The tenacity and perseverance to have such attention to detail blows me away everytime! I'll say it again, you are a MASTER CRAFTSMAN and your work is astounding!
You are a bloody legend! I don’t know how much research you do, but I know a bloody good tradesman when I see one! Hats off bro. And keep up the amazing work you do.
Such a blessing on a sunday morning to see a new video, hope your all good and thanks for all you continue to teach and inspire me to take to my own build
I'd look into other materials, like ASA. I recently learned that PLA has a creep issue, where it permanently deforms from any constant pressure, including gravity for large parts. I managed to find some ASA I could get for about the same price as cheap PLA. My source won't help you since I'm on the other side of the world, but since you are closer to the source than I am, I suspect you may be able to find a similar deal. A big plus is you could also use it to directly make interior components that could survive UV exposure as well as interior temperatures in direct sun light. Just make sure you don't breathe the fumes from ASA or any of those other potentially toxic filaments. You'd also have the option of vapor smoothing, more gluing options, and easier sanding. Really enjoying seeing you mixing scanning, modeling, and printing into your builds!!! Always learning something from your videos.
Huge improvements in the print quality! Who knew the baking tray was the secret all along? Some say a thin layer of olive oil also works great!🤣 Great work man!
Мужик ты крут - и это факт. Успорство в совокупности с работой серого вещества в твоей голове дают огромный прогресс. Приятно видеть как растет твой уровень и учится чему то новому у тебя. P.s. Ты очень упертый 👍
Tofu… more epic content. Big respect AGAIN for your work ethic. This process is not for the weak. Looks like you need more release wax. Lol. ❤the cat… does it have a name?
The release was actually really good, it's just that this shape has a bit of mechanical locking around the headlight cutout so you gotta be pretty careful popping it out. Her name is Spider.
Spider! Great cat name. Actually, regarding wax, I noticed how little was still in the tin as you swabbed it up! I remember using every tiny bit from the tin, too.
i would soak that fiberglass abit more otherwise you could end up with delaminations when driving, dont be scared to pour and dab as it get's it on quicker, love the content.
Have you ever tried an oscillating saw or renovator saw for trimming and cutting the body panels? I swear by them. quicker, a lot less mess and dust and cheaper in the long run as you don't go through discs as quick, the blade lasts for ages and take 2 seconds to sharpen if needed.
I've tried a jig saw and multitool. I find they can cause tearout or edge delamination but also if they slip out they have more of a chance of damaging the part. An angle grinder is a much smoother cutting action and I find I'm much better with it. There are ways to reduce dust with an angle grinder but it's honestly just not something I'm concerned with at this stage.
@TofuAutoWorks I would never question your skills or abilities. Your talent far surpasses mine, it blows me away what you're doing and achieving in basically a large shed with no specialist tools, outstanding workmanship
I love your work, and I don't know if it's just me or not, but does anyone else miss the subtitles, and then have to go back to actually reead them? I think it's because they're placed so low on the screen and the action is up higher that I just catch them flashing off and have to go back. Do you havee any control of CC placement? Just curious.
I think one thing I will attempt on future prints is printing "feet" off the backside of the print so that I can lay it flat on a surface to make sure I haven't bent / warped it while gluing the mould together. It sounds like the same thing you suggested yeah.
Bonjour Mr. Bravo pour votre travail je suis époustouflé par ce que vous faites. Je me pose une question. Quel est le matériaux utilisés pour vos impressions 3d?. Merci d’avance pour votre réponse. Cordialement
Yeah my OCD kicked in with no equal distance and especially one screw that is lower than the others. The work and attention to detail is amazing, so surprised by the screws.
Well done, thank you for sharing your work with all of us. I'm working to fit a C7 composite hood and wider front fenders to my 3000gt and there is some work that I have to do in order to make it look like a perfect fit. Pretty much I have some ideas of what to do, watching your work makes it easier for me, thank you so much. I'm not a professional car body worker, but I'm not afraid to try, and so far I feel satisfied with what I has been able to do. I would like to ask you for advice on additional custom work that I want to do on my front bumper. And it has to do with gluing fiberglass to the original plastic. If I go that way; what type of glue will you consider the best? So far I have been looking at some of the 3M brands, I could be wrong but I understand that Chevy is using the 3M brands to glue their Corvette panels, do you know or are familiar enough to tell me which 3M glue is the best for that purpose? Thank you.
Hey mate, unfortunately I don't really have a recommendation as I always try and avoid bonding fiberglass to plastic as they have such different properties that there is a high chance that no matter what glue you use, eventually a crack will form along the join. For temporary situations I've been able to use epoxy resin to fiberglass straight onto plastic as long as it was keyed thoroughly.
@@TofuAutoWorks I really appreciate your response, thank you so much. I never thought about trying the epoxy resin for that purpose. And I understand that is not a permanent solution, but, both of those front noses were about to be scraped anyway. So I want to see how it turns. I'm 65 years old and always like to do something that separates my car from the crowd as long as it looks simple but different. Thank you, and I can't wait to see your finished project.
Hey man, what kind of wall thickness and infill are you using on the prints? I've been using solid 2mm walls with ribbing across the back of the panels and bolting them together. I'll have to try what you're doing with the dowels to see how it compares.
In the end I'm pretty sure I went with a 1.6mm wall with a 15mm part thickness and 12% infill. You could get away with a 10mm part thickness for smaller parts to save some time and filament.
