Making the most Gothic Vampy Dark Witchy Edwardian Outfit EVER

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Thanks to this videos sponsor Audible! Audible.com has tons of great audiobooks, podcasts, and more- just check out www.audible.com/nicoler for more! (I highly recommend both The Golden Thread by Kassia St. Clair and Women's Work by Elizabeth Wayland Barber)
It's the final video in my 1910s series! I've made a corset, brassiere, hat, vestee, and shoes leading up to this point and now it's time for the dress. My work is based on an antique belonging to Abby Cox which is from 1914. It's an elegant black silk jacquard skirt and tunic with exquisite details of drapery, tucks, and embroidery. But the inside is even more complex than the exterior! Though the pieces are from an era where sewing machines were commonly used, very little of this garment is done by machine. Instead, we find evidence of a great deal of hand sewing and minute alterations for what was clearly a custom fit garment.
Unfortunately the lining has since deteriorated away, taking with it any chance of a label, but instead we have been left with an open window to its construction methods. Which makes this an ideal piece to reproduce, not only for the sake of the garment itself, but for the sewing techniques we can learn from it!
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🖼 1910: libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/dig...
🖼 1910: libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/dig...
🖼 1913: libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/dig...
🖼 1913: libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/dig...
🖼 1914: libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/dig...
🖼 1914 Skirt: libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/dig...
🖼 1914 Bodice: libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/dig...
🖼 1914 High Collar: library.si.edu/image-gallery/...
🖼 1916: libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/dig...
🖼 1917: libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/dig...
🖼 1919: libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/dig...
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com)

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Опубликовано:

20 мар 2021

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Комментарии : 410

@alegria101 3 года назад

My brain immediately went to "this would make a phenomenal murder mystery dinner outfit". So striking!

@Kick0a0cat 2 года назад

For the widow that is surely innocent!

@jenndixon1002 3 года назад

I'm just picturing you walking down a dark foggy street in Paris wearing this, with black elbow length gloves and a frilly black umbrella. And scaring the bejeezus out of some poor passerby, thinking they just had a supernatural encounter.

@rhondacrosswhite8048 3 года назад

Yes!

@maryamjoha 3 года назад

Either than or were experiencing a time slip!

@thecalicoheart7946 3 года назад

😂

@eduardopayton7776 2 года назад

I guess im asking randomly but does any of you know of a method to log back into an instagram account? I was dumb lost my account password. I would appreciate any help you can give me!

@willhunter3571 2 года назад

@Eduardo Payton Instablaster ;)

@lucie4185 3 года назад

It's very interesting that so many pieces were made separately, it's useful to remember that "back in the day" dressmaking used lots of different professionals to make one garment and how impressive it is that Nicole has the skills of all of them!!

@minagica 3 года назад

Well, a bunch of those professionals' skills overlap, they were just specialized in their fields because the economy supported the existence of said specialized fields. Not to take away from Nicole, just to not underestimate those professionals of past 😘

@historicalgarb8790 3 года назад

Imagine being able to just wander around a ocean liner in the 1910s wearing an outfit like that.

@jenndixon1002 3 года назад

Omg, yeeeeesssss. Someone get this woman to Titanic 2.

@melissamenchaca9121 3 года назад

You mean before you freeze/drown?

@stevezytveld6585 3 года назад

I can see her wandering around the older, Bytown areas, of Ottawa. Actually, a few years back, as part of one of the indi festivals, a local actress played a Victorian lady who toured the ghost locations in the city. It was a wonderful effect. Now we have haunted walks. Could you imagine walking by a group of women, out on the town, dressed like this on a foggy night? - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown

@KKIcons 2 года назад

@@stevezytveld6585 I wonder if anyone took photos? Those would be memorable, and I would like to see photos of that part of Ottawa anyway.

@KKIcons 2 года назад

@@stevezytveld6585 I also think that someone should dress as Glenn Gould and his mother, (just think, she could have worn a dress like this, as she was in her 20's in 1914.) We have a Victorian night in our local town, and I hope to get a group of ladies in Edwardian fashion out someday for it. We might make the Victorians look a little dowdy and old fashioned with our smart 1914 fashions lol.

@disconouveauneedlework5975 3 года назад

Well I'll be damned if this outfit didn't improve my night vision and made my canine teeth grow. YOU LOOK SO BLOODY GOOD IN THIS!!!!! (and the skills you showed us on the road to getting here are +++++. Extra blood bag points for elegant wrist movement when you showed us the final ensemble).

@Kick0a0cat 2 года назад

Lol :D

@Sudenveri 3 года назад

Every single time, starting a sewing project I think will be easy: "Pfft, this'll take LITERALLY five minutes." Three hours later: "..."

@madelinebeatlesgirl 3 года назад

I’m on my fourth week of an 1890s undergarment project I thought would take a single weekend 😂💀

@andinarizkia 3 года назад

Same💀 designed my own skirt and thought it'd be finished in two weeks (pattern+mockups+production)... it's been a month.

@LexiZuhlke 3 года назад

That black on black embroidery though... There's no other color that seems to have that same effect. I think that's why it's my favorite color!

@caithemburrow5569 3 года назад

I really like white work as well but I do agree that black looks amazing

@ragnkja 2 года назад

@@caithemburrow5569 This is technically "whitework" (blackwork and whitework got their names based on the assumption that they were done on white fabric), but I agree that there's something _extra_ when it's in black.

@josieofalltrades3559 3 года назад

Gosh, the level of detail you put into such an accurate reproduction just blows me away!

@robynnhood 3 года назад

The way you say "hello, everyone and welcome" makes me want to tell you all my secrets. Every. Single. Time.

@Majmysza 3 года назад

It is bewitching, isn't it!!!

@robynnhood 3 года назад

@@Majmysza Utterly. Bewitching exactly describes Nicole, her voice, and that outfit.

@janusquiamco7128 3 года назад

I didn’t know skirts had already gone up so high at the end of the 19-teens. I was under the impression that it was only in the 20s that skirts started to go above the ankles. Now i’m curious about fashion in the last five years of the 19-teens. Hope you can go more in-depth on this period in a future video.

@lenabreijer1311 3 года назад

WWI was happening and many women started working in male dominated jobs to replace those called up. They started running hospitals and convalescent homes. They worked on farms and in factories and drove trucks and ambulances.

@lucie4185 3 года назад

My mum has a photo of my great grandparents taken around 1915 and I am going to be analysing their outfits like crazy next time I see it. Although they wouldn't have been able to afford anything as up to the minute as this.

@EnnameMori 3 года назад

Absolutely - there is a spectacular photo of my grandmother at 17 in 1919 and her skirt is mid calf. Even tho she is a country girl from rural Australia.

@MrsBrit1 3 года назад

My great grandparents married in 1919 and mommaw's dress was mid calf. It has a large peplum type overskirt which falls right at her hands, so around mid thigh or so. I'm not sure what color it was, but it's fairly dark in the photo. There is some floral embroidery, mostly looks to be tone on tone, at the shoulders and a basic sash belt and slender, full length sleeves.

@nicolakunz231 3 года назад

OMG its the witchcore dress, its the actual witchcore dress!! and thats the Vestee... its YOU! *subscribes*

@TheMetatronGirl 3 года назад

It looks better than I even imagined! I love the draping of the skirt. It’s one of those incredible pieces that you notice something new every time you see it. Incredible job!! My 20 year old gothic self swooned at the reveal and desperately wants to be a 1914 femme fatale.

@gloglos100 2 года назад

The skirt is wonderful. Love one of those.

@nidomhnail2849 3 года назад

A tribute to the 1910's makers.

@NinaNorr 3 года назад

Nicole, you are pure genius, what a level of craftsmanship skills.

@oliveu535 3 года назад

I can’t tell you how much I am obsessed with this witchy Edwardian ensemble. I think you’re the absolute coolest and I’m so glad I found your channel

@katwitanruna 3 года назад

::snaps fan open and flutters it vigorously:: Oh my!! How dashing!!

@fiberterian 3 года назад

Seeing the garments on a body instead of the original flat on a table makes me understand why you and Abby were so intrigued with it and it's construction. You've done a fantastic job on this and all the accessories. I'm in awe!

@sarahrosen4985 3 года назад

We need to see these pieces again individually and in bright light so we can be more awestruck by the details, form and movement.

@lucie4185 3 года назад

When she turns and you see all the draping on the skirt 😍

@francespowell6923 3 года назад

So many of the people I watch listen to audiobooks. Meanwhile, while I'm sewing/knitting/crocheting/gardening I'm listening to you (the collective you).

@LonnieMartin Год назад

Me too

@sharonshields1482 3 года назад

That dress looks like it belongs in the opening credits for MasterPiece Theater.

@sarahrosen4985 3 года назад

I was sure that Christine McConnell was going to knock on the door and ask to borrow the dress.

@DEMIPINTEcreations 3 года назад

--insert grovelling in the style of Pain and Panic from Hercules This is everything my teenage death metal princess self would have wanted to make, had I been able to do it back then. I adore it, and you're AMAZING. I’m still getting over the shoes. Aforementioned teenage self is now clamouring at adult me to abandon all current projects to do something like this even though I still don't have the skills lol

@rhondacrosswhite8048 3 года назад

Oh Nicole, you can’t see me but I am on my knees bowing down to your talent, patience and skill in recreating this ensemble. You look lovely in it and I know it feels wonderful having that silk charmeuse next to your skin (that’s what I make slips and nightgowns from). The weights in the jacket are reminiscent of the chains in Mme Chanel’s jackets so I know it hangs perfectly. Enough of my drooling, I’m going to watch the whole thing again.

@LilienBea 3 года назад

If you liked the golden thread, I can highly recommend basically every book by Elizabeth Wayland Barber! She is extremely knowledgeable in the textile field :)

@NicoleRudolph 3 года назад

I've got my favorite book of hers recommend in the description! Though I have others as well. Definitely a staple in grad school!

@taylorr.s8082 3 года назад

It makes you wonder if people are going to analyze our fashion and trends in 150 years. Those mom jeans, middle parts and cropped shirts. This piece is stunning.

@lumindoesvideos 3 года назад

1910's seems like someone got super bored with the usual fashion of earlier times. Also that black on black embroidery is hnnnnngh. There's something about black embroidery on black fabric that makes it so beautiful. Also, my guess for getting the look of this piece would be pattern, embroidery, construction. It's just a thought but it would make a lot of sense.

@cincocats320 3 года назад

"Put together by hand"...words to make my heart sing, being a slow poke hand sewer. This was already my favorite era...this garment is officialy my OBSESSION!

@ZolaZsun 3 года назад

Awesome, my grandmother was a teenager in that era ... :) she had a coupla stories for me.

@jacksonrodriguez2703 3 года назад

Hi crone

@foxxielane2196 3 года назад

This gives me a very strong Morticia Addams vibe and I'm loving it. Great job Nicole, well done.

@katharinedonnelly8343 3 года назад

This turned out absolutely gorgeous!! It’s really something to see the recreated dress in motion on a real body

@lucie4185 3 года назад

It looks completely different even compared to being on a stand!

@rameyzamora1018 3 года назад

Holy crow! Nicole could have built a house with all the time, effort, skill & care she used to re create this ensemble! Consider my jaw dropped, young lady.

@astra1653 3 года назад

All I can say is just... wow! I really didn't think it was going to be as dramatic of an ensemble when you started, after seeing the original on the mannequin on Abby's channel. I am more than pleasantly surprised, I am stunned! The entirety of it worn all together is beautiful, and you certainly deserve to take your bow as a maker.

@minagica 3 года назад

Let's please not forget that some people didn't follow fashion, making "outdated" styles historically accurate later than advertised 😉😂 Fantastic series! 😘

@historicalgarb8790 3 года назад

Total Wicked Witch of the West vibes and I love it

@wendynordstrom3487 3 года назад

You must have had EXCELLENT lighting and great eyesight for this INCREDIBLE job. I'm just flabbergasted by all the work out into this. You're so talented, Nicole!

@rebeccac5021 3 года назад

I spent most of the video wondering how long it took you just to find the just materials and finishings, let alone even beginning to pattern and make each and every component. I am utterly in awe.

@kathleenmarguerite4461 3 года назад

You look like someone out of an Edward Gorey picture. It’s fabulous and I love it. Thank you for sharing all the sewing secrets that went into it.

@thepinkpooper 3 года назад

Oh My Gods! Hard to believe human hands made such magical witchy clothes. Amazing!

@madeleinerose7090 3 года назад

Well, I feel like I should just give up sewing now. I. Can’t. Even. I said last week the shoes were the most magnificent shoes I’ve ever seen. They are. The hat was awe-inspiring. The effort and details put into this beautifully embroidered gown - absolutely exquisite! You look like you stepped straight out of the Tardis after attending a very posh affair dressed in your glamorous finery. Brava! 🖤🖤

@euansmith3699 2 года назад

The detailing on this outfit is astonishing. I've not seen the rest of this series, so I was kind of shocked to see that it is all hand-embroidery. It is like something out of Edward Gory. Wonderful.

@janicemurphy4373 2 года назад

THINGS WERE SO WELL MADE LONG AGO, I HAVE A FEW, VERY FEW PIECES OF THINGS AND ACCESSORIES MADE LONG AGO!!!!! I LOVE THINGS LIKE THIS!!!!!!

@apwhoa7767 Год назад

I have been sewing for over 40 years, nothing about this highly detailed piece looked easy. Beautifully Done ✨

@cinemaocd1752 3 года назад

This outfit is peak Edward Gorey...The final product was breathtaking.

@Majmysza 3 года назад

I love everything about the process and the final product (the detail!) but I think I'm even more here for the mysterious music that hints we are getting near the end, and how you present the outfit in the end. This is such cinematographic delight to watch!

@devinbaggs7542 3 года назад

Oh wow that reveal... Nicole serving 1914s vampire chic *chef's kiss*

@annettemurphy9846 3 года назад

This channel is SOO informative, you are MAD talented ! 🖤🕸

@BM-gp8zn 2 года назад

The luxury of that outfit... like. Thinking about whoever wore the original got me daydreaming about excess wealth. Using the floral ikat silk as a *lining* was a power move, truly a display of opulence and tackiness never seen before or since. Stunning.

@melmelhodgepodge3800 2 года назад

I love the fact that older garments left so much room for alteration.

@jirup 3 года назад

Bravo! I have been waiting since Abbey's unboxing of this garment. Thank you Nicole, for warming my dark Edwardian soul.

@rd6203 3 года назад

I love the intro to this. Myself, am specifically partial to 1915... and 1917

@owlislike 3 года назад

This witch definitely had the best box at the theater ^_^

@anieth 3 года назад

I think that Erte was the one who inspired so much of the change in the 1910's. I remember trying to copy his drawings into costumes as early as 16. I love this decade. This is amazing work--thanks for sharing!

@tammiewilson5185 2 года назад

Me... "How much would it cost to have this dress made for me." Followed by, "Down girl, your house needs new windows." I'm awestruck at the talent and skills you have!

@stevezytveld6585 3 года назад

Those two dresses belong in a museum together. One with an applied school of dress history / slash / conservation attached to it. There's enough history tied up into that one garment to be a dissertation piece. You must know some conservators and acquisition directors by now... Beautiful work. As always. And as always I'm barely keeping up. But I'm encouraged that I can kinda keep up with the procedural steps. As always, thanks. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown {by-the-by, I've got a Beginner FR entry under my full name, Cathy MacDonald-Zytveld, I'd love a fitting critique, because it's not quite there...}

@Rotten_Ralph 3 года назад

The whole ensemble together is just breathtaking. Magnificent. I aspire to half your skills.

@deana7310 2 года назад

Seeing the full length: Wow! That skirt really does have a lot going on! Impressive recreation!

@oldstuffbethtx8052 2 года назад

Can’t wait to see the blogs when you wear this outfit: Costume College? Dandy’s Cruise, Halloween?

@mcomeslast 5 месяцев назад

Oh I can’t wait until you and Abby start selling patterns!

@ReisigSeeds 3 года назад

I can’t get over how much difference the padding in the shoulder made. It really matters.

@adedow1333 3 года назад

Oh wow!!! It's absolutely gorgeous! 😍 It needs white half-length gloves and an umbrella or parasol with the perhaps the barest fringe at the edge. Well done indeed!!!

@JoannaLouise200 2 года назад

Such a stunning ensemble. To my mind, your gown is far superior construction/material/needlework wise than the original. I see Japanese kimono influences in the drape, overall design, wide sash & the Japanese character type motif in the waist embroidery. The dramatic collar being the exception of course! I recommend to everyone to slow the video speed down to 25 percent to get the full benefit of the garment detail during Nicole's elegant modelling.

@magdalenamarcinowicz-toman456 3 года назад

Yeah, I am not much of a sewer and in a totally different area career-wise, but I watch your videos religously, because they are absolutely amazing. Your delivery is so professional, calm, beautiful and elegant and you have so much knowledge... You are the best kind of youtube there is.

@therealpoppinfresh 3 года назад

I might be a little late to the party for this kind of feedback, but I wanted to let you know that, while the close-up shots are super cool, sometimes they're so close up that it's hard to tell which part of the garment you're working on. The voice over does a little bit to help with that, but especially with a garment like this, with a lot of moving parts, I couldn't quite tell which parts were being attached to which, and what embroidery was going where. I don't know if wide shots are possible, and I understand if your film space has limitations that don't allow for them, but they'd really help in explaining how things go together. I still love your videos, and I'll be watching them still in the future. Just figured you'd want to know what people wanna see more of. If they're possible, more wide shots please!

@ZenAgain24 3 года назад

The draping creates lines that make me think of Turkish style pants, or an Eastern influence of some kind. The dress is enchanting!

@misscatalina711 3 года назад

I’m so here for this!

@bonniebrown5094 3 года назад

I paused this video to immediately downloaded Golden Thread, thanks for the suggestion! The ensemble turned out amazing!!!

@robintheparttimesewer6798 3 года назад

I just looked and can’t find it... I guess I will have to add it to my list of books to find

@fiberterian 3 года назад

I did the same!

@Rozewolf 3 года назад

Such a gorgeous outfit! A touch of spidery lace to the hat as a veil would be a spooky edition to compliment the witchy look and add a bit of mystery. Beautiful, scary and delightful.

@kathryncoelho2249 3 года назад

STUNNING!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

@marikotrue3488 3 года назад

With accessory changes and the substitution of a lace cami I would wear that outfit to any party (once having parties becomes an option again). Full disclosure, I am a total child when it comes to a jacquard pattern (especially in a neutral color) grabbing at it (again when I was not in quarantine) whenever I discovered it, virtually or in actuality at a thrift shop. Beautiful result along with an honorable tribute to its ancestor!

@jmicha91 3 года назад

I adore fashion of 1914! Beautiful dress and you look great in it!

@ceciliaberghall649 3 года назад

What I think your videos make extremely clear is the importance of practical research. I am artist/researcher and the conversation about artistic research (thinking through making) is a conversation/debate. But, you make it clear. You can not know unless you do. This is thinking through making! Thank you, so cool :)

@kaizma88 3 года назад

All I can say is: Wow!!

@nicnaknoc 3 года назад

What a BEAUTIFUL dress and full ensemble WOW

@shannonc.5837 3 года назад

I would die for an outfit like this

@fieryhun 3 года назад

What an absolutely beautiful garment!

@tacuinummedievale8363 3 года назад

Your craftmanship is amazing, the whole ensemble is just beutiful. I love seeing reproductions made after original pieces! Great work!

@moxiebombshell 3 года назад

Squeeeee! Finally we can see all the cool details and the whole ensemble in all its asymmetrical, sculptural radness (in HD instead of on scratchy century-old film, to boot)! Also, I finally get an answer to my decades-old question "what would the women who lived in Frank Lloyd Wright's early Prairie Style houses wear?" which is something I wondered for YEARS after seeing that he was doing such crazy-progressive houses in the early 1900s. I just couldn't imagine them inhabited by women tightlaced in wasp-waisted or bustled gowns! This was amazing project from tip to toe. Nicole, you are a flipping beast of talents!!!!

@chasewighton4064 3 года назад

I love that you and Abby have been showing us these amazing antique garments and giving such a thorough run down of the construction techniques used to make them. I've never had the opportunity to look at the interiors of extant historical garments, so without your videos and recreations I would never have known just how chaotic and wild some of these pieces can be on the inside. I had always been told that the inside of your garment or the back of your embroidery should be as neat and perfectly finished as the face, that that's the mark of true skill and quality, so I just assumed that the interiors of these beautiful historical pieces would be just as beautiful as the outside. It's delightful seeing how chaotic they can actually be, and it makes a lot of sense, given how expensive textiles were, to reduce waste and use what you had on hand for piecing and reinforcement and structure. Why not re-use the muslin you'd previously used for a toile? I think this is an attitude that sewists would really benefit from re-adopting, I know I'm certainly going to try to become comfortable with piecing even though it's so contrary to how I had been raised to make clothes.

@guineverecassidy4855 3 года назад

You have outdone yourself with this beautiful recreation creation! Bravo!

@emilyrln Год назад

When I saw you in the reveal, I thought, "Oh, she's gonna curse me, but nothing too dangerous, just unpleasant, like my socks will always be _slightly_ damp" 😂 this look is fire!

@kyliejefferis5132 3 года назад

This is so nice, because it was hard to picture what the original garment would have looked like worn, but now we get to see it in motion on a body!

@ariannewrench1904 3 года назад

What a masterpiece Nicole. Your attention to detail is impeccable. Absolutely gorgeous!

@lynneeie5226 3 года назад

Stunning. And, the way the skirt moves... lovely. That is incredibly beautiful! Find myself wistfully wishing it could star in a short film, bit of walking... thinking misty London alleys, glowing gas lanterns... such a setting is a bit much to hope for, but... that skirt is a masterpiece of design in the way she moves and flows. Truly lovely. Well done!!!

@gloglos100 2 года назад

I liked the early dresses which were straight symmetrical.very much. Clarity.

@colemantrantham9264 2 года назад

I have a soft place in my heart for Goth girls. It must be the Masters in British Romanticism.

@reaganwright4112 3 года назад

My three year old daughter watched this with me, and when you did the big reveal, she reverently whispered, "It's Beautiful. I love that dress" as she watched you turn around. I have to agree. It turned out absolutely stunning!

@alessandromessina2801 2 года назад

And they all clapped

@stinapalo8059 3 года назад

All the wonderfull embroidery! So impressed with the whole dress. Well done you and thank you for sharing all your hard work with us!

@Ompe8 3 года назад

LOVE THE SKIRT!! Acturally, i love everything about this outfit, but that skirt is amazing...

@genebertram3833 3 года назад

I love the fashion from the 1910s. It's so wonderfully weird and inventive.

@gloglos100 2 года назад

Beautiful garment, love the detailing and the line. Having it built over muslin is lovely. Stiff soft, luscious and light.

@grizeldaxxx4568 3 года назад

D-I-V-I-N-E!!!!!!!! I remember seeing the Original Garment and swooned ..I would so wear this Beauty !! BRAVO!!!!! I adore the lining too ! As someone who does not sew I am in AWE!!! (especially as You even use bent pins! heehee) Blessings to You for sharing this with us mere Mortals xxx

@alicat2416 3 года назад

Such a beautiful piece! Absolutely obsessed with it!

@_historical_fashion_7567 3 месяца назад

God I LOVE it! I'm stitching a 1912 races dress from La Mode aux Courses while listening to all of your videos, and I'm enjoying every second of it ❤

@grammykcutter6374 3 года назад

An amazing dress and the shoes look absolutely perfect with it. The hat is the cherry on top. Beautiful!!!!

@frenetic_muse 3 года назад

Holy wow... what a stunning final result. Amazing work Nicole, your talents and skills are truly inspiring.

@minagica 3 года назад

Pouncing is used in traditional Transylvanian painted furniture making too!!! 😍😍😍

@queergarments8223 3 года назад

Full body chills at the reveal!

@rebeccacuthbertson1271 3 года назад

Incredible Nicole!! You totally just walked right out of a fashion plate. Beautiful job.

@AriallaMacAllister 3 года назад

This is the most fabulously extra ensemble and it suits you so well! I am deeply impressed by your skill and attention to detail. I'm so glad most of the lining in the original garment was missing so you could get so many bits of construction information, because your finished reproduction is *chef's kiss*.