making super fast bike 

Yep, thats why it is pointless.

ever heard of a pro cyclist?a climber?a comuter?a gravel biker?

agreed, when comparing the revolutions/s from the start of the video with the end of the video, he probably just had a speed of 20km/h

@@brianmeow Have you ever heard of a pro cyclist that has a contraption like this? No? Well there is a reason why they don't use these. You can't climb with them, they are for smooth DH only.

My friend. Is for efficiency . I Hope you understand . Thanks you

смысл в том, что можно развить скорость 70 км в час с горки.Крутя при этом педали с частотой как 0:16.То есть не особо часто.

depends on the rider and what rpm the riders power band is. this would be perfect for a fast twitch person. ie anaerobic athletes.

​@@ScreamingEagleFTW The problem is that fast twitch dominant cyclists are actually good at... higher rpm. I know cycling world jumped on slow twitch = higher cadence bandwagon long time ago but recent studies show it's more complicated than that at best. Speed of contraction does matter. Athletes with higher percentage of fast twitch fibers are better predisposed to higher pedaling rates. So I'd say this crank would be good for an athlete with A LOT of slow twitch fibers which sheer amount allows for higher torque.

we already know that fast twitch fibers create more force, more limit strength, more tension but for shorter durations. Red fibers are for endurance, sub maximal contractions over and over. Only one way to find out. At least we agree that starting out at a full stop in a high gear the advantage would go to the fast twitch guy if acceleration was the goal. @@michwoz

@@ScreamingEagleFTW Of course. Although you don't need that much force while pedaling in most scenarios (even at higher intensities), during sprinting or at very low cadence coupled with high power, high rate of force development is required which only fast twitch fibers can provide.

_"Fun fact: gear ratio is not a limiter of bicycle performance."_ More fun fact: bicycle performance is limited to air resistance and gravity. Even more fun fact: larger sprockets cannot overcome air resistance and gravity.

Well maybe then change the chainring ro something a bit smaller like 38 t 34 t or something

@@freshmentosxxxx1709xxxx it just made the bike heavier, it didn't do anything else

@@alexsarpele6477 oh ok

Yup only super fast if you can super pedal it.

But You run faste

I think he tried to increase his torque?

Going In the wrong directooon

he passed them like they were standing still.

😂😂😂😂😂😂

Yea, it is pointless.

@@jurekgadzinowski2895 it's more like making a Video for YT.

Ты главное этому изобретателю не говори. Пусть сам всё узнает ))))

может он не знает есть педали с тремя звездами . тот же хрен только легче

In fact he makes the bike worse, because more moving parts meant more rotational mass which means more watts lost in process. Basically this reduced efficiency of the drivetrain.

lower tempo means more achievable ride for most for longer, stop hating

@@littlehills739 lol how tf am I hating? I’m giving constructive criticism. Stop being a baby getting offended by everything.

@@PP-cm4re constructive criticism? what was the constructive part?

Lower cadence on flat improves cycling comfort. Higher tooth front crank does same.

😁😁😁😁😁

by adding a four stroke engine.. lol

Yes, less drag from the chain on sprockets and less weight. Its pointless unless everywhere you ride is downhill though because you can only gear a bike up so much before its too hard to pedal. The builder is faking the speeds by using downhills to appear fast. As big a bullshit line as all those free energy electric motors videos.

I'll take gear reduction

You could get into ground clearance issues with a huge chainring, so for a MTB something like this would be better. and you wouldn't realistically need that big tho, you can buy a 70t chainring off the shelf and fit it with a 9t rear cog and I don't think anyone would be able to pedal that up to even a steady 90 cadence. It would need a huge downhill atleast. If you really wanna fly pair that up with a internal gear hub and you'll be going 90kph at 60 cadence.

It adds little relative complexity

Of course it doesnt, also the better way would be changing the cassette to the 12 speed one that has the smaller gear with 10, not 13 or 14 teeth like this one.

Ако трябваше, щяха в завода да му монтират тези предавки.

Versteht kein Mensch

Podrá dar más detalles o tendrá un video guía para mantener el par esfuerzo para mantener la velocidad por promedio 30 km/h

La deal este foarte nepractic

Is it possible to go faster in this case?

A time trial bike already has a higher gear ratio than that in the video. They can go 80kph and more whereas this showed a top speed of 70. You only need a big chainring, like 56 teeth

Its not more compact. Its heavier and less efficient. And it looks ugly. A big chain ring is beautiful. Just get a bigger ring.

390km 😂

On the other hand, the idea of ​​simply creating a faster bike by gearing lacks knowledge of the available power and wind resistance. Doesn't it seem logical that faster bikes would already have been invented and widely available if it was that simple?

No, you're illogical - this bike has four gears working simultaneously, this has not been done before@@TheKIMANO

@@cpmorgan5000 I am completely logical. Unless you can override the laws of physics, you can add all the gears you want. A TDF cyclist delivers, on average, somewhere between 220 and 240 W on a regular stage, and that must be said to be the top of what can be delivered. We are therefore talking about a force which, for car experts, corresponds to 1/3 HP. In addition, you have a wind resistance that increases exponentially with the speed. It's great to experiment and try new ways, but the laws of physics are what they are. The bicycle is an old invention that has been refined for centuries and a modern racing bicycle has almost no transmission resistance. But what little resistance there is after all becomes twice as great by adding twice as many gears.

@@TheKIMANO I was just playing

@@cpmorgan5000 It's a bit embarrassing that I didn't catch it, but English is not my native language and I am sometimes provoked by "fantatic" free energy inventions. But I'm glad you didn't have to be taken literally ;-)

Of course yess

You you seriously asking if it takes more power to ride faster?

Yes, because of physics. The footage in the end is fake/sped up.

​@Alex it's not fake, its downhill

It takes the same amount of power to attain the same speed, but the difference is that you apply more force more slowly. Thus, your legs make fewer cycles to get the same distance. This is great for the people with overpowered legs, but not so great for everybody else.

En subidas lo unico que tiene que hacer es equilibrar los dientes de cada crankset. Es Claro que es una bicicleta del alta velocidad y no seria practica para velocidad cambiante en una ciudad. Pero sin duda sera una maravilla para gente que vive entre pueblos cercanos

simple, it's completely pointless. All you're really doing is adding extra friction. more speed allways correlates with less torque at the same power input. Also, it's one thing to get the wheels spinning up to 60+ (couldn't tell from the video if it was kmh or mph) while they're not touching the ground and the bike doesn't have to overcome air resistance, which at these speeds is the main thing you're pedalling against. Want more speed, but keep it usable? Get a giant front chain ring and have the sprockets in the casette cover a large span of diameters

No me digas señor obvio, en serio la relacion sera mas dura??? waooo quien lo diria... Porque los que hablan español siempre comentan ese tipo de tonterias?, no te vas a cansar mas, incluso te cansaras menos, porque lo que cansa no es hacer fuerza, es tener que pedalear muuuucho, eso es lo que cansa, cuando tenes que meter 100 pedales por minuto para poder llegar a 45km/h, te cansas mucho mas que si tuvieras que solo dar 20 pedales por minuto para llegar a los 45/h, aunque tengas que meterle un poco mas de fuerza, eso no es nada, lo importante es no tener que dar tanto pedaleo. Te lo digo por exp propia, yo anduve por mucho tiempo con un cambio muy liviano, hasta que me canse de ir tan lento a coste de tantos pedaleos, un dia me tope con unos ciclistas que me sobrepasaban por mucho en velocidad sin sudar una gota, me preguntaba como eran capaces de ir tan rapido pedaleando tan despacio y sin cansarse, hasta que descubri que era porque tenian un cambio mas pesado, asi que fui a que me le pongan un cambio mas pesado a mi bici (48 dientes plato con el piñon mas pequeño de 11 dientes) y ahora ando super rapido sin cansarme, con apenas dar un par de pedales voy rapidismo, ya ni me canso para ir a cualquier lugar. Aumentar la fuerza siempre es la mejor via en la bici.

Mejor vario y con p inercial 😂

concordo

Нужно делать электробайк с педалями, гоняй на электро тяге, потом крути педали как сядет аккум.

@@user-yd3ir4wb1m можно делать гибриды но это уже другая тема. Здесь использована не отключаемая дополнительная раздатка, создающая только проблемы. Вопрос еще и в безопасности - падать на скорости 60км на велике, а всё может быть, эко как?

waoo en serio??? no me digas.... obviamente necesitara mas fuerza, el chiste aca es que la fuerza es muy facil de conseguir, solo es entrenar un poco y listo te acostumbras al poco tiempo a manejar ese cambio, lo dificil es tratar de superar los 40 km/h con un plato de 38 dientecitos, tendrias que dar 100 pedaleadas por segundo para llegar a pasar la barrera de los 40 km, perooooo, con un plato de 60 dientes por ejemplo, podrias alcanzar facilmente incluso los 50 km/h con solo dar 50 pedaleadas por minuto, al final la cadencia es mucho mas dificil de conseguir que la fuerza, por eso es mejor añadir mas fuerza a la bici, que cadencia a la hora de mejorar la velocidad.

@@benjamingomez4040 estás hablando en serio? No, verdad? No has montado en bici en tu vida.

@@benjamingomez4040 El amigo es de los que cambia las llantas para que el carro vaya mas rapido.

​@@dss12345678más o menos, tendrías que ser un ciclista de pista para entrenar correctamente ratios así de altos, es posible pero igual en pista normalmente se maneja más rpm que potencia, porque no importa que puedas mover 14/68 si no tenes las rpm para llevarlo a altas velocidades

Не свернешь

Если только с горки с попутным ветром.

No

Разве что под гору

Esto es un proyecto por diversión. No una innovación

No need to do that though, just put on a bigger front chain ring and you have the same result. My Bafang powered bike hits 59kph with normal mtb gearing as it is.

I’m sure it will break down like the CVT in a Nissan too.

remine me of a honda cvt gearbox for a mtb

The road rash could pretty ugly without the helmet...

No telling, you actually could tell very easily with the right bits of info. A standard bike gear ratio spinning at 100 revolutions per minute in a 52 12 chain ring cassette combo would yield a speed of around 65 mph. Plenty fast. Also if it's a crap bike and/or aluminum frame that's when stuff start vibrating off and breaking. Unnecessary and esthetically makes me want to vomit and my eyes want to commit suicide.

You indeed need alot of leg watts

Lol, ifyou cannot peddle at the rpm of 60-90 then it is time to see a doctor. This gearing is insanely pointless. Average commuter cyclist is able to peddle at the 70rpm. 70rpm on this bike is more than 100kmh, how the hell are you going to acclerate to the 100kmh on a such high hear? the lowest gear at 60rpm makes you go 30kmh. And the peak power of human legs on a bicycle is at around 100rpm.

@@DoomNerd67200 _"You indeed need alot of leg watts"_ the one problem is you are limited to the amount of torque produced by your own body weight. Any more torque than your own body weight would be lifting you off the saddle instead of pushing you forward. Well, that is unless someone installed a seatbelt.

Как называется втулка с внешней резьбой и двумя шлицами на площадке? Никак не могу найти от чего эта деталь, может она мопедная?

Старая шоссейная система чашка с педального вала можно любую использовать подходит

Não vi vantagem nesse projeto não, só da pra usa a marcha traseira!! E sem falar que solda a catraca não é o ideal, o melhor é ter feito algo que pudesse ser trocado quando desse problema!!!

hahahaha

It would also need an insanely heavy motor drawing insane amounts of power in order to get that high torque. You would get up maybe one hill before needing a recharge.

I'm running a mid drive 750w Bafang bike now, the torque using standard mtb ratios is enough to climb any hill easily. There is no point in this system with a mid motor bike, especially as I'm getting 59kph easily as is.

@@GB-vn1tf Basically the fellow who produced this video was showing off his welding skills by not improving something that needed no improvement.

@@GB-vn1tf snap the chain and perhaps?

@@GB-vn1tf I'm going to be trying this anyway I have a couple of electric bikes with rear hub drives I've been looking for a really large front gear so I could pedal at high speeds I'm going to go ahead and try this anyway and I'll let you guys know how it works out

Pelo que entendi, não seria melhor que todas as coroas maiores tivessem 52/53D e somente a pequena fosse de 9D ???

Or just change the rear sprocket. Or both. Either way, the end result is the same.

@@akisalmenaho8473 But both ways would end without having a video ;-) I'm pretty sure the video was the only intention for thos build, the bike will be pretty useless with that high gear ratio.

Like a real casette, not that 20 year old vintage crap, with the smallest gear with 13 or 14 tooth, instead of 11 or 10.

no many bikes still come with front derailleur. they've just fallen out of favor cause there mostly useless, in regards to the number of gears you'll actually need or use whil out on the road. the advantage of a front derailleur is not to get 21 speeds but to have a down shift to a smaller gear which is handy and smoother when going up the hill. where changing to a bigger gear on the back to downshift is more clunky when your required cadance is hard to maintain. with most e-bikes and a lot being hub driven its actually better just to have a small gear ratio where its easy to pedal to get started and a high one to switch into when your moving along nicely as you don't need much else.

Thanks @Plaxy100, I've been out of mtb since Sram just started introducing the XX & X1. Now back in with post-divorce budget (~$0), I'll eventually get to upper level cranksets. For now, the frisbee-sized ninja stars appearing on the granny side of 12 speed cassettes make me wonder how close these ratios still are. My Southwest US racing commonly involved >1 hour climbs at over 10,000 ft. I needed to keep the granny gears close together as I have a very rapid narrow-range climbing cadence. I just don't see how the fine tuning can remain for the most demanding XC riding when you reduce all prior solutions to a 12 speed. Thoughts? (I know, I know, I can plug the numbers into a spreadsheet to get all the ratios, but I suspect that on-the-trail may feel different than on paper.)

Front derailleur is only good for stop acceleration. Useless otherwise, just a piece of metal adding weight, dirt and rust risk

@@Aphorism89 Higher top speed is another reason for it. The tiny single cranks that come on bikes today suck ass for everything except coasting downhill.

@@Inmate533 luckily they are easy to replace and relatively inexpensive. I mean, one can eventually take them out and buy too quality ones instead. I wouldn't mind having 2 plates, used to have that on my road bike and it was great. But now a days I'd always try to minimize. The least elements, the least maintenance and risks :/

Road bike gearing.

No es obvio que para subir colinas no sirve?

@@benjazz8128 pues no sabría determinar eso por el tipo de relación que maneja pues el plato delantero es pequeño y si el cambio trasero sube al plato mas grande se supone que debe quedar un cambio suave para subir terrenos con pendientes, por eso le pido el favor al autor del video si puede explicarnos.

At the first moment I thought the same. But if you really look at it, its no bearings that fell out. The parts that "fell out" are the claws that prevents the cassette to run free in both directions. As he shows after putting it together again, the casette can run free in both directions. Usually a casette can run in free in one direction only, otherwise it wouldnt turn the wheel. I think that build is nice made. But it's of course still a very old and well known technology to connect gears ion series for increasing the gear ratio. If it would make any sense manufacturers of bicycles would use it since a long time.

The parts removed were the ratchet pawls (they make the click or buzz sound from the rear wheel). He removed them because that part is a rear hub and cassette. Without them, it will spin freely without engaging or clicking, just a straight bearing.

@@gangstreG123 I suppose I should learn more about bikes then if I'm going to be serious about building one. 45 years ago when they were my primary mode of transportation I just rode them, wrecked them, and Hustled up a new one if it wasn't ridable anymore