Marc spotted this unclimbed line on the east face of Torre Egger in 2016, while rappelling from the route Titanic. He sent me phots of the supposed line and we talked about returning in the following years to try it together.
Marc passed away while climbing in Alaska in 2018, and at first I wondered if his vision for this line would slip away with him. I scrolled back to our conversations from 2016 and learned all that i could about the line, then asked Quentin Lindfield Roberts to try it with me.
In 2019 we succeeded in finding the way up the lower face, and managed to free the pitches at 12b. However, a backpack strap broke while hauling our bags, and my mountain boots fell off the mountain. Due to poor weather we couldn't return until the next season.
In 2020 we invited a friend Horacio Gratton to join us. We decided that a team of three was a safer decision incase anything went wrong. It was a very cold and wet season, so we had to adjust some of our plans. We climbed to the summit via our 2019 line up the lower face, and linked it into the upper line of Titanic to the top.
We named the route or Marc-Andres Vision.
27 сен 2024
