Thanks! Louisiana Tractorworks & Projects I’ve considered even trying to start my own ISP by getting fiber trenched to my place to provide internet service wirelessly via towers , but believe there are too many trees here in East Texas. It wouldn’t make sense from what I can tell. I’ll probably start editing my videos at the house and using McDonald’s WiFi to upload periodically. Something like that. It’s the upload speed that are the killer here.
Do u know if any mini fridge freezer 2 door with auto defroster? Thats also not real expensive. Because I have looked everywhere and nothin all end up bein manual defrost
Hi my freezer is frost free so it melts the frost automatically I don’t want that because the my ice cream melts every time I want it continually freezing can you help me please?
Hi Andy, Joe here. I have a GE side by side that the ice maker is freezing up where the supply tube enters the trough. Last time I pulled the ice maker out the trough was frozen completely with a plug of ice the same shape as the trough. What causes this? By trough, I mean the cone shaped collector the tube from the supply enters. Model is TPN21PBMAA
Hey, often this will be caused by a small air leak from behind the fridge letting air in to the tube area. Maybe try putting some tape over that area temporarily on the back of the fridge and see if it helps. Another thing that comes to mind is a slow drip from a faulty water valve. It let's a small amount of water drip by full time and thus freezes. That's the 2 things that comes to mind.
GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos The water valve sounds like what is happening, but will make sure the area is seLed around the entry on the back. Thank again
Hi Andy I have a question I have side by side fridge and I have a problem with my compressor wont star I try to use 3 in 1 and only star when is connect straight to the wall but wont star when is connect to the board how I test my board to check if is working or not.
I had to open up and clean the cat fur off off my GE GSS25IFPH BB side by side RF condenser. All of the drum shaped condenser wire was completely covered in cat fur. I assume this fur was enough to block the air flow and cause the freezer and fridge to stay too warm and fail to auto defrost enough. When I removed the inside freezer panel, the ice build up was clearly blocking airflow completely! So I manually defrosted the unit with the aid of a small space heater set to low. Voila, the fridge is working again at temp! Hopefully the fur build up didn't ruin anything and I just have to keep after the fur! Your thoughts, Andy?
Hey Fred, Nice work! I don’t know that the fur build up would cause the ice build up like you’re seeing, but hopefully that’s the case and it’s problem solved. Usually the symptom will be too warm in the freezer / fridge (I.e. not able to form frost on the evaporator as efficiently) but doesn’t have anything to do with airflow inside the cabinet, but rather bleeds off heat collected from inside the freezer. Running the fridge long term in that condition definitely can damage components namely the compressor. It runs much hotter, has to work harder and needs to stay on longer to try and achieve temps which it may never get to...so then it runs nearly non stop at that point. You’ll probably be fine. In fact GE manual says these are designed to never need to be cleaned. :-/ says the people who sell you new fridges. LoL
@@GraceAppliance I'm trying to understand how all the components work together. So my question is.. if the condenser is clogged with buildup then would not the the whole unit be running warm and cause the compressor to run more than normal, thus auto defrost never turns on ? So then that would cause/gradually have/ the frost build up on the evap behind the inner freezer panel? So I guess the Q is why did the frost build up on the evap and block the air flow?
@@FredMunkachy the defrost will turn on after a period of time even if it doesn't need it. It's based on how long the compressor runs, time doors open, etc etc. But yes, after the frost forms on the evaporator it does restrict airflow inside the freezer and fridge and thus can't circulate the cold air any longer.
Hi Andy, I love your video's. I have a problem with a Hotpoint Side by Side Refrig/Freezer Model # HSM25GFRA SA, Defrost cycle. I have gone through 4 main PCB's and replaced 3 sensors, 1 heater element, and 1 Hi-Limit Thermostat and after about every 17-21 days the refrig temp is 60 degrees and the freezer is -10 degrees, and I have to manually defrost the evaporator with a hair dryer, then it's good again for another 21 days. I shorted out the Line and heater circuit and the heater glows red so I know that circuit is good and replaced all sensors. I am puzzled after watching all your video's, there is nothing left. I bought my recycled pcb's from a supplier who sells thousands of them for half price and 2 of them actually burnt up at the power transistors, and I got replacements from him and he mentioned to me that a condenser cooling fan that has stopped working would burn up a PCB, but my fan works great and doesn't bind at all. Any suggestions? Thanks Richy.
@@GraceAppliance I just sent it by my phone, that was 1 main pcb that had an obvious burnt spot, one of the other 4 pcb's just smelt burnt and had no clear spot where it overheated, it just would not turn on the Refrigerator or Freezer except for the door lights.
Thanks Anthony, I'm in the process of filling out the description links now. Thanks for letting me know. I've added an affiliate link to amazon there. Once you're at Amazon, if you purchase your needed part, you'll pay the same as you normally would, but it helps the channel because Amazon gives me a small kickback because you went through that link. Thanks a ton!
@@GraceAppliance the brand is Lec. I don't have the model number at the moment but the highest setting is 6. If I could someone get it to function to 3-4 that would be great instead of getting a repair guy.
@@GraceAppliance thanks. Ive heard there's a manual dial you can turn to turn the running of the fridge down like the thermostat dial not to have it running on the highest setting.
I need help my freezer is ice cold the act temp says it's 17 in freezer but it's not defrosting how to I manually defrost it ice snow build up back wall
Hi John, this video will show you how to narrow down which part has failed. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XeZfpB7ok90.html Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!
Hi Andy, Thank you very much for your channel and videos, they have been very useful when dealing with my side by side. I have a model GSH25JSTA SS seriel number RL233382 GE that doesnt restart after a power failure. The interior lights are on but no lights on the front panel and the motor / fan doesnt run. I recently replace the main board and the thermostat and it worked fine till the power failure. Do you have any idea what the problem could be?
Andre Jones hi, To me it sounds like it’s control Board related. But, you’ll need to determine if it’s the front touch panel or the main control board. If you connect the fridge to power with the front touch panel disconnected, and the fridge runs, that points toward a shorted touch panel and it would need to be replaced. If no change, it will likely be the main control board. Sometimes the relays will stick open or closed causing this symptom. One trick is to lightly tap on each of the black relays with a screwdriver while plugged in. This will sometimes free up a stuck relay and help in the diagnosis. Just be sure it not touch anything other than the plastic portion of the screwdriver during these tests and not to tap hard, but just a gentle tap. I would also check the temperature sensors to make sure they’re telling the main control that the fridge is too warm and it should be running. I have a video called testing and installing a defrost sensor which will help in these tests.
Hi Andy, The weirdest thing happened, after 8 days connected to the power the fridge started running again. I had no time to complete your recommendations it just started to run and cool all by itself. Perhaps the fridge just wasn’t emotionally ready to run.....
Andre Jones ha! It needed a safe space. I’m 99% sure this could only be caused by a failing relay in your main control board. But, with it functioning as it should now it will be tough to confirm this point. If it acts up again, try the relay tapping tip and see if you can get it to start up that way. If so, replace the main control board.
Great videos Andy!! I have a Q... Could a failed evap temp sensor keep the heater from coming on? I tried your jumper trick to put the heater in defrost with no luck.... Could a bad board keep the heater from coming on manually? Thanks!!!!! GSS22JEMD BB
Hey Benny, Thanks for the kind words. If you've got 120v to the far right pin on the light blue plug on your board (you should have 120vac between there and ground) this means the jumper should then send 120v to the defrost circuit. If you have a good heater and high limit thermostat, your heater should heat up once the jumper is on. A bad board would not cause this test to fail. If it's not heating up once jumped, I'd assume the board is ok and look closer at the defrost heater (the high limit thermostats very very rarely fail) You can also test the heater circuit with an Ohm test: If your heater circuit is in good shape, You should (with the fridge unplugged) get about 22.5 ohms resistance between the Orange wire to the right of that pin and the blue center wire on the light blue plug. If it fails the ohm test, you'd then need to get eye balls on the heater itself, disconnect both wires coming in to the heater and repeat the ohm test and you'll likely find that the heater has failed. I hope that makes sense. Let me know if you have any questions.
Your heater part number is: WR51X10101 It's the shorter of the 2 varieties that GE makes. They've updated this part which now includes a jumper wire that is used so that the wire can reach across the heater to connect up to the terminal. You'll see that your looks a little different than the replacement you receive. but, It will make sense once you go to install it.
Also, (sorry i missed your initial question) a failed evap temp sensor can and will keep the defrost heater from coming on, but it won't keep it from coming on when using the jumper wire method I show. It will simply keep the board from sending voltage to the heater when it's time to come on.
Thanks! Im waiting on a new multimeter to verify heater resistance. But it sounds like if thermostat and heater are okay, it should heat. What if temp sensor is disconnected? (Looks like it was replaced with wire nuts at some point) it should heat with jumper even if temp sensor is not connected? Thanks a ton!!! So helpful.
It’s pretty much true this season! LoL Luckily I have a friend who works for a large chicken processing plant and can get me 80lbs of chicken for $20! So, I don’t have to be a good hunter. Ha!
