Well I guess not much has changed. Haven’t surfed there in decades. Still one of the best waves on the planet and a obstacle course. Learned there in the early 60s, I think it was worse then. Loose boards all over the place , no cords, always getting fin gashes in the head or board.
I really appreciate a wave that’s this good; it is the premier right hand point break in SoCal and with size rivals jewels like Jeffrey’s , Rincon and Trestles.
Thanks for the Video, Whats the vibe for out of towners here? Should I stay inside and wait to be invited up, or is it just dependent on the day? Coming down From Canada, and want to be repectful!!
@@c.a8837 Found the locals, kind and friendly. I only had a issue with one crazy tiger mom. I dont blame locals for being fustreted with annoying tourist, kooks (like me) be kookin.