to do my sails.

It’s ok, I’ve only just spotted your reply! Yeah I’ve started planning out some informative videos covering fillers, sanding, painting and techniques in general so keep an eye out for those! Definitely will be doing a filler video as I get asked about fillers quite often. The Bumpersoft 222 would be a good choice if you’re concerned about heat, I can confidently say I’ve never had a single issue with that filler.

@@RTAFabrication Thanks much. will surely be awaiting the informative videos. I know the level of detail you place into your content,, it must be quite time consuming. I literally relooking this video for the 5th time... keep it up mate (Y) i will also try to locate this filler in my country and give it a try. Im actually in the final stages of printing my first A pillar build with the 3D printer. (inspired by RTA Fab)

Thanks man! Yeah it’s something I’ve been so close to getting for so long now but a number of things have stopped me from committing. I’m not taking on as many vehicle installations these days so I’ve been holding off until I can be sure the investment will be worth it and it gets plenty of use. The one I’ve been looking at is the Einscan HX, or HD, I can’t remember which without checking, but the scanner looks really good and the reverse engineering software looks brilliant too. Thanks for watching!

@@RTAFabrication you can get amazing results with lower price scanners. I have a Creality CR-Scan Lizard and I love it. I do all my body and engine parts on the racecar with it. I don't do cardboard prototypes and caliper measurements anymore.

Thanks and thanks for watching! Yeah I run the business by myself and film everything too. It’s pretty long winded, but I have an interest in cinematography so I do enjoy the filming aspect, with lighting, composition etc.

@@RTAFabrication amazing. cant wait for the next video

Haha, it's just nerves 😂 Still getting used to talking on camera. Thanks for watching though man, I'll get comfortable soon enough 😂

Haha, thanks man. Honestly I’m not as miserable as it may seem (assuming that’s what you mean). I’m pretty laid back and introverted, so I don’t express myself too much, also imposter syndrome is a real thing 😅

Thanks for watching. Honestly I can’t remember how long this job actually took in the end and the fact that I was filming it also added to the time I had the vehicle in for. If I was to estimate, the tweeter pods themselves would have probably taken a day, maybe into the second day slightly? Again hard to judge with filming and it depends if you account for the time the prototypes and the final part we’re printing, as I was able to do other things while that was happening.

I can’t remember which one I used in this video without checking, but I used to use a Upol Plast X 6 which is a flexible polyester filler specifically designed for plastic. I now use an equivalent product from HB Body called BumperSoft F222. The HB Body version has more resin in the mixture compared to the Upol version which can be quite dry and airy. The F222 lays down a lot nicer and is easier to work with. It’s particularly useful for interior trim fabrication and filling over joints between two plastic parts. With the varying temperatures in a vehicle interior, plastic parts will naturally expand and contract. As this filler is slightly flexible it will also expand and contract with the plastic parts. With this you have much less risk of the filler cracking at a joint compared to using a regular polyester filler that doesn’t have these characteristic and is rigid.

The last song playing in the video is awesome.

I’ll take a look at the project timeline when I’m back at work as I can’t remember off the top of my head. I’ll be sure to let you know when I’ve got the info 👍🏻

Yeah a 3D scanner has been on my radar for a good while. I’ve been looking at the Einscan HX with the reverse engineering software. The accuracy looks excellent and the software looks comprehensive with options , along with a straightforward workflow.

@@RTAFabrication Enterprise quality hardware is always worth the price. I use a Shining 3D AutoScan Sparkle for capturing jewelry designs i carve out of wax. It also works well for capturing table top miniatures.

Thanks man, I appreciate you coming back here and watching my stuff 👊🏻 love that quote too man 🤘🏻 Thanks again man

Same Here :D