Nice presentation. I have been tinting paste wax for some time now, but I find using shoe polish as the tint, works best for me... It adds a creaminess and smoother buffing qualities.
I had to repair 4 of these chairs (replica) for a friend. I think it is a beautiful chair but the joint of the leg and the horizontal foot is a bad idea. At least in the case that I restored, the wood broke and of course the joint failed. The glue was extremely hard. and the wood was very grainy and brittle. Probably several factors contributing to the faiilurer but I think the fixed cross grain joint was a major factor. I would love to hear a comment from a professional chair maker. Still a beautiful chair.
Great 👍 ... Just one question. If one is worried about regular wax filling in the wood grain on dark woods, why don't you use a wood pore filler like the old masters did in days of old ? It's pretty much the same freedom of chosing the color you like, but it's more permanent. That's the only thought I had .... Thanks !
I wonder if this wax is the same or similar enough to the wax that is used with chalk paint. If so, this would be a cheaper way to put that slightly satin finish on the chalk paint.
After melting I sit the wax can in a pan of ice with some water and continue to stir to prevent pigments from settling and it hardens quicker than freezer. Same with abrasive polish I make. I want to try carnival wax added to my abrasive polish
I wonder how the reds, blues and greens would tint the Johnson's Paste Wax? Would it help to cook out all of the solvents that are in the JPW in order to get optimum coloring when using reds, greens or blues? Thinking about picking up some of that Ronan Japan Colors in the above mentioned colors and seeing how well they might work with JPW. Your thoughts? Thanks for the informative video by the way, agw.:-)
I was not looking for this but thanks so much this is very handy to know, I have sadly found white bits in the nooks and crannies of painted furniture. The chair is gorgeous!
Would you ever advise a Cire Rempli wax finish to fill the open grain and give it a deeper luster or is this your go-to finish since occasional expensive trousers could pick up a possible transference of color pigment if not left to dry six weeks and being over waxed by a clear hardening wax?
Thank you for sharing. Just wondering why you did not just add some of the original stain from wood as well how would one make a putty stick using a similar technique with harder waxes for doing minor repairs?
