Mamiya RB67 Video Manual 2 of 2: Operation, Mount Lens, Load Film, Flash Use, & Double Exposures

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Mamiya developed the RB 67, their second of their three major professional camera lines, after many years of successively improving their 6X6 professional TLR line. The RB67 became, quickly, the professional 6X7 format workhorse of choice for many photographers, especially those producing high volumes of work. The RB67 used in this video was previously owned by a portrait studio that churns out yearbook images, prom portraits, and has a retail location as well. Insofar as I know, that shop purchased this camera new and used it until I bought it five four or five years before I made this video. My RB67 has seen extensive use and, accounting for a single broken spring this past winter, has generally worked without issue the entire time I've had it. These are great and reliable cameras that continue to produce wonderful images when used by photographers who understand how to make the most of them.
This is video 2 of 2 and provides a detailed look at how to use he Mamiya RB67 and all the camera's functions.
Mamiya RB67 4K Video Review with Sample Photos
• Mamiya RB67 Medium For...
Mamiya RB67 Video Manual 1 of 2: Features, Use, Interface, Layout, Design, Function, & Camera Basics
• Mamiya RB67 Video Manu...
Video Index:
Skip the Intro: 0:15
Mounting and Removing Lenses from the Mamiya RB67: 0:43
Loading Film in the Mamiya RB67, Standard and Motor Drive Film Backs: 2:16
Mamiya RB67 Battery: 10:19
Flash use with the Mamiya RB67: 10:35
Mamiya RB67 Viewfinder: 12:54
Mamiya RB67 Exposure and Distance Scale: 15:08
Using Mamiya RB Lenses: 21:28
Using Mirror Lock Up on the Mamiya RB67: 23:03
Taking a Photo with the Mamiya RB67: 25:30
Double Exposures with the Mamiya RB67: 26:52
Re-cocking a Mamiya RB Lens to Mount it on the Camera: 29:18
Using the Time Shutter Speed on Mamiya RB Lenses: 31:31
Like this Video and Subscribe to the David Hancock Channel: 32:54
References:
www.cameramanua...
www.butkus.org/...
rb67.helluin.org/
camera-wiki.org...
www.reznitsky.i...
en.wikipedia.o...
www.photoethnog...
www.mamiyaleaf....
My Patreon Page:
/ davidhancock
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/ _david_hancock_
Gear I used for Filming and Editing:
Video Capture and Film Digitization- Pentax K-3 (www.ricoh-imagi...) or Pentax K-1 (www.ricoh-imagi...)
Secondary Capture- Sony CX330 (www.sony.com/el...)
Lens- Pentax 31mm FA Limited (www.pentaxforum...)
Off-camera Audio- Tascam DR-70D or Tascam DR-60D MKII and Tascam DR-05 (tascam.com/prod... or tascam.com/prod... and tascam.com/prod...)
Video Editing- Sony Movie Studio Platinum (www.vegascreati...)
Audio Processing- Adobe Soundbooth (www.adobe.com/...)
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30 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 443

@ernestslenss6405 5 лет назад

Thank You very much for the tutorial! Every other video is a hipster talking about their photoshoots and how heavy it is.

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Thank you. I do try to fill the void of detailed tutorials.

@Being_Joe 4 года назад

This made me laugh. True, there is a lot of misinformation out there.

@jonathanclarke5763 4 года назад

@@DavidHancock I would just like to know, do these mamiya lenses for the rb/z67 having an apeture ring or is the focusing all done with the bellows. Im told that the mamiya lenses for the rz67 pro ii lens do not have any moving glass parts. Is this the case for the rb67 pro sd C K/L lenses as well? I cant find any information at all on this anywhere. Its not clearly stated.

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

@@jonathanclarke5763 The lenses do have an aperture ring and focusing is controlled by the bellows, both are correct. Also, the RB series does not have a floating elements like the RZ cameras have.The RB pro lenses (C/K/L) will work on the RB67, but no RZ lenses will work. Just make sure that you buy an RB-mount lens not an RZ mount lens.

@jonathanclarke5763 4 года назад

@@DavidHancock Thank you. Just to be clear what is a floating element and what does that mean?

@mattgoff2722 3 года назад

so incredibly helpful. thank you so much. a question: why is the distance-gauge on the RB67 Pro-S so different from the gauge on the RB67-Pro?

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Thank you! The Pro S was released with or after some lenses that didn't exist when this came out, so they added those lenses to that camera's distance gauge.

@elevenseventeen6293 3 года назад

Second question. After you load your film and you got to #1 , do you need to have your shutter cocked before hand or cocked after it reaches one.

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Whenever. The lens shutter arming mechanism isn't linked to the film advance so they can be operated independently.

@elevenseventeen6293 3 года назад

Ok so this is actually what is happening right now, I am at one and my shutter was cocked already. I’m I good to go for my first shot?

@elevenseventeen6293 3 года назад

@@DavidHancock I think I understood your answer now!

@sharonleibel 5 лет назад

Finally someone gives a good explanation on the graphical compensation scale for the RB and RZ. It drove me nuts!

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

It's really confusing. A year ago I could not have explained how to use it.

@JimSollows 5 лет назад

This is the BEST RB67 video I’ve seen .. and as a new RB67 owner I’ve seen a lot! Unfortunately the link to video 1 is broken? I would love to see that video!!

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Thank you and I'll fix it tonight when I get to a computer. You can check out my channel videos on the meantime and video 1 should be at the top.

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Oh interesting. Video 1 didn't go live. I must have set the schedule date to the wrong time. I can't fix that from my phone. Thank you I'll get in that shortly.

@jamesallen5591 4 года назад

Great video. I just bought my first RB67 today, and am just waiting for it to arrive. This is very educational for me.

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

Thank you!

@SirPreston913 4 года назад

Same here, hope it's everything you were expecting!

@ThaShooterFiles 2 месяца назад

This was the greatest education video for how to use something I’ve ever seen. Seriously thank you

@DavidHancock 2 месяца назад

Thank you!

@andyvan5692 Год назад

m setting is a 60 MS delay, before the shutter is triggered, aka advanced, so that the cheMicals can reach the required white balance, as they 'warm up' during this time; the Xenon bulbs (effectively fluorescent tubes- just a different gas inside), however get to WB instantly, so no need for this time delay.

@DavidHancock Год назад

Thank you!

@larrywilliams5708 2 года назад

Thanks for in depth review of the RB. I recently purchased a ProSD with a 90mm 3.5 and love it. I would like to add a 65mm to my kit but wondering if the K/L version is worth the extra price optically compared to the Sekor C? Your thoughts are appreciated.

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Thank you! I like the C lenses. I've not used the K/L lenses but am told they can be too sharp. I think the question ultimately comes down to use and cost-benefit analysis. Is the added cost worth the money for the way you'll use the photos? If so, go for it. If not, the C lenses are excellent.

@jcaldrey1039 5 лет назад

Outstanding video, the two part series is like a 6 in 2 videos... super clean and helpful. Congratulations and thanks.

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Thank you!

@aristoioannidis7490 5 лет назад

Thanks David. I have a much better understanding of the depth of field and exposure settings using the RB67 lenses. Your 2 videos are a great reference point and no doubt will be used by many users, especially the newbies. Thanks again for taking the time to create this series.

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Thank you!

@TheMrMKultra 5 лет назад

Hey David, thank you for making this series! It's really helpful. I'm glad I subscribed to your channel many months ago

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Thank you and I'm glad you subscribers, too!

@dcchong8102 5 лет назад

Thanks for putting in all the effort to make such informative video, thank you so much.

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Thank you!

@Suburude 3 года назад

Awesome video 🤩

@AgnostosGnostos 5 лет назад

With sunny f/16 the shutter speed will be the reciprocal value of the ISO. Snow and sand reflect the sun rays and can be blinding with sunny weather. The amount of light that reaches the sensor or film is higher than a typical area with sunny weather. In that case with f/22, the shutter speed will be the reciprocal value of the ISO. With shady f/8 rule the shutter speed will be the reciprocal value of the ISO too. However what is shady or overcast weather isn't very specific. Another rule is the shooting of moon with Looney f/11 rule. The shutter speed will be the reciprocal value of the ISO. Finally in the case of a sunny day is easy to change apertures and predict the proper shutter speed. With f/16 the shutter speed will be the reciprocal value of that ISO. With f/11 the shutter speed should be one stop faster of the reciprocal value of ISO. With f/8 the shutter speed two stops faster of the reciprocal value of ISO. For example with fixed ISO 100 during a sunny day. f/16 and 1/100th sec f/11 and 1/200th sec f/8 and 1/400th sec The manual selection of shutter speed isn't so difficult after all and with the use of hyperfocal distance or zone focusing the manual mode is easy with film or digital cameras. I use manual focus lenses with mirrorless cameras and this rules and methods are very helpful. A good convenient way for film cameras without photometer is to use an iPhone app as a light meter.

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Thank you!

@myfavoritethings1967 3 года назад

Hey, I can’t rotate my focus ring all the time, sometimes it locks up. Any suggestions ??! thanks

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

I'd run that past the Fix Old Cameras channel. He knows more about Mamiyas than anyone on RU-vid and repaired the one in this video. He'll know if it's an easy fix.

@atl_mx5 Год назад

thanks for this, very useful. just got my first rb67. quick question, my dark slide won't stay in, it always protrudes a couple mm. any easy fix for that?

@DavidHancock Год назад

Does the dark slide fully cover the negative when the film back is removed?

@atl_mx5 Год назад

@@DavidHancock yep! When the film back is removed, it’s locked and covers the whole back. When I have it attached the dark slide doesn’t want to stay in, it’s slips out a couple millimeters. 🤷‍♂️

@atl_mx5 Год назад

@@DavidHancock I found the issue. The tiny screws holding the plate that sandwiches the dark slide in the film back were loose

@TimDobbs 4 года назад

Excellent pair of videos ... I recently bought an RB67 and this info is far easier to understand than just reading the manual ... thank you :-)

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

Thank you!

@shinichihayakawa7619 4 года назад

19:06 To read exposure compensation values, you need to ignore the sloping lines altogether and focus on the row of bricks for your lens' focal length. So in this case, you can find the correct exposure compensation value of +0.5 (but close to +1) by checking the row #3 for 180mm.

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

That's not exactly correct. The sloping lines are used to make it easier to identify which exposure compensation amount to use. It is correct that the brick identify the amount of compensation, yes.

@shinichihayakawa7619 4 года назад

@@DavidHancock Please see pages 24 and 25 (actual paper pages) of Mamiya RB67 Instructions here: www.cameramanuals.org/mamiya_pdf/mamiya_rb67_professional.pdf

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

So the manual seems to agree with my description, especially the photo on the left, which shows a cross-reference of the distance scale (curved line) with the subway tile bricks to identify the needed compensation.

@shinichihayakawa7619 4 года назад

@@DavidHancock Hi David, I'm not sure what you mean by "a coss-reference". Only one curved line is highlighted in red in this photo, and there is NO mention of exposure compensation in this section titled "Distance Scale". Is there any chance you are confusing "distance graduation" with the subway tile bricks (=exposure compensation scale)? "Distance graduation"--as you can see on p.6--is the vertical scale in meter and feet affixed to the front end of the camera's main body. It's not the bricks. Also, supposing your description is correct, when the scale shows the pattern shown in the 2nd photo on p.24, you cannot determine the compensation value because the slope for 127mm lens is truncated before it reaches the distance graduation!

@tirsogonzalez199 5 лет назад

Perfect video, your relay know your RB. Great

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Thank you!

@monodistortion Месяц назад

Wow, you might want to post a correction about the bellows factor exposure compensation. The way you're reading the chart is completely wrong.

@DavidHancock Месяц назад

You have the floor explain what I did wrong. I'll help you out; the part of the script about those scales was transcribed verbatim from the manual and then explained in different terms than the manual and there are a few other comments on this video where people have questioned this and I've already explained why the content in this video is accurate.

@alanread6596 5 лет назад

Another exellent video very informative like the first one

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Thank you!

@andyvan5692 2 года назад

one CAUTION: the K\L lenses disengauge the T function (close the shutter) by pressing the B button on the right side of the lens, looking in shooting direction!- NOT by the "lever" method, also the manual says to do it this way, and M_up is simmilar, but the collar is turned by the cable release (once screwed all the way in), to ARM this mode, RED line showing, and one MUST turn in REVERSE to DIS-ARM this mode, otherwise the shutter is DISABLED, same if the T mode is used, and the shutter is NOT closed, to enable it to be re-cocked!!

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Thank you!

@fredmckellar3017 11 месяцев назад

Most excellent info/presentation, thanks!!! Have you made one on through and through cleaning and or restoration, seals etc.? (I’m looking through your channel for them)😀

@DavidHancock 11 месяцев назад

Thank you! I do have a video uploaded on replacing light seals with yarn (demonstrated on a 35mm SLR) and I did do that repair on this camera. It's a lot more work and time to clean it (I used more than 100 cotton swabs when I cleaned mine) but the process is basically the same.

@andyvan5692 2 года назад

your magasine is malfunctioning!, there is a "safety" interlock, which prevents double exposures by accident ( unless the switch below the winder shows the RED dot) this prevents shutter release until film wind is done (the two pins protruding from the camera back)- the other pin is the "darkslide safety". the red dot is ALSO important, as this is how you fire the shutter without film in the back, for testing purposes, without wasting a frame, saves taking the back off, as you have to do with a Hasselblad 500/500C\M V series camera ( disengauges the winding gears).

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Thank you!

@iqbalpribadi4112 4 года назад

Hi David, great video as always! I wonder which system would you recommend for landscape photography, The RB or RZ considering the lens option? And which is better in term of lens quality between mamiya and pentax 6x7? Thank you

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

Thank you! For RB vs. RZ, six one way, half-dozen the other. The RZ lenses are newer and a case could be made that they have better designs and optics. However, I'm told the RZ cameras are not as reliable (though I've never used one can can't say that from direct experience.) I am solidly in the Pentax system because I have a boatload of lenses for it, but were I just starting out I might opt for the RB67 instead because I like swappable film backs. Both systems have fantastic lenses, so it comes down to whether you prefer standard SLR interface (Pentax) or Bronica/Hassy interface (Mamiya.)

@Nat.ImagesLarge.F.Photographer 4 года назад

Hello David,please help:I purchased a sekor c50mm f4.5 and I can't mount it on RB67 Pro S, what is the adapter that Mamiya says that if it needs to be removed in order to mount it on RB 67 Pro s?

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

Just saw your other comment. I'm glad you found the part!

@franzscaramelli2651 5 лет назад

Thank you. Best camera video I have seen.

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Thank you!

@J.ortegadesign 3 года назад

Thank you so much for this video!

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Thank you!

@abbasashourlou888 2 года назад

I´ve watched few videos about rb but these videos are gold and quite helpful, a question:i don’t have a lightmeter and i use mobile program for calculating,on your opinion sunny 16 is more better than application?

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Thank you! It depends on the app you use. Some are great others not, and that varies by your phone. I'd test its readings against another camera if you have one and if it's accurate in a few settings, go with the app.

@edinburghtumuran916 3 года назад

Just got my Mamiya RB67. That tutorial is wonderful! Keep it coming! But I have a query. In multi-exposure, is there a need to move the lever beside the cocking lever of the film for the red dot to be exposed before the film can be exposed twice? Thanks in advannce!

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Thank you! For double exposures, don't advance the film, simply ignore the red dot, re-arm the shutter on the camera, and fire away. Advance once you're done with the multiple-exposure image.

@tedtuel 2 года назад

Hello-great video! My motor drive doesn’t advance when I use the shutter. I have to hit a switch on the back and then it advances. Am I doing something wrong? It is not set to MULTI. Thanks

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Hmm. I feel like there's a switch on the back for that, but I sold my RB67 kit about a year ago and I don't recall for sure.

@sailinghooponopono2457 Год назад

Very good and intructive video. Just noe minor thing; you do not nede a cabel release for the mirror lockup, you just nede noe for the shutter. Theoreticly if you have everything set, focused and composed, you can release the mirror with your finger on the normal shutter release button. You don't release the shutter until using cable release on the lens...

@DavidHancock Год назад

Thank you!

@andyvan5692 Год назад

thankyou for a tutorial on the motorised back, only one I have found, so great to see one (as not as common as the 645 back, or the standard pro\pro-s backs).

@DavidHancock Год назад

Thank you! Yeah, the motor back is uncommon.

@alzathoth 3 года назад

so when using the time exposure, the shutter stays open until you recock it. but won't you get camera shake when you recock the lever? thank you so much for this video. i have been considering the RB for many years for my new jump to medium format.

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

I'm trying to recall. I thought there was a way to close it without rearming the shutter. You can always put the lens cap back on before ending the time exposure, too.

@davidkristians 3 года назад

i just bought my first rb67 a few days ago. i put my kodak film in it, and the film shutter got stuck. like it can not shutter/roll the film. i must click the multi expose button until the white tag change to red. then i can shutter/roll the film. i think thats a multi expose button. can you help me with this problem? 😢🙏

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Yeah, I think that's normal with some of the film backs. That happens with one of mine and it's the oldest of my film backs. I think with the Pro S backs, that was changed. So hitting that button is just part of my process when I use that one older film back.

@romankoblov7001 4 года назад

Does it make a difference in the order if you cock the shutter and then advance the film after pressing the shutter? Just got my RB67 pro SD and notice when the lens cap is on and I look through the viewfinder I can see my reflection, is that a normal position for the mirror? Also noticed some dust / dirt specs on the viewfinder can that be easily cleaned? Thanks for your helpful video

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

It shouldn't, no. Insofar as I know, you could advance the film and then cock the shutter or vice-versa.

@susanolivera5276 3 года назад

Hello! My first medium format camera, it arrived today but the shooter jammed :( how can I make it work again?

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Check with the Fix Old Cameras channel. He knows more about Maniya cameras than anyone on RU-vid.

@windyadiyatna7912 4 года назад

Hi David, i got a serious problem. The back of the RB got some malfunction. I shoot twice and my film counter says 2 with the red flag, i advance the lever and feel the film roll has sliding in the back but the counter stick on number 2 with the red flag and i can’t press the shutter because there’s red flag on the counter, so i advance the lever again and again but nothing change, and then finally the film counter turns to number 3 but it also the fact its the last film roll. Have u any suggestion?

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

Hmm. That's curious. I'm not sure what would cause that. The Fix Old Cameras Channel might know. He knows more about Mamiyas than anyone on RU-vid.

@c0mputerface377 4 года назад

I recently purchased an RB that did not come with a dark slide. Is the process of taking a picture different without it? or can I still cock the shutter, take a picture, and then advance the film without the film being exposed unnecessarily inside?

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

The dark slide isn't required, but it does mean that you can't remove the film back between shots to put a different one on.

@j-s-m-photographymc5317 3 года назад

Great Tutorial I’ve just switched to medium format I have a life changing injury to my right arm so it’s trying ti find a camera that works for me so I fingered I would give these old girls ago . Thanks once again .

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Thank you! These are heavy and because of the focus knob on the left might be a good option for you. Also you really do NEED a tripod with these so that may be a really good help for you. A lot of people give up on things they like after a major life-changing event. I'm glad to hear you're keeping with something you love.

@shotbytobey1812 4 года назад

Help, my rb67 has been acting weird recently. The leaf shutters won’t trigger if I set it to 1/60 or higher when the lens is on the camera. However, when I take the lens off the camera and trigger the shutter on the lens, all speeds trigger and seem accurate

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

The Fix Old Cameras channel can answer that better than I. They know Mamiya cameras better than anyone in RU-vid.

@sailinghooponopono2457 Год назад

Remember also if you have a lens with floating front elements, you need to adjust focus on front part of the lens, according to initial focus readout on the side.

@DavidHancock Год назад

Thank you!

@tylomlamla6230 2 года назад

My first question is can you set the ISO on this camera? And if you leave the lens on and store your camera will it ruin the springs?

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

For the ISO, as shown in this video, no. The camera does not have a light meter in it. One of the prisms does, and on that prism you would set the ISO. For the shutter, I forget the exact guidance in this video, but it came from the manual, so I'd go with that.

@D_L_J_83 3 года назад

Thank you! Is there such a motorised 645 back for the RB67 as well?

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Not to my knowledge, but there are a lot of accessories for these that I'm not familiar with.

@AngeloHinojosa 3 года назад

So if I use a light meter to determine the settings, I will have still to adjust the exposure manually myself depending on my focus? Regardless of what the light meter measured?

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Correct, if the scale indicates it.

@ISKAREI 3 года назад

Thanks Ive learned sth new about the camera but one question still remains just recently i have noticed that one litte "lever" on my lens and when I push it the aperature closes to my setting and when i let go it opens up all the way again no matter the setting. Do i have to keep that lever pulled when i want to shoot at f16 for example or is that triggered when you take the picture.

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Thank you! That lever is the depth of field preview. You would use it to get an idea of the DoF when the image is taken. Do not hold it down during exposure as there's no need to. I don't know if it messes with the mechanism or not, but the camera will stop-down properly without that lever being pushed.

@karmatopden3417 11 месяцев назад

Thank you so much, I finally u distant the focusing scale and compensating!

@DavidHancock 11 месяцев назад

Nice!

@Feraltog 3 года назад

So for MLU. After you fire the initial shutter. When you fire the leaf shutter you just hold it down for the duration of your shot then release. Or do you fire the main shutter again to end the exposure?

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

With MLU you trigger the camera's mirror and then the shutter. If you're shooting an exposure with a fixed time the lens does it automatically. If you're in bulb then you hold down the cable release button or lock it down for the exposure duration.

@perelandrauk 5 лет назад

David, when I'm advancing the film in the standard back, occasionally it will go too far and I have to use the little lever in the middle/top of the back to return the winding lever. Then to take a photo I have to enable multiexposure. I've got two backs and it happens to both of them and I was wondering if you've got any ideas as to why its occuring? Thanks

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

That's curious. I don't know what's going on but I know who will. The Fix Old Cameras channel knows more about Mamiya cameras than anyone. Shoot them a message and I suspect they can explain it.

@za.jeanpaul 3 года назад

Try not advancing the lever all the way. The advance lever has the ability to advance in micro increments, so stop advancing once number is dead centre in window.

@jnrickards 4 года назад

You say that this camera isn't weather sealed but what about winter shooting, in dry, not snowy or rainy conditions, just cold.

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

That's fine but when I did that I found that after an hour the leaf shutters started lagging, the timing slowed down, and then the camera broke. The cold proved to be too much for an old spring in the camera.

@giuseppecrescitelli4505 13 дней назад

Great David! Tank you. 🤗📸🍀✌️

@DavidHancock 13 дней назад

Thank you!

@LPfilmsss 3 года назад

Can someone explain mirror lock up for me? I wanna do nighttime long exposures and dont really feel safe with the feature yet

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

I forget the exact order of operations on that, but the best advice I can give you is to practice without a film back on the camera. That way you can see what's going on as you use the MLU dungeon and get used to the mechanics of it.

@marksummers5504 5 лет назад

Great job as usual! I’m looking forward to seeing you review the RZ67 (Pro i & ii) at some point.

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Thank you! They're on the list for the batch after the ones I'm currently working on. (Right now I'm early in a batch of about 30 cameras, so it will be a while.)

@paultaylorphotography9499 3 года назад

Outstanding info mate wish I’d watched this before diving in 😂thanks loads 📷❤️📷

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Thank you!

@paultaylorphotography9499 3 года назад

@@DavidHancock my pleasure mate

@chushiben 3 года назад

Hi can the motorised back be used in different versions of the rb67?

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

I believe so.

@walterarroyo5220 2 года назад

Please question about the lens hood is a screw on 77mm good? Or does it have to be a slip on ?

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Screw-on, but I think that different lenses have different thread sizes in this system, but if your lens is a 77mm thread then that's what you need.

@ryandellamico9126 5 месяцев назад

Worth noting the lens will not come off if the shutter isn’t cocked

@DavidHancock 5 месяцев назад

Thank you!

@Usrthsbcufeh 3 года назад

is the RB67 PRO S compatible with the motorised back or is it only compatible with the RB67 PRO SD cause i read that only the PRO SD can use 6 X 8 backs

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

I believe 6x8 backs are only compatible with the SD. I use a motorized 6x7 back on my Pro S all the time, though.

@Usrthsbcufeh 3 года назад

@@DavidHancock this manual i found says it’s for the pro s as well and i’m so confused. It’s really hard to find a 6x7 power drive in melbourne, australia. mamiya.org/content/RB_6x8_Power_back.pdf

@carlyleellis6984 2 года назад

is it necessary to take the film back off the camera to change the film?

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Nope, just easier.

@elevenseventeen6293 3 года назад

I have a 220/120 film that came with when I purchase , the other one is just a normal 120 film back , Anything I should know about this type of film back? I’ve been hesitant to use?

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

If it takes both 220 and 120 then go for it. If it takes 220 only then it won't work with 120 film. The focal plane on 220 is the width of the 120 backing paper different and that's enough to throw off focus. Also, the frame counter won't count correctly.

@elevenseventeen6293 3 года назад

@@DavidHancock yes it’s a 220/120. I will deft give it a try 😎

@champ222 2 года назад

i have shot all 10 shots but roll is on S and will not freely advance like in the video

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

So it advanced ten frames but didn't count upward?

@chrisallen5548 2 года назад

Thanks, handy tips - shame you don't have any in stock.

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Thank you! Yeah, I just sold the one in this video a few weeks ago, too.

@sonygoup 3 года назад

idk if anyone said this but its doesn't auto detect. you gotta rotate the press plate

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Thank you.

@rileyplays8188 5 лет назад

Thank you so much for this video - it's super informative! Totally gave me a much better grasp of the inner-workings of my camera. I've shot a couple rolls through my RB67 - and I have no problem using light meters or the sunny 16 rule - and I follow the photo, re-arm shutter, advance film steps, but the last roll I got back was all blank but one photo - and the previous one before that I only got three exposures from it. In my most recent roll, the photo that turned out - seconds after that photo I had snapped off another one before the lighting/conditions/anything changed, I didn't have to change any settings, but that photo that I remember taking came out blank on the roll. Is it something to do with how I am advancing the film, or...? My back has the little release lever underneath the advance film cock that I need to push to the left in order to let me advance the film - and I only have to do that when I have film loaded. When I'm going through the motions without film in there, I can advance the film as much as I'd like without pushing the release lever to the side. Can anyone shed some light on what the ffff I'm doing wrong haha, thanks guys!

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Check your lens shutter as that's the most likely culprit. On my 90mm lens, it works if I hold the camera parallel to the ground when I arm it. BUT, if I hold the camera with the lens toward the sky when I arm the lens, the lens shutter will not fire. So you have a second lens that you can use for a roll or two to see if they come out? You can also test fire the lens a number of times with the film back off and look through the lens to see if you can see light through it when the shutter is fired. Keep the lens wide open for that test.

@rileyplays8188 5 лет назад

@@DavidHancock You are a blessing! I don't have a second lens to test out - but your comment made me fiddle a little bit more than I had previously - I didn't really think it could be the lens that was the problem! At fast shutter speeds I hadn't taken any notice at all to the lack of "buzz" but when I try and take a one second exposure - there is huuuge delay between going through the motions up until firing the shutter, and then when the shutter finally opens to let the light in. It's like a solid... twenty second delay. Basically, enough delay to the point that when I've been shooting I've probably already put the lens cap back on. I've seen a few repair videos in which dirt and grease has caused a similar problem and they've had like... two second delays, so I wonder how dirty the threads in my lens are! haha, I'll definitely take it to a shop to get it repaired, or pick up a couple new lenses! Thank you so much for helping me pinpoint (i hope!) the problem!

@rileyplays8188 4 года назад

@@AppleGameification yoooo k! I ended up taking it to a guy at a camera shop who pretty much confirmed our suspicions here - it ended up being a pretty sticky lens on the inside and it was causing a delay in the shutter pretty much every time! I bought a new lens (on ebay again, haha oops) and swapped that out and it worked a treat, no more delayed photos! I started to get some light leaks in some of my photos, I think the light seals on the 120 back it came with were pretty worn - but I also just bought a new back to replace after I finish the roll I already loaded in... But for how cheap I got the camera on ebay, and even then despite the replacements, its still working out cheaper than had I bought it from a shop or something! And I'm sure you'll have a couple less problems than mine haha!!!

@aaronjackson998 Год назад

How do I set the ISO? Do I just go based on the rolls for the iso?

@DavidHancock Год назад

Using the box speed on the film is a good starting point. Unless you have a metered prism, there's no place to set the ISO and have the camera perform any differently. Your best bet is to use a light meter app and then dial in the settings the app gives you.

@josefinaerosa7356 3 года назад

Great video! I have a question. If I have the dark slide on the camera, even thought I trigger my shutter I wont be taking a photo, right? I will only waste my film and take a photo just if I take the dark slide off.?

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Thank you and correct, but I don't think that the shutter will fire if the dark slide is in place.

@josefinaerosa7356 3 года назад

@@DavidHancock Thanks!!

@andyvan5692 2 года назад

good video, one other reason for loading the reel that way, like this camera, the Linhof 56x72 magasines for their tecknika cameras uses the numbering system backwards, ie you see the numbering from the non-lens side, an oval slot cut out of the supporting surface that makes up the pressure plate face on the other side, this shows the 'counter', it isn't one though, just a "tapemeasure" on the film backing paper itself, showing position in real time of where the film is.

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Thank you! I didn't know that about the Linhof magazines.

@andyvan5692 2 года назад

@@DavidHancock yes, and early Hasselblads were the same too, the one with the asa disk on the back, you lift up the disk, and there is a 'red window' sight glass for doing this same thing, to see the paper numbering.

@markglore7196 2 года назад

Very informative! Thank you!

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Thank you, Mark!

@mamiyapress 5 лет назад

Thanks again David for your continued excellent series on film cameras and film. I have just one question that I am unclear on. When using the two cable release system, do I not lock up the mirror first on the lens, then trip the shutter on the body, it looks the opposite in the video, thanks in advance.

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Thank you! When you trigger the camera release, the lens leaf shutter closes before the mirror pops up. Then the release on the lens opens and closes the lens shutter.

@mamiyapress 5 лет назад

@@DavidHancock Got it, thanks.

@ZommBleed 5 лет назад

mamiyapress He said it backwards. At least he didn't drop this camera or expensive, delicate lens.

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Not this time.

@rogerwalker3201 Год назад

You didn’t explain how set-up the film back when shooting longer than 1/8 of a second.

@DavidHancock Год назад

I don't recall doing anything differently than usual when I was using this camera.

@rogerwalker3201 Год назад

@@DavidHancock Sorry for taking so long to answer. While reading the information manual for the RB 67 battery operated film back, it stated having the lever pointed at the “square “ for times between 1/8 of a second - to- 1/400 of a second. The lever should point at “LT”(Long Time) for 1/4 of a second - to - 1 second. For long exposures of more than a second (T or B), the lever should point at “T/M UP”(Time Mirror Up). And multiple exposure would be set to the “Square or LT”. Well, you said using this camera might be complicated. You just weren’t aware of all of the machinations involved in running this beast. I’m “new”, to having one. I just couldn’t compel myself to just stick with 35mm, so I look at all of the videos seeking to find out what else is lurking under my nose in using this beautiful beast with confidence. I have to say, trying to shoot my first roll of film was a horror show. After settling down and reading the instructions thoroughly, my second roll was better. I really enjoyed looking at your series, but I had to throw in my “two cents”. Hopefully, it is helpful. Happy Shooting!!!

@silekiernanphotography 2 года назад

Thank you David! All the detail is much appreciated, very helpful. Who did you use to repair your camera?

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Thank you, Sile! I sent it to Phototronic in Topeka, Kansas.

@silekiernanphotography 2 года назад

@@DavidHancock Thank you David! I have an RZ67 and you have been a great help!

@MsAndrewpearson 5 лет назад

Awesome videos! Thank You so much !!!

@DavidHancock 5 лет назад

Thank you!

@jmm117kgb 3 года назад

Weird, my Mamiya RB67 doesnt have the same exact exposure compensation graph on the side. It tells me to compensate way less than the one you got on your camera.

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Is it a later model like a Pro S or RZ?

@jmm117kgb 3 года назад

@@DavidHancock Looks like it's a pro S

@gabrysgabriukas 3 года назад

Thank you for the video . But still I am not sure how to use time mode for long exposures. when you cock the shutter it will close shutter but still you will shake the camera by hand. Cable is worthless in time mode for closing. I really would like bulb mode instead of time.

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Time mode is the same as bulb mode, but with time you can walk away from the camera and you don't need a locking cable to do that. With time, use it like bulb but with two button presses instead of one long one, which is where the cable comes in handy because you can use that to absorb the shock of triggering the shutter. Using two cables you can first trigger the mirror inside the camera and then wait for some seconds until the camera stops shaking before triggering the second cable to open the leaf shutter.

@gabrysgabriukas 3 года назад

@@DavidHancock I tried already time mode with two cables and mirror lock up. Still when I want to close leaf shutter I can't. I press cable (which is conected to the lens) second time and it does not close leaf shutter. Maybe its some problem inside the lens mechanics. Also what I found in the internet " So, unfortunately, the only way to close the shutter in T mode is to either turn the shutter speed ring, or by advancing the cocking lever on the side of the body. This is regardless of whether you are or are not using two cable releases. If you're afraid of moving the camera doing this, I recommend covering the lens with a lens cap to prevent any motion blur from you touching the camera."

@bschoon12 4 года назад

Have been looking for the perfect tutorial for YEARS for my Mamiya. Thank you David for taking the time to break it down for us!

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

Thank you!

@Louis-te7th 4 года назад

I don't get why you want 2 cable releases? I mean yeah it may be better but it sounds like you really NEED two of them which is not the case. You could easily flip the mirror up by hand and then wait a few secs and fire the lens with a cable release.

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

I believe that you CAN trigger the mirror manually; however, the second cable release is used to provide a less-shake-prone result because triggering the mirror with the cable will introduce less shake to the camera and tripod than would triggering it manually.

@Louis-te7th 4 года назад

David Hancock Yeah I know but your camera won't shake forever. So just trigger the mirror wait 2 sec and then fire the shutter with a cable release.

@andrewlawrence1 2 года назад

I was recently gifted this camera and your 2 videos answered just about every question that I had. thank you for making a to the point tutorial.

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Thank you!

@richardcollins586 4 года назад

Hi David, thanks for these informative videos. I have a Pro SD body and the Focusing steps are: 50, 65, 75, 90, 110, 127, 140, 150, 180, 210, 250, 360. Do you know why I have 12 steps and you have 7 steps? Thanks

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

Thank you, Richard. I'm going to guess that you have more steps solely because the SD was a newer camera made when more lenses had been released.

@vasiliscaravitis1706 3 года назад

Thanks very much, David for the presentation. I have the same camera (RB67 Professional) with 220 and 120 backs. The 220 back properly displays a red dot when the shot is taken but the 120 back does not; so I need to do guesswork as regards the exposure status of each frame. Would you think that this is something I could fix myself if I dismantle the back upper part? Also, I'd like to know whether 120 backs from other RB67 versions are compatible with mine. I would appreciate you response.

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Thank you! I have a 120 back with that fault and have not bothered to fix it. What I did was get into a routine of advancing as soon as the photo is taken unless I have a reason not to, then I don't worry about the frames overlapping. As for the repair, check with the Fix Old Cameras channel. He knows more about Mamiyas than anyone on RU-vid having been a Mamiya repair tech for many, many years.

@reddevil211287 4 года назад

Who else dances to the intro music before every David Hancock video? :D

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

:D I do.

@reddevil211287 4 года назад

David Hancock ❤️😃

@joshdiditt 3 года назад

What mount lenses does this accept?

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

The RB67 lenses only.

@jimcook3882 2 года назад

David, a super XLNT video on the RB. Mine is arriving any minute from Japan and I now have confidence in getting the BEAST working properly. Thanks again!!

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Nice and thank you!

@matttwomey3326 4 года назад

Hi David, I have a RB 67 which I purchased several years ago, in a moment of alcoholic bliss which I have never used. I have the time now and I am looking forward to having a go. I have ordered a full set of seals and I am awaiting delivery. I am a seasoned Mamiya TLR user delivering excellent results for a number of years. I absolutely love the TLR but I want a bit more. Problem: The back of the RB is set in Portrait Mode and will not transfer to Landscape Mode. What can I do? Thanks, Kind Regards, Matt Twomey.

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

Hmm. Curious. Is the rotation lock release depressing or stuck?

@philmtx3fr Год назад

Wonderful video David. I learnt all I needed to use my « new » RB67 in 30mins and thx for that. I am eager to test it on the field now, but what a big camera !!!

@DavidHancock Год назад

Thank you! These are super capable cameras. Have fun!

@urionandon 3 года назад

amazing explanations

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Thank you!

@luissalazar2021 3 года назад

Hey David, do you know where to get Polaroid films for the mamiya rb67 please, I do have the original back. I love this camera and love my big prints.

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

I do not, unfortunately.

@sarajcory7425 2 года назад

Thank you for your detailed instruction videos I have a new to me RB 67 and I thought something was wrong with the film carriage when it stopped advancing at 10 pictures; duh. 🤣. Reloaded and often running again

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Thank you and lol.

@torben_sc 3 года назад

Just got my Mamiya today and my first step was watching your both Videos. They are fantastic, thank you very much! I hope it will keep my Mamiya and many more alive longer. Just one last bigger question for storing the camera. When you disarm your camera body and lens. Do you protect the camera body which is now open or do you just keep it likes this, because there isn't much to get damaged? And when you protect it, like a digital camera also needs to, how do you do it?

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Thank you! If you have only one lens, then just trip the camera's shutter before storing and leave the lens on. If you have two lenses then trip the one that's not on the camera's body and repeat the process earlier for the camera and lens. That's the easiest way. That said if you need to store them separately for space then there are lens front and rear caps that you can get. they're not new so they tend to be expensive, however.

@nandoshinken 6 месяцев назад

So much things i didn't knew ! These cameras are so old and sometimes tricky when we buy them, that we already have to make a lot of cleaning, changing lightseals, repairing bellows, etc... so thank you so much for that huge review of tips and appropriate use !

@DavidHancock 6 месяцев назад

Thank you!

@glennhunt4945 2 года назад

I would like to add an update to this great video. Many digital photographers are moving to use film and this video shows how to use one of the best cameras available, a medium format camera, the Mamiya RB67. A mechanical beast from the 1970s that still takes great photos. There are many quirks in this system that make the camera hard to use, at first. But once you get use to this system, it is well worth the 'bother'. As others have mention buyer beware as there are cameras out there that break down or unusable. You can buy an RZ that works, for awhile but once it is broken; that is it, you cannot fix it. In addition, you need to fix on going problems like camera leaks and lens problems. But the results are worth it. This is not the only medium format camera you should consider, the 6x6 and other formats are worthwhile. Once bitten you will want more gear and a darkroom of your own.

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Thank you and I concur!

@andreaverdelli9823 4 года назад

Hi, thanks for the vid. It was helpful. Looking at the focusing scale on the right, I have a question: if I use a 90mm lens, it means that I only need to compensate 0.5 stops if I get any closer to 1m, and that's it? Never need to do +1, +1.5 or +2. Is it correct?

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

Partly correct. If you stay within the focus range on the scale and never focus closer than one meter, then yes, you never need to compensate further. However, if you keep racking out the focusing rack beyond where the line stops you would need to go by the compensations scale where it meets the camera body despite the line having ended and focus being closer than one meter.

@HuyNguyen-lu3zj 3 года назад

I think at 28:37 you mean to say that the shutter speed at 1/125 is "twice" as fast as at 1/60 (not half as fast). Twice as fast = half the light. Thanks for this very helpful video!

@DavidHancock 3 года назад

Thank you! You're correct. I goofed on that.

@retromograph3893 Год назад

Great vids, many thanks!

@DavidHancock Год назад

Thank you!

@dmytrochaika7570 2 года назад

Thank you, David!

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Thank you!

@bolleolympus 7 месяцев назад

✌✌👌👌👍👍😊😊❤❤

@bschoon12 4 года назад

Also, question: If I were to take a picture in a low lighting environment (ISO 400), should I lower the aperture/shutter speed?

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

Just make sure that all your settings are appropriate for a proper exposure. So I find that 400 ISO at f/5.6 for 1/60 in a typically lit interior room tends to be find, maybe a bit slower at night when no outside light is coming in through the shades. That's a rough guide.

@minkymott 4 года назад

Excellent video. I learned how to store my lenses. Had no idea.

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

Thank you!

@minkymott 4 года назад

@@DavidHancock I like your video, because it gets right to it. I don't have to sit through you telling me about your dog and what you ate that morning.

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

@@minkymott You're welcome. I have that stuff for the comments anyway. Steinbeck is a 42-pound German Shorthaired Pointer, all brown, who hates rabbits with a passion. For breakfast I made two eggs and had iced coffee because I didn't have time to brew hot coffee.

@TheWriterforhire 2 года назад

Great video! I was on the fence about a motor drive till I watched your excellent description of it! Thank you, I subscribed.

@DavidHancock 2 года назад

Thank you!

@ricedumplings3767 4 года назад

Nice video, thx! I have a question here: is it safe to change the shutter speed when it's cocked? (For example, my Rolleiflex can't set to 1/500 after cocked)

@DavidHancock 4 года назад

Thank you! Yes, you can change shutter speeds when the shutter is cocked on these. Or, I should say, I do.