Making sense out of glaze recipes 

Your comment is 4 years old. How did it turn out?

YaYa Studio yes!! Distilled water will help eliminate one variable from the equation.... good advice!

Clever! That way you won't introduce extra calcium.

tara squibb

It's expensive to use the premix so there is some cost saving to mixing yourself. But one needs to buy and sieve and chemicals in bulk, storage space, and scale etc. So no one has ever cost for me but I guess we could use a calculator. For some it might not be a saving.

autumn green you could try using zircopax, it is an opacifier and should give you a nice satin opaque white. I'd do a few tests using it at different percentages before trying it on any large pieces.

Marcia Johnson I have a bunch available on www.clayshare.com just sign up(it's free) and the glazes are all listed under resources. :)

. Most ceramics suppliers have a table on their site or google Ceramic cone firing table and images of charts come up. Most ceramics books have one. In a manual kiln cones are placed in a kiln sitter (3 prongs set inside kiln). The cone rests on 2 and the 3rd sits on the cone. Cones all melt at specific temperatures and when the temperature is reached the cone slumps in the middle causing the 3rd prong to fall down which shuts the kiln off. Computerized kilns do not need a cone to shut off. Different clays fire at different temperatures, as do glazes. If you were to fire earthenware at porcelain temperatures the clay will basically melt out of shape. Bisques firing is generally quite low (anywhere from 08 to 04 depenmding on your clay body)If you were to fire an earthenware glaze (cone 04) at porcelain cone 10 the glaze would melt right off. Imagine a scale showing negative and positive numbers 0 being the middle. Cones are similar. cone 04 by comparison is on the negative side and cone 4 is on the positive side. Earthenware, Stoneware and true porcelain all have certain temperatures they should be fired at to reach their proper vitification (impermeability to water.) A long answer but it is an important aspect of firing. Check your local library. (This is a good book Beginner's Guide to Pottery & Ceramics : Everything You Need to Know to Start Making Beautiful Ceramics by Jacqui Atkin @ $20) and try this site for a table of cones: www.clay-king.com/kilns/pyrometric_cone_temperature_chart.html

okhomestead I've used it on laguna bmix, a buff stoneware and it looks similar as to the porcelain.. maybe a little less Blue but that's the only difference.

Allie Hunter I mix my Chun to a specific gravity of 47 :)

Mirjana Curanovic Oxidation is a kiln firing, where an abundance of oxygen is available, for the glazes and clay bodies to react with. This is normally done, in an electric kiln, but can be done in any kiln, as long as the fuel is fully combusted. Reduction, is where there is a lack of oxygen in the kiln, resulting in the build up of carbon, starving the glazes and clay bodies of oxygen. This is done in gas and wood kilns.

Different recipes take more or less. Mix and measure on your fingernail or use a measuring device. She explains that in some of her videos.

Carolyn Brown hmmm... I'm not sure but it sounds cool to try. Why not make a few test glazes and see!

You could try Custer feldspar or minspar. I am currently testing both to find a sub that gives the same results as the g200

Look around suppliers G200 is available some places. Highwater for example

Allie Hunter

BabyBlueKoi I use silicosil but any fine mesh silica should work.

No. I'd start with cone 10 recipe from a top potter. You can always experiment as you go along.

My Chun needs to be applied thickly and if you sub for the G200 you have to use Mahvair Feldspar to get a good blue. Any other feldspar will make the glaze too green. :)

G200 is no longer being mined :( The replacement is Mahvair from laguna.It is not as good but it is all that is available.

Patrick Chaopricha Her chun glaze here uses copper carb., not cobalt.

Flyover Pilgrim Indeed. Though copper is also something to use carefully, when making functional ware. People with Wilson's Disease, accumulate excess copper in their bodies. So while some copper leaching, from a glaze wouldn't harm the average person, it would be a huge issue to someone with Wilson'. The same is true with iron, and someone with Hemochromatosis.

Kevin Leong well I haven't had it tested in a lab so I can't say for sure but I have done leaching test with lemon and the glaze passed so I'd say it is. I've been using it for almost 10 years and have had no issues and there is hardly any copper in it so.....

If it is from Mastering Cone 6 Glazes, I'm fairly certain that it, foodsafe. They have quite a few liner glazes listed in there as well.

Its not a type-o you only need .5%. This glaze has to be really thick to get good color pay off. Also any substitutions will complexity change the glaze color. I have found that Mahvair is the best option as a sub for G200 but it is not nearly as good as the original feldspar. :)

@@JessicaPutnamPhillips I used minspar because a couple of gurus and my supplier recommended it is a direct replacement. I will trust you and try and get the other. My glaze was not super thick. It was actually thinner than I wanted it and I had thought about doing another quarter recipe and dumping it into send it out and I probably should have done that. By the way I instinctively added one drop of sodium silicate to smooth it out and I don't know if I should have sodium silicate I know you already know but I'm saying this anyway is a deflocculant. The funny thing is where it was real thick I got beautiful perfect blue just like yours so perhaps that was it I just made it to watery. I came up with something I most nearly identical using the 5x20 bass recipe and 1% copper carbonate. I mean the color matches amazing I couldn't believe it but again it was too thin and to glassy. Not quite as bad as the original one and I'm sure now that I think of it it was just due to the amount of water I added. I'm still new to this so I'm not going to get too mad at myself at this point. I am however going to buy the tiniest Kiln that I can find for developing glazes. I don't want to run a kiln just for a handful of tiles you know? Maybe I'll build one I got enough brick and I know and I made a big jig on my metal Mill to cut the channels for repair brick it works perfectly so I could actually just make a 2 element Kiln just for just for test tiles. Shit I could run it off of a variac and just turn it up 25% every two hours it would be perfect I am definitely going to do this maybe I'll send you some pictures I really appreciate you helping me that's very nice of you. So now I am going to go down and reproduce this glazed one more time and leave it very very thick and I'll leave out the sodium silicate perhaps.

@@JessicaPutnamPhillips okay I have a major problem here I made it 24 hundred grand badge so I could actually dip and I'm going to sacrifice somebody times to dip and get a good amount of glaze on them. The problem is I made it a couple of days ago and every morning I go to stir it up again and the bottom is so hard that it takes me literally an hour to stir up. I've tried a little bit of V gum and it did basically nothing Help! (:

Yes, you can use the base recipe and try adding different oxides/minerals to it. I have used it with success with just a bit of Cobalt. Really anything that works well with a zinc based glaze can be used! :)

Jessica Putnam-Phillips . So not chrome

awesome!!! I never thought to make my own ingredients something for me to look in to! :)

Jeez I reread what I wrote and it's full of autocorrect typos, lack of punctuation etc etc etc. I'm so sorry I have a physical disability and I use voice recognition and sometimes for some reason it doesn't screw up until you hit enter and by that time you're on to your next thought and miss it

@@JessicaPutnamPhillips I can't find G200! I have everything else, What is an alternate name for the g-200 I have absolutely everything else I just need the g-200 so I can try this help!