Makita's Best 1/2" Drill (Possibly), 6302H Review

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This has been the best pistol grip drill from Makita for 30 years, 550Rpm 6.5amps, recently replaced by the dp4000/dp4001/dp4002 which are not as heavy duty as this older unit that they stopped making in the 2010's.
This was a classic and had not the best ergonomics but really does have power and is more stout then the Milwaukee 0234 magnum hole shooter it was competing against.

Опубликовано:

20 июн 2020

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Комментарии : 26

@evilmachismo5055 4 года назад

That “whoa” part during the intro is great! You’re an honest guy and not a “fake” tool reviewer. That’s why I enjoy watching your videos. Keep up the good work. 👍

@mushygirlsiniran 4 года назад

Catus Maximus: this is from year 2000..., Me: so it new. Catus Maximus: so this is already 20 years old..., Me: eemmm, I'm old too.

@MrBucidart 4 года назад

Picked up a 5.00 yard sale 6301. Replaced the cord and she is a wrist breaker, great drill ..

@markadams7597 3 года назад

Great review. Ty.

@wirewaykingelectric4978 4 года назад

When you have a chance make a video of one of the old original Milwaukee hole hawgs in action, boring some holes through some clamped down scrap 2x4 😊 !

@dahut3614 4 года назад

We had a Makita from the '80s at work and the plastic broke where the handle was attached. I tried to remove the chuck by inserting a large allen key but couldn't get it to budge. I didn't want to break it by turning it the wrong way. A new housing part was available, and I was going to replace it, but didn't want to order it until the chuck was removed. This drill did severe duty reaming welds from inside 1" tubing, but still worked perfectly. It had so much torque that it would almost "rip your arm off" when the reamer got stuck! I'm looking forward to seeing how the chuck comes off. This one might be so tight that it may take an impact wrench!

@CatusMaximus 4 года назад

Yes Makita was one of the earliest to just torque to check on hard this drill has no Chuck lock screw instead there's two flats or you need a thin wrench to grab onto the spindle Behind the chuck. And sometimes they are super tight I have split open Park brand bicycle cone wrench is trying to get these checks off if you just use the Allen wrench method or an impact wrench without holding on to the spindle you risk blowing out the gears it's really frustrating they did this but now almost all cordless half inch drills and many corded versions are doing the same thing They figure Chuck's are so reliable and the center screw is additional expense and the hold on the spindle makes a little weaker so instead they just torque them on hard but makes them hard to remove. I should know that on this specific Makita drill there may be another option when I do the tear down it looks like there's a snap ring in a keyed gear on the back of the spindle so you may be able to remove the spindle from the drill and high early while leaving the Chuck attached and the front bearing would just stay in the drill gearbox. They need to put the spindle on the vice holding it by the flats and then use a large hex key and a cheater bar to loosen it

@dahut3614 4 года назад

@@CatusMaximus So, should be normal RH thread lefty-loosey? Never thought about gears when I considered the impact. Bicycle wrenches aren't usually very strong- I already destroyed one!

@dahut3614 4 года назад

This one actually does have a screw. I might try to make a wrench out of a tempered old file.

@redveinborneo4673 Год назад

So I need another drill for work to drill through steel up to 5/8" or so. I'd been using my beater cordless drill instead of the shop Milwaukee Magnum because I would rather ruin my crumby drill then deal with the wrist-breaking spin outs that occur occasionally with that Magnum. Is there a drill out there that can punch a hole that big without the risk of spinning out?

@CatusMaximus Год назад

It takes torque to drill through steel, no way to get around that. Although you could try the waltz new half inch cordless with the electronic protection that would provide enough power and supposedly prevented from binding and twisting the arm

@pappaclutch3266 4 года назад

Hey do a review on that dewalt, I’ve been wanting one!

@maxfedor1 3 года назад

That dewalt drill is actually a black & decker industrial copy. Dewalt only ever made radial arm saws. Black & decker bought dewalt in 1960 and continued making radial arm saws. In 1990’s black and decker rebranded their industrial line ( great tools) to a now famous yellow casing and name dewalt

@kenneychappuis1853 4 года назад

Just watching this makes my wrist hurts

@jman51 4 года назад

The DP series were actually made in Japan (including DP4000)

@CatusMaximus 4 года назад

Thank you for that correction I had a DP 4002 and thought it was amazing until I use a larger bit and the front gearbox shifted and the Gear start making terrible sounds it turns out that they don't have an alignment pin to prevent the gearbox and from slipping & twisting under the screws so the gears don't maintain their alignment it is a severe issue and it doesn't make sense because this plder drill did have a securing pin prevent the gearbox from moving around

@yiannis_b5504 6 месяцев назад

All DP400X and DP300X series drills are made in Japan, still in 202, and their best old-school drill is HP2010N, that Makita also makes it in Japan.

@DKNguyen3.1415 27 дней назад

What do you mean by still in 202?

@yiannis_b5504 27 дней назад

@@DKNguyen3.1415 today, 2024

@michaelthompson7570 4 года назад

Do you ever take a day off?

@JCTyler64 8 месяцев назад

Very powerful drill but poorly designed handle. It will come loose on you under heavy load and only has a couple preset adjustment on handle (you can't put it where you need it).

@toolmanmakita7120 4 года назад

Corded driil are strong because it broke someone's hand

@stinkycheese804 4 года назад

I don't see the use-case for this drill. If you don't have a side handle (and even rear handle), is it really optimal for a lot of torque, or are you really doing something lesser where you didn't need that much torque and would have rather had a lighter, and little smaller drill? Just sayin', for more torque today I'd reach for an impact driver or impact wrench, though even my old made in USA Craftsman electronic 1/2" drill, at only 5 amps and 600RPM, has plenty of torque for my needs. Once I even used it to compress automobile strut springs and the dual handles, side and rear, came in handy though at one point the rear handle cracked part and I used a torch to melt it at the crack and fasten it back together. Some day if that breaks again, I may make an improved sturdier handle out of steel and a thick dowel rod at the back, as I don't have much interest in buying the same handle again if it is prone to cracking and even more so if very old stock that got brittle already. One thing I like about it is that it has both a massive fan (made possible by larger case size) and large vents, so it stays cool enough that I imagine it could run all day long, and that opening even lets you clearly see the motor commutator and brushes. imgur.com/18vNisk c.searspartsdirect.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0090081.pdf

@CatusMaximus 4 года назад

you would not normally run this drill at it's limits... it is high powered for it's size and weight for many heavy duty drilling applications like running augers, large hole saws etc... because if you have to make a lot of holes you want a lighter and smaller tool with the necessary power to not stall out and slow you down. and so it does not overheat when mixing grout, mortar, thin-set, paint, etc... where low rpm is needed and a over-sized motor that won't burn up.

@DKNguyen3.1415 Месяц назад

I kind of wish they made lower torque drills with low RPM. The reason I use lower RPM drills even though I don't need the torque is because it gives you a a larger trigger pull for a given RPM which makes it easier to control. With lower torque, the entire drill could be lighter and smaller.